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#11
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Question on film
wrote
SHARPEST possible film ... no grain is good grain ? ... 120 TMax 100 in Xtol is probably the sharpest common combination if resolution is the criteria. TMax100 in Microdol is the least grain, but I doubt that in 120 it will make any difference. Ilford sells clones of the Kodak products. After that there are all the combinations that 'look sharp' to somebody: there seems to be no consensus regarding these films and developers. -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com Fstop timer - http://www.nolindan.com/da/fstop/index.htm |
#12
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Question on film
Nicholas O. Lindan wrote:
After that there are all the combinations that 'look sharp' to somebody: there seems to be no consensus regarding these films and developers. I myself love big gray areas filled with nice big salt-and-pepper grain. I like real texture (as opposed to the "fake texture" of grain) and sharp acutance at edges as well. But the number of people who show up in this newsgroup asking for how to get no grain seem to have me outnumbered. Sort of like when my kids start making wishes, and I wish for something I already have. They tell me that I can't do that. But I tell them that I've already got it and I'm happy! Tim. |
#13
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Question on film
I think, the consunsus is, isnt a lack of grain I am looking for but
rather the "sharp acutance" of wich you speak. I HATE on fast color film where it looks like its been shot through a sandstorm, I have som 30 reels of Europe that were shot in 800 when it first hit the makret, ugh....everyhting looks like its in a haze or sandstorm, like monet's... |
#14
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Question on film
THANK You !
"Acutance effefts are produced on the negative by using developers which tend to exagerate the contrast as sharp transitions between dark and light." Upon further thought and reflection between the charpness, a large portion of the look is the high contrast, On that note which of the above films has the highest contrast ? |
#15
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Question on film
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#16
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Question on film
wrote in message ups.com... I am beginning to agree, I was looking for a sharpness I associated with no grain, it does appear however it may be more of a contrast issue. So tho that end any suggestions on the fellows post above regarding "Acutance" ? I should also say Ive learned more in this forum in the last 24 hrs than I ever expected to for a washbin hack this is fun... The developer that probably is most often satisfactory for exagerated acutance effects is Agfa Rodinal but its availability is questionable now. A German company called Calbe makes a developer which is probably virtually identical with it. Otherwise, the two extra-fine-grain developers, Microdol-X and Ilford Perceptol, are good acutance developers when diluted one part stock to 3 parts water. Both Kodak and Ilford give developing times for most films at this dilution. The grain and speed are about the same as with D-76 but the edge effects are quite noticable. Rodinal, at high dilutions, was popular because it gave even stronger acutance effects along with a very sharp grain pattern. This is really a special effect and should be tried before you use it for anything important. As far as overall contrast: This is partly a matter of development time, the longer the development the greater the contrast. Some films are inherently more contrasty than others. For instance, the very slow, very fine grain, conventional emulsion films have a tendency to become excessively contrasty. Agfa's film is no longer made but EFKE evidently has a similar film. Typically, these have an ISO speed of around 25. You will have to experiment to find a combination that suits you but this should give you a place to start. -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#17
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Question on film
In article et,
"Richard Knoppow" writes: The developer that probably is most often satisfactory for exagerated acutance effects is Agfa Rodinal but its availability is questionable now. A German company called Calbe makes a developer which is probably virtually identical with it. Specifically, it's Calbe R09. Fomadon R09 is reportedly the same stuff. (I'm not sure if it's made in the same factory, but at the very least it's the same formula.) I've been seeing reports that A&O (the company that bought up Agfa's chemistry devision) Rodinal should be appearing on store shelves in the US within a few days. IIRC, Freestyle is saying they'll have it on 3/27/06. -- Rod Smith, http://www.rodsbooks.com Author of books on Linux, FreeBSD, and networking |
#19
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Question on film
One question not asked reading this far into the thread...
What size camera do you plan to use? (And what size camera did "Grandpa" use?) OK, I guess that's TWO questions. Some of the "best" grainless images I ever saw were shot on glass plates from a "Bicycle" camera (Quarter Plate? before my time!!). Some of the sharpest prints I ever saw were HUGE 4x6 foot enlargements from 4x5 Tech Pan negatives shot by Woody Walters in a Florida Swamp. -- darkroommike wrote in message oups.com... Last night surfing I found Efke 25 and Rollei 25 , any word on these ? the Efke is cheap. $3.00 a roll cheap..."supposedly" it is not a "modern" film and supposedly has a high silver content. And while I know there is much heated debate (on the net) about silver content old stly vs new stlye film etc etc. What I am looking for is pictures like my grandfather shot, he isnt around anymore to ask but his photos were absolutley amazing, the B&W was so crisp with no grain visible Another question on what you and another were saying about developing, I apologize for my ABSOLUTE ignornace when you say a 1:1 dilution , I mixed the developer with 1 gal of water as the instructions said , do I then mix say 1 pint of that solution with 1 pint of water again ? Do I want a slower/longer developing process or a quicker one to avoid the graininess ? Also is it better to do this in a Tray or Tank for clarity ? Many Thanks Chris Jean-David Beyer wrote: John wrote: On 20 Mar 2006 20:16:49 -0800, wrote: I also had a question on film, I am looking to do some B&W landscapes and close ups , I am looking for the SHARPEST possible film, I dont care if its touchy in developing or shooting, no grain is good grain ? I have read Agfa 25 fits the bill, but also have read Agfa is Kaput.... What else is there out there ? rollei 100 made by ? I have read that its shap, less of a "modern" film, but Im looking for something RAZOR, slow is fine....as sharp as possible is the requirmment... (Oh in 120) Thanks Chris You're asking for opinions so here's mine. TMX-100, EI 32, D-23 1:1, 12 min. 70F. I partly agree. If you use D-23, John is probably right, though I do not think D-23 is sharp enough, probably due to all that sulphite. For 4x5 and up it is probably acceptable. For 35mm, it may be too mushy for your taste. I think TMX (100) is the sharpest film for practical use in a hand-held camera. I prefer Xtol developer 1+1, and for that, an EI of 50 is perfectly good (the EI is affected somewhat by the developer used). I develop for the time Kodak recommend, using a diffusion enlarger. If you use a condenser enlarger, you will probably want to develop for a bit less time. -- .~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642. /V\ PGP-Key: 9A2FC99A Registered Machine 241939. /( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http://counter.li.org ^^-^^ 07:05:01 up 5 days, 8:16, 3 users, load average: 4.34, 4.21, 4.12 |
#20
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Question on film
On 21 Mar 2006 05:19:50 -0800, "cgrady" wrote:
It has been several years since I did much darkroom work, but the best film that I ever saw was Ilford Pan F (Now called Ilford Pan F Plus). It is available in 120 size from helixcamera.com for $2.99 per roll. I did a lot of film over the years, but Ilford Pan F was the only film I ever found that was "viritually" grainless. PanF + is certainly one of my favorite films. Possibly better than APX25. I just never used it much as it was only available in the smaller formats. == John S. Douglas Photographer & Webmaster www.legacy-photo,com www.xs750.net |
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