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Dust control



 
 
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  #21  
Old March 18th 06, 06:08 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dust control

On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 16:14:11 GMT, "Nicholas
O. Lindan" wrote:

a teaspoon of dishwashing detergent in a bucket of
water
and wipe the walls down and let them dry so there is fine film of detergent on
the wall -- this will keep the static electricity on the walls down.

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio



March 18, 2006, from Lloyd Erlick,

Just when I think I know everything!

This must be what they mean by the expression
'consulting engineer'...

regards,
--le
________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
voice: 416-686-0326
email:
net:
www.heylloyd.com
________________________________
--

  #22  
Old March 18th 06, 06:18 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dust control

On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 16:11:33 GMT, "Tom
Gardner" wrote:

I'll paint the cement floor with epoxy based paint.



March 18, 2006, from Lloyd Erlick,

Yet another area in which I've had
experience.

The epoxy coating will be tough and long
lasting, but when it begins to fail it will
be a mess.

For a cement floor, I'd suggest some sort of
sealer followed by a top-coat of floor wax.

The sealer should be some sort of water-based
glue-like substance. A good product for the
job, which I've used, is called WeldBond. It
looks like thick white glue, and it dilutes
with water.

To seal cement, dilute it quite thin and
runny and pour on the floor. Squeegee it all
over and make sure there are no puddles or
areas where the stuff is on the surface. Work
it in, let it soak in while you keep it
moving, let it dry and repeat as many times
as your l'il heart desires. After it's all
dry, use a good grade of floor wax a few
times until the surface of the floor is slick
and non-absorbent.

The wax is very easy to renew, and strips off
easily if necessary (should go years ...) In
areas of high stress, like in front of a
processing sink or anywhere water might drip
often (like under my print-drying area, where
I sluice distilled water down the prints
where they hang), it's easy to renew the
sealer before re-waxing. Nothing will flake
or peel or make any type of mess with this
method. It's also cheaper than epoxy (lots
cheaper) and does not entail breathing
anything weird when applying it.

regards,
--le
________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
voice: 416-686-0326
email:
net:
www.heylloyd.com
________________________________
--

  #23  
Old March 18th 06, 07:24 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dust control

On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 12:04:33 -0500, Lloyd Erlick Lloyd at @the-wire.
dot com wrote:


In my place I need a humidifier in the winter
and a dehumidifier in the summer. The readout
tells me what the situation is, and how to
set the machines as the outside temperature
changes.

regards,
--le
________________________________


Do you have an 'ideal' humidity level that you aim for?

Paul
  #24  
Old March 18th 06, 08:03 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dust control

In article ,
Lloyd Erlick Lloyd at @the-wire. dot com wrote:

On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 10:30:15 -0500, "Greg
\"Blank\" - Lizard King."
wrote:

As for
spiders who knows they creep me out.



March 18, 2006, from Lloyd Erlick,

They only do that becasue you should leave
them alone. They eat other insects.

For creepy, millipedes are hard to beat.
Spiders eat them before they run across your
face while you're asleep in bed ...

regards,
--le
________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
voice: 416-686-0326
email:
net:
www.heylloyd.com
________________________________


Let me go on public record saying I don't usually molest spiders,
if they willingly don't annoy me I let them be. On the other hand
I try to catch them and humanely place them outside. That way the
millipedes and centipedes get caught outside my house
--
The things we hate most in life often turn out to be a mirror image
of ourselves. Better not to hate.

Findmedirectly - "infoatgregblankphoto.com"
  #25  
Old March 18th 06, 08:08 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dust control

In article ,
Lloyd Erlick Lloyd at @the-wire. dot com wrote:

but anyone with a
roach or flea problem should be motivated
enough to do the research! I sure was ...


& to think you started from "Scratch" ;-D
--
The things we hate most in life often turn out to be a mirror image
of ourselves. Better not to hate.

Findmedirectly - "infoatgregblankphoto.com"
  #26  
Old March 18th 06, 08:28 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dust control

John spake thus:

On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 10:44:17 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

Tom Gardner spake thus:

It seems I am plagued with dust no matter what I do. When I built
the new darkroom, I caulked every drywall seam, floor and
ceiling joints, plumbing entrances and exits, filtered the air
intake, don't smoke in the room and I still have a huge dust and
spider problem. I can't figure how the critters get in yet alone
what they eat. This room is almost air tight! I'm considering an
ionic air thingy...thoughts?


Yes: give up. Embrace the dust. All attempts at resistance are futile.


Oh pooh ! Anyone can get rid of dust ! All you have to do is to run
your hot water line into a fire extinguisher/sprinkler and let it
bathe your darkroom in steaming hot water prior to your usage of said
room.


Hey, maybe you're onto something he the Really Wet Darkroom. In which
all dry materials (negatives, paper) are pre-loaded into waterproof
cassettes. The air continually sprayed with a fine mist of water. Dust
wouldn't stand a chance!


--
Second, Scientologists are like computers trying to run an emulation
of another computer. It can be done, but the performance is awful.
Scientologists are trying to run a bad copy of LRH.

- Keith Henson, from alt.religion.scientology
  #27  
Old March 19th 06, 05:36 AM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dust control


"Nicholas O. Lindan" wrote in message
link.net...
"Tom Gardner" wrote

I built a filter holder that uses a "High Efficiency" accordion style
element that is mounted on the ceiling/wall that has a booster duct fan
on
the 6" duct coming from the AC/furnace. There is a switch on this fan.
On
the floor, under the sink area is a vent that dumps into the other part
of
the basement. There is a standard fiberglass furnace filter on this.


Well, that _should_ keep dust down...

have positive pressure...kinda'. How about I block the air dump
partially
or fully and increase the positive pressure? I don't want to run the
booster fan continuously and rarely run it at all, only when it gets hot
in
there, no problem with it being too cold.


If you run the fan continuously, as an experiment, does this take care
of the dust problem? Does the darkroom ever get back-winded?

If the room is unoccupied does dust accumulate?

I would imagine the room 'breathes' through the exit filter and dust
trapped in the exit filter may then go back into the darkroom -- this
is pure speculation. But, what happens if the exit filter is blocked?

A good coating with gloss enamel helps, obviously. Do you get dust
sticking
to the walls? If so then a teaspoon of dishwashing detergent in a bucket
of
water
and wipe the walls down and let them dry so there is fine film of
detergent on
the wall -- this will keep the static electricity on the walls down.

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com
Fstop timer - http://www.nolindan.com/da/fstop/index.htm

Great Idea! I think I found the biggest culprit. The dryer in the other
part of the basement had the vent installed by HH Greg recently and they
didn't fasten the ductwork to the base of the dryer correctly and it spews
dryer exhaust into the basement under the dryer aimed right at the hallway
to the darkroom. I found by accident when I opened the darkroom door into
the well lighted hall I could see a cloud of dust get sucked into the
darkroom. I fixed the vent duct and am cleaning the rest of the basement.
I'd like to get to the point of not ever spotting prints...I'm dreaming
aren't I?


  #28  
Old March 19th 06, 05:38 AM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dust control


"Lloyd Erlick" Lloyd at @the-wire. dot com wrote in message
...
On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 16:11:33 GMT, "Tom
Gardner" wrote:

I'll paint the cement floor with epoxy based paint.



March 18, 2006, from Lloyd Erlick,

Yet another area in which I've had
experience.

The epoxy coating will be tough and long
lasting, but when it begins to fail it will
be a mess.

For a cement floor, I'd suggest some sort of
sealer followed by a top-coat of floor wax.

The sealer should be some sort of water-based
glue-like substance. A good product for the
job, which I've used, is called WeldBond. It
looks like thick white glue, and it dilutes
with water.

To seal cement, dilute it quite thin and
runny and pour on the floor. Squeegee it all
over and make sure there are no puddles or
areas where the stuff is on the surface. Work
it in, let it soak in while you keep it
moving, let it dry and repeat as many times
as your l'il heart desires. After it's all
dry, use a good grade of floor wax a few
times until the surface of the floor is slick
and non-absorbent.

The wax is very easy to renew, and strips off
easily if necessary (should go years ...) In
areas of high stress, like in front of a
processing sink or anywhere water might drip
often (like under my print-drying area, where
I sluice distilled water down the prints
where they hang), it's easy to renew the
sealer before re-waxing. Nothing will flake
or peel or make any type of mess with this
method. It's also cheaper than epoxy (lots
cheaper) and does not entail breathing
anything weird when applying it.

regards,
--le


Cool! Great point about epoxy paint, I forgot what a bitch it is.


  #29  
Old March 19th 06, 02:37 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dust control

Various:

I'll paint the cement floor with epoxy based paint.

sealer followed by a top-coat of floor wax.

Cool! Great point about epoxy paint, I forgot what a bitch it is.


When I had a basement darkroom I painted the floor with a thin-ish
latex paint sold just for concrete floors. I never had any problem
with paint flakes. The paint soon wore down from the peaks/sandgrains
in the cement but stayed in the 'valleys', the resulting surface was
semi-porous but smooth and cleanable.

IB if moisture from the cement [and basement cement always has
moisture] can't evaporate then it pools under the paint and spalls
the cement and a thin layer of cement attached to a flake of paint
comes loose. The people who had the house before me painted the
garage floor with epoxy. Lasted about 1/2 a winter. It is a
mess now and I think the only thing to do is to paint it with
epoxy again when I sell the house so it looks presentable.

Another very good coating for cement is Waterlox. You will need
lots of ventilation, though. Waterlox is a tung-oil varnish used
for gymnasium floors. My folks did the wood floor in their kitchen
with a coat of it and it is still good after 40+ years. Lots of
variations: the marine undercoat is a superb primer coat
over new/weathered/painted wood. Expensive. Toxic.

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com
Fstop timer - http://www.nolindan.com/da/fstop/index.htm
  #30  
Old March 19th 06, 04:33 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Dust control

In article . net,
"Nicholas O. Lindan" wrote:

Various:

I'll paint the cement floor with epoxy based paint.
sealer followed by a top-coat of floor wax.

Cool! Great point about epoxy paint, I forgot what a bitch it is.


When I had a basement darkroom I painted the floor with a thin-ish
latex paint sold just for concrete floors. I never had any problem
with paint flakes. The paint soon wore down from the peaks/sandgrains
in the cement but stayed in the 'valleys', the resulting surface was
semi-porous but smooth and cleanable.

IB if moisture from the cement [and basement cement always has
moisture] can't evaporate then it pools under the paint and spalls
the cement and a thin layer of cement attached to a flake of paint
comes loose. The people who had the house before me painted the
garage floor with epoxy. Lasted about 1/2 a winter. It is a
mess now and I think the only thing to do is to paint it with
epoxy again when I sell the house so it looks presentable.


You could do what what I did recently for the house I just bought,
they had stuck indoor carpet on the basement floor, which their cats
peed on, I ripped it out the day I took possession of the home.

I then spent about two months scraping and eventually using an angle
grinder on the floor to remove stuck on carpet backing. I painted the
the floor with latex floor paint, most places are ok, but a few spots
have come undone as a result of the problem you state....the sealer would
have been a good idea in those areas.

U. G .L is also probably an expensive permanent fix.


Another very good coating for cement is Waterlox. You will need
lots of ventilation, though. Waterlox is a tung-oil varnish used
for gymnasium floors. My folks did the wood floor in their kitchen
with a coat of it and it is still good after 40+ years. Lots of
variations: the marine undercoat is a superb primer coat
over new/weathered/painted wood. Expensive. Toxic.

--
The things we hate most in life often turn out to be a mirror image
of ourselves. Better not to hate.

Findmedirectly - "infoatgregblankphoto.com"
 




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