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#1
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kodak 125px underexposed (3 stops) while long-time-exposure
hello
yesterday, in a dark church, where i photographed some dark choir stalls, i underexposed a kodak 125px (3 stops). normally i push it to get good grey values, which is not so bad because i shooted a roll of 120-film (6x6). but when i made the photographs i exposed very long time so contrast will be enhanced a lot because of the effect of reciprocity. i exposed 45 sec instead of 200 sec. normally i develop in kodak hc 110 - b, n+0: 6,5 min. n+1: 9 min, n+2 12,5 min. what do you mean? should i take n+2, loose 2 stops, so that zone v falls down at iii, whith a contrast of 3 zones, enforced by this long-time-exposure? regards h.k. |
#2
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kodak 125px underexposed (3 stops) while long-time-exposure
"Hans Koana" wrote in message ... hello yesterday, in a dark church, where i photographed some dark choir stalls, i underexposed a kodak 125px (3 stops). normally i push it to get good grey values, which is not so bad because i shooted a roll of 120-film (6x6). but when i made the photographs i exposed very long time so contrast will be enhanced a lot because of the effect of reciprocity. i exposed 45 sec instead of 200 sec. normally i develop in kodak hc 110 - b, n+0: 6,5 min. n+1: 9 min, n+2 12,5 min. what do you mean? should i take n+2, loose 2 stops, so that zone v falls down at iii, whith a contrast of 3 zones, enforced by this long-time-exposure? regards h.k. First of all using a developer like Xtol, T-Max or T-Max RS, DDX, or Microphen will gain a bit of speed over HC-110, perhaps 3/4 stop. Increasing development time to "push" film just increases the contrast. Where the exposure is mostly on the toe, which has lower contrast than the rest of the film curve, the increase will make this low contrast image more easily printable but will result in very high contrast for anything which has received more exposure. Your exposure error is around two stops. If its based on the normal film speed you can probably pull out printable negatives but forget the zone system because the tone rendition will be a bit distorted by the reciprocity failure plus you are getting very near the limit of exposure which will register on the film. Again, I suggest using a different type of developer for this roll and trying to push a couple of stops. Plus-X responds fairly well to pushing. -- -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#3
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kodak 125px underexposed (3 stops) while long-time-exposure
Richard Knoppow schrieb:
First of all using a developer like Xtol, T-Max or T-Max RS, DDX, or Microphen will gain a bit of speed over HC-110, perhaps 3/4 stop. Increasing development time to "push" film just increases the contrast. Where the exposure is mostly on the toe, which has lower contrast than the rest of the film curve, the increase will make this low contrast image more easily printable but will result in very high contrast for anything which has received more exposure. Your exposure error is around two stops. If its based on the normal film speed you can probably pull out printable negatives but forget the zone system because the tone rendition will be a bit distorted by the reciprocity failure plus you are getting very near the limit of exposure which will register on the film. Again, I suggest using a different type of developer for this roll and trying to push a couple of stops. Plus-X responds fairly well to pushing. Thank you very much, i will try it soon. But I think I have got to revisit this little church in Romont / Switzerland again to take photographs of the choir. Thank you again. Regards H.K. |
#4
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kodak 125px underexposed (3 stops) while long-time-exposure
On 12/8/2008 7:24 AM Hans Koana spake thus:
yesterday, in a dark church, where i photographed some dark choir stalls, i underexposed a kodak 125px (3 stops). normally i push it to get good grey values, which is not so bad because i shooted a roll of That would be "I shot a roll" in English. 120-film (6x6). but when i made the photographs i exposed very long time so contrast will be enhanced a lot because of the effect of reciprocity. i exposed 45 sec instead of 200 sec. normally i develop in kodak hc 110 - b, n+0: 6,5 min. n+1: 9 min, n+2 12,5 min. what do you mean? should i take n+2, loose 2 stops, so that zone v falls down at iii, whith a contrast of 3 zones, enforced by this long-time-exposure? Seems to me that's all you *can* do; otherwise, you're going to completely lose whatever shadow detail you have, or get a low-contrast, difficult-to-print negative. -- Washing one's hands of the conflict between the powerful and the powerless means to side with the powerful, not to be neutral. - Paulo Freire |
#5
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kodak 125px underexposed (3 stops) while long-time-exposure
David Nebenzahl schrieb:
On 12/8/2008 7:24 AM Hans Koana spake thus: yesterday, in a dark church, where i photographed some dark choir stalls, i underexposed a kodak 125px (3 stops). normally i push it to get good grey values, which is not so bad because i shooted a roll of That would be "I shot a roll" in English. 120-film (6x6). but when i made the photographs i exposed very long time so contrast will be enhanced a lot because of the effect of reciprocity. i exposed 45 sec instead of 200 sec. normally i develop in kodak hc 110 - b, n+0: 6,5 min. n+1: 9 min, n+2 12,5 min. what do you mean? should i take n+2, loose 2 stops, so that zone v falls down at iii, whith a contrast of 3 zones, enforced by this long-time-exposure? Seems to me that's all you *can* do; otherwise, you're going to completely lose whatever shadow detail you have, or get a low-contrast, difficult-to-print negative. I do not know wether this development (N+2) would be wrong because the scene is very dark, with wooden figures that come out of the dark background. I Will try it again. Thank you. Regards H.K. |
#6
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kodak 125px underexposed (3 stops) while long-time-exposure
"Hans Koana" wrote in message ... David Nebenzahl schrieb: On 12/8/2008 7:24 AM Hans Koana spake thus: yesterday, in a dark church, where i photographed some dark choir stalls, i underexposed a kodak 125px (3 stops). normally i push it to get good grey values, which is not so bad because i shooted a roll of That would be "I shot a roll" in English. 120-film (6x6). but when i made the photographs i exposed very long time so contrast will be enhanced a lot because of the effect of reciprocity. i exposed 45 sec instead of 200 sec. normally i develop in kodak hc 110 - b, n+0: 6,5 min. n+1: 9 min, n+2 12,5 min. what do you mean? should i take n+2, loose 2 stops, so that zone v falls down at iii, whith a contrast of 3 zones, enforced by this long-time-exposure? Seems to me that's all you *can* do; otherwise, you're going to completely lose whatever shadow detail you have, or get a low-contrast, difficult-to-print negative. I do not know wether this development (N+2) would be wrong because the scene is very dark, with wooden figures that come out of the dark background. I Will try it again. Thank you. Regards H.K. If you are in fact able to try it again, I strongly suggest that you bracket. If your base exposure is 200 sec (over 3 minutes!), try in addition to 200 sec exposures of 400 sec and 800 sec. |
#7
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kodak 125px underexposed (3 stops) while long-time-exposure
Lawrence Akutagawa schrieb:
"Hans Koana" wrote in message ... David Nebenzahl schrieb: On 12/8/2008 7:24 AM Hans Koana spake thus: yesterday, in a dark church, where i photographed some dark choir stalls, i underexposed a kodak 125px (3 stops). normally i push it to get good grey values, which is not so bad because i shooted a roll of That would be "I shot a roll" in English. 120-film (6x6). but when i made the photographs i exposed very long time so contrast will be enhanced a lot because of the effect of reciprocity. i exposed 45 sec instead of 200 sec. normally i develop in kodak hc 110 - b, n+0: 6,5 min. n+1: 9 min, n+2 12,5 min. what do you mean? should i take n+2, loose 2 stops, so that zone v falls down at iii, whith a contrast of 3 zones, enforced by this long-time-exposure? Seems to me that's all you *can* do; otherwise, you're going to completely lose whatever shadow detail you have, or get a low-contrast, difficult-to-print negative. I do not know wether this development (N+2) would be wrong because the scene is very dark, with wooden figures that come out of the dark background. I Will try it again. Thank you. Regards H.K. If you are in fact able to try it again, I strongly suggest that you bracket. If your base exposure is 200 sec (over 3 minutes!), try in addition to 200 sec exposures of 400 sec and 800 sec. Hello, I have got to take the train from Bern to Romont (50km). The calculated exposure time as indicated on my Gossen Lunasix F is t=30sec (c.e.), f=11, ASA 125, with incident light metering. Following the instructions by Kodak, I need t=200sec (a.e.) as the adjusted exposure time. And I have got to adjust the development -30%, what means N-1, to avoid lighter zones that are too contrasty. But you're right: it is better to bracket than loosing an exposure. For this reason I will bracket and try an additional exposure time of t=60sec (c.e.) / t=550sec (a.e.) (one stop). This is nearly in the middle of your two suggestions. The contrast of the scene is not so wide (about 4 zones max.), and this is why 1/3 stop of under- or overexposure is not so difficult to manage. Regards H.K. |
#8
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kodak 125px underexposed (3 stops) while long-time-exposure
"Hans Koana" wrote in message ... Lawrence Akutagawa schrieb: "Hans Koana" wrote in message ... David Nebenzahl schrieb: On 12/8/2008 7:24 AM Hans Koana spake thus: yesterday, in a dark church, where i photographed some dark choir stalls, i underexposed a kodak 125px (3 stops). normally i push it to get good grey values, which is not so bad because i shooted a roll of That would be "I shot a roll" in English. 120-film (6x6). but when i made the photographs i exposed very long time so contrast will be enhanced a lot because of the effect of reciprocity. i exposed 45 sec instead of 200 sec. normally i develop in kodak hc 110 - b, n+0: 6,5 min. n+1: 9 min, n+2 12,5 min. what do you mean? should i take n+2, loose 2 stops, so that zone v falls down at iii, whith a contrast of 3 zones, enforced by this long-time-exposure? Seems to me that's all you *can* do; otherwise, you're going to completely lose whatever shadow detail you have, or get a low-contrast, difficult-to-print negative. I do not know wether this development (N+2) would be wrong because the scene is very dark, with wooden figures that come out of the dark background. I Will try it again. Thank you. Regards H.K. If you are in fact able to try it again, I strongly suggest that you bracket. If your base exposure is 200 sec (over 3 minutes!), try in addition to 200 sec exposures of 400 sec and 800 sec. Hello, I have got to take the train from Bern to Romont (50km). The calculated exposure time as indicated on my Gossen Lunasix F is t=30sec (c.e.), f=11, ASA 125, with incident light metering. Following the instructions by Kodak, I need t=200sec (a.e.) as the adjusted exposure time. And I have got to adjust the development -30%, what means N-1, to avoid lighter zones that are too contrasty. But you're right: it is better to bracket than loosing an exposure. For this reason I will bracket and try an additional exposure time of t=60sec (c.e.) / t=550sec (a.e.) (one stop). This is nearly in the middle of your two suggestions. The contrast of the scene is not so wide (about 4 zones max.), and this is why 1/3 stop of under- or overexposure is not so difficult to manage. For what it is worth, here's another idea - I surmise you are shooting 120 6x6. Bracket the first four exposures however you want. Place the lens cap back on the camera and shoot the next four frames. Take the lens cap off and bracket the last four exposures exactly as you did the first. In the darkroom, carefully remove the paper backing of the film and cut the film in half so you have four exposures in each half. Placing the second half in a light tight place, load the first half in the developing tank and develop as you see fit. Examine the developed and fixed first half. If you are satisfied, fine. If you are not, you then have a benchmark against which you can now develop the second half. |
#9
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kodak 125px underexposed (3 stops) while long-time-exposure
In article ,
Hans Koana wrote: I have got to take the train from Bern to Romont (50km). The calculated exposure time as indicated on my Gossen Lunasix F is t=30sec (c.e.), f=11, ASA 125, with incident light metering. Following the instructions by Kodak, I need t=200sec (a.e.) as the adjusted exposure time. And I have got to adjust the development -30%, what means N-1, to avoid lighter zones that are too contrasty. Don't use Plus-X! The reciprocity behavior of modern Kodak films is much, much better, which also means that less development adjustment will be required. -- Thor Lancelot Simon "Even experienced UNIX users occasionally enter rm *.* at the UNIX prompt only to realize too late that they have removed the wrong segment of the directory structure." - Microsoft WSS whitepaper |
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