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#21
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ISO 100 in good light, so no noise.
But I'm really talking about camera shake . The FZ IS does a great job. |
#22
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measekite wrote:
If the Canon S1 IS was either a 4 or a 5 MP would you have chosen that or still would have chosen the Z20? That would depend! The AA batteries, swivel finder, and CF card would be in its favour. The sensor size would need to increase, so the overall weight and bulk would increase. After that, picture quality would need to be as good as the FZ20. Finally, I'd need to try operating the camera with gloved hands. But it might win, yes! Not purely with a sensor change, though. Cheers, David |
#23
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Are there any sites where I can submit the photographs and get other peoples opinions on the quality? Maybe I'm too picky but I have taken some quite nice sharp pictures with the camera at shorter distances. But my primary interest is landscapes so I'm a bit disappointed. www.pbase.com will do Have you tried running it through NeatImage ? I've been playing with it for the last few days and on some pictures if does amzing things. |
#24
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Are there any sites where I can submit the photographs and get other peoples opinions on the quality? Maybe I'm too picky but I have taken some quite nice sharp pictures with the camera at shorter distances. But my primary interest is landscapes so I'm a bit disappointed. www.pbase.com will do Have you tried running it through NeatImage ? I've been playing with it for the last few days and on some pictures if does amzing things. |
#25
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Do you mean 30% linearly? That is, 30% horizontally and vertically? In
that case you are cutting scene from 3 Megapixels to about 300,000 pixels. I would expect it to be blurry. A 3MP camera gives SOME room for croppping but not a whole lot. About 70% of original (in each direction) is all. Remember, the linear cropping percentage must be SQUARED to figure how many pixels you are left with. Even if you are talking about cropping to 30% by area, you are down to 1 megapixel, which isn't all that great. !p^&c88%B! wrote: I'm pretty new to photography in general and have recently bought a Canon Powershot S1 IS (at the suggestion of people in this group, I should add). In general everything works well, although a bit slowly. I've installed the new firmware upgrade. However I am having one significant problem. Although the autofocus works well and the pictures are sharp if the subject is relatively close, when I shoot using the zoom at long distances, the pictures (particularly if I crop them) are blurry and lack detail. I'm using the full 3.2 mb setting and I am only cropping down to about 30 per cent of the original. So I think (maybe not?) there should be plenty of sharpness and detail left. I'm not sure whether it's the lens at big zoom settings (10X) or the focus at long distance is incorrect or could it be something else? I'm hoping someone can sort of point me in the right direction. Maybe others with Canon's can comment if they have similar problems. Thanks, Perry. |
#26
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!p^&c88%B! wrote:
I'm pretty new to photography in general and have recently bought a Canon Powershot S1 IS (at the suggestion of people in this group, I should add). In general everything works well, although a bit slowly. I've installed the new firmware upgrade. However I am having one significant problem. Although the autofocus works well and the pictures are sharp if the subject is relatively close, when I shoot using the zoom at long distances, the pictures (particularly if I crop them) are blurry and lack detail. I'm using the full 3.2 mb setting and I am only cropping down to about 30 per cent of the original. So I think (maybe not?) there should be plenty of sharpness and detail left. I'm not sure whether it's the lens at big zoom settings (10X) or the focus at long distance is incorrect or could it be something else? I'm hoping someone can sort of point me in the right direction. Maybe others with Canon's can comment if they have similar problems. Thanks, Perry. I've had one of these for two weeks now. I'm very happy with it. I did experiment with resolution quality between normal and full optical zoom and found that the only way to get equally sharp images was to use a tripod. I suggest turn off IS when using a tripod because the automatic IS can take several seconds to full stabilize, and even if your camera is perfectly still the image will be moving due to the IS lag. When not using a tripod I found the best way to reduce camera shake is the turn IS on and use the 2 sec timer. That way you can focus on holding the camera still when the image is captured. The main difference in image quality between full zoomed images is the purple fringe effect gets worse. |
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