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#21
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And again, the eternal question of lenses versus sensors
In article , Bill W
wrote: even the exif data can be faked. Is there a simple explanation/method for how to do this? DXO can't find the right lens info sometimes, I think mostly after I process something in other software. exif data are just tags in the file, which can be edited to whatever you want them to be or removed entirely. the best tool for the job is exiftool: http://www.sno.phy.queensu.ca/~phil/exiftool/ Right - I downloaded that months ago, but the instructions are longer than 10 words, so I never did get time for it. I was hoping for a much dumber version. I'll try again at some point. there are gui exif editors, most of which just wrap exiftool. |
#22
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And again, the eternal question of lenses versus sensors
On Tue, 26 May 2015 10:09:59 +1200, Me wrote:
On 26/05/2015 9:31 a.m., Bill W wrote: On Mon, 25 May 2015 16:45:54 -0400, nospam wrote: even the exif data can be faked. Is there a simple explanation/method for how to do this? DXO can't find the right lens info sometimes, I think mostly after I process something in other software. Even the "properties" dialog ("details" tab) in Windows Explorer will allow you to edit many exif fields, including adding lens model/maker etc. I didn't realize you could change anything in there, but now I see you can. Plus you can do it in groups. That might be the easiest thing to try first. There are plenty of other options, image editors which allow exif modification, and programs designed specifically to do this. |
#23
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And again, the eternal question of lenses versus sensors
On 26/05/2015 12:53 p.m., RichA wrote:
On Monday, 25 May 2015 10:37:47 UTC-4, Whiskers wrote: On 2015-05-24, RichA wrote: So, IF any good lens today (stopped down) can exceed the resolution of any current 35mm or smaller sensor (which seems to be the consensus amongst people), then why do we see sharpness and resolution differences between these lenses? For example, if a sensor provides a resolution of 8 (arbitrary number since various sites use different measures anyway) and lens 1 goes to 9 and lens 2 goes to 11, we shouldn't see a difference in resolution between the two lenses because both exceed the sensor, hitting a "sensor-ceiling" of resolution of 8, as it were. But that isn't how the measurements come out, as some lenses do resolve better on the same sensor. There is a lot more to lens (and sensor or film) performance than mere 'resolution'. Try telling a Leica fan that his favourite lens isn't as good as the Zeiss equivalent (or vice versa). Then mention Swarovski Optik and ask why they don't make camera lenses ... -- -- ^^^^^^^^^^ -- Whiskers -- ~~~~~~~~~~ but resolution is the main test of a lens. Are you sure about that - or is it perhaps just you skipping over the rest of the details in extensive reviews to look first at the single aspect of lens performance that you obsess over? |
#24
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And again, the eternal question of lenses versus sensors
On Mon, 25 May 2015 18:37:46 -0400, nospam
wrote: In article , Bill W wrote: The sort with arrows on the insulators to tell the electrons (or is it the data bits?) which way to go? the denon $500 ethernet cable had arrows: http://www.wired.com/2008/06/snake-oil-alert/all/1 We really, really, need this sort of thing, if only because it can make me *literally* lol. I wonder if anyone sells audiophile air for wifi connections. wonder no more. although not specifically for wifi connections, they affect the ambient air and reflections, so therefore it will likely improve wifi: http://www.lessloss.com/blackbody-p-200.html http://www.stereotimes.com/comm040510.shtml http://meniscusaudio.com/acoustosphere-p-972.html don't forget to get an audiophile power cable for your computer: http://www.piaudiogroup.com/MPC_Power_Cable.html http://www.nordost.com/leif/purple-flare/purple-flare-power-cord.php which would be wasted without an audiophile grade wall outlet: http://www.parts-express.com/wattgat...ex-receptacle- outlet--110-439 and cover it with an audiophile grade wall outlet cover (which can even be used for non-audio wall outlets). don't overtighten the screw though. http://machinadynamica.com/machina44.htm what they neglect to mention is that the cabling in the walls, out to the street and back to the power grid are nowhere near as good, so why would the 6 feet from the wall to the computer make any difference? also, be sure to demagnetize your vinyl records and audio cds. fortunately, someone makes a device that does both: http://www.soundstage.com/vinyl/vinyl200702.htm you know it's legitimate because it's been patented: http://www.google.com/patents/US6058078 lastly, be sure get a shatki stone, as it helps not just audio and video, but also cars: http://www.shakti-innovations.com/ Oh my God. I read a few of these, and my head is spinning. The one place isn't satisfied with selling scam cables, they actually have 3 quality levels, ranging up to $1600. I should post a photo of my music room - it would cost me 6 figures to wire up with these things. I had a guy come into the dealership where I worked, and ask for an emissions test. There are legal issues with this, so I had to ask the reason, and he told me that he had just installed something to improve fuel economy. I looked at the thing, and it was a 2" square sticker with what looked like a printed circuit on it that was stuck to the bottom of the gas tank. Imagine trying to keep a straight face with something like this. I'll give the guy some credit. As soon as I handed him the results, all he said was that the thing made no difference. But he apparently expected it to when he bought it. |
#25
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And again, the eternal question of lenses versus sensors
On 2015-05-25, nospam wrote:
In article , Bill W wrote: The sort with arrows on the insulators to tell the electrons (or is it the data bits?) which way to go? the denon $500 ethernet cable had arrows: http://www.wired.com/2008/06/snake-oil-alert/all/1 We really, really, need this sort of thing, if only because it can make me *literally* lol. I wonder if anyone sells audiophile air for wifi connections. wonder no more. although not specifically for wifi connections, they affect the ambient air and reflections, so therefore it will likely improve wifi: http://www.lessloss.com/blackbody-p-200.html http://www.stereotimes.com/comm040510.shtml http://meniscusaudio.com/acoustosphere-p-972.html don't forget to get an audiophile power cable for your computer: http://www.piaudiogroup.com/MPC_Power_Cable.html http://www.nordost.com/leif/purple-flare/purple-flare-power-cord.php which would be wasted without an audiophile grade wall outlet: http://www.parts-express.com/wattgat...ex-receptacle- outlet--110-439 and cover it with an audiophile grade wall outlet cover (which can even be used for non-audio wall outlets). don't overtighten the screw though. http://machinadynamica.com/machina44.htm what they neglect to mention is that the cabling in the walls, out to the street and back to the power grid are nowhere near as good, so why would the 6 feet from the wall to the computer make any difference? also, be sure to demagnetize your vinyl records and audio cds. fortunately, someone makes a device that does both: http://www.soundstage.com/vinyl/vinyl200702.htm you know it's legitimate because it's been patented: http://www.google.com/patents/US6058078 lastly, be sure get a shatki stone, as it helps not just audio and video, but also cars: http://www.shakti-innovations.com/ I've read that vinyl records are played at their best if the record deck is stood on a heavy glass table-top insulated from both the floor and the record deck by specially shaped rubber blocks. Would my MP3 player benefit from an installation like that? -- -- ^^^^^^^^^^ -- Whiskers -- ~~~~~~~~~~ |
#26
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And again, the eternal question of lenses versus sensors
On 26 May 2015 12:55:31 GMT, Whiskers
wrote: On 2015-05-25, nospam wrote: In article , Bill W wrote: The sort with arrows on the insulators to tell the electrons (or is it the data bits?) which way to go? the denon $500 ethernet cable had arrows: http://www.wired.com/2008/06/snake-oil-alert/all/1 We really, really, need this sort of thing, if only because it can make me *literally* lol. I wonder if anyone sells audiophile air for wifi connections. wonder no more. although not specifically for wifi connections, they affect the ambient air and reflections, so therefore it will likely improve wifi: http://www.lessloss.com/blackbody-p-200.html http://www.stereotimes.com/comm040510.shtml http://meniscusaudio.com/acoustosphere-p-972.html don't forget to get an audiophile power cable for your computer: http://www.piaudiogroup.com/MPC_Power_Cable.html http://www.nordost.com/leif/purple-flare/purple-flare-power-cord.php which would be wasted without an audiophile grade wall outlet: http://www.parts-express.com/wattgat...ex-receptacle- outlet--110-439 and cover it with an audiophile grade wall outlet cover (which can even be used for non-audio wall outlets). don't overtighten the screw though. http://machinadynamica.com/machina44.htm what they neglect to mention is that the cabling in the walls, out to the street and back to the power grid are nowhere near as good, so why would the 6 feet from the wall to the computer make any difference? also, be sure to demagnetize your vinyl records and audio cds. fortunately, someone makes a device that does both: http://www.soundstage.com/vinyl/vinyl200702.htm you know it's legitimate because it's been patented: http://www.google.com/patents/US6058078 lastly, be sure get a shatki stone, as it helps not just audio and video, but also cars: http://www.shakti-innovations.com/ I've read that vinyl records are played at their best if the record deck is stood on a heavy glass table-top insulated from both the floor and the record deck by specially shaped rubber blocks. Would my MP3 player benefit from an installation like that? Actually, the turntable isolation is valid. It's analog, and very sensitive. Of course, even that has limits. Putting the turntable directly on top of the subwoofer is bad. Most other locations are not. |
#27
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And again, the eternal question of lenses versus sensors
In article ,
Whisky-dave wrote: don't forget to get an audiophile power cable for your computer: Just flicked through the above and I'm now convinced I need "highly polished mating surfaces" ;-) How about this audio USB cable http://www.russandrews.com/product.a...=GBP&pf_id= 2 436 it's not made in the USA but "Handcrafted in the USA" that's gotta make a difference init the sad thing is that there are morons who believe that there's a difference. |
#28
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And again, the eternal question of lenses versus sensors
In article ,
Whiskers wrote: I've read that vinyl records are played at their best if the record deck is stood on a heavy glass table-top insulated from both the floor and the record deck by specially shaped rubber blocks. there's some truth to that, as vibrations from the music can affect the sound. the obvious case is at a party where dancing causes the record to actually skip, but even just heavy bass at sufficient volume could have an effect (although very minor). it's also not that hard to avoid. put the turntable on cinderblocks and/or put it in a different room than where the loud music will be played. don't put it near the speakers. nevertheless, there are insanely priced and very heavy turntables for those with a lot more money than brains. one is $300k but several are $150k. http://www.bornrich.com/top-10-most-expensive-turntables.html Would my MP3 player benefit from an installation like that? no. there are also high def audio players (e.g., pono) but it's not possible for humans to hear a difference. |
#29
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And again, the eternal question of lenses versus sensors
On 2015-05-26, nospam wrote:
In article , Whiskers wrote: I've read that vinyl records are played at their best if the record deck is stood on a heavy glass table-top insulated from both the floor and the record deck by specially shaped rubber blocks. there's some truth to that, as vibrations from the music can affect the sound. the obvious case is at a party where dancing causes the record to actually skip, but even just heavy bass at sufficient volume could have an effect (although very minor). Perhaps I'm just an eccentric recluse, but I don't associate words such as 'party' 'dancing' or 'heavy base', with either 'listening' or 'hifi'. it's also not that hard to avoid. put the turntable on cinderblocks and/or put it in a different room than where the loud music will be played. don't put it near the speakers. I'd probably be more comfortable in that different room too - if not a different building. nevertheless, there are insanely priced and very heavy turntables for those with a lot more money than brains. one is $300k but several are $150k. http://www.bornrich.com/top-10-most-expensive-turntables.html Would my MP3 player benefit from an installation like that? no. there are also high def audio players (e.g., pono) but it's not possible for humans to hear a difference. I have a strange liking for live music; no recording can ever replicate that. However, there is always room for improvement in the recording techniques, mixing, filtering, digitising, compressing, decompressing, and converting back to analogue. Pono may not be "it" but if no-one tries we'll never know just how much better than "CD quality" it's possible to get or worth trying. -- -- ^^^^^^^^^^ -- Whiskers -- ~~~~~~~~~~ |
#30
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And again, the eternal question of lenses versus sensors
On 27/05/2015 6:29 a.m., Whiskers wrote:
On 2015-05-26, nospam wrote: In article , Whiskers wrote: I've read that vinyl records are played at their best if the record deck is stood on a heavy glass table-top insulated from both the floor and the record deck by specially shaped rubber blocks. there's some truth to that, as vibrations from the music can affect the sound. the obvious case is at a party where dancing causes the record to actually skip, but even just heavy bass at sufficient volume could have an effect (although very minor). Perhaps I'm just an eccentric recluse, but I don't associate words such as 'party' 'dancing' or 'heavy base', with either 'listening' or 'hifi'. You sound a bit like an eccentric recluse - but more likely just old and conservative. Music and dance are inextricably linked in the roots of human cultural development - in basically every culture. Heavy base sic is nearly ubiquitous - it probably started with rhythmic beating of a hollow tree trunk etc. There's nothing "culturally superior" about listening to some particular genre of music while glued to your lounge furniture, and there's certainly nothing wrong with turning the music up and dancing. Ask a young person. Just because you might have become old of body, doesn't mean you have to become old of heart. it's also not that hard to avoid. put the turntable on cinderblocks and/or put it in a different room than where the loud music will be played. don't put it near the speakers. I'd probably be more comfortable in that different room too - if not a different building. nevertheless, there are insanely priced and very heavy turntables for those with a lot more money than brains. one is $300k but several are $150k. http://www.bornrich.com/top-10-most-expensive-turntables.html Would my MP3 player benefit from an installation like that? no. there are also high def audio players (e.g., pono) but it's not possible for humans to hear a difference. I have a strange liking for live music; no recording can ever replicate that. However, there is always room for improvement in the recording techniques, mixing, filtering, digitising, compressing, decompressing, and converting back to analogue. Pono may not be "it" but if no-one tries we'll never know just how much better than "CD quality" it's possible to get or worth trying. Most people don't even know how good CD can sound. |
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