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#1
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Your thoughts on cell interior cleaning
This is something that doesn't frighten me technically speaking.
But I find it generally prudent to ask about matters that will cost more than $20 to experiment with. I found an old Fujinon WS 210/5.6. The single-coated version. Inside the front cell, in the air space, is some fogging on the glass. Inside the rear cell, in the air space, is some edge fogging. (The only thing that makes me hesitant about taking this on is the presence of some cleaning marks on the rear cell.) So I checked Kerry Thalmann's online Fuji brochures to verify (and it proved true) the open air space within each cell. While opening the cells won't be a real issue, my concern in cleaning methods. What would be an appropriate approach to cleaning fog off cells and subsequently keeping the interior appropriately clean? My first thought is standard lens cleaning fluid. Just keep it wet to avoid marking it. But this may or may not be adequate. Has anyone done this, or are you all too scared? Or should I see about getting a better bargain and try to get the cells cheaply enough to justify the experiment? Your thoughts? TIA, Collin (the bargain hound) Brendemuehl |
#3
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Your thoughts on cell interior cleaning
"Collin Brendemuehl" wrote in message om... This is something that doesn't frighten me technically speaking. But I find it generally prudent to ask about matters that will cost more than $20 to experiment with. I found an old Fujinon WS 210/5.6. The single-coated version. Inside the front cell, in the air space, is some fogging on the glass. Inside the rear cell, in the air space, is some edge fogging. (The only thing that makes me hesitant about taking this on is the presence of some cleaning marks on the rear cell.) So I checked Kerry Thalmann's online Fuji brochures to verify (and it proved true) the open air space within each cell. While opening the cells won't be a real issue, my concern in cleaning methods. What would be an appropriate approach to cleaning fog off cells and subsequently keeping the interior appropriately clean? My first thought is standard lens cleaning fluid. Just keep it wet to avoid marking it. But this may or may not be adequate. Has anyone done this, or are you all too scared? Or should I see about getting a better bargain and try to get the cells cheaply enough to justify the experiment? Your thoughts? TIA, Collin (the bargain hound) Brendemuehl Clean them just as you would outside surfaces. Lens cleaning fluid or 99% Isopropyl alcohol are fine. Use lens tissues or Kimwipes and use each once only. Blow out the cell after cleaning it and before putting the lens back. If a lens doesn't come out easily try lifting it out with a piece of scotch tape. If the surface is clean that won't hurt it. Becareful to note any shims and get them back properly. Few old lenses had shims but some modern ones do. If the cells have threaded back caps they are very easy to open. Most lenses without back caps have threaded front retaining rings. The best way to remove these is with a friction tool made of a soft rubber ring cemented to a tube the right diameter. Be careful replacing the lens. The clearances are very small and you don't want to chip the lens by forcing it. It must displace some air going in so will move slowly. I don't know for certain what causes the haze in lenses but think its probably some residual volitile material from the anti-refection paint on the inside of the cell. Some makes of lenses seem more prone to develop it than others. Schneider and Kodak lenses seem to have haze frequently. Some very old lenses may even seem to have soot inside. I've found this stuff also cleans right off with lens cleaning fluid and leaves the lenses sparkling clean. Even a small amount of internal haze will destroy the contrast of a lens. I think one reason that uncoated lenses have a reputation for being very flary is due to interenal haze and dirt. They really are not that bad. -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#4
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Your thoughts on cell interior cleaning
"Richard Knoppow" wrote in message link.net...
"Collin Brendemuehl" wrote in message om... This is something that doesn't frighten me technically speaking. But I find it generally prudent to ask about matters that will cost more than $20 to experiment with. I found an old Fujinon WS 210/5.6. The single-coated version. Inside the front cell, in the air space, is some fogging on the glass. Inside the rear cell, in the air space, is some edge fogging. (The only thing that makes me hesitant about taking this on is the presence of some cleaning marks on the rear cell.) So I checked Kerry Thalmann's online Fuji brochures to verify (and it proved true) the open air space within each cell. While opening the cells won't be a real issue, my concern in cleaning methods. What would be an appropriate approach to cleaning fog off cells and subsequently keeping the interior appropriately clean? My first thought is standard lens cleaning fluid. Just keep it wet to avoid marking it. But this may or may not be adequate. Has anyone done this, or are you all too scared? Or should I see about getting a better bargain and try to get the cells cheaply enough to justify the experiment? Your thoughts? TIA, Collin (the bargain hound) Brendemuehl Clean them just as you would outside surfaces. Lens cleaning fluid or 99% Isopropyl alcohol are fine. Use lens tissues or Kimwipes and use each once only. Blow out the cell after cleaning it and before putting the lens back. If a lens doesn't come out easily try lifting it out with a piece of scotch tape. If the surface is clean that won't hurt it. Becareful to note any shims and get them back properly. Few old lenses had shims but some modern ones do. If the cells have threaded back caps they are very easy to open. Most lenses without back caps have threaded front retaining rings. The best way to remove these is with a friction tool made of a soft rubber ring cemented to a tube the right diameter. Be careful replacing the lens. The clearances are very small and you don't want to chip the lens by forcing it. It must displace some air going in so will move slowly. I don't know for certain what causes the haze in lenses but think its probably some residual volitile material from the anti-refection paint on the inside of the cell. Some makes of lenses seem more prone to develop it than others. Schneider and Kodak lenses seem to have haze frequently. Some very old lenses may even seem to have soot inside. I've found this stuff also cleans right off with lens cleaning fluid and leaves the lenses sparkling clean. Even a small amount of internal haze will destroy the contrast of a lens. I think one reason that uncoated lenses have a reputation for being very flary is due to interenal haze and dirt. They really are not that bad. Richard, Thanks for your thoughts. I was mostly concerned about touching the interior surfaces at all. I don't know if there's any interior coatings on the old Fujinon W 210/5.6. If so, then I'm not too worried about marks, but would take obvious care to prevent them anyway. If not, then the possibility of any marks would be very important and leaving any marks would be a big negative. Do you know if the interior surfaces of a Fujinon W are coated at all? Collin |
#5
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Your thoughts on cell interior cleaning
"Collin Brendemuehl" wrote in message om... "Richard Knoppow" wrote in message link.net... "Collin Brendemuehl" wrote in message om... This is something that doesn't frighten me technically speaking. But I find it generally prudent to ask about matters that will cost more than $20 to experiment with. I found an old Fujinon WS 210/5.6. The single-coated version. Inside the front cell, in the air space, is some fogging on the glass. Inside the rear cell, in the air space, is some edge fogging. (The only thing that makes me hesitant about taking this on is the presence of some cleaning marks on the rear cell.) So I checked Kerry Thalmann's online Fuji brochures to verify (and it proved true) the open air space within each cell. While opening the cells won't be a real issue, my concern in cleaning methods. What would be an appropriate approach to cleaning fog off cells and subsequently keeping the interior appropriately clean? My first thought is standard lens cleaning fluid. Just keep it wet to avoid marking it. But this may or may not be adequate. Has anyone done this, or are you all too scared? Or should I see about getting a better bargain and try to get the cells cheaply enough to justify the experiment? Your thoughts? TIA, Collin (the bargain hound) Brendemuehl Clean them just as you would outside surfaces. Lens cleaning fluid or 99% Isopropyl alcohol are fine. Use lens tissues or Kimwipes and use each once only. Blow out the cell after cleaning it and before putting the lens back. If a lens doesn't come out easily try lifting it out with a piece of scotch tape. If the surface is clean that won't hurt it. Becareful to note any shims and get them back properly. Few old lenses had shims but some modern ones do. If the cells have threaded back caps they are very easy to open. Most lenses without back caps have threaded front retaining rings. The best way to remove these is with a friction tool made of a soft rubber ring cemented to a tube the right diameter. Be careful replacing the lens. The clearances are very small and you don't want to chip the lens by forcing it. It must displace some air going in so will move slowly. I don't know for certain what causes the haze in lenses but think its probably some residual volitile material from the anti-refection paint on the inside of the cell. Some makes of lenses seem more prone to develop it than others. Schneider and Kodak lenses seem to have haze frequently. Some very old lenses may even seem to have soot inside. I've found this stuff also cleans right off with lens cleaning fluid and leaves the lenses sparkling clean. Even a small amount of internal haze will destroy the contrast of a lens. I think one reason that uncoated lenses have a reputation for being very flary is due to interenal haze and dirt. They really are not that bad. Richard, Thanks for your thoughts. I was mostly concerned about touching the interior surfaces at all. I don't know if there's any interior coatings on the old Fujinon W 210/5.6. If so, then I'm not too worried about marks, but would take obvious care to prevent them anyway. If not, then the possibility of any marks would be very important and leaving any marks would be a big negative. Do you know if the interior surfaces of a Fujinon W are coated at all? Collin I think all Fujinon lenses are hard coated. The only non-experimental soft coated lenses I know of were some of Kodak's Ektar series made in the early 1940's These include the Eastman Ektar series (predecessor to the Commerical Ektar), the lens for the Medalist camera, the lenses for the Ektra 35mm camera, and for a couple of other deluxe lenses. After about 1946 all lenses were coated using vacuum deposition technique forming hard coatings. hard coatings are often more easily scratched than the glass they are on but can not be wiped off. In fact removing them is something of a problem. I would use great care on internal surfaces, but then I recommend that for external surfaces also. So called cleaning marks come from abrasive on the cleaner. I recommend not using anything re-usable on a lens: not brushes or microfiber cloth or anything else which gets used twice. Use good quality lens tissue or Kimwipes. For brushing use lens tissue. Roll it into a tube, tear the tube in half and fold the feathered ends together. Use that ONCE and toss it. Don't use the inside of your tie or pocket handkerchief or any of many similar things I've seen used. Scratches DO count. One will not ruin a lens but the sort of marks that look like a lens has been cleaned with a Brillo pad destroy both contrast and sharpness. -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
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