What densities at which zones?

That was the main reason of my first post to the newsgroup. I do not have
the book and was looking for the information (scan or table), which you
say
are on the page #109. I am looking for the densities, which are shown
there.


I provided the densities from Woods' book to you in a message two days ago.


"~BitPump" wrote in message
...
Dear Jorge,

Thank you for your comments, which are extremaly valuable for me.
Could you please explain the following (English is not my native language,
as you have surely noticed):

Ok, whatever you do, stay away from the Picker testing method. It has
What is Picker method? I have never heard of.

OTOH if you are using a densitometer, I would recommend you do your
What does "OTOH" mean? (Is it "Otherwise?")

tests according the the BTZS method, it is far more reliable than the
What do you mean by "BTZS"? (ZS stands for Zone System surely, but BT ?).

If you insist on using on using John Charles Woods method, on page 109
you have a set of densities that you can use as a guideline. For
That was the main reason of my first post to the newsgroup. I do not have
the book and was looking for the information (scan or table), which you
say
are on the page #109. I am looking for the densities, which are shown
there.

With best regards,

Andrzej Bacinski

A geez Andrzej, I guess it does need a little bit of translating. Ok,
Fred Picker was a guy who deviced a "testing" method where you expose
negatives, you print until the rebate of the film (the transparent
part) prints just blacker than a shot exposed to zone I. This
determines your "standard printing time." You then expose another
piece of film for zone VIII, develop it according to manufacturer's
instructions and you print it using the "standard printing time" you
obtained in the previous test. If you dont see any detail, you
overdeveloped, if the image is too gray, you underdeveloped. As I
said, at first it sounds reasonable, but this test has many flaws that
give erroneous results to those who are not experienced.

OTOH= On the other hand

Here are the densities just for you:

I 0.1
II 0.24
III 0.35
IV 0.55
V 0.75
VI 0.90
VII 1.10
VIII 1.35
IX 1.55
X 1.75
XI 1.85
XII 1.92
XIII 1.95

Hope this helps.




"~BitPump" wrote in message ...
Dear Jorge,

Thank you for your comments, which are extremaly valuable for me.
Could you please explain the following (English is not my native language,
as you have surely noticed):

Ok, whatever you do, stay away from the Picker testing method. It has
What is Picker method? I have never heard of.

OTOH if you are using a densitometer, I would recommend you do your
What does "OTOH" mean? (Is it "Otherwise?")

tests according the the BTZS method, it is far more reliable than the
What do you mean by "BTZS"? (ZS stands for Zone System surely, but BT ?).

If you insist on using on using John Charles Woods method, on page 109
you have a set of densities that you can use as a guideline. For
That was the main reason of my first post to the newsgroup. I do not have
the book and was looking for the information (scan or table), which you say
are on the page #109. I am looking for the densities, which are shown there.

With


best regards,

Andrzej Bacinski

A geez Andrzej, I guess it does need a little bit of translating. Ok,
Fred Picker was a guy who deviced a "testing" method where you expose
negatives, you print until the rebate of the film (the transparent
part) prints just blacker than a shot exposed to zone I. This
determines your "standard printing time." You then expose another
piece of film for zone VIII, develop it according to manufacturer's
instructions and you print it using the "standard printing time" you
obtained in the previous test. If you dont see any detail, you
overdeveloped, if the image is too gray, you underdeveloped. As I
said, at first it sounds reasonable, but this test has many flaws that
give erroneous results to those who are not experienced.

OTOH= On the other hand

Here are the densities just for you:

I 0.1
II 0.24
III 0.35
IV 0.55
V 0.75
VI 0.90
VII 1.10
VIII 1.35
IX 1.55
X 1.75
XI 1.85
XII 1.92
XIII 1.95

Hope this helps.




"~BitPump" wrote in message ...
Dear Jorge,

Thank you for your comments, which are extremaly valuable for me.
Could you please explain the following (English is not my native language,
as you have surely noticed):

Ok, whatever you do, stay away from the Picker testing method. It has
What is Picker method? I have never heard of.

OTOH if you are using a densitometer, I would recommend you do your
What does "OTOH" mean? (Is it "Otherwise?")

tests according the the BTZS method, it is far more reliable than the
What do you mean by "BTZS"? (ZS stands for Zone System surely, but BT ?).

If you insist on using on using John Charles Woods method, on page 109
you have a set of densities that you can use as a guideline. For
That was the main reason of my first post to the newsgroup. I do not have
the book and was looking for the information (scan or table), which you say
are on the page #109. I am looking for the densities, which are shown there.

With


best regards,

Andrzej Bacinski

Here are the densities just for you:

I 0.1
II 0.24
III 0.35
IV 0.55
V 0.75
VI 0.90
VII 1.10
VIII 1.35
IX 1.55
X 1.75
XI 1.85
XII 1.92
XIII 1.95

You might want to make it clear that these actually aren't the densities,
they're the densities over and above film base plus fog. Thus the Zone I
density, for example, isn't 0.10, it's .10 above whatever the film base
plus fog (Zone 0) reading is, the Zone II density isn't 0.24, it's 0.24
above film base plus fog, etc. etc.

"Jorge Gasteazoro" wrote in message
...
A geez Andrzej, I guess it does need a little bit of translating. Ok,
Fred Picker was a guy who deviced a "testing" method where you expose
negatives, you print until the rebate of the film (the transparent
part) prints just blacker than a shot exposed to zone I. This
determines your "standard printing time." You then expose another
piece of film for zone VIII, develop it according to manufacturer's
instructions and you print it using the "standard printing time" you
obtained in the previous test. If you dont see any detail, you
overdeveloped, if the image is too gray, you underdeveloped. As I
said, at first it sounds reasonable, but this test has many flaws that
give erroneous results to those who are not experienced.

OTOH= On the other hand

Here are the densities just for you:

I 0.1
II 0.24
III 0.35
IV 0.55
V 0.75
VI 0.90
VII 1.10
VIII 1.35
IX 1.55
X 1.75
XI 1.85
XII 1.92
XIII 1.95

Hope this helps.




"~BitPump" wrote in message
...
Dear Jorge,

Thank you for your comments, which are extremaly valuable for me.
Could you please explain the following (English is not my native
language,
as you have surely noticed):

Ok, whatever you do, stay away from the Picker testing method. It has
What is Picker method? I have never heard of.

OTOH if you are using a densitometer, I would recommend you do your
What does "OTOH" mean? (Is it "Otherwise?")

tests according the the BTZS method, it is far more reliable than the
What do you mean by "BTZS"? (ZS stands for Zone System surely, but BT
?).

If you insist on using on using John Charles Woods method, on page 109
you have a set of densities that you can use as a guideline. For
That was the main reason of my first post to the newsgroup. I do not
have
the book and was looking for the information (scan or table), which you
say
are on the page #109. I am looking for the densities, which are shown
there.

With


best regards,

Andrzej Bacinski

Here are the densities just for you:

I 0.1
II 0.24
III 0.35
IV 0.55
V 0.75
VI 0.90
VII 1.10
VIII 1.35
IX 1.55
X 1.75
XI 1.85
XII 1.92
XIII 1.95

You might want to make it clear that these actually aren't the densities,
they're the densities over and above film base plus fog. Thus the Zone I
density, for example, isn't 0.10, it's .10 above whatever the film base
plus fog (Zone 0) reading is, the Zone II density isn't 0.24, it's 0.24
above film base plus fog, etc. etc.

"Jorge Gasteazoro" wrote in message
...
A geez Andrzej, I guess it does need a little bit of translating. Ok,
Fred Picker was a guy who deviced a "testing" method where you expose
negatives, you print until the rebate of the film (the transparent
part) prints just blacker than a shot exposed to zone I. This
determines your "standard printing time." You then expose another
piece of film for zone VIII, develop it according to manufacturer's
instructions and you print it using the "standard printing time" you
obtained in the previous test. If you dont see any detail, you
overdeveloped, if the image is too gray, you underdeveloped. As I
said, at first it sounds reasonable, but this test has many flaws that
give erroneous results to those who are not experienced.

OTOH= On the other hand

Here are the densities just for you:

I 0.1
II 0.24
III 0.35
IV 0.55
V 0.75
VI 0.90
VII 1.10
VIII 1.35
IX 1.55
X 1.75
XI 1.85
XII 1.92
XIII 1.95

Hope this helps.




"~BitPump" wrote in message
...
Dear Jorge,

Thank you for your comments, which are extremaly valuable for me.
Could you please explain the following (English is not my native
language,
as you have surely noticed):

Ok, whatever you do, stay away from the Picker testing method. It has
What is Picker method? I have never heard of.

OTOH if you are using a densitometer, I would recommend you do your
What does "OTOH" mean? (Is it "Otherwise?")

tests according the the BTZS method, it is far more reliable than the
What do you mean by "BTZS"? (ZS stands for Zone System surely, but BT
?).

If you insist on using on using John Charles Woods method, on page 109
you have a set of densities that you can use as a guideline. For
That was the main reason of my first post to the newsgroup. I do not
have
the book and was looking for the information (scan or table), which you
say
are on the page #109. I am looking for the densities, which are shown
there.

With


best regards,

Andrzej Bacinski