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Blue dye antihalation in 400TX?
Help! I've been using TriX for the best part of 50 years, and tonight developed my first roll of 120 400TX. I've always used a pre-soak before the developer, but never before have I seen a rich blue liquid come out of the tank when emptying it. Is there a water soluble blue dye on the film now that was NEVER used before? I rinsed the film 4-5 times, and the blue solution became more and more dilute. Proceeding with the development routine, nothing else unusual occurred--except maybe the film-base fog seemed a bit heavier than usual. Is this new film truly a radical and surprising deviation from the past versions of Tri X? Thanks for your help.
R.W. Behan |
#2
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"R.W. Behan" wrote: Help! I've been using TriX for the best part of 50 years, and tonight developed my first roll of 120 400TX. I've always used a pre-soak before the developer, but never before have I seen a rich blue liquid come out of the tank when emptying it. Is there a water soluble blue dye on the film now that was NEVER used before? Haven't used 400TX but I believe it's wholly antihalation layer. In any case it's normal. Same thing with T-max where presoaking has always yielded a dark purple color. You may also notice a slight purple color after fixing. I understand this is a sensitizing dye but should wash out with adeqaute fixing and washing. If it doesn't you should refix in fresh fixer. I rinsed the film 4-5 times, and the blue solution became more and more dilute. Proceeding with the development routine, nothing else unusual occurred--except maybe the film-base fog seemed a bit heavier than usual. Is this new film truly a radical and surprising deviation from the past versions of Tri X? Thanks for your help. R.W. Behan Kodak changed the coatings which changed the developing times. NO other differences as I understand. Generally less time (1-2 minutes on average) is needed vs. the old films but you should retest. Kodak's recommended times are in their Tri-X pdf downloads: Old Tri-X http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...Pubs/f9/f9.pdf New Tri-X http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...4017/f4017.pdf |
#3
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"R.W. Behan" wrote: Help! I've been using TriX for the best part of 50 years, and tonight developed my first roll of 120 400TX. I've always used a pre-soak before the developer, but never before have I seen a rich blue liquid come out of the tank when emptying it. Is there a water soluble blue dye on the film now that was NEVER used before? Haven't used 400TX but I believe it's wholly antihalation layer. In any case it's normal. Same thing with T-max where presoaking has always yielded a dark purple color. You may also notice a slight purple color after fixing. I understand this is a sensitizing dye but should wash out with adeqaute fixing and washing. If it doesn't you should refix in fresh fixer. I rinsed the film 4-5 times, and the blue solution became more and more dilute. Proceeding with the development routine, nothing else unusual occurred--except maybe the film-base fog seemed a bit heavier than usual. Is this new film truly a radical and surprising deviation from the past versions of Tri X? Thanks for your help. R.W. Behan Kodak changed the coatings which changed the developing times. NO other differences as I understand. Generally less time (1-2 minutes on average) is needed vs. the old films but you should retest. Kodak's recommended times are in their Tri-X pdf downloads: Old Tri-X http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...Pubs/f9/f9.pdf New Tri-X http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...4017/f4017.pdf |
#4
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Tom, thank you. You've been generous with your time and knowledge. I will
henceforth anticipate and welcome the blue soup. Dick "Tom Phillips" wrote in message ... "R.W. Behan" wrote: Help! I've been using TriX for the best part of 50 years, and tonight developed my first roll of 120 400TX. I've always used a pre-soak before the developer, but never before have I seen a rich blue liquid come out of the tank when emptying it. Is there a water soluble blue dye on the film now that was NEVER used before? Haven't used 400TX but I believe it's wholly antihalation layer. In any case it's normal. Same thing with T-max where presoaking has always yielded a dark purple color. You may also notice a slight purple color after fixing. I understand this is a sensitizing dye but should wash out with adeqaute fixing and washing. If it doesn't you should refix in fresh fixer. I rinsed the film 4-5 times, and the blue solution became more and more dilute. Proceeding with the development routine, nothing else unusual occurred--except maybe the film-base fog seemed a bit heavier than usual. Is this new film truly a radical and surprising deviation from the past versions of Tri X? Thanks for your help. R.W. Behan Kodak changed the coatings which changed the developing times. NO other differences as I understand. Generally less time (1-2 minutes on average) is needed vs. the old films but you should retest. Kodak's recommended times are in their Tri-X pdf downloads: Old Tri-X http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...Pubs/f9/f9.pdf New Tri-X http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...4017/f4017.pdf |
#5
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Tom, thank you. You've been generous with your time and knowledge. I will
henceforth anticipate and welcome the blue soup. Dick "Tom Phillips" wrote in message ... "R.W. Behan" wrote: Help! I've been using TriX for the best part of 50 years, and tonight developed my first roll of 120 400TX. I've always used a pre-soak before the developer, but never before have I seen a rich blue liquid come out of the tank when emptying it. Is there a water soluble blue dye on the film now that was NEVER used before? Haven't used 400TX but I believe it's wholly antihalation layer. In any case it's normal. Same thing with T-max where presoaking has always yielded a dark purple color. You may also notice a slight purple color after fixing. I understand this is a sensitizing dye but should wash out with adeqaute fixing and washing. If it doesn't you should refix in fresh fixer. I rinsed the film 4-5 times, and the blue solution became more and more dilute. Proceeding with the development routine, nothing else unusual occurred--except maybe the film-base fog seemed a bit heavier than usual. Is this new film truly a radical and surprising deviation from the past versions of Tri X? Thanks for your help. R.W. Behan Kodak changed the coatings which changed the developing times. NO other differences as I understand. Generally less time (1-2 minutes on average) is needed vs. the old films but you should retest. Kodak's recommended times are in their Tri-X pdf downloads: Old Tri-X http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...Pubs/f9/f9.pdf New Tri-X http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...4017/f4017.pdf |
#6
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"R.W. Behan" wrote: Tom, thank you. You've been generous with your time and knowledge. I will henceforth anticipate and welcome the blue soup. Dick Of course some say the purple "soup" also contains sensitizing dyes so it may be both. Not being a film engineer I don't know and if ya asked one he/she would probably claim "proprietary." But still normal and harmless as long as you don't drink it "Tom Phillips" wrote in message ... "R.W. Behan" wrote: Help! I've been using TriX for the best part of 50 years, and tonight developed my first roll of 120 400TX. I've always used a pre-soak before the developer, but never before have I seen a rich blue liquid come out of the tank when emptying it. Is there a water soluble blue dye on the film now that was NEVER used before? Haven't used 400TX but I believe it's wholly antihalation layer. In any case it's normal. Same thing with T-max where presoaking has always yielded a dark purple color. You may also notice a slight purple color after fixing. I understand this is a sensitizing dye but should wash out with adeqaute fixing and washing. If it doesn't you should refix in fresh fixer. I rinsed the film 4-5 times, and the blue solution became more and more dilute. Proceeding with the development routine, nothing else unusual occurred--except maybe the film-base fog seemed a bit heavier than usual. Is this new film truly a radical and surprising deviation from the past versions of Tri X? Thanks for your help. R.W. Behan Kodak changed the coatings which changed the developing times. NO other differences as I understand. Generally less time (1-2 minutes on average) is needed vs. the old films but you should retest. Kodak's recommended times are in their Tri-X pdf downloads: Old Tri-X http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...Pubs/f9/f9.pdf New Tri-X http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...4017/f4017.pdf |
#7
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"R.W. Behan" wrote: Tom, thank you. You've been generous with your time and knowledge. I will henceforth anticipate and welcome the blue soup. Dick Of course some say the purple "soup" also contains sensitizing dyes so it may be both. Not being a film engineer I don't know and if ya asked one he/she would probably claim "proprietary." But still normal and harmless as long as you don't drink it "Tom Phillips" wrote in message ... "R.W. Behan" wrote: Help! I've been using TriX for the best part of 50 years, and tonight developed my first roll of 120 400TX. I've always used a pre-soak before the developer, but never before have I seen a rich blue liquid come out of the tank when emptying it. Is there a water soluble blue dye on the film now that was NEVER used before? Haven't used 400TX but I believe it's wholly antihalation layer. In any case it's normal. Same thing with T-max where presoaking has always yielded a dark purple color. You may also notice a slight purple color after fixing. I understand this is a sensitizing dye but should wash out with adeqaute fixing and washing. If it doesn't you should refix in fresh fixer. I rinsed the film 4-5 times, and the blue solution became more and more dilute. Proceeding with the development routine, nothing else unusual occurred--except maybe the film-base fog seemed a bit heavier than usual. Is this new film truly a radical and surprising deviation from the past versions of Tri X? Thanks for your help. R.W. Behan Kodak changed the coatings which changed the developing times. NO other differences as I understand. Generally less time (1-2 minutes on average) is needed vs. the old films but you should retest. Kodak's recommended times are in their Tri-X pdf downloads: Old Tri-X http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...Pubs/f9/f9.pdf New Tri-X http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...4017/f4017.pdf |
#8
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"R.W. Behan" wrote in message ... Help! I've been using TriX for the best part of 50 years, and tonight developed my first roll of 120 400TX. I've always used a pre-soak before the developer, but never before have I seen a rich blue liquid come out of the tank when emptying it. Is there a water soluble blue dye on the film now that was NEVER used before? I rinsed the film 4-5 times, and the blue solution became more and more dilute. Proceeding with the development routine, nothing else unusual occurred--except maybe the film-base fog seemed a bit heavier than usual. Is this new film truly a radical and surprising deviation from the past versions of Tri X? Thanks for your help. R.W. Behan I will be talking to a Kodak specialist tomorrow about the changes in their films since moving B&W film into the color film plant at Rochester. I think T-Max had already been made there for some time but Tri-X and Plus-X were not and have had some changes. Kodak notes in their press releases that this includes better anti-static properties which suggests a change in the overcoating and backcoating. Its possible that the type of dye used for anti-halation was changed. This dye is in the back coating which also serves to compensate for curling of the film. Anti-halation dye is generally made colorless by the sulfite in both developers and fixing baths. So, while it may come out in a pre-soak it may not show up by coloring the developer. The anti halation dye is not always removed. One of the symptoms of the decomposition of safety film base (so called Vinegar syndrome due to the accompanying odor) is the regeneration of the decolorized dyes resulting in colored splotches on the film. Sensitizing dye is another matter. Sensitizing dyes are used to make film sensitive to color, the basic silver halide being sensitive only to blue and UV light. In some films this dye is persistent, T-Max and Delta being notorious for this. While the residual dye is often blamed on insufficient fixing it is probably just very tightly bound to the gelatin even when the film is completely fixed. A treatment in a sodium sulfite wash aid, Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent for instance, will remove this dye. It will also decolorize any anti-halation dye that may remain. -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
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