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#12
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"CamArtsMag" wrote in message
... The advantage with tray processsing is that I can do 6-8 sheets simultaneously for different dev. times. With a closed tank all sheets will get the same developing time. Large open top tanks have the same virtue. Clip a plastic clothespin on one side of the tank to separate the batches. Move the N-, N, N+ on time and be happy. (Presumes same developer, of course and the quanity of developer is, admittedly, rather daunting.) |
#13
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Stated Michael Scarpetti the man who never processes
sheet film. BTW your wrong. In article , (Uranium Committee) wrote: (Largformat) wrote in message ... Step by step instructions on tray developing are on our web site www.viewcamera.com in the Free Articles section steve simmons Sheet film hangers and tanks are the way to go. -- LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918 |
#14
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Sheet film hangers and tanks are the way to go.
You make this sound so convincing and universal. Just be aware that a lot of people do not agree. steve simmons |
#15
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Sheet film hangers and tanks are the way to go.
You make this sound so convincing and universal. Just be aware that a lot of people do not agree. steve simmons |
#16
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Here's one that I came across a while back and haven't had the time to try
myself...always thought that it was interesting, though. http://philbard.com/panel.html argon |
#17
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They work great, back when I worked for Omega
I used them to process step wedge strips four & six to a panel. I also had someone make me a stainless tray with a pivot rod on both sides so I could rock the tray while it was suspended inside another tray as a tempered water bath. This method is very close to the recommended ISO methodology for processing film for sensitometeric testing. It produces the most controlled result of any method. It also eliminates handling problems one typically gets in the various other methods. In article , (Argon3) wrote: http://philbard.com/panel.html -- LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918 |
#18
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They work great, back when I worked for Omega
I used them to process step wedge strips four & six to a panel. I also had someone make me a stainless tray with a pivot rod on both sides so I could rock the tray while it was suspended inside another tray as a tempered water bath. This method is very close to the recommended ISO methodology for processing film for sensitometeric testing. It produces the most controlled result of any method. It also eliminates handling problems one typically gets in the various other methods. In article , (Argon3) wrote: http://philbard.com/panel.html -- LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918 |
#19
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PGG wrote: I've gone through my first 25-sheet pack of film. I've figured out how to operate my view camera just fine. I can take a decent picture-- exposing and focusing properly. But I had no idea how difficult developing it is...I thought that would be the easy part first 5 sheets I fumbled around with a color processing tube that didn't work out due to the film not staying flat against the tube next 3-5 sheets I tried using my own PVC tubes. They leaked all over the place and I got uneven development next 10 sheets I tray developed. At least these were evenly developed but all scratched up. Plus I fumbled around in the dark spilling crap all over the floor. My most recent attempts have been with 2 BZTS tubes bought on eBay. The best so far. But I realized that 3 of my favorite shots are messed up because, for about 10-20 seconds, the tubes were not moving. Yep...uneven development even though total time was 8 minutes. Sigh.... Frustrated but I haven't quite given up yet. tray developning is the simplest, fastest, and least expensive method. You just need more practice. No one learns to ride a bicycle without falling off and scraping a knee. I prefer tray process of sheet film to all other methods and been doing it for 25 years. My second method of choice would be a Jobo. A few of points to keep in mind: Don't develop too many sheets at a time: 2 or 3 are eough to learn good technique with. Cut your fingernails. ALWAYS pull the bottom sheet out sideways during shuffling/agitation, never drag across the film corners. I take the bottom sheet and give it a little downward tug to separate it from the stack before pulling it out and shuffling. Gently place the sheet on top of the developer and then push it down with the balls of the fingers, not the fingernails, onto the stack squishing the developer out from underneath. You can also wear latex or nitrile surgical type gloves to do this. I gently "corral" the stack with both hands in the corner of the tray ((8x10 or 5x7 depending on the number of sheets) when developing, ensuring individual sheets do not float around during shuffling. With each minute (2 cycles) of agitation I rotate the stack 180 degrees to ensure even development. Adams in the Negative has a fairly decent description of a tray processing. |
#20
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I'm also a large format beginner. So far I've shot 8 sheets, and have
had no developing problems. I use a Combi-Plan tank. I load the holder in the dark, drop it into the filled tank, put the top on and turn on the lights. I agitate it like a reel-style tank - invert it. When there's 30 seconds left on the timer, I turn out the light and take the top off the tank. I have 2 Yankee tanks I use for stop, fixing and washing. The wash tank is also the stop tank. It has a hose in it with water running. One minute in the water, then into the filled fixer tank. After the developer, I just leave the light out. I agitate in the water bath and fixer by raising and lowering the film holder in the tank. After the fix, I turn on the lights, put the holder in the wash tank, and let it wash with occasional agitation. I've gotten very nice looking negatives with no apparent streaking. This weekend I hope to have the D5 ready to go and make some prints. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Professional Shop Rat: 14,451 days in a GM plant. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |
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