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#11
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"Pete" wrote in message ... I have a nice Crown Graphic that I'm thinking of selling due to the high cost of Polaroid, which is really what I had bought it for. The only problem I have with it is this: The Rapax shutter works fine, except that the 1 and 1/2 second speeds become sticky and hesitant if not exercised regularly. Once a week seems enough... and, when they do hesitate, just tripping the shutter several times before using it cures it. I'm just wondering how severe one should consider this problem, and what can be done about it? Pete I answered this via Google groups last night but don't see my answer in the thread so will repeat it. The Graphex shutter is the same as the Wollensak Rapax shutter. These are good shutters. The slow speeds are off because the lubricant on the retarder escapment has become gummy. While a good cleaning is the ideal way to deal with this a couple of drops of Naptha on the gears of the retarder will probably bring it back to life. Ronsonol ligher fluid is pretty pure naphtha and easily available. To get at the clockwork you must remove the front cover of the shutter. This is done by unscrewing the front lens cell (I would also take out the back cell). Under the cell is a chrome ring which holds the front cover in place. Unscrew this. A grip made of a latex rubber glove will help. The mechanism is pretty obvious once the cover is off. Use a small brush to apply the naptha so it goes where you want. There are several shutter repair people who work on Wollensak shutters. All of them use hair springs so its not too difficult for a skilled person to make new springs when necesasry. When the main drive spring becomes fatigued it affects the higher speeds, not so much the low speeds, that is almost always due to congealed lubricant. Excercizing it will not cure it. Eventually it will stick. It really needs to be cleaned. Modern lubricants are synthetics which don't oxidize and gum, or at least not for many years. If you _really_ want to get into this shutter you can get a factory repair manual from John S. Craig at http://www.craigcamera.com The Rapax/Graphex was designed partially because the Kodak Supermatic did not work well with flash synchronizing solenoids. The Rapax/Graphex has a lighter "trigger pull" or push, to trip it plus the force is constant with the shutter speed. Also, the built-in sychronizer does not require separate cocking as it does on the Supermatic. When tuned up properly these are quite accurate and reliable shutters. Unfortunately, some of the Wollensak lenses that come in them are not wonderful. Welcome to the Graphic club. They are hard to put down once you get used to the thing. -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#12
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"Pete" wrote in message ... I have a nice Crown Graphic that I'm thinking of selling due to the high cost of Polaroid, which is really what I had bought it for. The only problem I have with it is this: The Rapax shutter works fine, except that the 1 and 1/2 second speeds become sticky and hesitant if not exercised regularly. Once a week seems enough... and, when they do hesitate, just tripping the shutter several times before using it cures it. I'm just wondering how severe one should consider this problem, and what can be done about it? Pete I answered this via Google groups last night but don't see my answer in the thread so will repeat it. The Graphex shutter is the same as the Wollensak Rapax shutter. These are good shutters. The slow speeds are off because the lubricant on the retarder escapment has become gummy. While a good cleaning is the ideal way to deal with this a couple of drops of Naptha on the gears of the retarder will probably bring it back to life. Ronsonol ligher fluid is pretty pure naphtha and easily available. To get at the clockwork you must remove the front cover of the shutter. This is done by unscrewing the front lens cell (I would also take out the back cell). Under the cell is a chrome ring which holds the front cover in place. Unscrew this. A grip made of a latex rubber glove will help. The mechanism is pretty obvious once the cover is off. Use a small brush to apply the naptha so it goes where you want. There are several shutter repair people who work on Wollensak shutters. All of them use hair springs so its not too difficult for a skilled person to make new springs when necesasry. When the main drive spring becomes fatigued it affects the higher speeds, not so much the low speeds, that is almost always due to congealed lubricant. Excercizing it will not cure it. Eventually it will stick. It really needs to be cleaned. Modern lubricants are synthetics which don't oxidize and gum, or at least not for many years. If you _really_ want to get into this shutter you can get a factory repair manual from John S. Craig at http://www.craigcamera.com The Rapax/Graphex was designed partially because the Kodak Supermatic did not work well with flash synchronizing solenoids. The Rapax/Graphex has a lighter "trigger pull" or push, to trip it plus the force is constant with the shutter speed. Also, the built-in sychronizer does not require separate cocking as it does on the Supermatic. When tuned up properly these are quite accurate and reliable shutters. Unfortunately, some of the Wollensak lenses that come in them are not wonderful. Welcome to the Graphic club. They are hard to put down once you get used to the thing. -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#13
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In article ,
Richard Knoppow wrote: I answered this via Google groups last night but don't see my answer in the thread so will repeat it. The Graphex shutter is the same as the Wollensak Rapax shutter. These are good shutters. The slow speeds are off because the Let me just reemphasize this -- these are *great* shutters. I have owned two; both have proven more accurate *and* more consistent than any other shutter I own, including modern Compur and Copal models. They do stick if not used often, in my experience occasionally even when kept reasonably clean. Firing the shutter 5 or 10 times in quick succession after removing it from the bag at the beginning of a shoot is a good precaution with these. -- Thor Lancelot Simon But as he knew no bad language, he had called him all the names of common objects that he could think of, and had screamed: "You lamp! You towel! You plate!" and so on. --Sigmund Freud |
#14
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"Thor Lancelot Simon" wrote in message ... In article , Richard Knoppow wrote: I answered this via Google groups last night but don't see my answer in the thread so will repeat it. The Graphex shutter is the same as the Wollensak Rapax shutter. These are good shutters. The slow speeds are off because the Let me just reemphasize this -- these are *great* shutters. I have owned two; both have proven more accurate *and* more consistent than any other shutter I own, including modern Compur and Copal models. They do stick if not used often, in my experience occasionally even when kept reasonably clean. Firing the shutter 5 or 10 times in quick succession after removing it from the bag at the beginning of a shoot is a good precaution with these. -- Thor Lancelot Simon Echo the above, and you can repair them with "normal" tools. Try that on your digital camera.... Truly, dr bob. |
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