Question For the new D700 Owner

With excellent noise control and dynamic range to ISO 6.400, the flash with
GN 17 is like a studio flash strong. Anyway, in Paris I have take 3.000
photos, 1.000 of them night shoots. I didn't use flash in anyone.
--
Dimitris M


Ï "Pete D" Ýãñáøå óôï ìÞíõìá
...


"Dimitris M" wrote in message
news:1246993537.639356@athprx04...
2. Flash. I have an SB28 which isn't great for the D700 and you
can't use TTL. I can't seem to find SB800s and the SB900 is $475.

SB900 is to bulky for travel. Anyway with the D700 I can't imagine where
will you need the flash. In case of emergency, use the small flash of
D700 with a small foldabe diffuser. So don't bother to carry the bulky
flash in Paris
--
Dimitris M


With a guide number of only 17 it is not going to shed much light compared
to any external flash, this camera deserves better.

On Tue, 7 Jul 2009 18:16:54 +0300, "Dimitris M" wrote:

3. 220 volts in Paris- There are a few things I will be needing to
charge. Can you get a converter and attach a power strip to it?

The Nikon battery charger in universal from 100 to 240 V. You need only a
passive plug adaptor.

Before my last trip I could not find my European passive plug adapter (I
still can't). So when I was over there I bought a new power cord that has
the European plug at the end. One is readily available in any computer
store.

The same for the laptop (normally)

I don't know what the plug is at the other end for a laptop, but I do know
the Nikon charger uses a very standard plug that all computer stores stock.

Now I find a six foot power cord to be unnecessary. So I have cut mine down
to a foot and a half. I now need to cut down the European one. I'll try to
get it down to a foot. Here is how I do it:

http://donwiss.com/pictures/rpd/h0009.htm

And the two pictures following.

Don www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

Don Wiss wrote:
I don't know what the plug is at the other end for a laptop, but I do know
the Nikon charger uses a very standard plug that all computer stores stock.

Yep, standardized as IEC-60320-C7
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_con...C8_connectors), very
very common for all sorts of low-power devices.

Now I find a six foot power cord to be unnecessary. So I have cut mine down
to a foot and a half. I now need to cut down the European one. I'll try to
get it down to a foot. Here is how I do it:

http://donwiss.com/pictures/rpd/h0009.htm

Don't tell me you soldered stranded wire? That is a major no-no.
Stranded wire must be crimped, never soldered. Soldering causes breaks
of the individual tiny wires where they enter the solder blob when the
wire is moved or bent, thus creating poor conductivity, which in turn
leads to heat buildup and in extreme cases even melting of the solder.

jue

In article , J¸rgen Exner
wrote:

http://donwiss.com/pictures/rpd/h0009.htm

Don't tell me you soldered stranded wire? That is a major no-no.
Stranded wire must be crimped, never soldered. Soldering causes breaks
of the individual tiny wires where they enter the solder blob when the
wire is moved or bent, thus creating poor conductivity, which in turn
leads to heat buildup and in extreme cases even melting of the solder.

where in the world did you get that idea? soldering stranded wire
works just fine.

Jürgen Exner wrote:
Don Wiss wrote:
I don't know what the plug is at the other end for a laptop, but I do know
the Nikon charger uses a very standard plug that all computer stores stock.

Yep, standardized as IEC-60320-C7
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_con...C8_connectors), very
very common for all sorts of low-power devices.

Now I find a six foot power cord to be unnecessary. So I have cut mine down
to a foot and a half. I now need to cut down the European one. I'll try to
get it down to a foot. Here is how I do it:

http://donwiss.com/pictures/rpd/h0009.htm

Don't tell me you soldered stranded wire? That is a major no-no.
Stranded wire must be crimped, never soldered. Soldering causes breaks
of the individual tiny wires where they enter the solder blob when the
wire is moved or bent, thus creating poor conductivity, which in turn
leads to heat buildup and in extreme cases even melting of the solder.

jue
I'm glad you told me that, I guess myself and every other person I
worked with for 38 years in the electrical/electronics field was
screwing up. I would rather rely on a solder joint anytime over a
crimped joint.

In message , Don B
writes
Jürgen Exner wrote:
Don Wiss wrote:
I don't know what the plug is at the other end for a laptop, but I do know
the Nikon charger uses a very standard plug that all computer stores stock.
Yep, standardized as IEC-60320-C7
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_con...C8_connectors), very
very common for all sorts of low-power devices.
Now I find a six foot power cord to be unnecessary. So I have cut
mine down
to a foot and a half. I now need to cut down the European one. I'll try to
get it down to a foot. Here is how I do it:

http://donwiss.com/pictures/rpd/h0009.htm
Don't tell me you soldered stranded wire? That is a major no-no.
Stranded wire must be crimped, never soldered. Soldering causes breaks
of the individual tiny wires where they enter the solder blob when the
wire is moved or bent, thus creating poor conductivity, which in turn
leads to heat buildup and in extreme cases even melting of the solder.
jue
I'm glad you told me that, I guess myself and every other person I
worked with for 38 years in the electrical/electronics field was
screwing up.

Me too... I was taught to solder stranded wire for aircraft systems...
It seems that the aero industry got it wrong. No wonder aircraft are
continually falling out of the sky...

I would rather rely on a solder joint anytime over a crimped joint.

Crimp is used because it is a fast cold system.... no need for an iron.
No need for the same level of skill. No dry joints etc no burnt
insulation, fingers etc etc




--
\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
\/\/\/\/\ Chris Hills Staffs England /\/\/\/\/
\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/

Dimitris M wrote:
2. Flash. I have an SB28 which isn't great for the D700 and you
can't use TTL. I can't seem to find SB800s and the SB900 is $475.

Anyway with the D700 I can't imagine where
will you need the flash.

You probably can't imagine what a fill-in flash in full sunlight
can do for an image, either. Flash is not always used as the
main light source.

-Wolfgang

"Larry Thong" wrote in message
m...
Jürgen Exner wrote:

Don't tell me you soldered stranded wire? That is a major no-no.
Stranded wire must be crimped, never soldered. Soldering causes breaks
of the individual tiny wires where they enter the solder blob when the
wire is moved or bent, thus creating poor conductivity, which in turn
leads to heat buildup and in extreme cases even melting of the solder.

Utter nonsense! Soldering and/or tinning stranded wire

"and/or" ??????

Pre-tinning i.e amalgamating all the strands together is standard practice prior
to soldering stranded wire in a situation

where it won't subsequently be subject to a mechnical load or stress.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

The latter is certainly not the case here !!!!!


michael adams



have been the
industry standard for the last 80-years.

Chris H wrote:
In message , Don B
writes
Jürgen Exner wrote:
Don Wiss wrote:
I don't know what the plug is at the other end for a laptop, but I do know
the Nikon charger uses a very standard plug that all computer stores stock.
Yep, standardized as IEC-60320-C7
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_con...C8_connectors), very
very common for all sorts of low-power devices.
Now I find a six foot power cord to be unnecessary. So I have cut
mine down
to a foot and a half. I now need to cut down the European one. I'll try to
get it down to a foot. Here is how I do it:

http://donwiss.com/pictures/rpd/h0009.htm
Don't tell me you soldered stranded wire? That is a major no-no.
Stranded wire must be crimped, never soldered. Soldering causes breaks
of the individual tiny wires where they enter the solder blob when the
wire is moved or bent, thus creating poor conductivity, which in turn
leads to heat buildup and in extreme cases even melting of the solder.
jue
I'm glad you told me that, I guess myself and every other person I
worked with for 38 years in the electrical/electronics field was
screwing up.

Me too... I was taught to solder stranded wire for aircraft systems...
It seems that the aero industry got it wrong. No wonder aircraft are
continually falling out of the sky...

I would rather rely on a solder joint anytime over a crimped joint.

Crimp is used because it is a fast cold system.... no need for an iron.
No need for the same level of skill. No dry joints etc no burnt
insulation, fingers etc etc





Oh Great! I spent $3k on a crimping machine for the rigging on my boat
when (silver)soldering the cables would not have created a weaker joint?

Now you tell me! After the 53 foot mast came crashing down in high seas
because some idiot ran out of crimps and silver soldered the uppermost
cable joints.

Boy... Have I got some news for you and it is all bad!

Forget the stainless rigging cable and focus for a moment on 240 volt, 3
core power leads. Are you seriously trying to say that a soldered joint
does not produce a weak point at either end of the join in a flexible
power lead? If you are I think you need a crash course in reality mate.

The only reason an Electrician has for soldering a joint is to ensure
electrical conductivity. Nothing at all to do with strength and
everything to do with single mindedness whilst neglecting the likelihood
of broken joints and discarding the purpose for using multi stranded
wire in the first place... Flexibility. That's why it is forbidden to
use multi stranded wire in walls of houses... It can break! If you
solder it, it is almost guaranteed to break in a situation of movement
of the cable!

Shon Kei wrote:
Chris H wrote:
In message , Don B
writes
Jürgen Exner wrote:
Don Wiss wrote:
I don't know what the plug is at the other end for a laptop, but
I do know the Nikon charger uses a very standard plug that all
computer stores stock.
Yep, standardized as IEC-60320-C7
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_con...C8_connectors),
very very common for all sorts of low-power devices.
Now I find a six foot power cord to be unnecessary. So I have cut
mine down
to a foot and a half. I now need to cut down the European one.
I'll try to get it down to a foot. Here is how I do it:

http://donwiss.com/pictures/rpd/h0009.htm
Don't tell me you soldered stranded wire? That is a major no-no.
Stranded wire must be crimped, never soldered. Soldering causes
breaks of the individual tiny wires where they enter the solder
blob when the wire is moved or bent, thus creating poor
conductivity, which in turn leads to heat buildup and in extreme
cases even melting of the solder. jue
I'm glad you told me that, I guess myself and every other person I
worked with for 38 years in the electrical/electronics field was
screwing up.

Me too... I was taught to solder stranded wire for aircraft
systems... It seems that the aero industry got it wrong. No wonder
aircraft are continually falling out of the sky...

I would rather rely on a solder joint anytime over a crimped joint.

Crimp is used because it is a fast cold system.... no need for an
iron. No need for the same level of skill. No dry joints etc no
burnt insulation, fingers etc etc





Oh Great! I spent $3k on a crimping machine for the rigging on my boat
when (silver)soldering the cables would not have created a weaker
joint?

Now you tell me! After the 53 foot mast came crashing down in high
seas because some idiot ran out of crimps and silver soldered the
uppermost cable joints.

Boy... Have I got some news for you and it is all bad!

Forget the stainless rigging cable and focus for a moment on 240
volt, 3 core power leads. Are you seriously trying to say that a
soldered joint does not produce a weak point at either end of the
join in a flexible power lead? If you are I think you need a crash
course in reality mate.

The only reason an Electrician has for soldering a joint is to ensure
electrical conductivity. Nothing at all to do with strength and
everything to do with single mindedness whilst neglecting the
likelihood of broken joints and discarding the purpose for using
multi stranded wire in the first place... Flexibility. That's why it
is forbidden to use multi stranded wire in walls of houses... It can
break! If you solder it, it is almost guaranteed to break in a
situation of movement of the cable!

Oh, holy CRAP.

Please quote the statement in NEC 2008 that forbids the use of "multi
stranded wire" "in walls of houses". As for "if you solder it",
electricians wiring houses seldom use solder. All connections must be
mechanically secure without solder--if you can figure out how to get solder
into them after the fact then you're welcome to do so but that's difficult
with most approved means of establishing that mechanically secure
connections. Stranded wire is not commonly used "in the walls of houses"
because it costs more, most switches and receptacles are not designed to
accept stranded wire, and there is no benefit from using it. If movement of
the wire in the walls of your house is an issue you have some major
structural problems.

Any time you have a situation where a copper wire can be flexed over a sharp
edge you will get breakage, whether it is soldered or crimped. The only way
to avoid this is to prevent movement of the wire at the connector, which is
usually done with the aid of a shell and strain relief with flexible cords.

Classic example of "no matter what you do or how well you do it, some
know-it-all will tell you that you did it wrong".