Questions about AP develop tank

narke wrote:

I can understand that, things I do not understand are those divide
symbal and numbers after them. I also do not understand the "1x127",
is it a film format?

Yes. 127 is the old vest-pocket format. It is largely obsolete
and I think only EFKE still makes the film, but there are a large
number of nice old cameras which take the 46mm wide rollfilm.

If I rotate the rod fully a circle, is it still worse than the
inversion?

I'm sure it is possible to get good results that way. If you
prefer that method, then I wouldn't change it unless you see
signs of uneven development. But I also wouldn't worry about
a slight leak from a plastic tank. Plastic tanks tend to
leak a bit, it may help to put the cap on slowly.

Some people have a nasty skin reaction from contact with
metol and other developing agents. Other people use their
bare hands in print developers for years with no evident
problems. I used to do that when I was a kid, I didn't know
that it wasn't a good idea. If you get developer on your hands,
it is a good idea to wash it off right away. If you are
really worried, or are using one of the more toxic developers,
you can protect yourself with gloves.

Peter.
--

narke wrote:

I can understand that, things I do not understand are those divide
symbal and numbers after them. I also do not understand the "1x127",
is it a film format?

Yes. 127 is the old vest-pocket format. It is largely obsolete
and I think only EFKE still makes the film, but there are a large
number of nice old cameras which take the 46mm wide rollfilm.

If I rotate the rod fully a circle, is it still worse than the
inversion?

I'm sure it is possible to get good results that way. If you
prefer that method, then I wouldn't change it unless you see
signs of uneven development. But I also wouldn't worry about
a slight leak from a plastic tank. Plastic tanks tend to
leak a bit, it may help to put the cap on slowly.

Some people have a nasty skin reaction from contact with
metol and other developing agents. Other people use their
bare hands in print developers for years with no evident
problems. I used to do that when I was a kid, I didn't know
that it wasn't a good idea. If you get developer on your hands,
it is a good idea to wash it off right away. If you are
really worried, or are using one of the more toxic developers,
you can protect yourself with gloves.

Peter.
--

Peter Irwin wrote,

it may help to put the cap on slowly.

? it heard a bit weird. Why slowly put on the cap helps in leak
reducing?

-
narke

Peter Irwin wrote,

it may help to put the cap on slowly.

? it heard a bit weird. Why slowly put on the cap helps in leak
reducing?

-
narke

Peter Irwin wrote,

it may help to put the cap on slowly.

? it heard a bit weird. Why slowly put on the cap helps in leak
reducing?

-
narke

Thanks. I decide to use 400cc for the suggestion of 375cc.

-
narke


Hallo Narke,
for the agitation or inversion I prefer total spinning of the tank for x times
(x is what you like, i'm on 10 times every 60")

The agitation that I do is gentle but firm:
hold the bottom strongly with your hand and turn it upside down gently but
constantly the x times you decided. After that, to pdiloge bubbles created
inside tha tank knock your tank against your lab table.
Sorry for my english, I hope my words can be helpful the same!:-D


Ciao,
Stefano Bramato

--
ed io imparo...

Thanks. I decide to use 400cc for the suggestion of 375cc.

-
narke


Hallo Narke,
for the agitation or inversion I prefer total spinning of the tank for x times
(x is what you like, i'm on 10 times every 60")

The agitation that I do is gentle but firm:
hold the bottom strongly with your hand and turn it upside down gently but
constantly the x times you decided. After that, to pdiloge bubbles created
inside tha tank knock your tank against your lab table.
Sorry for my english, I hope my words can be helpful the same!:-D


Ciao,
Stefano Bramato

--
ed io imparo...

narke wrote:
Peter Irwin wrote,

it may help to put the cap on slowly.

? it heard a bit weird. Why slowly put on the cap helps in leak
reducing?

I'm not sure. It definitely seems to work better with the older style
Paterson tanks. Maybe the air pressure from putting the top cap on
quickly breaks the seal between the tank body and the lid.
t is certainly worth a try.

Peter.
--

narke wrote:
Peter Irwin wrote,

it may help to put the cap on slowly.

? it heard a bit weird. Why slowly put on the cap helps in leak
reducing?

I'm not sure. It definitely seems to work better with the older style
Paterson tanks. Maybe the air pressure from putting the top cap on
quickly breaks the seal between the tank body and the lid.
t is certainly worth a try.

Peter.
--

Stefano Bramato wrote,

The agitation that I do is gentle but firm:
hold the bottom strongly with your hand and turn it upside down gently
but
constantly the x times you decided. After that, to pdiloge bubbles
created
inside tha tank knock your tank against your lab table.

Ddi you mean you tap the tank everytime after an agitation? I often
see people on the forum do the tap only once just after(or before) the
initial agitation. Which method is better? It should be a
consequence that agitation itself can produce bubbles if tap tank is
necessary in every agitation.

-
narke