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#1
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Selenium, KRST ?
Hello,
Where I live there's no KRST and shipping charges make it impractical to mail order it. Is there some formula that would give similar results - namelly deeper blacks? Thanks, Jorge |
#2
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Selenium, KRST ?
Jorge Omar wrote:
Hello, Where I live there's no KRST and shipping charges make it impractical to mail order it. Is there some formula that would give similar results - namelly deeper blacks? That is easy. Expose your film more so that the Zone V of the subject comes out to a net density of about 0.9, instead of the 0.75 sometimes recommended by Ansel Adams, while continuing to develop to the contrast index you require. I.e., if you are now getting the right contrast, develop for the same amount of time. This is normally one stop more exposure than you presently use. If you test the film, the Zone I exposure will no longer be around 0.1 net density, but between 0.25 and 0.3. Just live with that. Negatives developped like that will require more exposure when enlarging (or contact printing) than the ones you have now, which will get the blacks blacker while leaving everything else about the same. You will also get somewhat more shadow detail if your paper is capable of it, though you may need to illuminate them better than most people do in their living rooms to really see it. -- .~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642. /V\ Registered Machine 241939. /( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http://counter.li.org ^^-^^ 14:15:00 up 6 days, 23:16, 4 users, load average: 0.12, 0.11, 0.09 |
#3
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Selenium, KRST ?
Jorge Omar wrote:
Hello, Where I live there's no KRST and shipping charges make it impractical to mail order it. Is there some formula that would give similar results - namelly deeper blacks? That is easy. Expose your film more so that the Zone V of the subject comes out to a net density of about 0.9, instead of the 0.75 sometimes recommended by Ansel Adams, while continuing to develop to the contrast index you require. I.e., if you are now getting the right contrast, develop for the same amount of time. This is normally one stop more exposure than you presently use. If you test the film, the Zone I exposure will no longer be around 0.1 net density, but between 0.25 and 0.3. Just live with that. Negatives developped like that will require more exposure when enlarging (or contact printing) than the ones you have now, which will get the blacks blacker while leaving everything else about the same. You will also get somewhat more shadow detail if your paper is capable of it, though you may need to illuminate them better than most people do in their living rooms to really see it. -- .~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642. /V\ Registered Machine 241939. /( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http://counter.li.org ^^-^^ 14:15:00 up 6 days, 23:16, 4 users, load average: 0.12, 0.11, 0.09 |
#4
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Selenium, KRST ?
Jorge Omar wrote:
Hello, Where I live there's no KRST and shipping charges make it impractical to mail order it. Is there some formula that would give similar results - namelly deeper blacks? That is easy. Expose your film more so that the Zone V of the subject comes out to a net density of about 0.9, instead of the 0.75 sometimes recommended by Ansel Adams, while continuing to develop to the contrast index you require. I.e., if you are now getting the right contrast, develop for the same amount of time. This is normally one stop more exposure than you presently use. If you test the film, the Zone I exposure will no longer be around 0.1 net density, but between 0.25 and 0.3. Just live with that. Negatives developped like that will require more exposure when enlarging (or contact printing) than the ones you have now, which will get the blacks blacker while leaving everything else about the same. You will also get somewhat more shadow detail if your paper is capable of it, though you may need to illuminate them better than most people do in their living rooms to really see it. -- .~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642. /V\ Registered Machine 241939. /( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http://counter.li.org ^^-^^ 14:15:00 up 6 days, 23:16, 4 users, load average: 0.12, 0.11, 0.09 |
#5
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Selenium, KRST ?
"Jorge Omar" wrote in message ... Hello, Where I live there's no KRST and shipping charges make it impractical to mail order it. Is there some formula that would give similar results - namelly deeper blacks? Thanks, Jorge What prepared toners can you get where you are? There are formulas for Selenium toner but they are of a different type than KRST. Elmental Selenium is medium hazardous so, if KRST is too expensive to ship the ingredients for home brew Selenium toner probably will be too. Gold toners are also intensifiers and yield very good image protection. Their drawback is the cost of the Gold Chloride. Kodak In-5 is a Silver intensifier that gives neutral images and is suitable for use on printing paper. The only unusual ingredient is Silver Nitrate. I've not tried this on paper so can't vouch for it. Generally, the Dmax of printing paper is greater than is useable in a reflection print. If you look at a good print by _transmitted_ light you can usually see detail in the shadows that look uniformly dark by reflected light. If your prints look grayed down or low contrast there may be a problem with either the negatives or the printing process. Low contrast prints can be caused by a number of things including poor lenses and exhausted developer. Also choice of paper grade makes a large difference. Matte surface paper is not capable of the full Dmax of the emulsion due to light scattering at the surface. The darkest blacks are from glazed glossy fiber or glossy RC prints. This also affects the contrast since textured papers are not capable of the contrast range of a glossy print for the same reason, namely the surface scattering limits the density of the blacks. Agfa 231 Gold Toner Water (at 125F or 52C) 750.0 ml Ammonium thiocyanate 105.0 grams or Sodium thiocyanate 110.0 grams or Potassium thiocyanate 135.0 grams Gold Chloride, 1% solution 60.0 ml Water to make 1.0 liter Prints to be toned should be treated in a sulfite wash aid and well washed. The color of the image depeneds on the paper. Neutral or cold toned paper will be intensified with little or no color change. Warm toned paper will tend toward a blue color. The Blue produced by this toner is never as vivid as the Blue from Iron toner but the images are permanent. If this toner is used on a print previously toned with a sulfiding sepia toner it produces brick red images. Kodak In-5 Siler Intensifier Stock Solution No.1 Silver Nitrate, crystals 60.0 grams Distilled water to make 1.0 liter Stock Solution No.2 Sodium Sulfite, dessicated 60.0 grams Water to make 1.0 liter Stock Solution No.3 Sodium Thiosulfate, crystals 105.0 grams Water to make 1.0 liter Stock Solution No.4 Metol 15.0 grams Sodium Sulfite, dessicated 24.0 grams Water to make 3.0 liters For use slowly add 1 part of Soluton No.2 to 1 part solution No.1 shaking or stirring to abtain thorough mixing. The white precipitate which appears is then dissolved by the addition of 1 part of Solution No.3. Allow the resulting solution to stand a few minutes until clear. Then add, with stirring, 3 parts of Solution NO.4. The intensifier is then ready for use and the film should be treated immediately The mixed internsifier solutino is stable for approaimately 30minutes at 70F (21C). After intensification immerse the film for 2 mintues with agitation in a plain 30% hypo solution and wash thoroughly. I know this will work for prints but have not tried it myself. -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#6
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Selenium, KRST ?
"Jorge Omar" wrote in message ... Hello, Where I live there's no KRST and shipping charges make it impractical to mail order it. Is there some formula that would give similar results - namelly deeper blacks? Thanks, Jorge What prepared toners can you get where you are? There are formulas for Selenium toner but they are of a different type than KRST. Elmental Selenium is medium hazardous so, if KRST is too expensive to ship the ingredients for home brew Selenium toner probably will be too. Gold toners are also intensifiers and yield very good image protection. Their drawback is the cost of the Gold Chloride. Kodak In-5 is a Silver intensifier that gives neutral images and is suitable for use on printing paper. The only unusual ingredient is Silver Nitrate. I've not tried this on paper so can't vouch for it. Generally, the Dmax of printing paper is greater than is useable in a reflection print. If you look at a good print by _transmitted_ light you can usually see detail in the shadows that look uniformly dark by reflected light. If your prints look grayed down or low contrast there may be a problem with either the negatives or the printing process. Low contrast prints can be caused by a number of things including poor lenses and exhausted developer. Also choice of paper grade makes a large difference. Matte surface paper is not capable of the full Dmax of the emulsion due to light scattering at the surface. The darkest blacks are from glazed glossy fiber or glossy RC prints. This also affects the contrast since textured papers are not capable of the contrast range of a glossy print for the same reason, namely the surface scattering limits the density of the blacks. Agfa 231 Gold Toner Water (at 125F or 52C) 750.0 ml Ammonium thiocyanate 105.0 grams or Sodium thiocyanate 110.0 grams or Potassium thiocyanate 135.0 grams Gold Chloride, 1% solution 60.0 ml Water to make 1.0 liter Prints to be toned should be treated in a sulfite wash aid and well washed. The color of the image depeneds on the paper. Neutral or cold toned paper will be intensified with little or no color change. Warm toned paper will tend toward a blue color. The Blue produced by this toner is never as vivid as the Blue from Iron toner but the images are permanent. If this toner is used on a print previously toned with a sulfiding sepia toner it produces brick red images. Kodak In-5 Siler Intensifier Stock Solution No.1 Silver Nitrate, crystals 60.0 grams Distilled water to make 1.0 liter Stock Solution No.2 Sodium Sulfite, dessicated 60.0 grams Water to make 1.0 liter Stock Solution No.3 Sodium Thiosulfate, crystals 105.0 grams Water to make 1.0 liter Stock Solution No.4 Metol 15.0 grams Sodium Sulfite, dessicated 24.0 grams Water to make 3.0 liters For use slowly add 1 part of Soluton No.2 to 1 part solution No.1 shaking or stirring to abtain thorough mixing. The white precipitate which appears is then dissolved by the addition of 1 part of Solution No.3. Allow the resulting solution to stand a few minutes until clear. Then add, with stirring, 3 parts of Solution NO.4. The intensifier is then ready for use and the film should be treated immediately The mixed internsifier solutino is stable for approaimately 30minutes at 70F (21C). After intensification immerse the film for 2 mintues with agitation in a plain 30% hypo solution and wash thoroughly. I know this will work for prints but have not tried it myself. -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#7
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Selenium, KRST ?
After I posted, I've found out that I can mail order locally a selenium
toner made by Fotospeed, England. Seems to be equivalent to KRST (MDSS's are about the same). The reason for the question isn't that my prints do not have black tones - I use Ilford and Kodak glossy RC developed in a slightly modified ID-62 (no bromide, more benzo) and there are blacks, for sure. I've made maximum black tests and I can see when a print has just dark grays, and most times it can be corrected (more exposure, long dev times, paper grade) It's just that I've seen many posts stating that KRST turn blacks even blacker and I would like to try it. Thanks a lot, Jorge "Richard Knoppow" wrote in news:2n86a3Ft15cjU1 @uni-berlin.de: What prepared toners can you get where you are? There are formulas for Selenium toner but they are of a different type than KRST. Elmental Selenium is medium hazardous so, if KRST is too expensive to ship the ingredients for home brew Selenium toner probably will be too. Gold toners are also intensifiers and yield very good image protection. Their drawback is the cost of the Gold Chloride. Kodak In-5 is a Silver intensifier that gives neutral images and is suitable for use on printing paper. The only unusual ingredient is Silver Nitrate. I've not tried this on paper so can't vouch for it. Generally, the Dmax of printing paper is greater than is useable in a reflection print. If you look at a good print by _transmitted_ light you can usually see detail in the shadows that look uniformly dark by reflected light. If your prints look grayed down or low contrast there may be a problem with either the negatives or the printing process. Low contrast prints can be caused by a number of things including poor lenses and exhausted developer. Also choice of paper grade makes a large difference. Matte surface paper is not capable of the full Dmax of the emulsion due to light scattering at the surface. The darkest blacks are from glazed glossy fiber or glossy RC prints. This also affects the contrast since textured papers are not capable of the contrast range of a glossy print for the same reason, namely the surface scattering limits the density of the blacks. Agfa 231 Gold Toner Water (at 125F or 52C) 750.0 ml Ammonium thiocyanate 105.0 grams or Sodium thiocyanate 110.0 grams or Potassium thiocyanate 135.0 grams Gold Chloride, 1% solution 60.0 ml Water to make 1.0 liter Prints to be toned should be treated in a sulfite wash aid and well washed. The color of the image depeneds on the paper. Neutral or cold toned paper will be intensified with little or no color change. Warm toned paper will tend toward a blue color. The Blue produced by this toner is never as vivid as the Blue from Iron toner but the images are permanent. If this toner is used on a print previously toned with a sulfiding sepia toner it produces brick red images. Kodak In-5 Siler Intensifier Stock Solution No.1 Silver Nitrate, crystals 60.0 grams Distilled water to make 1.0 liter Stock Solution No.2 Sodium Sulfite, dessicated 60.0 grams Water to make 1.0 liter Stock Solution No.3 Sodium Thiosulfate, crystals 105.0 grams Water to make 1.0 liter Stock Solution No.4 Metol 15.0 grams Sodium Sulfite, dessicated 24.0 grams Water to make 3.0 liters For use slowly add 1 part of Soluton No.2 to 1 part solution No.1 shaking or stirring to abtain thorough mixing. The white precipitate which appears is then dissolved by the addition of 1 part of Solution No.3. Allow the resulting solution to stand a few minutes until clear. Then add, with stirring, 3 parts of Solution NO.4. The intensifier is then ready for use and the film should be treated immediately The mixed internsifier solutino is stable for approaimately 30minutes at 70F (21C). After intensification immerse the film for 2 mintues with agitation in a plain 30% hypo solution and wash thoroughly. I know this will work for prints but have not tried it myself. |
#8
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Selenium, KRST ?
After I posted, I've found out that I can mail order locally a selenium
toner made by Fotospeed, England. Seems to be equivalent to KRST (MDSS's are about the same). The reason for the question isn't that my prints do not have black tones - I use Ilford and Kodak glossy RC developed in a slightly modified ID-62 (no bromide, more benzo) and there are blacks, for sure. I've made maximum black tests and I can see when a print has just dark grays, and most times it can be corrected (more exposure, long dev times, paper grade) It's just that I've seen many posts stating that KRST turn blacks even blacker and I would like to try it. Thanks a lot, Jorge "Richard Knoppow" wrote in news:2n86a3Ft15cjU1 @uni-berlin.de: What prepared toners can you get where you are? There are formulas for Selenium toner but they are of a different type than KRST. Elmental Selenium is medium hazardous so, if KRST is too expensive to ship the ingredients for home brew Selenium toner probably will be too. Gold toners are also intensifiers and yield very good image protection. Their drawback is the cost of the Gold Chloride. Kodak In-5 is a Silver intensifier that gives neutral images and is suitable for use on printing paper. The only unusual ingredient is Silver Nitrate. I've not tried this on paper so can't vouch for it. Generally, the Dmax of printing paper is greater than is useable in a reflection print. If you look at a good print by _transmitted_ light you can usually see detail in the shadows that look uniformly dark by reflected light. If your prints look grayed down or low contrast there may be a problem with either the negatives or the printing process. Low contrast prints can be caused by a number of things including poor lenses and exhausted developer. Also choice of paper grade makes a large difference. Matte surface paper is not capable of the full Dmax of the emulsion due to light scattering at the surface. The darkest blacks are from glazed glossy fiber or glossy RC prints. This also affects the contrast since textured papers are not capable of the contrast range of a glossy print for the same reason, namely the surface scattering limits the density of the blacks. Agfa 231 Gold Toner Water (at 125F or 52C) 750.0 ml Ammonium thiocyanate 105.0 grams or Sodium thiocyanate 110.0 grams or Potassium thiocyanate 135.0 grams Gold Chloride, 1% solution 60.0 ml Water to make 1.0 liter Prints to be toned should be treated in a sulfite wash aid and well washed. The color of the image depeneds on the paper. Neutral or cold toned paper will be intensified with little or no color change. Warm toned paper will tend toward a blue color. The Blue produced by this toner is never as vivid as the Blue from Iron toner but the images are permanent. If this toner is used on a print previously toned with a sulfiding sepia toner it produces brick red images. Kodak In-5 Siler Intensifier Stock Solution No.1 Silver Nitrate, crystals 60.0 grams Distilled water to make 1.0 liter Stock Solution No.2 Sodium Sulfite, dessicated 60.0 grams Water to make 1.0 liter Stock Solution No.3 Sodium Thiosulfate, crystals 105.0 grams Water to make 1.0 liter Stock Solution No.4 Metol 15.0 grams Sodium Sulfite, dessicated 24.0 grams Water to make 3.0 liters For use slowly add 1 part of Soluton No.2 to 1 part solution No.1 shaking or stirring to abtain thorough mixing. The white precipitate which appears is then dissolved by the addition of 1 part of Solution No.3. Allow the resulting solution to stand a few minutes until clear. Then add, with stirring, 3 parts of Solution NO.4. The intensifier is then ready for use and the film should be treated immediately The mixed internsifier solutino is stable for approaimately 30minutes at 70F (21C). After intensification immerse the film for 2 mintues with agitation in a plain 30% hypo solution and wash thoroughly. I know this will work for prints but have not tried it myself. |
#9
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Selenium, KRST ?
"Jorge Omar" wrote in message ... After I posted, I've found out that I can mail order locally a selenium toner made by Fotospeed, England. Seems to be equivalent to KRST (MDSS's are about the same). The reason for the question isn't that my prints do not have black tones - I use Ilford and Kodak glossy RC developed in a slightly modified ID-62 (no bromide, more benzo) and there are blacks, for sure. I've made maximum black tests and I can see when a print has just dark grays, and most times it can be corrected (more exposure, long dev times, paper grade) It's just that I've seen many posts stating that KRST turn blacks even blacker and I would like to try it. Thanks a lot, Jorge My long post snipped. I forgot about the Photospeed stuff, from all reports its either identical to KRST or close enough. Selenium toner is an intensifier, it can be used on negatives with good result if only a moderate amount of intensification is needed. I use KRST frequently, It does darken the prints. In fact, if you fully tone prints you may want to adjust them a little or they may become too dark. -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#10
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Selenium, KRST ?
"Jorge Omar" wrote in message ... After I posted, I've found out that I can mail order locally a selenium toner made by Fotospeed, England. Seems to be equivalent to KRST (MDSS's are about the same). The reason for the question isn't that my prints do not have black tones - I use Ilford and Kodak glossy RC developed in a slightly modified ID-62 (no bromide, more benzo) and there are blacks, for sure. I've made maximum black tests and I can see when a print has just dark grays, and most times it can be corrected (more exposure, long dev times, paper grade) It's just that I've seen many posts stating that KRST turn blacks even blacker and I would like to try it. Thanks a lot, Jorge My long post snipped. I forgot about the Photospeed stuff, from all reports its either identical to KRST or close enough. Selenium toner is an intensifier, it can be used on negatives with good result if only a moderate amount of intensification is needed. I use KRST frequently, It does darken the prints. In fact, if you fully tone prints you may want to adjust them a little or they may become too dark. -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
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