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#1
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Starting out with developing question.
I am currently all digital, but am looking to start playing around with B&W
film. I would like to do my own developing and either do my own printing, or scan the negatives then print. I picked up a Kalt Stainless Steel reel and a cheap roll of film to practice the routine of loading film onto the developer reel: it seems like this is one of those skills that require some practice. Here is my question. How do you START the loading process? I found that if I take the film completely off the film spool and start from the end that is taped to the spool that I can get it started and wound onto the reel ok --- at least when I do it in a lighted situation. I can't figure out how to get is started if I use the start of the roll: the end with the taper - sproket holes on one side. Is it correct to start from the end that is taped to the spool? Thanks Jerry |
#2
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Starting out with developing question.
On 5/25/2004 8:32 AM Jerry spake thus:
Here is my question. How do you START the loading process? I found that if I take the film completely off the film spool and start from the end that is taped to the spool that I can get it started and wound onto the reel ok --- at least when I do it in a lighted situation. I can't figure out how to get is started if I use the start of the roll: the end with the taper - sproket holes on one side. Is it correct to start from the end that is taped to the spool? Pretty simple solution: try cutting the leader (tapered end) off the start of the roll. You do have a pair of scissors, don't you? Your pictures don't start until well past the leader. Think about how you load film into the camera. -- Civilization is just a temporary failure of entropy. - Christine Nelson |
#3
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Starting out with developing question.
In article ,
"Jerry" wrote: I am currently all digital, but am looking to start playing around with B&W film. I would like to do my own developing and either do my own printing, or scan the negatives then print. I picked up a Kalt Stainless Steel reel and a cheap roll of film to practice the routine of loading film onto the developer reel: it seems like this is one of those skills that require some practice. Indeed. While I'm a dyed-in-the-wool stainless reel guy, many people find the plastic reels easier to load. If you go that route, use the Patterson products. If you stick to stainless reels, you will in the long run be a lot happier if you spend the extra bucks for Hewes reels. Here is my question. How do you START the loading process? I found that if I take the film completely off the film spool and start from the end that is taped to the spool that I can get it started and wound onto the reel ok --- at least when I do it in a lighted situation. I can't figure out how to get is started if I use the start of the roll: the end with the taper - sproket holes on one side. Is it correct to start from the end that is taped to the spool? Six of one, half a dozen of the other. I usually just cut the leader square and start at that end. Other people I know unwind the film from the spool and start at the taped end. Have fun. -- -tony http://www.shapesandshadows.com |
#4
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Starting out with developing question.
Jerry wrote:
Here is my question. How do you START the loading process? I found that if I take the film completely off the film spool and start from the end that is taped to the spool that I can get it started and wound onto the reel ok --- at least when I do it in a lighted situation. I can't figure out how to get is started if I use the start of the roll: the end with the taper - sproket holes on one side. Is it correct to start from the end that is taped to the spool? Just cut the leader off square. There won't be any images for at least 3-4 inches beyond the end of the clipped portion, because that section gets exposed in loading the camera anyway. If you rewind without pulling the leader entirely into the cassette, you can even do this part in the light; then you can pull the film out of the cassette as you load, and if there's any kind of problem (like too many retries and your hands are getting sweaty) you can just turn the spool and pull the film safely back into the cassette before turning on the lights or opening the changing bag. -- I may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz! -- E. J. Fudd, 1954 Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth and don't expect them to be perfect. |
#5
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Starting out with developing question.
Tony, I've never used a stainless reel in my life. I am wondering what I'm
missing. I have busted a few Patterson reels over the years...any other great advantages to stainless? -- "Tony Wingo" wrote in message ... In article , "Jerry" wrote: I am currently all digital, but am looking to start playing around with B&W film. I would like to do my own developing and either do my own printing, or scan the negatives then print. I picked up a Kalt Stainless Steel reel and a cheap roll of film to practice the routine of loading film onto the developer reel: it seems like this is one of those skills that require some practice. Indeed. While I'm a dyed-in-the-wool stainless reel guy, many people find the plastic reels easier to load. If you go that route, use the Patterson products. If you stick to stainless reels, you will in the long run be a lot happier if you spend the extra bucks for Hewes reels. Here is my question. How do you START the loading process? I found that if I take the film completely off the film spool and start from the end that is taped to the spool that I can get it started and wound onto the reel ok --- at least when I do it in a lighted situation. I can't figure out how to get is started if I use the start of the roll: the end with the taper - sproket holes on one side. Is it correct to start from the end that is taped to the spool? Six of one, half a dozen of the other. I usually just cut the leader square and start at that end. Other people I know unwind the film from the spool and start at the taped end. Have fun. -- -tony http://www.shapesandshadows.com |
#6
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Starting out with developing question.
In article ,
"Tom Gardner" wrote: Tony, I've never used a stainless reel in my life. I am wondering what I'm missing. I have busted a few Patterson reels over the years...any other great advantages to stainless? I actually find them easier to load than the plastic ones, though I suspect I'm in the minority there (and again, there's a big difference between the cheap reels and the name brands). And they can be loaded wet - for instance if you decide your film needs more washing. It's also possible to load two rolls of film back to back on a single stainless reel, though I admit I haven't done this in 35 years. The thing I like about the Patterson plastic tanks is that they fill very quickly, which can be important if you're using short development times. -- -tony http://www.shapesandshadows.com |
#7
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Starting out with developing question.
Here is my question. How do you START the loading process? I found that if I take the film completely off the film spool and start from the end that is taped to the spool that I can get it started and wound onto the reel ok --- at least when I do it in a lighted situation. I can't figure out how to get is started if I use the start of the roll: the end with the taper - sproket holes on one side. Is it correct to start from the end that is taped to the spool? Just cut the leader off square. There won't be any images for at least 3-4 inches beyond the end of the clipped portion, With 36 exposure roles I have found it helpful to cut off an extra inch or so (being very carefull not to cut too far) beyond where the tapered part ends so that when I get to the end of the roll I don't have excess film extending beyond the the reel. I love the look feel of a good old fashioned stainless steel tank. This is purely sentimental of course . . . --Phil |
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