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Starting camera - Part III
I want to thank those who have helped with the decision about a 4x5
camera system. I plan a visit to the Seattle stores soon (Ye ole' hands on). I have some more questions after spending the weekend reading. First, I've narrowed the choices to a basic entry level field camera, such as the Toyo CF, or a basic entry level view camera, such as the Horseman LE (these are for examples but ones I intend to initially look at). I can understand the recommendations about buying a used camera, but I wonder if there's any advantages to buying a new one, besides being the first user. I can see where you get the warranty, service and support (company and store), and a complete working system walking out the door. My interests are for doing hiking nature/landscape photography (mostly day hikes and eventually 2-3 day trips) and city/townscape and documentary photography. I'm not concerned too much about weight since I use a big backpack, but the view camera would have to fit into that and under ~10 lbs (camera only). I also know I will eventually probably have both a field and view camera (yes, I intend to stay at it, it's my post-retirement work), but I'm interested in people's view of the initial camera (second probably 2-3 years later), either the field or view. Second, after reading Jim Stone's "Users Guide to View Cameras", for the most part he recommends staying with "modern" and later lenses. I've initally (re)decided to go with a 90mm and 150mm f5.6 (used) lenses, and a 210/240/270mm (used) lens f5.6/8 lens later. But after reading the specifications for the choices, there still leaves a variety of brand and model lenses. Jim pretty much suggests that the lenses, although different in design, will do the job, and it's personal choice of brand and model. Is that the case or did I misread this? Third, exposure. The books suggest I set the exposure for both the film and the development (time and developer). Since I'll be using a local lab for the development (eventually relearning film development), should I focus on the film exposure and use "standard" lab development? The book also suggest using the second in the film holder as a duplicate or the bracket shot. How much does one bracket a shot? I'm still working on the final checklist of things I need, and will have more questions. --Scott-- |
#2
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Starting camera - Part III
Scott M. Knowles wrote:
First, I've narrowed the choices to a basic entry level field camera, such as the Toyo CF, or a basic entry level view camera, such as the Horseman LE (these are for examples but ones I intend to initially look at). I can understand the recommendations about buying a used camera, but I wonder if there's any advantages to buying a new one, besides being the first user. I can see where you get the warranty, service and support (company and store), and a complete working system walking out the door. I highly recommend the Shen Hao field camera at www.badgergraphics.com . It is capable, sturdy and the price is right. In addition, the people at Badger Graphics are great. Second, after reading Jim Stone's "Users Guide to View Cameras", for the most part he recommends staying with "modern" and later lenses. I've initally (re)decided to go with a 90mm and 150mm f5.6 (used) lenses, and a 210/240/270mm (used) lens f5.6/8 lens later. But after reading the specifications for the choices, there still leaves a variety of brand and model lenses. Jim pretty much suggests that the lenses, although different in design, will do the job, and it's personal choice of brand and model. Is that the case or did I misread this? Old lenses can be very good. The problem, usually, is the shutter. Even professionally cleaned, they usually aren't as accurate a modern Copal, Compur, Prontor... So to the cost of an older lens you need to add the expense of a good CLA (Clean, Lube, Adjust). Additionally, filter sizes, if the lens even has filter threads, are usually of an uncommon size. If you're set on a 90 and a 150, I'd get a modern (1970's or later) 150, as these can be had for a very good price. Check out the prices at www.mpex.com before shopping anywhere else. I've had very good luck with them, and their prices are good. Any of the big names should be good. Schneider, Rodenstock, Nikon, Fuji... Third, exposure. The books suggest I set the exposure for both the film and the development (time and developer). Since I'll be using a local lab for the development (eventually relearning film development), should I focus on the film exposure and use "standard" lab development? The book also suggest using the second in the film holder as a duplicate or the bracket shot. How much does one bracket a shot? Well, it really depends on the conditions that you'll be shooting under and the effect that you want. Still, getting everything honed in for a "average" negative is a pretty good way to start. -Peter |
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Starting camera - Part III
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#5
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Starting camera - Part III
I highly recommend the Shen Hao field camera at www.badgergraphics.com . It is capable, sturdy and the price is right. In addition, the people at Badger Graphics are great. -Peter I find myself in the same position as Scott Knowles and had pretty much decided upon the Shen-Hao as a package deal from Badger Graphics which includes the Nikon 150. Then I see Badgers Brand 4X5 for a couple hundred dollars less and this package includes a Rodenstock 150. Without any experience with 4X5 I wonder about the two lenses -- how would they be different? One benefit I have found with either lens is with the purchase of a small step-up ring I can use my 9 (55mm) B+W filters & polarizer that I use with 35mm cameras. I see nothing wrong in buying a camera based upon lens criteria but trying to understand a lens's characteristics without using it is subjective and argumentative and requires a leap of faith. So, if any of you were to choose between the Nikon W f-5.6 @ $530 and the Rodenstock APO-Sironar-N 150mm/5.6 @ $575, in terms of corner to corner sharpness, contrast and resolution would you opt for one over the other? The pictures that I have made that I like the best are made with with a Zeiss Planar design. This represents the ultimate lens for me. _________________ Ready, Fire, AIM. Bruce Brooklyn, N.Y. |
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Starting camera - Part III
I use several longer Nikkors but do not like them as much as the Rodenstocks,
Schneiders and Fujis in the middle lengths (135-150-180-210). I have done side-by-side comparisons of the 150 and 210 Apo Symmar, Nikkor and Rodenstock Apo Sironar N. In the case of both focal lenghts there was virtualy no difference in resolution between the three manufacturers, same for sharpness. As for contrast, the Schneider and Rodenstock were just a bit more contrasty than the Nikkor. These were emperical tests of real scenes not line per mm tests, etc. Ted Harris Resource Strategy Henniker, New Hampshire |
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