If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Warming up a coldlite
Do any of you using a coldlite see the need to warm it up for a period
before using it? The older version (not for VC ) I've used for a long time and have never seen fluctuations, and have never needed a voltage stabilizer to guarantee repeated times. My year old VC model, yesterday went all over the board for a frustrating 30 minutes before repeatable times were established. Sunspots? If the problem is elsewhere, I still can't find it. Apertures were correct. That leaves voltage fluctuations, unlikely, or multiple personality Agfa paper. Also unlikely. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
My Aristo coldlite has two plugs, one is to a preheater, the other goes to
the time, perhaps one of the plugs is unplugged or maybe your preheater is dead. -- darkroommike ---------- "electric dust" wrote in message oups.com... Do any of you using a coldlite see the need to warm it up for a period before using it? The older version (not for VC ) I've used for a long time and have never seen fluctuations, and have never needed a voltage stabilizer to guarantee repeated times. My year old VC model, yesterday went all over the board for a frustrating 30 minutes before repeatable times were established. Sunspots? If the problem is elsewhere, I still can't find it. Apertures were correct. That leaves voltage fluctuations, unlikely, or multiple personality Agfa paper. Also unlikely. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
My Aristo coldlite has two plugs, one is to a preheater, the other goes to
the time, perhaps one of the plugs is unplugged or maybe your preheater is dead. -- darkroommike ---------- "electric dust" wrote in message oups.com... Do any of you using a coldlite see the need to warm it up for a period before using it? The older version (not for VC ) I've used for a long time and have never seen fluctuations, and have never needed a voltage stabilizer to guarantee repeated times. My year old VC model, yesterday went all over the board for a frustrating 30 minutes before repeatable times were established. Sunspots? If the problem is elsewhere, I still can't find it. Apertures were correct. That leaves voltage fluctuations, unlikely, or multiple personality Agfa paper. Also unlikely. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
electric dust wrote: Do any of you using a coldlite see the need to warm it up for a period before using it? The older version (not for VC ) I've used for a long time and have never seen fluctuations, and have never needed a voltage stabilizer to guarantee repeated times. My year old VC model, yesterday went all over the board for a frustrating 30 minutes before repeatable times were established. Sunspots? If the problem is elsewhere, I still can't find it. Apertures were correct. That leaves voltage fluctuations, unlikely, or multiple personality Agfa paper. Also unlikely. Gaseous discharge lamps like cold lights like to run hot. The output will increase as the lamp warms up. Aristo puts a heater in its lamps so that it can be used intermittantly but even these lamps should ideally be run continuously and exposure controlled with a shutter. Older cold light lamps without heaters will vary even more if operated intermittantly. Also, as fluorescent lamps age they become more temperature dependant. For consistent exposures you really need some sort of simple shutter so you can leave the lamp running throughout the printing session. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
"Richard Knoppow"
Gaseous discharge lamps like cold lights ... consistent exposures you really need some sort of simple shutter so you can leave the lamp running throughout the printing session. You really need both a shutter _and_ a compensating timer, and a regulated power supply (80-140 in, constant xxxv out). You can get away with fluorescent/cold lights and a timer [of the f-stop variety, naturally] if exposure is not critical and all exposures are substantially of the same magnitude. A heater helps but you have to turn the heater off when the lamp is on, and the heater must draw the same power from the wall as the lamp. With most 10 second exposures I doubt if this level of sophistication is noticeable but you may want to plug your heater into the safelight output of the enlarger timer for that certain je ne c'est pas. [Cretin (sorry, can't help it) will write an article within the year declaring this hook-up as vital.] -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/ |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
electric dust wrote:
Do any of you using a coldlite see the need to warm it up for a period before using it? The older version (not for VC ) I've used for a long time and have never seen fluctuations, and have never needed a voltage stabilizer to guarantee repeated times. "The older version ... " The surplus 4 x 5 F. Tube enlarger I purchased in 1958 did not use a shutter and took zero time for warm-up. Worked off my Time O Lite; just push the button. A very solid enlarger it was, with four or five small diameter tubes. To read the posts this thread I think it likely some have not yet made it into the mid last century. Dan |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
OT - Americans | DALLAS | 35mm Photo Equipment | 211 | November 26th 04 07:33 PM |
FS: Hoya 72 mm 81A and 72 mm (Moose) warming polarizer | Ronald Shu | 35mm Equipment for Sale | 0 | June 16th 04 05:43 PM |
FS: Hoya 72 mm 81A and 72 mm (Moose) warming polarizer | Ronald Shu | Medium Format Equipment For Sale | 0 | June 16th 04 05:43 PM |
FS: TIFFEN 77mm 81A warming filter | Dave013 | 35mm Equipment for Sale | 0 | May 5th 04 04:25 AM |