Using a Dry Mount press???

I know this will be very basic; but.....

I just bought a Seal 120 press and cleaned it up. Got Promount tissue and
release paper.

Washed some Ilford MGIV Glossy prints.

Took an 8 x 10 matboard, tissue print. Sandwiched that between release
paper. Set mount to 200 degrees. When warmed up, I put the sandwich in the
press and closed it for 5 minutes.

Take out the package, everything peels apart.

Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

Thanks.


--
Regards,
Dewey Clark
http://www.historictimekeepers.com
Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen
Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution

Try raising the temperature of the press higher in 50 degree increments
until the adhesion is good. The temperature indicator of the press may
not be accurate.

Here are some possibilities.

Did you adjust the press so the "sandwich" is actually
being compressed?

I am not familiar with Promount tissue. It might need higher
temp (unlikely), or the temperature indicator may be wrong.


The press needs probably 15 minutes to get to temperature.


This tissue may require that the sandwich be cooled under weight.
That is, it doesn't stick until the wax cools. in which case you
should have extra mat board above and below the sandwich; take
it all out of the press, and put a weight down on it until it cools some.

Also, glossy RC paper sometimes gets an "orange peel" effect with
release paper. Some people recommend something else which is
stiffer.

Oh,
5 minutes is too long, I think. I would try 2 minutes.

Tell us what works.

RJF

??? wrote:

I know this will be very basic; but.....

I just bought a Seal 120 press and cleaned it up. Got Promount tissue and
release paper.

Washed some Ilford MGIV Glossy prints.

Took an 8 x 10 matboard, tissue print. Sandwiched that between release
paper. Set mount to 200 degrees. When warmed up, I put the sandwich in the
press and closed it for 5 minutes.

Take out the package, everything peels apart.

Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

Thanks.

In article ,
Richard Fateman wrote:

Seal 120 press and cleaned it up. Got Promount tissue and
release paper.

Washed some Ilford MGIV Glossy prints.

Took an 8 x 10 matboard, tissue print. Sandwiched that between release
paper. Set mount to 200 degrees. When warmed up, I put the sandwich in
the
press and closed it for 5 minutes.

Take out the package, everything peels apart.

Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

Yes, you have a soft bed press - Seal, not a hard bed press - Ademco.
With a soft bed press the bonding takes place outside the press under
weight. With a hard bed press the bonding takes place inside the press.

With your press heat to the required temperature, press and take out of
the press and place a heavy weight on the print/mount until it cools.

--
To reply no_ HPMarketing Corp.

Thank you, that did it.

--
Regards,
Dewey Clark
http://www.historictimekeepers.com
Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen
Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution

"Bob Salomon" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Richard Fateman wrote:

Seal 120 press and cleaned it up. Got Promount tissue and
release paper.

Washed some Ilford MGIV Glossy prints.

Took an 8 x 10 matboard, tissue print. Sandwiched that between release
paper. Set mount to 200 degrees. When warmed up, I put the sandwich
in
the
press and closed it for 5 minutes.

Take out the package, everything peels apart.

Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

Yes, you have a soft bed press - Seal, not a hard bed press - Ademco.
With a soft bed press the bonding takes place outside the press under
weight. With a hard bed press the bonding takes place inside the press.

With your press heat to the required temperature, press and take out of
the press and place a heavy weight on the print/mount until it cools.

--
To reply no_ HPMarketing Corp.

Read the directions? Seriously some of these new tissues do not really bond
until cool (a bit like hot melt glue) and need to remain under pressure
until completely cooled off. Also, do not trust the thermostat on your
press, seal makes indicator strips to tell you what the temp really is
inside your press.

--
darkroommike

----------
"???" wrote in message newsdpNd.14115$uc.7634@trnddc08...
I know this will be very basic; but.....

I just bought a Seal 120 press and cleaned it up. Got Promount tissue and
release paper.

Washed some Ilford MGIV Glossy prints.

Took an 8 x 10 matboard, tissue print. Sandwiched that between release
paper. Set mount to 200 degrees. When warmed up, I put the sandwich in
the
press and closed it for 5 minutes.

Take out the package, everything peels apart.

Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

Thanks.


--
Regards,
Dewey Clark
http://www.historictimekeepers.com
Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen
Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution

The factory sealed roll of Promount I purchased new had a tech sheet
describing how to use various Bienfang dry mount adhesive in vacuum presses,
mechanical presses and hard bed presses. Also described how to make release
boards. No where did it describe this material (or any of the other
materials) as a heat activated/cool set adhesive. No where did it describe
what to do after heat was applied. I agree such information would have
avoided my need to request advice.

I did not mention the tech sheet because I thought readers would have
assumed the directions were already consulted ( as well as several books on
matting/framing/mounting).
--
Regards,
Dewey Clark
http://www.historictimekeepers.com
Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen
Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution

"Mike King" wrote in message
...
Read the directions? Seriously some of these new tissues do not really
bond
until cool (a bit like hot melt glue) and need to remain under pressure
until completely cooled off. Also, do not trust the thermostat on your
press, seal makes indicator strips to tell you what the temp really is
inside your press.

--
darkroommike

----------
"???" wrote in message newsdpNd.14115$uc.7634@trnddc08...
I know this will be very basic; but.....

I just bought a Seal 120 press and cleaned it up. Got Promount tissue
and
release paper.

Washed some Ilford MGIV Glossy prints.

Took an 8 x 10 matboard, tissue print. Sandwiched that between release
paper. Set mount to 200 degrees. When warmed up, I put the sandwich in
the
press and closed it for 5 minutes.

Take out the package, everything peels apart.

Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

Thanks.


--
Regards,
Dewey Clark
http://www.historictimekeepers.com
Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen
Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution

"???" wrote in message
newsdpNd.14115$uc.7634@trnddc08...
I know this will be very basic; but.....

I just bought a Seal 120 press and cleaned it up. Got
Promount tissue and release paper.

Washed some Ilford MGIV Glossy prints.

Took an 8 x 10 matboard, tissue print. Sandwiched that
between release paper. Set mount to 200 degrees. When
warmed up, I put the sandwich in the press and closed it
for 5 minutes.

Take out the package, everything peels apart.

Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

Thanks.


--
Regards,
Dewey Clark
http://www.historictimekeepers.com
Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for
Craftsmen
Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning
Solution

Make sure the temperature of the press is what it says.
200F should fuse any dry mounting tissue and is too hot for
some.
You need dry mounting tissue, release paper, some
"kraft" or "construction" paper, the mounting board, and a
flat weight. This is ideally metal but a sheet of smooth
plywood or similar will do.
There are two keys to good dry mounting. One is to dry
out the print and materials first. The first step is to put
the kraft paper into the press and dry it for two or three
minutes. Then, place the print emulsion side down on a sheet
of release paper. Put sheets of dry kraft paper on either
side. Put this into the press and close it down. The press
does not have to be locked for this. Leave the sandwich in
the press for about two minutes. Take it out and place the
entire thing under the flat weight for a few minutes until
it has cooled. This will flatten the print.
Now cut a sheet of dry mounting tissue a bit larger than
the print. Tack it to the print at ta point on ONE EDGE. Do
NOT tack it, as is often recommended, at the center, that
will cause wrinkles and voids. After it is tacked cover the
print on both sides with release tissue and place this
between a few sheets of dryed kraft paper. the kraft paper
acts as a cussion and to even out the heat. Put this in the
press and lock it down for about a minute. Then take out the
whole sandwich and again put it under the flat weight until
it cools. This will bond the release tissue to the back of
the print. Remove the print from the release tissue and trim
it to the desired dimensions. The mounting tissue will, of
course, be perfectly trimmed along with the paper. When
trimmed place the paper on the mount in the desired
position. Using a couple of layers of scrap release tissue
tack it to the mount board, again at a point on one edge,
not the center.
When its tacked cover the face with release tissue and
several layers of kraft paper, again as a cussion. Then
place this combination in the press and lock it down. Leave
it in for about two to three minutes. It should not take
longer than this to fuse the tissue. When the time has
passed open the press and place the entire sandwich under
the flat weight until cool.
When dry mounting is done this way the prints will be
perfectly smooth with no problems from wrinkles of voids.
The dry mounting tissue may be quite tacky until it cools
down. This may be the source of your trouble. However, test
the tissue with the tacking iron to make sure it does
actually melt and fuse. Its possible that the tissue is
defective. Secondly, as dumb as it sounds, make sure you are
not confusing release paper with the mounting tissue, in
some cases they look pretty similar.
While some archivists and gallery owners do not like dry
mounting I believe it is the best method for display prints.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA

"???" wrote in message
news:c02Od.22669$uc.2056@trnddc09...
The factory sealed roll of Promount I purchased new had a
tech sheet describing how to use various Bienfang dry
mount adhesive in vacuum presses, mechanical presses and
hard bed presses. Also described how to make release
boards. No where did it describe this material (or any of
the other materials) as a heat activated/cool set
adhesive. No where did it describe what to do after heat
was applied. I agree such information would have avoided
my need to request advice.

I did not mention the tech sheet because I thought readers
would have assumed the directions were already consulted
( as well as several books on matting/framing/mounting).
--
Regards,
Dewey Clark
http://www.historictimekeepers.com
Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for
Craftsmen
Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning
Solution

Release paper or tissue is very useful. I don't think
Bienfang makes it but Light Impressions does. The tissue can
be reused until it is wrinkled.
It is also a good idea to use low temperature mounting
tissue. Fusion temperature of mounting tissue varies from
around 220F to about 190F. For RC or color prints the low
temperature stuff is very desirable.

http://www.lightimpressionsdirect.com/


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA

As I re-read this I realize I left out the "second key". It is the
use of the flat weight. It should be used as indicated after drying out
the print in the press to make sure its flat and to cool the mounted
print under to make sure it bonds to the mount.
The more heat absorbent the material is the better. The ideal weight
is a plate of aluminum but even heavy plywood will do if its really
smooth. Proabably glass would work but I would be afraid of
accidentally breaking it. The procedure I posted is OK but I may not
have been as clear as possible about this point.
Make sure the thick paper used to dry the print and as padding is
free of anything which could transfer to the prints and attack the
image. Archival paper should be good enough.

Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA