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#31
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Tessar Coating Question
Q.G. de Bakker wrote:
Sarah Brown wrote: I've got some lovely results, with good contrast with an uncoated Tessar on Provia 100F. It's only got 6 air/glass interfaces after all. Plus one glass-glass interface. Provided the bits of glass do not have the same index of refraction (which they do not, else only one piece of glass could have been used), that glass-glass 'interface' will bounce light off it as well as glass-air 'interface'. The reflection at the glass-glass interface is much weaker than at the air-glass interface. This is obvious if you look at any cemented doublet lens, like the rear element of a Tessar, coated or uncoated; the reflection off the cemented surface is so weak that it is hard to find. There are several reasons for this. The difference between glasses' index of refraction is less than between air and glass index. Typical crown and flint glasses have indexes in the 1.5-1.7 range while air is 1.0. And the optical cement is formulated to have an index similar to that of typical glasses (n=1.5-1.6 or so). Also, lens elements use different types of glass not only for their different indexes, but for their different dispersions (variation of index with wavelength). This is how lenses are corrected for both aberrations and color. As a corollary, it is not necessary to put an anti-reflection coating on lens surfaces that will be cemented together. I wouldn't spend a lot of money coating an uncoated Tessar, even if it had magical properties. First I am cheap. Second, it is only going to perhaps mildly increase contrast, since Tessars have only 6 air-glass surfaces. Investing in a good lens shade is more practical. Unless you shoot heavily backlit scenes a lot, in which case perhaps a different lens is called for. If you do disassemble and decement a lens for coating, be sure you have a plan for getting all the elements back together with the proper spacing _and_ centering. |
#32
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Tessar Coating Question
Q.G. de Bakker wrote:
Sarah Brown wrote: I've got some lovely results, with good contrast with an uncoated Tessar on Provia 100F. It's only got 6 air/glass interfaces after all. Plus one glass-glass interface. Provided the bits of glass do not have the same index of refraction (which they do not, else only one piece of glass could have been used), that glass-glass 'interface' will bounce light off it as well as glass-air 'interface'. Actually that is two glass-balsam interfaces. But anyone who has seen a Tessar knows that they don't really matter. Since the coefficients of refraction are so close to each other, reflections are insignificant. -- Lassi |
#33
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Tessar Coating Question
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#34
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Tessar Coating Question
Matt Clara wrote:
"Stacey" wrote in message ... wrote: I recently got a quote to coat a Tessar - $700 if I'm figuring right. Talk to the guys at www.arax.com. Lower labor rate, MUCH cheaper at multicoating old optics and the people who have had them do this sort of work have been happy. http://araxfoto.com Whoops, thanks.. :-) -- Stacey |
#35
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Tessar Coating Question
wrote in message
... I recently got a quote to coat a Tessar - $700 if I'm figuring right. My original idea was to coat the easily removable front and center elements only. I would think the center element would be the most important element to coat, assuming I'm using a proper lens hood and a coated UV filter up front. The coating operation I contacted told me that in order to get a visible result, I would need to coat 80% of the surfaces. In other words every element of the Tessar - including the expensive separation and re-gluing of the rear doublet. Does anyone agree with me that one or two elements would yield a visible result or are they right in suggesting that it's all or nothing. Thanks Let's see, if I had $700 to spend on a lens, would I get an old one coated, or just buy a new one...? -- Regards, Matt Clara www.mattclara.com |
#36
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Tessar Coating Question
"Matt Clara" wrote in message
m... wrote in message ... I recently got a quote to coat a Tessar - $700 if I'm figuring right. My original idea was to coat the easily removable front and center elements only. I would think the center element would be the most important element to coat, assuming I'm using a proper lens hood and a coated UV filter up front. The coating operation I contacted told me that in order to get a visible result, I would need to coat 80% of the surfaces. In other words every element of the Tessar - including the expensive separation and re-gluing of the rear doublet. Does anyone agree with me that one or two elements would yield a visible result or are they right in suggesting that it's all or nothing. Thanks Let's see, if I had $700 to spend on a lens, would I get an old one coated, or just buy a new one...? I don't understand the recycling of the supposed outrage over this price. Again $700 is peanuts compared to the dollars being thrown at digital gear today. Plus, who, including myself has said that this is a reasonable price? Don't you think if I had thought it reasonable I would have just sent the Tessars for coating rather than asking if all of the elements need coating? And as for bokeh, I've seen a wide variation in effects across different four-element "Tessar" lenses: from the bizzare swirling pattern provided by a Wollensak Raptar to the gentle blurring of the Taylor-Taylor Hobson Micronar - so I don't believe there is a stereotypical Tessar "bokeh". |
#37
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Tessar Coating Question
"Lassi Hippeläinen" wrote in message
... wrote: ... The coating operation I contacted told me that in order to get a visible result, I would need to coat 80% of the surfaces. In other words every element of the Tessar - including the expensive separation and re-gluing of the rear doublet. Does anyone agree with me that one or two elements would yield a visible result or are they right in suggesting that it's all or nothing. Each uncoated glass-air surface sends about 4% of the light in wrong direction. With six of those, over 20% gets scattered around. If you coat four of the surfaces, the proportion drops to 8%. Thank you for the informative response. This is pretty much what I was thinking. Also considering that the rear two elements are cemented, I would think there would be less reflections going on there than with the front two elements. I'm really scared to have the rear two elements re-cemented also. It seems to me that coating is fairly straightforward, but re-cementing could prove to be a problem. Thanks again |
#38
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Tessar Coating Question
Etaoin Shurdlu wrote: wrote in message ups.com... Etaoin Shurdlu wrote: wrote in message ... [...] And I don't for one believe Tessars are "turds". Terssars are strange - kinda-sharp at the edges, sharp in the center, and the rest is soft. "turds", in other words. What are ya, Dr. Seuss? I just feel that a person should know what the lens does and use the virtues it has. Some folks do very well with uncoated lenses; they know where the light is thrown, how it diminishes contrast, how the sharpness works, and how to exploit all those characteristics. There are modern, coated Tessar-design lenses to choose from. And they will have better optical properties than the old Tessars, quite apart from the coating. I would suggest that an old Tessar given a modern coating will fall far short of a newer, coated Tessar. And these will fall far short of other lens designs, such as the Sonnar, when it comes to bokeh - Waterhouse (round hole) apertures or not. There has been some confusion on this newsgroup about the Tessar design. One of the well-respected posters here seemed to think they were all the same. They are not. So long as you have a diverging air-spaced doublet at the front and a strongly converging cemented doublet at the rear then that counts as a Tessar. There are an infinite variety of designs possible within this constraint when you think of glass type, thickness, spacing and surface curvature. The later Tessars were optical improvements over the early designs due to these factors. |
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