If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Help with Kodak Hawkeye film
I have 300' of Kodak Hawkeye Surveillance film
(B&W) and the first roll is still in the camera. I was checking development times with some small pieces and was upset to see the emulsion reticulate and finally fall off the film in lumps. My initial reaction was to blame the tap water wash before and after the fixer, but I suspect it is something other than that as other films don't do it even though the local water supply is down to 18% capacity and is doubtless full of various salts. I cobbled up some hardener and used that pre and post developer but the emulsion is still reticulated on drying, (but stays on the film base). The hardeners were alum and/or formalin based. I am wondering if anyone has worked with this film succesfully and could tell me the developer fixer combinations that were best? Experimenting with films is all very well, but I want to have some pictures to show afterwards. All help appreciated. Murray Brisbane |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Help with Kodak Hawkeye film
Murray wrote:
I was checking development times with some small pieces and was upset to see the emulsion reticulate and finally fall off the film in lumps. What's your wash temperature? If it is warmer than the development temp, you will get reticulation. Don't sweat the water table (at list for your film). Salt water does a better job of washing film than fresh water. Geoff. -- Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM IL Voice: (07)-7424-1667 U.S. Voice: 1-215-821-1838 Visit my 'blog at http://geoffstechno.livejournal.com/ |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Help with Kodak Hawkeye film
Geoffrey S. Mendelson spake thus:
Murray wrote: I was checking development times with some small pieces and was upset to see the emulsion reticulate and finally fall off the film in lumps. What's your wash temperature? If it is warmer than the development temp, you will get reticulation. I can confirm that. Where reticulation is concerned, the culprit is *any* appreciable difference in temperature between baths. Keep it as consistent as possible. (And not too hot helps too ...) -- Any system of knowledge that is capable of listing films in order of use of the word "****" is incapable of writing a good summary and analysis of the Philippine-American War. And vice-versa. This is an inviolable rule. - Matthew White, referring to Wikipedia on his WikiWatch site (http://users.erols.com/mwhite28/wikiwoo.htm) |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Help with Kodak Hawkeye film
"Murray" wrote in message ... I have 300' of Kodak Hawkeye Surveillance film (B&W) and the first roll is still in the camera. I was checking development times with some small pieces and was upset to see the emulsion reticulate and finally fall off the film in lumps. My initial reaction was to blame the tap water wash before and after the fixer, but I suspect it is something other than that as other films don't do it even though the local water supply is down to 18% capacity and is doubtless full of various salts. I cobbled up some hardener and used that pre and post developer but the emulsion is still reticulated on drying, (but stays on the film base). The hardeners were alum and/or formalin based. I am wondering if anyone has worked with this film succesfully and could tell me the developer fixer combinations that were best? Experimenting with films is all very well, but I want to have some pictures to show afterwards. All help appreciated. Murray Brisbane Have you any idea of the age of the film or its type number? I strongly suspect the film has been subjected to something unusual in its storage because modern films have very hard emulsions and are well bound to the support. Most motion picture type films are designed for automatic processing machines using temperatures up to 100F. Salts in the water tend to _reduce_ emulsion swelling so I don't think those are the problem. If the emulsion has was _not_ hardened for some reason you may have to process at a quite low temperature, around 65F, but, unless this film is very unusual I can't imagine its not being factory hardened. Also, you did not say what sort of process you are using. I would avoid highly alkaline developers like Rodinal but any standard B&W developer should work OK, most modern developers have reasonable pH. An acid stop bath has several advantages one of which is to reverse swelling in the developer. At any rate without more details one can only guess at what is happening. -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Help with Kodak Hawkeye film
OK - I think I have an answer.
The tap water is cool enough now - our winter. It comes out at about 18 C. The baths were from the cupboard at 20C. The emulsion was lifting off in the developer now that I think about it more closely. Wash temperature is out of the equation. After dinner and a glass of think juice (armagnac) and a cigar to settle the angst, I got to thinking about the developer. I had, after all, only been trying sodium bisulphate as a stop and or a hypo eliminator, and only used the developer to be consistent with a typical 'session'. The developer was a 2-bath suggestion from APUG that contained salt (NaCl) phenidone and VitC and appealed to my sense of the unusual. That was a dismal failure but I kept it in the fridge as there was phenidone and vitC that could be useful for an experiment. I added the carbonate to activate it as a single bath and after a lot of fizzing it worked fine - except the emulsion fell off. The lamp lit above me as I thought to myself that the salt might be acting by osmosis on the gelatine, so before retiring for the night did a quick check with Diafine and the emulsion is no longer 'tender' to the touch. It isn't reticulated and looks like it would scan or print as normal used any other way. I still believe a hardener would be in order with this film somewhere in the process but not, obviously, as a pre-hardener with a 2-bath. Thanks for all the thoughts. I located some calgon today and will go down that path with the wash water experiments, too. The sodium bisufate might indeed be a very good (too good?) stop bath or hypo eliminator. I only mention that because that's what is sold here (Australia) to lower pool pH, not sulphite, as in the US. Much more acid. More so than bisulphite even. That, and I bought some, so I have to find a use for it :-). That is what started the whole experiment off and revealed the emulsion vulnerability to salt. (I think.) I still have to finish the film in the camera, altho with 300' available the 15 frames I took today hardly make a dent in the supply, but I do have an economical streak, don't I? :-) Another one for the learning curve. Thanks to all. Murray Brisbane |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Help with Kodak Hawkeye film
Murray wrote:
OK - I think I have an answer. The tap water is cool enough now - our winter. It comes out at about 18 C. The baths were from the cupboard at 20C. The emulsion was lifting off in the developer now that I think about it more closely. Wash temperature is out of the equation. After dinner and a glass of think juice (armagnac) and a cigar to settle the angst, I got to thinking about the developer. I had, after all, only been trying sodium bisulphate as a stop and or a hypo eliminator, and only used the developer to be consistent with a typical 'session'. My gawd! Sodium bisulphate is the main ingredient in toilet-bowl cleaner. It results in an extremely acid solution. If you are averse to acetic acid as an ingredient of a stop bath, I suggest sodium bisulphite instead. H2SO4 0.1N pH 1.2 H2SO3 0.1N pH 1.5 Now for their salts, I am surprised at the difficulty of finding them. I could test some bisulphite with indicator paper, but I have no bisulphate. -- .~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642. /V\ PGP-Key: 9A2FC99A Registered Machine 241939. /( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http://counter.li.org ^^-^^ 06:15:01 up 5 days, 12:32, 1 user, load average: 4.10, 4.23, 4.19 |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Help with Kodak Hawkeye film
Yes, I was surprised myself when I did a google on
these two and found that the bisulphate was passed by the FDA for a food additive. An acidifier, IIRC. In the referrences I saw bisulphite wasn't that low but bisulphate certainly was. OTOH one doesn't have to use molar concentration. Less would stop a film real dead, quick. QED. Bisulphate isn't called 'dry acid' for no reason I guess. If after fixing it would help hypo elimination, well so much the better. Like I said, I was only playing to see results. If I could use it instead of (say) acetic acid I'd be ahead because I haven't found an easy supply of that, yet. So, again your inputs were to the point but we were all missing the important clue. I didn't associate the salt until later and none of us would therefore suspect it as a culprit. All in the name of photo science :-) Cheers. Murray Brisbane Jean-David Beyer wrote: Murray wrote: OK - I think I have an answer. The tap water is cool enough now - our winter. It comes out at about 18 C. The baths were from the cupboard at 20C. The emulsion was lifting off in the developer now that I think about it more closely. Wash temperature is out of the equation. After dinner and a glass of think juice (armagnac) and a cigar to settle the angst, I got to thinking about the developer. I had, after all, only been trying sodium bisulphate as a stop and or a hypo eliminator, and only used the developer to be consistent with a typical 'session'. My gawd! Sodium bisulphate is the main ingredient in toilet-bowl cleaner. It results in an extremely acid solution. If you are averse to acetic acid as an ingredient of a stop bath, I suggest sodium bisulphite instead. H2SO4 0.1N pH 1.2 H2SO3 0.1N pH 1.5 Now for their salts, I am surprised at the difficulty of finding them. I could test some bisulphite with indicator paper, but I have no bisulphate. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Help with Kodak Hawkeye film
Yes, I was surprised myself when I did a google on
these two and found that the bisulphate was passed by the FDA for a food additive. An acidifier, IIRC. In the referrences I saw bisulphite wasn't that low but bisulphate certainly was. OTOH one doesn't have to use molar concentration. Less would stop a film real dead, quick. QED. Bisulphate isn't called 'dry acid' for no reason I guess. If after fixing it would help hypo elimination, well so much the better. Like I said, I was only playing to see results. If I could use it instead of (say) acetic acid I'd be ahead because I haven't found an easy supply of that, yet. So, again your inputs were to the point but we were all missing the important clue. I didn't associate the salt until later and none of us would therefore suspect it as a culprit. All in the name of photo science :-) Cheers. Murray Brisbane Jean-David Beyer wrote: Murray wrote: OK - I think I have an answer. The tap water is cool enough now - our winter. It comes out at about 18 C. The baths were from the cupboard at 20C. The emulsion was lifting off in the developer now that I think about it more closely. Wash temperature is out of the equation. After dinner and a glass of think juice (armagnac) and a cigar to settle the angst, I got to thinking about the developer. I had, after all, only been trying sodium bisulphate as a stop and or a hypo eliminator, and only used the developer to be consistent with a typical 'session'. My gawd! Sodium bisulphate is the main ingredient in toilet-bowl cleaner. It results in an extremely acid solution. If you are averse to acetic acid as an ingredient of a stop bath, I suggest sodium bisulphite instead. H2SO4 0.1N pH 1.2 H2SO3 0.1N pH 1.5 Now for their salts, I am surprised at the difficulty of finding them. I could test some bisulphite with indicator paper, but I have no bisulphate. Jean-David Beyer wrote: Murray wrote: OK - I think I have an answer. The tap water is cool enough now - our winter. It comes out at about 18 C. The baths were from the cupboard at 20C. The emulsion was lifting off in the developer now that I think about it more closely. Wash temperature is out of the equation. After dinner and a glass of think juice (armagnac) and a cigar to settle the angst, I got to thinking about the developer. I had, after all, only been trying sodium bisulphate as a stop and or a hypo eliminator, and only used the developer to be consistent with a typical 'session'. My gawd! Sodium bisulphate is the main ingredient in toilet-bowl cleaner. It results in an extremely acid solution. If you are averse to acetic acid as an ingredient of a stop bath, I suggest sodium bisulphite instead. H2SO4 0.1N pH 1.2 H2SO3 0.1N pH 1.5 Now for their salts, I am surprised at the difficulty of finding them. I could test some bisulphite with indicator paper, but I have no bisulphate. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Help with Kodak Hawkeye film
"Murray" wrote in message ... OK - I think I have an answer. The tap water is cool enough now - our winter. It comes out at about 18 C. The baths were from the cupboard at 20C. The emulsion was lifting off in the developer now that I think about it more closely. Wash temperature is out of the equation. After dinner and a glass of think juice (armagnac) and a cigar to settle the angst, I got to thinking about the developer. I had, after all, only been trying sodium bisulphate as a stop and or a hypo eliminator, and only used the developer to be consistent with a typical 'session'. The developer was a 2-bath suggestion from APUG that contained salt (NaCl) phenidone and VitC and appealed to my sense of the unusual. That was a dismal failure but I kept it in the fridge as there was phenidone and vitC that could be useful for an experiment. I added the carbonate to activate it as a single bath and after a lot of fizzing it worked fine - except the emulsion fell off. The lamp lit above me as I thought to myself that the salt might be acting by osmosis on the gelatine, so before retiring for the night did a quick check with Diafine and the emulsion is no longer 'tender' to the touch. It isn't reticulated and looks like it would scan or print as normal used any other way. I still believe a hardener would be in order with this film somewhere in the process but not, obviously, as a pre-hardener with a 2-bath. Thanks for all the thoughts. I located some calgon today and will go down that path with the wash water experiments, too. The sodium bisufate might indeed be a very good (too good?) stop bath or hypo eliminator. I only mention that because that's what is sold here (Australia) to lower pool pH, not sulphite, as in the US. Much more acid. More so than bisulphite even. That, and I bought some, so I have to find a use for it :-). That is what started the whole experiment off and revealed the emulsion vulnerability to salt. (I think.) I still have to finish the film in the camera, altho with 300' available the 15 frames I took today hardly make a dent in the supply, but I do have an economical streak, don't I? :-) Another one for the learning curve. Thanks to all. Murray Brisbane Sodium bisul_fate_ is a pretty strong acid. I think you should stick with normal stop baths, typically about 2% Acetic acid. Sodium Bisul_fite_ makes a reasonable stop bath if you are sensitive to the odor of Acetic acid. Everyone wants to try something exotic but the reason most of the exotic is so is because it doesn't work. Stick with conventional developer, stop bath and a hardening fixing bath. Neither Sodium Bisulfate or Bisulfite is an effective wash aid. The best is about a 2% solution of Sodium Sulfite. Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent is Sodium sulfite buffered to neutral with Sodium bisulfite and the addition of two sequestering agents, EDTA Tetra-sodium salt, and Sodium Citrate. These are present to prevent the deposition of mineral salts in the water and sludging from alum in hardening fixer which can react with the sulfite to produce a hard to remove deposit. The advantage of buffering is that it results in neutral pH which minimises emulsion swelling and also retains the hardening action of Alum hardeners although it eliminates the binding action of alum for thiosulfate. An alkali bath will destroy the hardening and swell the emulsion. Most modern developers, for instance D-76, T-Max (both versions), HC-110, Ilford Microphen, etc., have relatively low pH and will not damage emulsions. If you want a very low pH developer use D-23. Sodium Sulfate is used for drain cleaner and AFAIK has no application in photography. -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Scanning Kodak 126 film with film/slide scanner | [email protected] | Digital Photography | 5 | June 13th 06 12:27 AM |
Fuji - film is here! (as opposed to Kodak CEO's "film is gone" statement) | Lorem Ipsum | Medium Format Photography Equipment | 21 | January 29th 06 04:02 AM |
Kodak Brownie Hawkeye: f-stop=? & shutter=1/? | MJL Photo | Medium Format Photography Equipment | 3 | March 9th 05 03:13 PM |
Kodak Gold 100 vs Kodak Bright Sun vs Kodak High Definition Colour Film | Graham Fountain | 35mm Photo Equipment | 9 | October 5th 04 12:57 AM |
FS: Kodak hawkeye flash fun outfit | cohenandy | General Equipment For Sale | 0 | December 19th 03 07:25 PM |