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#1
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Lense selection for FUJI S2 DIGITAL CAMERA
I just bought FUJI S2 digital camera with 28-100 f3.5-5.6 and 70-300
f4-5.6 Nikkor lenses. It was package deal so i had to buy those lenses. I am in business of selling jewelries in internet. I take pictures of different size jewelry pieces. They are as large as 15" x 6" necklaces or 3" x 3" bracelets down to as small as 1/2" rings or pins. What macro lenses are recommended to take pictures of these items to get sharpest pictures possible? Thanks for your comments. |
#2
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Lense selection for FUJI S2 DIGITAL CAMERA
Your 28-100 should do the trick.
Lens choice is important, but for web images, composition, lighting, and gamut control should be high on your list of concerns. Standard jpeg web images are limited to 216/256 colors at 72 dpi with most images sized at 400x600 or less. Your camera/lens is capturing images with millions of colors and pixels; most of which will be 'lost' in the final web image. Lens quality is not going to be very apparent in the final image. Assuming dial-up bandwidth, your jpeg images shouldn't exceed 20-30KB. That means heavy compression and marginal clarity. Even at DSL/T1 bandwidth, 200-300KB jpeg files can still be pretty blurry when magnified. Publishing high quality images on the web is always a tradeoff between reasonable access times and acceptable quality. Try your existing 28-100 lens and consider PDF files for higher quality. TBL; your lens is not the issue. HTH Mr3 "shrestha" wrote in message om... I just bought FUJI S2 digital camera with 28-100 f3.5-5.6 and 70-300 f4-5.6 Nikkor lenses. It was package deal so i had to buy those lenses. I am in business of selling jewelries in internet. I take pictures of different size jewelry pieces. They are as large as 15" x 6" necklaces or 3" x 3" bracelets down to as small as 1/2" rings or pins. What macro lenses are recommended to take pictures of these items to get sharpest pictures possible? Thanks for your comments. |
#3
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Lense selection for FUJI S2 DIGITAL CAMERA
Although many of the shorter focal length zooms have a 'Macro' setting and
can offer a close focus setting, true macro is actually when an object can be photographed at 1:1 size (or at least better than 1:2; that means that if an ring is, for example, 20mm in diameter, the image on a 35mm film will also be 20mm diameter. There are a few ways to achieve this, most commonly would be to either use a true Macro lens, such at the Micro Nikkor range (or equivalent lenses from other manufacturers such as Sigma, Tokina, Tamron etc.) or to use a non-zoom lens of appropriate focal length with extension tubes or bellows, which allows the lens to be further away from the film-plane and thus closer focus. The use of a true Macro lens, which are all fixed focal length, is preferable to the use of tubes or bellows as the lens will be designed for this purpose, and thus almost certainly give a better image, in addition all of the lenses electronic functions will still be operational. The choice of focal length is crucially important. If the lens is too short (usually less than 50mm) then you could encounter distortion of the image, similar to that encountered with wide-angle lenses, however if the lens is too long (greater than 135mm) then the depth of field becomes miniscule, so that even when focussing down on a very small object, such as a precious stone, could have one side of the object in pin-sharp focus and the other side of the stone completely blurred. This problem can be alleviated to a certain extent by the correct use of lighting and a slow exposure with a small aperture (between f32 and f16), however most lenses perform best about midway in the aperture region (for a f2.8 lens it's roughly around f8 and f11). The most common Macro lenses in the Nikkor range are the 50mm, 60mm, and 105mm (I have had one of these excellent lenses). I would suggest that the 60mm might be a good focal length to start with, as it does not excessively distort and has a better depth of field than the 105mm (which also happens to be about the best focal length for portraiture photography). It also means that you don't need to be too far away from your object being photographed, such as the necklaces, however the longer 105mm may be a better lens for individual items such as gemstones, earrings and items up to rings. The other crucial items of equipment you will need will be a tripod, remote shutter release (I don't know what fittings your camera has) and good lighting so as to ensure even (possibly diffuse) lighting, as high contrast shadows will eliminate detail of the object being photographed. I've never found that auto-focus works successfully in Macro, and as your object won't be moving and the camera will be on a tripod, manual focussing is preferable. NB. All of the focal lengths above are based upon the use of 35mm film sized image, the size of the cameras image plane will affect the focal length of lens required as, for example, 50mm is a lens on a standard lens on 35mm, however it's a wide-angle on a medium format 120/220 film camera (6 x 6 cm image), and an 80mm lens on 35mm is a short telephoto, whereas it's a standard lens on medium format. I hope that this helps. Regards, Tony "shrestha" wrote in message om... I just bought FUJI S2 digital camera with 28-100 f3.5-5.6 and 70-300 f4-5.6 Nikkor lenses. It was package deal so i had to buy those lenses. I am in business of selling jewelries in internet. I take pictures of different size jewelry pieces. They are as large as 15" x 6" necklaces or 3" x 3" bracelets down to as small as 1/2" rings or pins. What macro lenses are recommended to take pictures of these items to get sharpest pictures possible? Thanks for your comments. |
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