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Geezer installing a darkroom ...



 
 
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  #11  
Old September 4th 09, 07:37 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
David Nebenzahl
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Posts: 1,353
Default Geezer installing a darkroom ...

On 9/4/2009 7:27 AM Thor Lancelot Simon spake thus:

I would not try to run a darkroom with positive-pressure ventilation.
It sounds good in theory, but a wet darkroom makes a lot of dirty
air which you really want out before it can irritate your mucus
membranes and your lungs. If anything, balanced airflow, with
fans for both intake and exhaust air, blowing across the sink,
would be the best way to go.


I can see that as a potential problem, but wouldn't it depend on where
the air inlets and outlets were? If the air source were on one side of
you and an outlet placed on the other side of the wet area, then airflow
would carry the moisture and fumes away from you, no?

But in any case I can see that careful design is called for here.


--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism
  #13  
Old September 5th 09, 10:27 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
Nicholas O. Lindan
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Posts: 1,227
Default Geezer installing a darkroom ...

"Thor Lancelot Simon" wrote

I would not try to run a darkroom with positive-pressure ventilation.
It sounds good in theory, but a wet darkroom makes a lot of dirty
air which you really want out


I would think the relative pressure doesn't really matter with
regards the freshness of the air in the darkroom - all
the air that goes in has to go out in any system. The problem with
positive pressure is the possibility of fumigating the house with
fumes from the darkroom - but I have never noticed darkroom odors
in other parts of the house though the darkroom is positive pressure,
just about all the air goes out the exhaust vent.

If the fumes from the trays are a nuisance then I would arrange
a hood over the sink, possibly with a low power exhaust fan,
and make sure a majority of the air exits the room via the fume
hood.

But the room should be at positive pressure with respect to the
surroundings to keep it clean. You push clean air in and let dirty
air out. With negative pressure you suck dirty air in through the
cracks and push even dirtier air out - though you do have more
control over where the dirty air goes.

I've done a lot of work in and with electronics clean room labs and
manufacturing and it is all positive pressure. Biohazard labs
and chemistry labs on the other hand are negative pressure.

Me, I hate dust and love the smell of fixer. If your proclivities
are the other way around, well, all I can say is your darkroom sucks.
Er, should suck.

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters
http://www.darkroomautomation.com/da-main.htm
n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com


  #14  
Old September 9th 09, 02:51 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
Bill[_12_]
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Posts: 3
Default Geezer installing a darkroom ...

wrote:

September 1, 2009, from Lloyd Erlick,

Rec.Photo.Darkroom has been pretty slow most
of the summer. So I'm going to use it to
celebrate my Geezerhood (turned sixty this
summer ...) by recounting the thrilling
installation of my darkroom in my latest new
home.


---snip---

regards,
--le
________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
website:
www.heylloyd.com
telephone: 416-686-0326
email:
________________________________
--


It's a lot of work, but worth it. I "built a house around a darkroom" (as
my wife says) about 15 years ago. Been using it steadily since.

One of the things I did that really paid off was to clean the room (of
construction dust) and paint it (to freeze the rest of the dust). Then I
installed a floor-standing air filter, with a HEPA filter element. It's
been running ever since. My spotting needs are minimal.

Second greatest non-photo accessory was the floor mats. Costco had them.
The mats are about 1/4 inch thick, interlock at the edges. I tiled the
floor with them. They are waterproof and great for the feet.

For drying negs and prints my system is two wires strung across the room,
anchored in 2x4 studs so they are 16" apart. Before anchoring the second
end of each wire, I strung them with alternating spring-type clothes pins
and 2" lengths of tubing. NOTE: the pins were strung through holes drilled
in both handles, not through the spring. This way they hold material at
right angles to the wire. RC papers and films hang from one clip. Fiber
papers you can stretch between clips on the two wires. An 1x14 or 16x20
fit easily. If you do smaller, you might want to add a third wire. No
rack to clean, no floor space taken. Use plastic clips--my wooden ones are
starting to stick to prints.

Enjoy.

Bill

 




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