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#11
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George wrote:
"Alan Browne" wrote in message Better to vacuum. Blowers move things around and drive particles ever deeper into the camera to cause future problems or merely come back and repeat what they were doing. A very low pressure vacuum, mind you, with a light brushing to dislodge particles. Not a bad idea BUT you might want to get one of those little ESD vacuums for computer use... Reason is that airflow past some materials (such as G10, circuit board material) will create a static charge. (ESD vacuums don't ionize the air, the nozzles and hoses are slightly conductive so that a charge can't build up.) Good point. See also http://tinyurl.com/66epq which I wrote some time ago. Cheers, Alan -- -- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. |
#12
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"MeMe" wrote in message news:mfCOd.57797$mt.13237@fed1read03... SNIP I think this is absolute hogwash! Nobody is forcing you to buy their brushes. They work as promised on my sensors. SNIP I encourage everyone to go to an art supply store and buy a high quality nylon brush for a couple of dollars, and a can of compressed air. Voila! Why don't you take your own advice? Bart |
#13
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What I was referring to was not the Sensor Brush, but the alternative he
posted. Low pass filters are extremely fragile brush bristles of any kind can damage the surface. "Alan Adrian" wrote in message ... In the case of a Sensor Brush, the air is to charge and clean the brush ... it's used away from the camera. I myself view the Sensor Brush as a case of someone trying to capitilize on a bit of research into what works best, and some added value of clean room (I hope) techniques in packaging... But If I am looking forward to the day that the research gets into the public domain (someone else does some looking and reports it to the Internet),and a known source for the appropriate (clean) brush... So that we can pay the $3 worth of materials and shipping, instead of the gross amount currently charged. Al.. "Jason P." wrote in message ... I would never recommend using compressed air in the chamber of a digital camera. If you use an aerosol/compressed air it becomes very easy get liquid proplent on the CCD. |
#14
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Jason P. wrote:
What I was referring to was not the Sensor Brush, but the alternative he posted. Low pass filters are extremely fragile brush bristles of any kind can damage the surface. I see you are posting from Canada, which just coincidentally is the home of visibledust.com. I'm not implying that you are a sock puppet for that company, but it /is/ an interesting coincidence. You say that "bristle brushes" can damage low pass sensors. You are spreading FUD, aren't you? A hog's hair bristle brush used for oil painting is indeed a harsh item, but we are not discussing that sort of "bristle" brush here. We are taking about soft nylon hairs, such as may be found in synthetic brushes. So, now, on what basis do you state that soft nylon hairs can "damage" a plastic filter? I'm just tickled pink that you are here, saying these things. Please continue ... |
#15
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Jason P. wrote:
Although you make good points about this product... What points? It was just a rant; there was no substantiation of his claims. If I "encouraged" you to stick your foot into a wood chipper, would you do it? I would never recommend using compressed air in the chamber of a digital camera. Oh no! If you use an aerosol/compressed air it becomes very easy get liquid proplent on the CCD. The people who make these cans of air usually take the time to print a set of instructions on their sides. Have you read them? In addition to being told not to stick the nozzle into your ear, or allow young, impressionable children or otherwise clueless professional photographers unsupervised use, there is the important one: "Do not shake the can." To this I add, if it is not obvious: do not aim-and-blow. Instead, blow and bring the object into the flow. This serves the "do not shake" rule, as well as cleaning out the nozzle of whatever condensates that may have gathered there. I also usually recommend against using a brush of any kind... as the bristles can damage the extremely delicate filters that sit overtop of the sensor. http://www.tf.uni-kiel.de/matwis/ama...ed/t8_4_2.html Compare hardness of typical plastics and glass. Short of using the brush as a chisel, or brushing really hard knowing there is further (harder) crap on the surface, there is basically nothing to worry about. Best idea - a blower... which you can get for a few bucks from any camera store. It is essential to remove dangerous stuff from the surface -- things that can scratch it if dragged across pressure of a cleaning. But as a full sensor clean, it simply doesn't work. Next suggestion? |
#16
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Bart van der Wolf wrote:
"MeMe" wrote in message I think this is absolute hogwash! Nobody is forcing you to buy their brushes. They work as promised on my sensors. SNIP Guess which asshole spent $100 on a $2 brush? LOL! |
#17
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MeMe wrote:
Bart van der Wolf wrote: "MeMe" wrote in message I think this is absolute hogwash! Nobody is forcing you to buy their brushes. They work as promised on my sensors. SNIP Guess which asshole spent $100 on a $2 brush? LOL! And that would make someone who stuck a two dollar brush into a two thousand dollar camera a......? -- http://www.rupert.net/~solar Return address supplied by 'spammotel' http://www.spammotel.com |
#18
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In article ,
RichA wrote: On Wed, 09 Feb 2005 21:25:46 -0800, MeMe wrote: I see the most recommended treatment /du jour/ for the vexing "dust specks on sensor" with digital SLRs is a brush that is charged up by spraying it with compressed air. Problem is, the company selling these brushes is extorting money from people, IMO, by charging around $100 for an item with a manufacture cost of pennies. The photography market has always been rife with fraud. I once saw a darkroom faucet "adapter" that cost $50 and split one faucet output into two. Turns out, it was a hardware store hose splitter worth about $6.00. Even more rife with fraud is the high-end audiophile marketplace. There are companies charging several hundred US dollars *each* for wooden knobs for your preamp and amplifier, with the claim that the wood makes them *sound* better. :-) And the amazingly expensive power outlet strips, wall sockets, and plugs, which claim to affect the sound output (without bothering to replace all the wiring from the outlet back to the power transformer on the street with silver wire of heavier gauge, which might have a *tiny* effect on the sound, if only by providing more stable voltage, isolating it from the varying loads in the house (but still no protection from *external* variations. :-) And the magic crystals which simply have to be put somewhere between the amplifier and the speakers (not really *connected* to anything). When you pay enough (e.g. too much) for something, you are more willing to believe that it did something beneficial than to believe that you are a fool. :-) Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#19
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#20
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Ken Davey wrote:
MeMe wrote: Bart van der Wolf wrote: "MeMe" wrote in message I think this is absolute hogwash! Nobody is forcing you to buy their brushes. They work as promised on my sensors. SNIP Guess which asshole spent $100 on a $2 brush? LOL! And that would make someone who stuck a two dollar brush into a two thousand dollar camera a......? .... a smart guy, if he knows what he's doing. |
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