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Brush Development: Technique and Opinions??
Hi there, I was just wondering if anyone out there has any experience with developing 8x10 sheet film using brush development. Shuffling the big negs in trays has proven disasterous, and processing in a tube almost as bad. I have no problem with the extra time it takes to process one sheet at a time, but I'm hving a bad time finding a method that produces even reasonably even negs without scratches... I've heard that this type of development technique works quite well and just before I give it a try, I was wondering if anyone has any tips. I will be using Rollo Pyro as a developer if that makes any difference... Thanks for any help!! Take care all! Mark -- p |
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Mark Baylin wrote:
Hi there, I was just wondering if anyone out there has any experience with developing 8x10 sheet film using brush development. Shuffling the big negs in trays has proven disasterous, and processing in a tube almost as bad. I have no problem with the extra time it takes to process one sheet at a time, but I'm hving a bad time finding a method that produces even reasonably even negs without scratches... If you're going to do one neg at a time, now can you scratch it in a tray? -- Stacey |
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(Uranium Committee) wrote in message . com...
(Mark Baylin) wrote in message ... Hi there, I was just wondering if anyone out there has any experience with developing 8x10 sheet film using brush development. Shuffling the big negs in trays has proven disasterous, and processing in a tube almost as bad. I have no problem with the extra time it takes to process one sheet at a time, but I'm hving a bad time finding a method that produces even reasonably even negs without scratches... I've heard that this type of development technique works quite well and just before I give it a try, I was wondering if anyone has any tips. I will be using Rollo Pyro as a developer if that makes any difference... Thanks for any help!! Take care all! Mark HANGERS AND TANKS! Hey, Uranium. As Plutonium, you are a lesser isotope and need to listen to me. He didn't ask you! His question was specific. Your advise is not needed here. |
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Jorge;
Out of curiousity , what does it do that normal tray developing does not. In article , (Jorge Gasteazoro) wrote: I have been doing brush development for many years, I currently do 8x10 and 12x20. When done correctly ( and really there is not much you can mess up) it is one of the techniques that produces the most even negatives possible. It used to be the technique used by astronomers to develop glass plates. So here goes. Get a hake brush, these are camel hair brushes attached to a wodden handle by string and many times metal ferrules (dont worry if it is metal, the "no metal" warning with pyro is a myth, I have done it with PMK, Pyrocat and ABC). I use a 5 inch brush. Place the 8x10 film on an 8x10 tray with developer. Push the film all the way to the bottom with your left hand and with your right hand start brushing. I prefer to brush up and down so I place the tray vertically, but you can do it sidewise, or a mixture, whatever is more comfortable for you. The one absolute thing you have to watch out for, is that you brush with the SIDE of the bristles, not the tips, if you use the tips, you will scratch the negative. So in order to avoid this, make sure you start the brushing motion BEFORE the film edge and that you end the motion AFTER the opposite edge. If you do this you will have flawless negatives. -- LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918 |
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Gregory Blank wrote in message ...
Jorge; Out of curiousity , what does it do that normal tray developing does not. Just like everything in photography it has it's advantages and disadvantages. Specially now that we have rotary development. The advantage over tray developing is that you constantly replenish the developer in contact with the emulsion, so results are very close to those with rotatry development, with the advantage that you dont suffer from laminar flows, which in many cases cause the streaking with stainning developers in rotary and tray situations. Another advantage is that you never take the film out of the soup, once again diminishing the risk of getting streaking by oxidation of the developer, a common problem with stainning developers ( with some more than others, ABC is very suceptible to this, even with brush developing I was unable to obtain consistent results) You can use same size trays to develop the film, unlike tray film where you need double the size tray to avoid uneven developing, specially on the edges of the film. This might not seem to be a big consideration if you are doing 4x5, but move to 8x10 and larger sizes and all of the sudden you are wasting a lot of developer and space. If you are doing 8x10 and bigger, shuffling is not as easy, try shuffling 6 12x20 negatives on a 20x24 tray.... ;-) The disadvanatge is that you can only do one at at the time, and that is a lot of wasted time when you have 10 negatives. Frankly IMO I would not do this for 4x5, I would get the BTZS tubes, they produce just as good a result and with a little practice you can do 6 at the time. It is what I do now for my 8x10`s. I bought the containers used for storing welding rods, they are aweseom for tube developing, and they only cost like 8 or 10 bucks each. 12x20 I still do by brush, I cannot afford a Jobo, but I dont have more than 2 or 3 per developing session, so it is not a big deal. |
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In article ,
(Jorge Gasteazoro) wrote: Just like everything in photography it has it's advantages and disadvantages. Specially now that we have rotary development. The advantage over tray developing is that you constantly replenish the developer in contact with the emulsion, so results are very close to those with rotatry development, with the advantage that you dont suffer from laminar flows, which in many cases cause the streaking with stainning developers in rotary and tray situations. Another advantage is that you never take the film out of the soup, once again diminishing the risk of getting streaking by oxidation of the developer, a common problem with stainning developers ( with some more than others, ABC is very suceptible to this, even with brush developing I was unable to obtain consistent results) You can use same size trays to develop the film, unlike tray film where you need double the size tray to avoid uneven developing, specially on the edges of the film. This might not seem to be a big consideration if you are doing 4x5, but move to 8x10 and larger sizes and all of the sudden you are wasting a lot of developer and space. If you are doing 8x10 and bigger, shuffling is not as easy, try shuffling 6 12x20 negatives on a 20x24 tray.... ;-) The disadvanatge is that you can only do one at at the time, and that is a lot of wasted time when you have 10 negatives. Frankly IMO I would not do this for 4x5, I would get the BTZS tubes, they produce just as good a result and with a little practice you can do 6 at the time. It is what I do now for my 8x10`s. I bought the containers used for storing welding rods, they are aweseom for tube developing, and they only cost like 8 or 10 bucks each. 12x20 I still do by brush, I cannot afford a Jobo, but I dont have more than 2 or 3 per developing session, so it is not a big deal. Sounds interesting enough for me to give it a try, Thanks!! -- LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918 |
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