Berg Selenium Toner

I was recently given a bunch of photographic chemicals by someone who
was moving and the movers didn't want to move liquid chemicals. One
of the things that I got is an unopened bottle of Berg Selenium Toner
- but it has no instruction sheet with it. When I asked the former
owner, she said that she had never used it, and had no idea where the
instruction sheet was. Does anybody who uses this have a reccomended
dilution and a starting point for time?

Thanks

Mark

Mark in Maine wrote:

I was recently given a bunch of photographic chemicals by someone who
was moving and the movers didn't want to move liquid chemicals. One
of the things that I got is an unopened bottle of Berg Selenium Toner
- but it has no instruction sheet with it. When I asked the former
owner, she said that she had never used it, and had no idea where the
instruction sheet was. Does anybody who uses this have a reccomended
dilution and a starting point for time?

Thanks

Mark


Toner is toner. As long as it's a concentrate. Berg
is described as "classic" seleium toner.

Dilute 1:9 and tone prints for a minimum 3 minutes for
archival permamence. Kodak's recommendation is 1:20
but the Image Permanence Institute recommends 1:9.

Use constant agitation and avoid immersing your bare
hnads in it.

Mark in Maine wrote:

I was recently given a bunch of photographic chemicals by someone who
was moving and the movers didn't want to move liquid chemicals. One
of the things that I got is an unopened bottle of Berg Selenium Toner
- but it has no instruction sheet with it. When I asked the former
owner, she said that she had never used it, and had no idea where the
instruction sheet was. Does anybody who uses this have a reccomended
dilution and a starting point for time?

Thanks

Mark


Toner is toner. As long as it's a concentrate. Berg
is described as "classic" seleium toner.

Dilute 1:9 and tone prints for a minimum 3 minutes for
archival permamence. Kodak's recommendation is 1:20
but the Image Permanence Institute recommends 1:9.

Use constant agitation and avoid immersing your bare
hnads in it.

| Use constant agitation and avoid immersing your bare
| hnads in it.

Erm, Tom, did you happen to put your fingers in that soup too long..?
;-))

| Use constant agitation and avoid immersing your bare
| hnads in it.

Erm, Tom, did you happen to put your fingers in that soup too long..?
;-))

Jan T wrote:

| Use constant agitation and avoid immersing your bare
| hnads in it.

Erm, Tom, did you happen to put your fingers in that soup too long..?
;-))


Nope. Always either wear gloves or just rock the tray ;-)

But I know photographers who have for years. They did always
seem a bit out there...

Jan T wrote:

| Use constant agitation and avoid immersing your bare
| hnads in it.

Erm, Tom, did you happen to put your fingers in that soup too long..?
;-))


Nope. Always either wear gloves or just rock the tray ;-)

But I know photographers who have for years. They did always
seem a bit out there...

"Mark in Maine" wrote
in message
...
I was recently given a bunch of photographic chemicals by
someone who
was moving and the movers didn't want to move liquid
chemicals. One
of the things that I got is an unopened bottle of Berg
Selenium Toner
- but it has no instruction sheet with it. When I asked
the former
owner, she said that she had never used it, and had no
idea where the
instruction sheet was. Does anybody who uses this have a
reccomended
dilution and a starting point for time?

Thanks

Mark

Berg Selenium Toner appears to be very similar to Kodak
Rapid Selenium Toner. The toner can be diluted anywhere from
about 1 part toner to 3 parts water to about 1 part toner in
20 parts water. At 1:20 the toner will slightly intensify
the image but not cause much if any color change. As it is
diluted less it causes an increasing color change. For a
color change start at about 1:9. The rapidity of toning and
color will depend on the paper. Cold and neutral tone papers
will change color very little although they will be
intensified. Warm tone paper will tone from sepia to purple.
The developer also makes a difference in the final color.
Selenium toner at 1:20 was long recommended for
protecting images against oxidation. About fifteen years ago
the Image Permenence Institute of Rochester Institute of
Technology discovered that microfilm recently treated that
way was oxidizing. They determined that something had
changed in the in the Kodak toner so that it was no longer
protecting the low density parts of the image. IPI and
others now recommend a polysulfide type toner like Kodak
Brown Toner or Agfa Viradon for image protection. However,
Selenium toner will still give good image protection if
toning is carried out far enough. If there is a noticable
color change in all parts of the image the protection is
complete. However, the old method of using dilute KRST so
that there was minimal image change doesn't work. IPI states
that using 1:9 selenium for not less than 3 minutes, will
provide complete image protection but it also results in
some color and density change in most materials.
Selenium toner at between 1:9 and 1:3 is also effective
as an intensifier for film. It is relatively controlable and
the resulting intensified image is permanent.
Selenium toner can cause stains if the film or paper is
not fixed completely. In fact, a 1:9 solution of the toner
can be used instead of sodium sulfide as a test for
completeness of fixing.
Acid from acid fixers can sometimes cause an overall
stain by precipitating elemental Selenium onto the surface.
This effect is eliminated if the prints are first treated in
either a sulfite wash aid, like Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent,
or in a weak alkaline bath like 2% sodium carbonate or
sodium metaborate (Kodalk). Since the toner contains
Ammonium thiosulfate prints can be toned immediately after
fixing with out staining except for the possiblity of stains
from the acid (I have never observed this in practice).
Otherwise the prints should be treated in wash aid and well
washed before toning.
Selenium toner can be used on combination with a
polysulfide toner for varying color effects.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA

"Mark in Maine" wrote
in message
...
I was recently given a bunch of photographic chemicals by
someone who
was moving and the movers didn't want to move liquid
chemicals. One
of the things that I got is an unopened bottle of Berg
Selenium Toner
- but it has no instruction sheet with it. When I asked
the former
owner, she said that she had never used it, and had no
idea where the
instruction sheet was. Does anybody who uses this have a
reccomended
dilution and a starting point for time?

Thanks

Mark

Berg Selenium Toner appears to be very similar to Kodak
Rapid Selenium Toner. The toner can be diluted anywhere from
about 1 part toner to 3 parts water to about 1 part toner in
20 parts water. At 1:20 the toner will slightly intensify
the image but not cause much if any color change. As it is
diluted less it causes an increasing color change. For a
color change start at about 1:9. The rapidity of toning and
color will depend on the paper. Cold and neutral tone papers
will change color very little although they will be
intensified. Warm tone paper will tone from sepia to purple.
The developer also makes a difference in the final color.
Selenium toner at 1:20 was long recommended for
protecting images against oxidation. About fifteen years ago
the Image Permenence Institute of Rochester Institute of
Technology discovered that microfilm recently treated that
way was oxidizing. They determined that something had
changed in the in the Kodak toner so that it was no longer
protecting the low density parts of the image. IPI and
others now recommend a polysulfide type toner like Kodak
Brown Toner or Agfa Viradon for image protection. However,
Selenium toner will still give good image protection if
toning is carried out far enough. If there is a noticable
color change in all parts of the image the protection is
complete. However, the old method of using dilute KRST so
that there was minimal image change doesn't work. IPI states
that using 1:9 selenium for not less than 3 minutes, will
provide complete image protection but it also results in
some color and density change in most materials.
Selenium toner at between 1:9 and 1:3 is also effective
as an intensifier for film. It is relatively controlable and
the resulting intensified image is permanent.
Selenium toner can cause stains if the film or paper is
not fixed completely. In fact, a 1:9 solution of the toner
can be used instead of sodium sulfide as a test for
completeness of fixing.
Acid from acid fixers can sometimes cause an overall
stain by precipitating elemental Selenium onto the surface.
This effect is eliminated if the prints are first treated in
either a sulfite wash aid, like Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent,
or in a weak alkaline bath like 2% sodium carbonate or
sodium metaborate (Kodalk). Since the toner contains
Ammonium thiosulfate prints can be toned immediately after
fixing with out staining except for the possiblity of stains
from the acid (I have never observed this in practice).
Otherwise the prints should be treated in wash aid and well
washed before toning.
Selenium toner can be used on combination with a
polysulfide toner for varying color effects.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA