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Agfa 120 brownton print developer; which time to follow?
Here is the formula I used:
STOCK SOLUTION Water (125°F/52°C) 750 ml Sodium sulfite 60 g Hydroquinone 24 g Potassium carbonate 80 g Water to make 1000 ml Here is the exposure and dilution details Tone Desired Exposure Time Dilution Time at 68°F/20°C Warm-black Normal 1:5 4-5 minutes Brown-black 1½ x normal 1:4 3 minutes ~ If I use this developer, I wouldn't know the 'normal' exposure, as of course, I would base the exposure on the developer in use at hand, which is Agfa 120 developer. My problem is the development time. My darkroom, though airconditioned, can't keep the developer at 20 deg C. It always rises to 25 deg C. Have you used Agfa 120 developer at 25 deg C, or above 25 deg C? What is your developing time? What puzzles me is whether I should follow the developing time indicated by the developer, or the developing time indicated by the paper. I use Forte FB, and it is resistant to fogging. In fact, I can develop it in 30 degC. without any problems. Here is the Forte recommended time: 20 deg C 90-120 seconds 25 deg C 60-90 seconds 30 deg C 45-60 seconds So, which developing time should I follow? I will experiment, but I hope to hear suggestions here also. -- Message posted via http://www.photokb.com |
#2
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Agfa 120 brownton print developer; which time to follow?
Sorry, I don't like making typo errors. I can read them, but I am o.c. not
to make them. So, anyway, the title of this thread should be: Agfa 120 browntone print developer; which time to follow? BrowntonE with an E. Sorry. ~ Since no one has replied to the thread, may be people here don't use that developer. Just as added information, here is an update of my chemical mixing project: Agfa 120- - I dilute this solution, Agfa 120, at 1:3 as a working solution. I like the tones, sort of warmer than 1:5, and with good patience working with split filters, I get delicious highlights, midtones, and shadows; yes, 'delicious'. I dilute at 1:3 for the warmth and shorter developing time. At 25degC, developing time is 120secs./2minutes; then I decrease by 5 seconds for every degree higher(example, at 27 degC, 110secs.) The working solution stays in the tray between 12-15 hours. I prefer looong printing sessions than short ones. I suppose you can still push it for 18 hours, with some allowance for a bit of weakening. Before it gets brown black exhausted, I used it, and it gave me a CONTRASTY , very very contrasty print, which should not have been the result. Then an hour after that, it went brown black- -exhausted. -- Message posted via http://www.photokb.com |
#3
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Agfa 120 brownton print developer; which time to follow?
"Shakti V. via PhotoKB.com" u15922@uwe wrote in message news:67f14eedd5d7e@uwe... Since no one has replied to the thread, may be people here don't use that developer. It doesn`t seem that Paterson Aculux 2 fine-Grain developer is particularly popular here, either. (Sigh!). |
#4
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Agfa 120 brownton print developer; which time to follow?
"Mono-tech_Ag" wrote in message ... "Shakti V. via PhotoKB.com" u15922@uwe wrote in message news:67f14eedd5d7e@uwe... Since no one has replied to the thread, may be people here don't use that developer. It doesn`t seem that Paterson Aculux 2 fine-Grain developer is particularly popular here, either. (Sigh!). I've never heard of Agfa 120 brownprint dev, is that similar to Agfa WA warmtone dev? I use that with my warmtone papers such as Ilford and Forte Where does one buy Agfa 120 brownprint from? Nice to know there are lots more darkroom workers out there Lofty |
#5
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Agfa 120 brownton print developer; which time to follow?
On Wed, 18 Oct 2006 22:15:42 +0100, "lofty"
wrote: Where does one buy Agfa 120 brownprint from? Nice to know there are lots more darkroom workers out there October 19, 2006, from Lloyd Erlick, Over the eons many manufacturers in photography have come and gone. Some of them published the formulas for various products. Agfa published many developer formulas, for which they thoughtfully provided numbers. Agfa 120 is a print developer containing a single developing agent, hydroquinone. Agfa 120 is reputed to yield warm image tone. As the years passed and corporate changes came and went, the formula numbers became a little scrambled and hard to follow. Agfa became involved with Ansco, which also published a lot of numbered formulas. So some confusion exists — e.g., Ansco 120 and Agfa 120. There were times when they were two separate companies and times when they were one outfit. (Sometimes the nomenclature will be 'Ansco-Agfa' or 'Agfa-Ansco', just to confuse it more.) In any case, the published formulas are no source of profit to any of the manufacturers any more, so no support exists. Agfa and Ansco don't exist, either. Even Kodak is brushing off anything to do with black and white print making. But as long as plain bulk chemicals still exist, many interesting developers can be made easily and cheaply by the individual darkroom worker. I'm glad there are plenty of us left, too! Richard Knoppow neatly solved the nomenclature problem by adding the word 'old' to certain formula names. Here is the formula he posted in this newsgroup for Agfa 120, a Hydroquinone-only warm tone print developer: Old Agfa 120 Brown Black Developer Water 1.0 liter Hydroquinone 24.0 grams Sodium sulfite, anhydrous 60.0 grams Potassium Carbonate 80.0 grams Potassium bromide 2.0 grams Directions are to dilute from 1 to 2 to 1 to 8 for different papers. Personally, I prefer to mix a print developer straight to a working solution. I don't like to store bottles of liquid concentrate. I find the much more dilute working solution quick and easy to prepare in most cases. I don't want to worry about how the developer changes in storage. For the above formula, which may be diluted over such a wide range, I'd find out which one suits me best and simply weigh out the chemicals needed for that working solution when I wanted to use it. I've actually used the above formula to make prints. I never really got used to it, though. I did not use it often enough. Recently I ran out of Metol, which somehow prompted me to try other developing agents. For some reason I seem to gravitate to print developers that contain only a single developing agent, and I've just finished off 250 grams of Glycin. I have a ten year old container of Hydroquinone I think I might get into. I like warm tone prints, and supposedly Hydroquinone is good for that. Incidentally, in photography there is a bit of confusion over nomenclature for dilution. The Agfa 120 formula above specifies a rather broad range of dilution for the concentrate, so dilution nomenclature is important. Normal chemists' practice is to use the colon to denote a ratio, for example 1:3. In chemistry, the second number represents the *total* amount or volume of the *solution*, so the first number would represent one-third of the total. It would mean one part diluted until the total (perhaps 'final' would be a better word) volume came to three parts. In darkroom circles, thanks to the kind folks at Kodak many moons ago, the second number has come to mean the amount or volume of water added to dilute the first. Thus, 1:3 would mean a total of four parts, of which the first number represents one-quarter. Ilford at least clarified, if not solved, the problem by replacing the colon with a plus-sign, e.g., 1+3. This denotes one part concentrate plus three parts water for four parts of solution in total. Darkroom work always follows this Idiot's Guide nomenclature, unless, perhaps, a chemist is working in the darkroom... regards, --le ________________________________ Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto. website: www.heylloyd.com telephone: 416-686-0326 email: ________________________________ -- |
#6
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Agfa 120 brownton print developer; which time to follow?
Hydroquinone-only warm tone print developer:
Old Agfa 120 Brown Black Developer Water 1.0 liter Hydroquinone 24.0 grams Sodium sulfite, anhydrous 60.0 grams Potassium Carbonate 80.0 grams Potassium bromide 2.0 grams Directions are to dilute from 1 to 2 to 1 to 8 for different papers. Hey, Lloyd. You always give long informative answers. That's good. About the 1:3 dispute, yeah, I figured out that darkroom photography means 1+3 when it's instructed 1:3. About the formula above, I've read that the addition of potassium bromide into the solution will just make it warmer, but the downside to that is there will be a bit of more time for developing as potassium bromide is also an anti-fogging agent, and hence is a restrainer. I've read in another forum a different version of the Agfa 120 formula, and this guy who posted it claimed that he has a book of Agfa's published formulae. The formula he posted didn't even have hyrdroquinone in it, just metol, but the name was Agfa 120. And there are those that say the addition of potassium bromide into the formula I originally posted will make the solution Agfa 123. So much confusion! But at least we have these formulae, so even if manufacturers discontinue making these developers, we can still concoct them in our darkroom kitchen as long as raw chemicals are sold. ~ I've posted above that the formula I use, Agfa 120, can stay in tray for 12- 15 hours, and supposed that you can PROBABLY push it to 18 hours. Well, I tried pushing it to 18 hours, but by the 15th hour, there is considerable weakening already, before it reaches the 18th hour, it's way too exhausted already. ~ I don't store working solution developer because it shortens the keeping time. I keep it concentrated in storage for longer chemical life. -- Message posted via PhotoKB.com http://www.photokb.com/Uwe/Forums.as...kroom/200610/1 |
#7
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Agfa 120 brownton print developer; which time to follow?
lofty wrote:
I've never heard of Agfa 120 brownprint dev, is that similar to Agfa WA warmtone dev? I use that with my warmtone papers such as Ilford and Forte Where does one buy Agfa 120 brownprint from? Nice to know there are lots more darkroom workers out there Lofty I've never used Agfa WA. It's a desert here when it comes to black and white photography supplies, so I mix most of my chemicals now from scratch. I don't mind as I'm a 'geek' that way. :O I like learning to mix my chemicals, and have a hands-on involvement with the elements that I use, as much as possible. It's more loving to create photographs that way. -- +Shakti V. Message posted via PhotoKB.com http://www.photokb.com/Uwe/Forums.as...kroom/200610/1 |
#8
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Agfa 120 brownton print developer; which time to follow?
lofty wrote:
I've never heard of Agfa 120 brownprint dev, is that similar to Agfa WA warmtone dev? I use that with my warmtone papers such as Ilford and Forte Where does one buy Agfa 120 brownprint from? Nice to know there are lots more darkroom workers out there Lofty I've never used Agfa WA. It's a desert here when it comes to black and white photography supplies, so I mix most of my chemicals now from scratch. I don't mind as I'm a 'geek' that way. :O I like learning to mix my chemicals, and have a hands-on involvement with the elements that I use, as much as possible. It's more loving to create photographs that way. -- +Shakti V. Message posted via http://www.photokb.com |
#9
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Agfa 120 brownton print developer; which time to follow?
On Fri, 20 Oct 2006 06:23:30 GMT, "Shakti V. via PhotoKB.com"
u15922@uwe wrote: bout the formula above, I've read that the addition of potassium bromide into the solution will just make it warmer, but the downside to that is there will be a bit of more time for developing as potassium bromide is also an anti-fogging agent, and hence is a restrainer. I've read in another forum a different version of the Agfa 120 formula, and this guy who posted it claimed that he has a book of Agfa's published formulae. Then he needs a new book. Agfa 120 Water @ 125F 750ml Hydroquinone 24g Sod. Sulfite (annhy.) 60g Pot. Carbonate 80g Water to make 1.0L == John S. Douglas Photographer & Webmaster Legacy-photo.com - Xs750.net |
#10
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Agfa 120 brownton print developer; which time to follow?
On Fri, 20 Oct 2006 06:08:07 -0500, John
wrote: Then he needs a new book. October 20, 2006, from Lloyd Erlick, If it contains Metol as the only developing agent, someone along the information chain might have meant Ansco 120. I think of this developer as 'D-23 for prints'. But it could easily be called Agfa-Ansco 120, or Ansco-Agfa 120, so the mistaken name Agfa 120 might appear. It just compounds the sadness of the situation that an actual Agfa 120 exists ... I wish we could rename it. Agfa 123 sounds great, easy to remember, and it's virtually certain any actual user would put some amount of Potassium Bromide in it. regards, --le ________________________________ Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto. website: www.heylloyd.com telephone: 416-686-0326 email: ________________________________ -- |
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