what accesory do i need for this flashlight

Recently, Steven Woody posted:

On Mar 22, 2:01 am, "Neil Gould" wrote:

Steven asked:
2, in additional to using a long cord, is there any other solution?
you know, sometimes using a long cord is not very convenient. so i
am imaging that is there a small device which can attached on my
Rolleiflex's PC port and trigger ( wirelessly ) a remote receiver
which is connected to my Metz 45 CL-1? is there such an accesory?

Such items do exist... I use them with my studio lighting. But, you
may be faced with the problem that the Metz needs a special
connector to use the receiver.

but, you know, i've already have a CL-1 cord, one end of which is a
standard PC connector, so i am thinking there may be a standard
receiver which can be connected to the PC cord. i am just not sure if
i am right and what's the name of this kind of receiver. another
problem is the trigger, which should be connected to the PC connector
of my Rolleiflex.

Since you already have a CL-1 cord with a PC connector, all you need is an
extension PC cord. Those are rather common and you shouldn't have trouble
finding one. As for radio triggers, there are a variety available, and you
can find some on ebay located in Hong Kong:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Remote-Control-U...QQcmdZViewItem

Regards,

Neil

Steven Woody wrote:
On 3ÔÂ21ÈÕ, ÏÂÎç8ʱ17·Ö, "Neil Gould"
wrote:
Recently, Steven Woody posted:

hi,

i am about to put my Metz CL-1 flashlight away from my Rolleiflex
3.5 camera, just in the halfway to the subject. so the PC cord
are too short to use. i think i can buy a slave and have it
connected to the Metz CL-1, but what i need to trigger the slave?
i don't want to buy another flashlight and in some cases i only
want single sorce of light.

If I understand your question correctly, there are flashes that
have built-in slave triggers (some Metz models, for example). You
could also buy a slave trigger, which is a sensor that attaches to
the hot shoe of the slave flash. The last time I bought one of
those it cost around $15 US.

Regards,

Neil

sorry, i dont get the point. i just want sth. to trigger the metz
CL-1, and i hope it is not a flashlight. is there anything such as a
dedicated trigger?

There is such a thing as a longer cord if all you want to do is move
your speedlight at some distance to camera. They even come with
male/female Compur ends. Get one...

--�

dadiOH
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Steven Woody wrote:



but, you know, i've already have a CL-1 cord, one end of which is a
standard PC connector, so i am thinking there may be a standard
receiver which can be connected to the PC cord. i am just not sure if
i am right and what's the name of this kind of receiver. another
problem is the trigger, which should be connected to the PC connector
of my Rolleiflex.

What confuses me is that if the CL-1 is a basic computer flash with one
manual setting, no TTL, why does the flash end of the cable have so many
connections? What are they for? Surely only two pins are required?

Pete

--
http://www.petezilla.co.uk

On Mar 23, 9:00 am, Peter Chant wrote:
Steven Woody wrote:

but, you know, i've already have a CL-1 cord, one end of which is a
standard PC connector, so i am thinking there may be a standard
receiver which can be connected to the PC cord. i am just not sure if
i am right and what's the name of this kind of receiver. another
problem is the trigger, which should be connected to the PC connector
of my Rolleiflex.

What confuses me is that if the CL-1 is a basic computer flash with one
manual setting, no TTL, why does the flash end of the cable have so many
connections? What are they for? Surely only two pins are required?

Pete

--http://www.petezilla.co.uk

i guess, those extra pins are designed to support other kinds of
connector which can support many kinds of cameras and i know some of
them even support TTL.

-
woody

Steven Woody wrote:

i guess, those extra pins are designed to support other kinds of
connector which can support many kinds of cameras and i know some of
them even support TTL.

? I was sure the CL-1 did not support TTL. Got any more info? Googling
indicated it is not TTL, or has any features other than computer and manual
modes.


Pete

--
http://www.petezilla.co.uk

On Mar 24, 1:25 am, Peter Chant wrote:
Steven Woody wrote:
i guess, those extra pins are designed to support other kinds of
connector which can support many kinds of cameras and i know some of
them even support TTL.

? I was sure the CL-1 did not support TTL. Got any more info? Googling
indicated it is not TTL, or has any features other than computer and manual
modes.

Pete

--http://www.petezilla.co.uk

mybe it supports to be used with an external module, which then
connects to a TTL camera. in it's manual, i remembered that it said,
the flashlight can be someway connected to a camera with automatica
flash control. i am not sure if this means exactly TTL, but i think,
TTL to a flashlight is nothing other than it can be cut off by an
external signal, is it?

Steven Woody wrote:


mybe it supports to be used with an external module, which then
connects to a TTL camera. in it's manual, i remembered that it said,
the flashlight can be someway connected to a camera with automatica
flash control. i am not sure if this means exactly TTL, but i think,
TTL to a flashlight is nothing other than it can be cut off by an
external signal, is it?

Web search indicates that it does not have any connections to the Metz SCA
module system or any other.

Actually electronically it should be simpler to do simple TTL than a
computer flash as on Pentax there is a pin that gives a signal when the
correct exposure has been acheived, all the flash gun need do is quench,
simpler than having its own photocell.

--
http://www.petezilla.co.uk

re #2: to filter out the visible light from your trigger
flash and pass just the infra-red you can use a couple of
pieces of E-6 Ektachrome film as a very good visible light
cut off filter, the film should have been processed but
unexposed (you get a few inches of suitable film at the tail
end of every processed roll of Ektachrome).

re #3: a radio trigger is actually two pieces, a
transmitter that attaches to the synch connection on your
camera and a receiver that attaches to your flash unit.

darkroommike

Steven Woody wrote:
On 3ÔÂ22ÈÕ, ÏÂÎç10ʱ26·Ö, darkroommike wrote:
Woody, I see three ways to trigger your Metz flash:

1. Long extension flash cord, this would have a male PC-tip
on one end and a female PC-tip on the other. The setup
would then be: cameraextension cordMetz cordflash. Not
very technical but cheap extension cords fail frequently and
you have three places where the flash connection can
disconnect (usually at the worst moment).

2. Use a optical slave connected to the flash and a small
flash unit on camera to trigger it. The small flash does
not need to be pointed at the subject (I bounce mine
straight up) but the small amount of fill light it affords
when pointing at the subject is occasionally useful.
Vivitar used to make an IR emitting trigger flash but you
could rig on of your own using a couple of pieces of dark
blank processed Ektachrome to filter out the visible light
from your trigger flash, most slaves are sensitive to IR
unless they have blue filtration on them one brand does use
a blue filter since they were so sensitive to IR that police
car strobing lights would trigger them.

3. Use a radio trigger, there are both cheap, short range
units and more expensive multi-channel long range systems
(one brand is Pocket Wizard or something like that).

BTW the 45-CT1 and the 45-CL1 use different flash cords.
And the CT1 has a much higher trigger voltage.

darkroommike


darkroommike,

thank you very much, you answer are so helpful. in the solution 2, i
don't know what's the 'darkblank processed Ektachrome', can you
explain it? and, in the solution 3, if i understand correctly, does
you mean the radio triiger won't fire light as an optical flash does?

On 4ÔÂ2ÈÕ, ÉÏÎç3ʱ31·Ö, darkroommike wrote:
re #2: to filter out the visible light from your trigger
flash and pass just the infra-red you can use a couple of
pieces of E-6 Ektachrome film as a very good visible light
cut off filter, the film should have been processed but
unexposed (you get a few inches of suitable film at the tail
end of every processed roll of Ektachrome).


thank you. can i instead use normal E-6 Kodachome films such as Fuji
RDP, Kodak's E100VS, e.t.c ?

re #3: a radio trigger is actually two pieces, a
transmitter that attaches to the synch connection on your
camera and a receiver that attaches to your flash unit.


okay, i understand.

-
woody

YES, unexposed, processed E-6 film, does not have to be
Ektachrome infrared. Kodachrome is not process E-6.
darkroommike

Steven Woody wrote:
On 4ÔÂ2ÈÕ, ÉÏÎç3ʱ31·Ö, darkroommike wrote:
re #2: to filter out the visible light from your trigger
flash and pass just the infra-red you can use a couple of
pieces of E-6 Ektachrome film as a very good visible light
cut off filter, the film should have been processed but
unexposed (you get a few inches of suitable film at the tail
end of every processed roll of Ektachrome).


thank you. can i instead use normal E-6 Kodachome films such as Fuji
RDP, Kodak's E100VS, e.t.c ?

re #3: a radio trigger is actually two pieces, a
transmitter that attaches to the synch connection on your
camera and a receiver that attaches to your flash unit.


okay, i understand.

-
woody