Medium format slide mounting

Christopher Woodhouse wrote:

I am going retro. I want to blow away the digital projector brigade.

You can do that with 35mm easily.


It seems that the
only glass available is AN glass. Will that affect the sharpness?



Not if it's on the correct side of the slide, the lamp side. That's the way
I mount them, makes them easy to clean later on.

--

Stacey

I am going retro. I want to blow away the digital projector brigade. I have
found an MF projector but what is the conventional wisdom on mounting 6x6
slides. Do I go glassless or glass sandwich? My projector is not AF, but it
only has a 150W bulb and doesn't seem that hot. It seems that the only glass
available is AN glass. Will that affect the sharpness?

Chris Woodhouse

I find that on anything bigger than instamatic i.e. 28x28, glass is necessary.
The film buckles otherwise and can get stuck in the projector, not to mention
the film flatness issue. Have you thought about using superslides i.e.
4cmX4cm? They'll work in a standard 35mm projector.

Christopher Woodhouse wrote:

I am going retro. I want to blow away the digital projector brigade. I have
found an MF projector but what is the conventional wisdom on mounting 6x6
slides. Do I go glassless or glass sandwich? My projector is not AF, but it
only has a 150W bulb and doesn't seem that hot. It seems that the only glass
available is AN glass. Will that affect the sharpness?

Chris Woodhouse

"Christopher Woodhouse" wrote in message
.. .
I am going retro. I want to blow away the digital projector brigade. I
have
found an MF projector but what is the conventional wisdom on mounting 6x6
slides. Do I go glassless or glass sandwich? My projector is not AF, but
it
only has a 150W bulb and doesn't seem that hot. It seems that the only
glass
available is AN glass. Will that affect the sharpness?

Chris Woodhouse


As others have indicated, glass-mounting is essential for MF. AN glass does
not have any obvious effect on sharpness. The mounting process with MF is
fairly time-consuming.

Autofocus should not be required with a quality MF projector. If the device
is well engineered, glass-mounted slides will enter the gate with such
precision that perfect focus is assured.

150 watt bulb might be a bit on the low side, but that is doubtless
determined by the projector.

MF projectors can give stunning results.

--
Alan Law

I am going retro. I want to blow away the digital projector brigade. I have
found an MF projector but what is the conventional wisdom on mounting 6x6
slides. Do I go glassless or glass sandwich? My projector is not AF, but it
only has a 150W bulb and doesn't seem that hot. It seems that the only glass
available is AN glass. Will that affect the sharpness?

Chris Woodhouse BRBR


chris,

I also have a super exotic Rollei MF projector with the zoom optics
(Vario-Heidosmat 3.5 110-160mm lens) and chose slide mounts based upon the
particular slide that I have. Some don't need the glass and some do. The
biggest ISSUE with the glass mounts (even with 'anti-Newton glass) is still
Newton's rings if I am scanning that mounted transparency in my 8000ED. So,--I
much prefer the glassless, if you can get away with it. Also, without glass,
the film can 'breathe' better and you run much less of a risk in damp climates
(the UK??) of bacteria growing between the emulsion and the glass...

Dan Lindsay
Santa Barbara (the DRY land)

"EDGY01" wrote:

I also have a super exotic Rollei MF projector with the zoom optics
(Vario-Heidosmat 3.5 110-160mm lens) and chose slide mounts based upon the
particular slide that I have. Some don't need the glass and some do. The
biggest ISSUE with the glass mounts (even with 'anti-Newton glass) is
still
Newton's rings if I am scanning that mounted transparency in my 8000ED.
So,--I
much prefer the glassless, if you can get away with it. Also, without
glass,
the film can 'breathe' better and you run much less of a risk in damp
climates
(the UK??) of bacteria growing between the emulsion and the glass...

How much of a problem is bacteria and mold on carelessly stored film?

This really belongs in the archive thread, but my intuition is that film is
far more volatile stuff than people think.

David J. Littleboy
Tokyo, Japan

the easy solution is to shoot seconds, that is, duplicate shots in the
camera (which is cheaper than getting dupe shots made, or doing them
yourself). Now you can project one, and retain an original for making
copies. Similarly, most of us don't send out original images, but seconds
or slide dupes, which can be very good if done with the proper film and
setup (bowens..). For digital scans, the file original can be used if
desired...

my $.02 ;-)
bobm
--
************************************************** *********************
* Robert Monaghan POB 752182 Southern Methodist Univ. Dallas Tx 75275 *
********************Standard Disclaimers Apply*************************