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#1
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raw files are HUGE
On Mar 11, 8:04 am, "Sameer" wrote: On Mar 10, 8:49 pm, C J Campbell wrote: On 2007-03-03 18:16:40 -0800, "Sameer" said: I tried winzip and winrar but they cant compress them much. Is there anything else which works? They can't be compressed much. Nikon offers a 'compressed' RAW format in-camera. I can't tell the difference from the non-compressed one. They are the same size. Besides, you really don't want to do anything that might modify an original RAW file. That is why I decided not to use DNG files just to save space. I was talking to a friend about this and he said that most cameras use very weak compression due to speed and better algorithms can do better, upto even 40%. I hope some company releases a tool which can do this. |
#2
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raw files are HUGE
"Sameer" schreef in bericht ups.com... On Mar 11, 8:04 am, "Sameer" wrote: On Mar 10, 8:49 pm, C J Campbell wrote: On 2007-03-03 18:16:40 -0800, "Sameer" said: I tried winzip and winrar but they cant compress them much. Is there anything else which works? They can't be compressed much. Nikon offers a 'compressed' RAW format in-camera. I can't tell the difference from the non-compressed one. They are the same size. Besides, you really don't want to do anything that might modify an original RAW file. That is why I decided not to use DNG files just to save space. I was talking to a friend about this and he said that most cameras use very weak compression due to speed and better algorithms can do better, upto even 40%. There are probably better algorithms, but using the in camera processor and given that you want the battery to last and have a fast camera, there are limitations with the algorithm. It's fantastic what they can do in a camera, but it's not unlikely that a PC processor, which is not 'limited' in power consumption and size can do better, specially when given the time for the compression. Compression can be better, but not within the given constraints of the camera. But as I am surprised what the in camera processor can deliver now. I'll probably will be surprised again in a few years time. ben I hope some company releases a tool which can do this. |
#3
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raw files are HUGE
In article . com,
"Sameer" wrote: On Mar 10, 8:49 pm, C J Campbell wrote: On 2007-03-03 18:16:40 -0800, "Sameer" said: I tried winzip and winrar but they cant compress them much. Is there anything else which works? They can't be compressed much. Nikon offers a 'compressed' RAW format in-camera. I can't tell the difference from the non-compressed one. They are the same size. Besides, you really don't want to do anything that might modify an original RAW file. That is why I decided not to use DNG files just to save space. The most common solution is to get an external firewire drive to store your photos. Avoid USB due to the slower transfer rate. Once you compress the picture you can not get the pixels back. Once you work on a RAW picture you can not recover any data unless you "start over" Store your RAW files on your ext drive and put them on a DVD or CD too. You can never (well almost never) have to many backups. If you want another layer of backup, give a copy to a friend to hold for you. This is called "off-site storage". You might think about a reciprocal agreement to hold his-her backups. -- Grow old disgracefully and enjoy yourself Bob Central CA |
#5
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raw files are HUGE
On Sun, 08 Apr 2007 20:53:50 +0000, The Bobert wrote:
In article . com, "Sameer" wrote: On Mar 10, 8:49 pm, C J Campbell wrote: On 2007-03-03 18:16:40 -0800, "Sameer" said: I tried winzip and winrar but they cant compress them much. Is there anything else which works? They can't be compressed much. Nikon offers a 'compressed' RAW format in-camera. I can't tell the difference from the non-compressed one. They are the same size. Besides, you really don't want to do anything that might modify an original RAW file. That is why I decided not to use DNG files just to save space. The most common solution is to get an external firewire drive to store your photos. Avoid USB due to the slower transfer rate. Once you compress the picture you can not get the pixels back. That is not quite true. There is 'lossless' compression and there is 'lossy' compression. If a file is compress using a lossless algorithm then decompression will return you the EXACT same file you started with - not a bit will have changed. You may have difficulty with the concept - let me use a simple example fro run lenght encoding - if you have a string of 500 bytes which are identical you don't loose anything by storing two or three bytes of information which essentially say "we've go 500 bytes of 0x01100110". Once you work on a RAW picture you can not recover any data unless you "start over" I'm not aware of any, but there is no reason in the world that image processing could not implement a 'journal' of changes which would allow the orignal image to be retrieved - but, in practice, I guess you're right. Store your RAW files on your ext drive and put them on a DVD or CD too. You can never (well almost never) have to many backups. If you want another layer of backup, give a copy to a friend to hold for you. This is called "off-site storage". You might think about a reciprocal agreement to hold his-her backups. |
#6
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raw files are HUGE
"Sameer" wrote in message
ups.com... On Mar 11, 8:04 am, "Sameer" wrote: On Mar 10, 8:49 pm, C J Campbell wrote: On 2007-03-03 18:16:40 -0800, "Sameer" said: I tried winzip and winrar but they cant compress them much. Is there anything else which works? They can't be compressed much. Nikon offers a 'compressed' RAW format in-camera. I can't tell the difference from the non-compressed one. They are the same size. Besides, you really don't want to do anything that might modify an original RAW file. That is why I decided not to use DNG files just to save space. I was talking to a friend about this and he said that most cameras use very weak compression due to speed and better algorithms can do better, upto even 40%. I hope some company releases a tool which can do this. With my Pentax K10D it doesn't compress the DNG files. If I run them through Adobe's DNG converter I can cut the file size in half. I can get a 25% increase by converting the PEF Raw files to DNG with compression. I would imagine with the exception of JPG which should be quite fast as it is lossy that lossless compression can be very resource hungry and slow as well. Though RAW files are worth every K. =(8) |
#7
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raw files are HUGE
Alfred Molon wrote:
In article , ow says... The most common solution is to get an external firewire drive to store your photos. Avoid USB due to the slower transfer rate. How much faster is a Firewire drive compared to a USB2 drive? I would avoid firewire because it's not as widely supported and the most common firewire spec is only something like 15-20% faster IIRC. |
#8
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raw files are HUGE
On Apr 8, 12:55 pm, "ben brugman" wrote:
"Sameer" schreef in oglegroups.com... On Mar 11, 8:04 am, "Sameer" wrote: On Mar 10, 8:49 pm, C J Campbell wrote: On 2007-03-03 18:16:40 -0800, "Sameer" said: I tried winzip and winrar but they cant compress them much. Is there anything else which works? They can't be compressed much. Nikon offers a 'compressed' RAW format in-camera. I can't tell the difference from the non-compressed one. They are the same size. Besides, you really don't want to do anything that might modify an original RAW file. That is why I decided not to use DNG files just to save space. I was talking to a friend about this and he said that most cameras use very weak compression due to speed and better algorithms can do better, upto even 40%. There are probably better algorithms, but using the in camera processor and given that you want the battery to last and have a fast camera, there are limitations with the algorithm. It's fantastic what they can do in a camera, but it's not unlikely that a PC processor, which is not 'limited' in power consumption and size can do better, specially when given the time for the compression. Compression can be better, but not within the given constraints of the camera. But as I am surprised what the in camera processor can deliver now. I'll probably will be surprised again in a few years time. In camera limitations are understandable, but if a desktop tool can do better I will happily shell out 20-30 bucks for another 30-40% compression. I hope I am not the only one willing to pay for this. |
#9
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raw files are HUGE
On Apr 8, 8:11 pm, "=\(8\)" wrote: "Sameer" wrote in message ups.com... On Mar 11, 8:04 am, "Sameer" wrote: On Mar 10, 8:49 pm, C J Campbell wrote: On 2007-03-03 18:16:40 -0800, "Sameer" said: I tried winzip and winrar but they cant compress them much. Is there anything else which works? They can't be compressed much. Nikon offers a 'compressed' RAW format in-camera. I can't tell the difference from the non-compressed one. They are the same size. Besides, you really don't want to do anything that might modify an original RAW file. That is why I decided not to use DNG files just to save space. I was talking to a friend about this and he said that most cameras use very weak compression due to speed and better algorithms can do better, upto even 40%. I hope some company releases a tool which can do this. With my Pentax K10D it doesn't compress the DNG files. If I run them through Adobe's DNG converter I can cut the file size in half. I tried DNG, it saves around 10% for me but I can't convert back to original file. I was worried about lost data. I can get a 25% increase by converting the PEF Raw files to DNG with compression. You mean they become bigger? |
#10
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raw files are HUGE
On Apr 8, 11:07 pm, ray wrote:
On Sun, 08 Apr 2007 20:53:50 +0000, The Bobert wrote: [snip] Once you work on a RAW picture you can not recover any data unless you "start over" I'm not aware of any, but there is no reason in the world that image processing could not implement a 'journal' of changes which would allow the orignal image to be retrieved - but, in practice, I guess you're right. [snip] What is the problem here? Non-destructive editing of raw files is normal - it is normally easy enough to go back to the raw converter and make just a few changes to the raw converter editing already done. With care, the new conversion can then replace the previous one in (say) Photoshop processing to avoid redoing everything. Either the raw file can be a smart object, or you can just copy the new version across as an image layer and existing adjustment layers will work. Or if you use smart filters, having copied the new image layer across, you can transfer the previous filter settings to the new image layer. -- Barry Pearson http://www.barrypearson.co.uk/photography/ |
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