I just got me second medium format camera!! (Eeek!)

Sabineellen wrote:

print my own 35mm films, all of this equipment can be used for medium
format so long as I get a new lens for my enlarger.

How much does it cost you and how long would it take you to process a film (no
prints)? Is it only black and white or color too? I'm thinking about getting an
epson 4870 scanner and processing my film then scanning it.

I think about the same step (going hybrid for color).

So I've done some math:

You need:

B/W:
Developing tank (from ebay: $15(?))

Color:
I would suggest a processor like the Jobo CPE or CPA or similar.
It's possible without but with this items selling cheap on ebay...
It makes things a lot easier if you don't have to care about temperature
or agitation. Just look at your watch and change chemicals at the right
time.

Time:

B/W: Depends on your film/developer combination. Some films need only
7min to develop, other need 18min. + 5min fix +5 min water --
less than 30min + time to dry (hours when just let dry, 5min when used
a film-dryer like the Jobo Mistral)

Color:

C41:
Process time is about 15min + dry.

E6
Process time about 30min + dry.

Costs:
B/W: Just cents. ID11 is about $4 1liter ($8 5liter) and will develop 10 (50)
rolls of film. Fixer is cheap (Kodak: $6 for 1 gallon) and will last lots of
films.

Color:
C41: Tetenal C41 2 Bath Kit 5liter $60, will develop 60-80Films.
E6: Tetenal E6 3 Bath Kit 5liter $80, will develop about 60 Films.

(1 liter kits are availiable but are much more expensive/film)

Chris.

"Christian Kolinski" wrote:

Time:

B/W: Depends on your film/developer combination. Some films need only
7min to develop, other need 18min. + 5min fix +5 min water --
less than 30min + time to dry (hours when just let dry, 5min when used
a film-dryer like the Jobo Mistral)

Costs:
B/W: Just cents. ID11 is about $4 1liter ($8 5liter) and will develop 10
(50)
rolls of film. Fixer is cheap (Kodak: $6 for 1 gallon) and will last lots
of
films.

You'll find that you spend a lot more time and money than you are
estimating. Set up time, load tank time, lost time, cleanup time. Time to
truck to the store and buy chemicals (it seems there's always one that's
just run out). Time to negotiate with your significant other when you can
use the sink. Time to recover from the nervous exhaustion of watching a
timer like a hawk to control agitation precisely.

The reason to process your own B&W is not to save time or money (it really
doesn't, take my word for it) but because you can do better than a lab can.
Because you can use fine-grain developers, because you can use
accutance-enhancing developers, because you can control the
contrast/speed/grain trade off for your needs.

And don't forget to buy a copy of Anchell and Troop "The Film Development
Cookbook".

David J. Littleboy
Tokyo, Japan

David J. Littleboy wrote:

"Christian Kolinski" wrote:

Time:

B/W: Depends on your film/developer combination. Some films need only
7min to develop, other need 18min. + 5min fix +5 min water --
less than 30min + time to dry (hours when just let dry, 5min when used
a film-dryer like the Jobo Mistral)

Costs:
B/W: Just cents. ID11 is about $4 1liter ($8 5liter) and will develop 10
(50)
rolls of film. Fixer is cheap (Kodak: $6 for 1 gallon) and will last lots
of
films.

You'll find that you spend a lot more time and money than you are
estimating.

Agree on the time but not on the money. I'm doing B/W about 3 years now.
Developing is cheap.

Set up time, load tank time, lost time, cleanup time.

Yes. There has to be a huge pile of time somewhere in my darkroom.
Just can't find it anymore.

Time to
truck to the store and buy chemicals (it seems there's always one that's
just run out).

There 2x500ml Rodinal sitting on the shelf. This will not run out.
Not in this century.

Time to negotiate with your significant other when you can
use the sink.

Single ;-) And the luxury of haveing a spare room in my parents house
I can use as a darkroom.

Time to recover from the nervous exhaustion of watching a
timer like a hawk to control agitation precisely.

Thats why I spend the 70Eur and got a Jobo CPE2 off ebay.
Just change chemicals when the timer beeps.

The reason to process your own B&W is not to save time or money (it really
doesn't, take my word for it) but because you can do better than a lab can.

100% ACK.
And it's fun.
Sometimes.

And if you do processing only (scan or slide) it's realy cheaper
than sending your film away. Or does your lab develop E6 for 1Eur?
Push and pull without extra cost.

Chris.

David J. Littleboy wrote:


You'll find that you spend a lot more time and money than you are
estimating. Set up time, load tank time, lost time, cleanup time. Time to
truck to the store and buy chemicals (it seems there's always one that's
just run out). Time to negotiate with your significant other when you can
use the sink. Time to recover from the nervous exhaustion of watching a
timer like a hawk to control agitation precisely.


A lot of this is a matter of the equipment you use and what you enjoy. I
read the paper while the drum rotates. I mail order most of my chemicals so
the mail man delivers-)


The reason to process your own B&W is not to save time or money (it really
doesn't, take my word for it) but because you can do better than a lab can.


Well it does save money but ya do it for the quality. The money issue is
secondary.

Nick

the 645 meters are build in a prism finder. There are 2 variations:
1: the PD finder which is just a meter with arowed leds pointing you
in the "correct" direction for exposure
2: the AE finder which includes aperture preselect automatic exposure.

I have both and, sorry to say, I hardly ever use them. I prefer the
WLF at all times for better view. You will get used to the wrong sided
movement in no time but its the same for the Yashica anyway.
I find the 645 with prism finder very awkward to handle on eye level.
If you should decide t get one, invest in one of the grips as well, L
bracket on the left or the P at the bottom. Both have a simple
mechanism that actually presses the release on the front on the body.

The sekonic you mention in one of the other messages is a reasonable
choice. If ebay doesnt deliver one, maybe search for a Gossen Lunasix
or Profisix.

have fun
Jack


I actually didn't realise the 645J didn't have a light meter, so it
looks like its going to be one of the first items I get for the camera.
I have read about people taking readings with their 35mm TTL meter,
then using those settings on their other cameras - does that really
work?? I need to get something through the camera ASAP to make sure
that everything works OK.

Thanks,

Andrew McCall

People should learn to use www.google.com the groups page to search stuff
before buying. If he did not know that now he knows.


"Wise Ass Poaster" wrote in message
...
In article . net,
"Art" wrote:

Next time do your research first. You paid a bit too much for a nice
camera
that is missing several features that you might need. Check posts from
earlier in the week for details.

Me thinks "Art" is too damn lazy to offer any real help.

"Paul Friday" wrote in message
...
In message , Andrew McCall
writes
Does the lack of a 3/8 inch tripod socket mean I can't connect it to a
tripod at all, or just one with a 3/8 inch mount?

The 3/8" is the older Continental size. Just about all tripods now use
1/4" threads.


Paul Friday

And usually the 3/8" socket will have a 1/4" insert in it.

In article et,
"Mike" wrote:

"Paul Friday" wrote in message
...

The 3/8" is the older Continental size. Just about all tripods now use
1/4" threads.
Paul Friday

And usually the 3/8" socket will have a 1/4" insert in it.

Unless its a "Ries" then you have a seperate little assembly that
replaces one threaded bolt size for the other. I carry both.

Paul Friday wrote:

In message , Andrew McCall
writes
Does the lack of a 3/8 inch tripod socket mean I can't connect it to a
tripod at all, or just one with a 3/8 inch mount?

The 3/8" is the older Continental size. Just about all tripods now use
1/4" threads.

1/4" is used in 35mm and smaller cameras. Bigger cameras use 3/8",
because they are heavier. Lately also some MF cameras have employed it,
probably because they are made of lighter materials. Usually they are
intended for amateur use. Most pro gear still uses 3/8".

-- Lassi

Andrew,

My two cents: I had the Yashicamat 124G for a short time. I found the normal
lens too limiting. It was plenty sharp however, and the leaf shutter in the
lens is also helpful in reducing vibration.

The Mamiya 645 which I have now is compact and expandable. I believe the
lenses are sharper and more contrastier than the Yashicamat, but the mirror
movement and focal plane shutter do introduce more vibration. More care is
required when handholding at shutter speeds below 1/60th of a second. A
stronger tripod is also required, especially when shooting verticals.

Dan

When I started reading over this thread I had almost convinced myself
that I could keep both, but I know I need to sell the Yashicamat to get
a light meter

If I really like the Mamiya, and get a need for 6x6 I might take a look
at the C330 in the future.

Thanks,

Andrew McCall