Reducing Negative Contrast

I develop TRI-X in D76. I rate the film at about 280. I would like to reduce
the contrast but maintain detail in the negative. I have attempted to
accomplish this by deluting the developer and extending the devilopement time.
Is apporach sound and I should just contiune further delutions or am I barking
up the wrong tree?

Alan Tippett

1. Exposure determines shadow density of the negative (transparent areas).

2. Development time determines highlight density of the negative (dark areas).

2. The difference between the two determines contrast.

4. Since the modern practice is to use minimum shadow density, the only way to
adjust contrast is to change the highlight density.

5. Reducing development time reduces highlight density and will therefore reduce
contrast. Increasing development time will increase contrast.

6. If you chose to ignore item 4 above increasing exposure without changing
developing time will also reduce contrast, but will result in a denser grainier
negative.

BTW, diluting the developer and extending the time results in the same level of
development, but you do tend to get higher edge definition. You can dilute the
developer, or reduce the time, to reduce the contrast of the negative.

--

ATIPPETT wrote:
I develop TRI-X in D76. I rate the film at about 280. I would like to reduce
the contrast but maintain detail in the negative. I have attempted to
accomplish this by deluting the developer and extending the devilopement time.
Is apporach sound and I should just contiune further delutions or am I barking
up the wrong tree?

Alan Tippett

"ATIPPETT" wrote in message
...
I develop TRI-X in D76. I rate the film at about 280. I would like to
reduce
the contrast but maintain detail in the negative. I have attempted to
accomplish this by deluting the developer and extending the devilopement
time.
Is apporach sound and I should just contiune further delutions or am I
barking
up the wrong tree?

Alan Tippett


Negative contrast is a function of development time. To reduce contrast, cut
your development time. Diluting the developer usually has the same effect of
cutting development time (assuming the development time remains the same).

ATIPPETT wrote:

I develop TRI-X in D76. I rate the film at about 280. I would like to reduce
the contrast but maintain detail in the negative. I have attempted to
accomplish this by deluting the developer and extending the devilopement time.
Is apporach sound and I should just contiune further delutions or am I barking
up the wrong tree?

Alan Tippett

With the dilution you're using now, try reducing agitation (say, every
three minutes instead of every minute); this may require extending
development somewhat, but should allow you pretty fine control of
contrast by small alterations in time combined with alterations in
agitation. Generally, less agitation gives lower overall contrast,
without (much, if any) loss of shadow detail.

--
I may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz!
-- E. J. Fudd, 1954

Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer
Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm
Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm

Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth
and don't expect them to be perfect.

"ATIPPETT" wrote in message
...
I develop TRI-X in D76. I rate the film at about 280. I
would like to reduce
the contrast but maintain detail in the negative. I have
attempted to
accomplish this by deluting the developer and extending
the devilopement time.
Is apporach sound and I should just contiune further
delutions or am I barking
up the wrong tree?

Alan Tippett

Contrast is a function of development time, overall
density a function of exposure. However, lowering
development time may also require an increase in exposure to
keep the minimum density from falling off the toe.

Diluting developer allows lengthening the development
time so can be useful for reducing contrast where the time
gets too short. For other than machine processing a time of
around 8 or 10 minutes is desirable to insure uniform and
controlable development.
For most films a change of one paper grade will be gotten
by adjusting the time + or - about 30%, for shaped crystal
films like T-Max the same change in contrst may take only a
20% change in time. The change in effective EI from "normal"
contrast will be about 3/4 stop.

What sort of subject are you shooting and how do you
print?

Subject: Reducing Negative Contrast
From: ojunk (ATIPPETT)
Date: 7/17/2004 11:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id:

I develop TRI-X in D76. I rate the film at about 280. I would like to
reduce
the contrast but maintain detail in the negative.

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Your approach should be contingent upon the film format your using, and the
type of enlarger you plan to use. If your using 35mm I would try a low contrast
developer like D23 and stick with minimum development. If your shooting 645 or
better you may try Rodinal at various dillutions.
In 6x7 TX loves Rodinal.

1+25 for low contrast

1+50 for medium contrast

1+ 100 for high contrast

or you can reduce your film rating (as you have) and also reduce your
development time. Before you may do this you must first establish a personal
iso for your camera, lens, developer, and development of the films you like
most.

If you shoot People, use an electronic flash utilizing syncro-sunlight
techniques, to even out the contrast.

Right now, I have to establish a new personal EI for the new 400TX. I shot a
couple of rolls last week and the neg's are too thin for my taste. Oh well here
I go again, my testing usually takes about 5-8 rolls of film and several hours.

Regards.

Bob McCarthy

Subject: Reducing Negative Contrast
From: ojunk (ATIPPETT)
Date: 7/17/2004 11:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id:

I develop TRI-X in D76. I rate the film at about 280. I would like to
reduce
the contrast but maintain detail in the negative.

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Your approach should be contingent upon the film format your using, and the
type of enlarger you plan to use. If your using 35mm I would try a low contrast
developer like D23 and stick with minimum development. If your shooting 645 or
better you may try Rodinal at various dillutions.
In 6x7 TX loves Rodinal.

1+25 for low contrast

1+50 for medium contrast

1+ 100 for high contrast

or you can reduce your film rating (as you have) and also reduce your
development time. Before you may do this you must first establish a personal
iso for your camera, lens, developer, and development of the films you like
most.

If you shoot People, use an electronic flash utilizing syncro-sunlight
techniques, to even out the contrast.

Right now, I have to establish a new personal EI for the new 400TX. I shot a
couple of rolls last week and the neg's are too thin for my taste. Oh well here
I go again, my testing usually takes about 5-8 rolls of film and several hours.

Regards.

Bob McCarthy

On Sat, 17 Jul 2004 11:54:57 -0400, Tom tom@localhost
wrote:

....
6. If you chose to ignore item 4 above increasing exposure without changing
developing time will also reduce contrast, but will result in a denser grainier
negative.
....

jul2204 from Lloyd Erlick,

This is actually a very interesting option. I have had
occasion to print negatives from my past, which I caused to
be quite exceptionally dense. The prints were very
beautiful; tonality was very, very attractive. They were
fairly easy to print, too, once the correct exposure range
was found. I had no complaints with the grain, either. I'm
sure it was measurably larger, but I don't think anyone
would choose not to make a print on that account. The film
was Tri-X.

There used to be a writer named Pery C. Yob who advocated
negatives like this. I tried his advice and liked the
prints. I'd call it a legitimate, specialized technique for
use when one wants the particular tonality, and reduced
contrast. It's nice for portraits, sometimes. I've only
printed these negs on warm tone, FB materials.

regards,
--le
________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
voice: 416-686-0326
email:
net: www.heylloyd.com
________________________________

On Sat, 17 Jul 2004 11:54:57 -0400, Tom tom@localhost
wrote:

....
6. If you chose to ignore item 4 above increasing exposure without changing
developing time will also reduce contrast, but will result in a denser grainier
negative.
....

jul2204 from Lloyd Erlick,

This is actually a very interesting option. I have had
occasion to print negatives from my past, which I caused to
be quite exceptionally dense. The prints were very
beautiful; tonality was very, very attractive. They were
fairly easy to print, too, once the correct exposure range
was found. I had no complaints with the grain, either. I'm
sure it was measurably larger, but I don't think anyone
would choose not to make a print on that account. The film
was Tri-X.

There used to be a writer named Pery C. Yob who advocated
negatives like this. I tried his advice and liked the
prints. I'd call it a legitimate, specialized technique for
use when one wants the particular tonality, and reduced
contrast. It's nice for portraits, sometimes. I've only
printed these negs on warm tone, FB materials.

regards,
--le
________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
voice: 416-686-0326
email:
net: www.heylloyd.com
________________________________