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#1
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Developing tubes
In a previous thread, Don Qualls wrote:
FWIW, if you can operate a hand saw and power drill, you can make developing tubes with daylight fill and drain. I did it, and they work great for the Fomapan 100 from my plate cameras... May I ask if Don has any plans or reference on how the tubes are made? I wouldn't mind trying to knock a few up and give them a try. I'm currently stalking a set of tanks and hangers while using a HP Combiplan set for developing. best argon |
#2
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Argon3 wrote:
In a previous thread, Don Qualls wrote: FWIW, if you can operate a hand saw and power drill, you can make developing tubes with daylight fill and drain. I did it, and they work great for the Fomapan 100 from my plate cameras... May I ask if Don has any plans or reference on how the tubes are made? I wouldn't mind trying to knock a few up and give them a try. I'm currently stalking a set of tanks and hangers while using a HP Combiplan set for developing. I haven't yet gotten around to uploading a web page showing these tubes -- they're pretty simple, though. For 9x12 cm or 4x5, you need 1.5" ABS "cellular core" tube, cut to either 3 1/2" length (for 9x12) or 5" length (for 4x5), two caps (at least one the type with an internal space past the bottom of the gluing socket), and materials for making a light trap in the cap with space inside. My light trap consists of a piece of gray PVC pipe (white isn't, IMO, opaque enough to prevent oblique rays from getting past the baffle with a single reflection, which could cause fogging), a cap that fits that pipe (to provide liquid retention for inversion), and a piece of black ABS sheet thick enough to be opaque (I used 1/8" because 3/32" didn't seem quite opaque, to my eye) and cut to fit past the gluing socket with clearances for pouring liquid. Light that enters down the PVC filling tube must reflect at least twice (from the black ABS sheet and from the inside of the cap) to reach the film; use of textured ABS sheet and the matte finish on the inside of the cap keep such reflections diffuse enough to prevent fogging even with prolonged exposure. | | | | | | +------| |------+ | _______________ | | | | | View above in a fixed width font, please. The PVC filler tube is secured to the ABS cap with "transition cement" made specifically for joining PVC pipe to ABS pipe; this is covered with black ABS cement to provide additional light security. The same black ABS cement is used to fix the light baffle inside the cap. I don't glue any of the caps to the pipe, though, other than the filling tube in the drilled hole; it's nice to be able to take the unit completely apart for cleaning, and makes it easy to load, too. Dead simple, cost about $5 each for the fitting parts and segment of pipe (you have to buy at least five, probably ten feet of each size pipe, though). Made to minimum size for 9x12 cm, they hold six ounces; same for 4x5 ought to hold about 8 ounces, which makes them wonderful for high dilutions or developer that can be reused or replenished. If you want or need to economize, you could make a liquid tight core of some sort that would attach to the inside of the light baffle and take up volume, possibly getting capacity per tube as low as 2 ounces for 4x5, which is the same volume per film area as stainless steel 35 mm tanks. Additional versatility point -- with a 1.5" ABS pipe coupler, you can join two lengths of the pipe and develop two sheets with a single filler and base cap set, though I don't recommend going longer than that. It's nice, though, for ensuring that two sheets (for a comparison test, perhaps) get identical development. With more effort and parts, one could make a nice simulation of the Jobo Expert tanks -- bad news is, 4" appears to be the biggest common size of ABS pipe and fittings, which will only accomodate three 1.5" tubes (with clearance for their caps). Good news is, with doubled tubes using couplers, as above, that would let you develop six sheets with about 24 ounces of liquid for 9x12, or 32 ounces in 4x5, with inversion; probably much less if built to accomodate roll agitation. One could go bigger, but doing so would require fabricating the upper part of the tank from sheet, which seems likely to be prone to leakage of both liguid and light. Minor point -- try to get real PVC pipe for the filler tube; I used a prethreaded nipple, and found the injection molded part was sufficiently out of round away from the threads that one of my three tubes leaks significantly when inverted; the cap for the PVC should push on tightly enough to require a twist to get it off, what's referred to as "interference" fit, and if so, it will be liquid tight. This design is based on the one I cribbed for my 16 mm cored developing tank, which uses two ounces of liquid to process two feet of 16 mm film; that, in turn, is slightly modified from one I found on the web (but I lost my bookmarks recently, so I'd have to suggest a Google search or a look around submini.org to find the page with that design -- it was for Minox format film, which should help your Googling). -- I may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz! -- E. J. Fudd, 1954 Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth and don't expect them to be perfect. |
#3
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I'll hook you up with the full BTZS 4x5 package (6 tubes with tray and
instructions) for $100. In perfect "as new" condition and includes shipping! I have a Jobo Expert Drum and CPP 2 processor so no longer use the tubes but they work great!! J Burke "Argon3" wrote in message ... In a previous thread, Don Qualls wrote: FWIW, if you can operate a hand saw and power drill, you can make developing tubes with daylight fill and drain. I did it, and they work great for the Fomapan 100 from my plate cameras... May I ask if Don has any plans or reference on how the tubes are made? I wouldn't mind trying to knock a few up and give them a try. I'm currently stalking a set of tanks and hangers while using a HP Combiplan set for developing. best argon |
#5
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Jos. Burke wrote:
I'll hook you up with the full BTZS 4x5 package (6 tubes with tray and instructions) for $100. In perfect "as new" condition and includes shipping! I have a Jobo Expert Drum and CPP 2 processor so no longer use the tubes but they work great!! Important consideration with BTZS -- they are *not* daylight fill and drain; they have to be filled in the dark and capped before the lights are turned on. You can make ABS tubes that work that way by simply cutting the pipe to length, smoothing (as you would also do, to prevent film scratching), and proceeding as if you own BTZS tubes. That would cost about $3.50 to $4 per tube, assuming you make enough to use the full length of pipe. Throw in an 11x14 print tray ($7 or so new, IIRC), and you have a similar set for under $40. Load the tubes, push on the "bottom" cap, stand tubes on end (bundle together with rubber bands if desired, though that might make it hard to get the caps on after filling), fill with developer, and turn on the lights as you give the first agitations. When ready to drain the dev, turn off the lights; turn 'em back on after the fixer has been in for a minute or after capping with fixer in the tanks. Roll agitation is not, IMO, superior to inversion for this type of tank, and though it might allow use of less liquid per tube, there's also a danger of uneven development due to the time required to fill, cap, and start agitation. I prefer the daylight fill model, since I a) don't have a full darkroom (yet), and b) find it hard to pour developer accurately in the dark. Yes, it's more work to make -- but you only have to do that work once. Filling BTZS tubes in the dark will have to be done every time you use them, for as long as you have them. BTW, fill and drain time for my tubes, using 1/2" PVC pipe for the fill tube, is on the order of five seconds; the limitation is more in how fast I can pour from my (very, very cheap) graduates without spilling than in how fast liquid will flow in or out of the tube past the light baffle. Oh, I might mention, too, if you use larger film than 4x5, you can do up to 5x7 inch (or 13x18 cm) in 2" pipe, 8x10 inch in 3", and 4" pipe will take film (or prints, if you like) up to 12x20", though that size tank will require a lot of liquid and will be quite heavy when full if you don't make a core for it. -- I may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz! -- E. J. Fudd, 1954 Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth and don't expect them to be perfect. |
#6
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Donald Qualls wrote in message .com...
Jos. Burke wrote: I'll hook you up with the full BTZS 4x5 package (6 tubes with tray and instructions) for $100. In perfect "as new" condition and includes shipping! I have a Jobo Expert Drum and CPP 2 processor so no longer use the tubes but they work great!! Filling BTZS tubes in the dark will have to be done every time you use them, for as long as you have them. BTW, fill and drain time for my tubes, using 1/2" PVC pipe for the fill tube, is on the order of five seconds; the limitation is more in how fast I can pour from my (very, very cheap) graduates without spilling than in how fast liquid will flow in or out of the tube past the light baffle. -- I may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz! -- E. J. Fudd, 1954 Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth and don't expect them to be perfect. Donald, buddy, have you thought of filling the cap BEFORE you turn off the lights and then load the film and close the tube in the dark? It is what I do, I have a set up where the caps are held on a piece of wood with the film containers standing behind them, I fill the caps with developer, I turn off the lights, load all the films in the container, screw into the cap with developer and then turn on the lights. With the lights on I dip the tubes in the water bath at one minute intervals, I can do 6 8x10s this way. |
#7
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Filling BTZS tubes in the dark will have to be done every time you use
them, for as long as you have them. Wrong on two counts. First, you don't fill the tubes, you fill the caps. Second, you fill the caps in the light, not in the dark. You can proceed from there either of two ways depending on whether you have one or two caps per tube but either way the caps are filled with developer in the light. I can't imagine why anyone would fill the caps in the dark. "Jorge Gasteazoro" wrote in message om... Donald Qualls wrote in message .com... Jos. Burke wrote: I'll hook you up with the full BTZS 4x5 package (6 tubes with tray and instructions) for $100. In perfect "as new" condition and includes shipping! I have a Jobo Expert Drum and CPP 2 processor so no longer use the tubes but they work great!! Filling BTZS tubes in the dark will have to be done every time you use them, for as long as you have them. BTW, fill and drain time for my tubes, using 1/2" PVC pipe for the fill tube, is on the order of five seconds; the limitation is more in how fast I can pour from my (very, very cheap) graduates without spilling than in how fast liquid will flow in or out of the tube past the light baffle. -- I may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz! -- E. J. Fudd, 1954 Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth and don't expect them to be perfect. Donald, buddy, have you thought of filling the cap BEFORE you turn off the lights and then load the film and close the tube in the dark? It is what I do, I have a set up where the caps are held on a piece of wood with the film containers standing behind them, I fill the caps with developer, I turn off the lights, load all the films in the container, screw into the cap with developer and then turn on the lights. With the lights on I dip the tubes in the water bath at one minute intervals, I can do 6 8x10s this way. |
#8
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Shelley wrote:
Filling BTZS tubes in the dark will have to be done every time you use them, for as long as you have them. Wrong on two counts. First, you don't fill the tubes, you fill the caps. Second, you fill the caps in the light, not in the dark. You can proceed from there either of two ways depending on whether you have one or two caps per tube but either way the caps are filled with developer in the light. I can't imagine why anyone would fill the caps in the dark. snip previous thread content Donald, buddy, have you thought of filling the cap BEFORE you turn off the lights and then load the film and close the tube in the dark? It is what I do, I have a set up where the caps are held on a piece of wood with the film containers standing behind them, I fill the caps with developer, I turn off the lights, load all the films in the container, screw into the cap with developer and then turn on the lights. With the lights on I dip the tubes in the water bath at one minute intervals, I can do 6 8x10s this way. You're right, that hadn't occurred to me -- probably because I load my tubes in a changing bag; I don't (yet) have a genuine darkroom, or even a room with running water that I can make dark (like a bathroom). The house I just moved into has huge windows in both bathrooms, and since my wife insists on curtains, a simple cover for the inside isn't easy to arrange. I still prefer daylight fill, at least as an option. I can do the BTZS method with my existing tubes with little (and cheap) modification, if I choose, and you can't use BTZS tubes with enough liquid to (for instance) stand develop without filling them in the dark come stop bath time; stand and semi-stand are options I like to have. -- I may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz! -- E. J. Fudd, 1954 Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth and don't expect them to be perfect. |
#9
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Donald Qualls wrote in message .com...
Shelley wrote: You're right, that hadn't occurred to me -- probably because I load my tubes in a changing bag; I don't (yet) have a genuine darkroom, or even a room with running water that I can make dark (like a bathroom). The house I just moved into has huge windows in both bathrooms, and since my wife insists on curtains, a simple cover for the inside isn't easy to arrange. I still prefer daylight fill, at least as an option. I can do the BTZS method with my existing tubes with little (and cheap) modification, if I choose, and you can't use BTZS tubes with enough liquid to (for instance) stand develop without filling them in the dark come stop bath time; stand and semi-stand are options I like to have. -- I may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz! -- E. J. Fudd, 1954 Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth and don't expect them to be perfect. Ah Donald, you unbeleiver...:-)) You can fill the longer container in the light and then just load the film if you have a stand to hold the containers. Is what I do when I want to do this too...of course the welding rod tubes are longer than the film, this might be a spilling problem with the 4x5 tubes made by the VC store. OTOH, I dont think anybody is saying your idea is bad, just not practical for those of us with 10 thumbs...:-)) |
#10
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Jorge Gasteazoro wrote:
Ah Donald, you unbeleiver...:-)) You can fill the longer container in the light and then just load the film if you have a stand to hold the containers. Is what I do when I want to do this too...of course the welding rod tubes are longer than the film, this might be a spilling problem with the 4x5 tubes made by the VC store. OTOH, I dont think anybody is saying your idea is bad, just not practical for those of us with 10 thumbs...:-)) Hmm. Okay, maybe it would work for stand development -- if I'm reading this right, you're suggesting filling the tube(s) with dev, then turning off the light and individually putting the film sheets into the full tubes. I see that, including getting the film out of the holders, as likely to put ten or fifteen minutes between the first sheet and the last going into the soup. Probably still okay if your dev time is at least ninety minutes... And still completely impractical if you load in a changing bag. Thanks, but no liquids in my bag, please... We all use the methods that fit our needs and abilities. I don't find it at all hard to fabricate these tubes (the hardest part was cutting the ABS sheet, because my bandsaw was in storage at the time), but doing the necessary carpentry and whatnot to make a bathroom into a darkroom takes me months of preparation, not to mention costing my hobby budget for most of those months (yep, that means buying no film for quite some time -- not a good thing). If, OTOH, you have a genuine darkroom, but don't trust yourself with a saw or power drill, then by all means stick with BTZS or welding rod tubes. -- I may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz! -- E. J. Fudd, 1954 Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth and don't expect them to be perfect. |
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