CANON 300D ?

Rob wrote:
just got one and hope to do some studio portraits, should i set the
parameters to number 2 as 1 seems too saturated and is there anything else
that needs setting to give better shots.
thanks

For a portrait, you ought to be shooting a RAW file, in which case parameters
are irrelevant.

---Bob Gross---

Robertwgross wrote:

For a portrait, you ought to be shooting a RAW file, in which case
parameters are irrelevant.

Why for a protrait?
I would think that a studio set up is very controllable (e.g. re.
light). So one should get predictable results. I agree that you have
more possibilites to adjust later when you are shooting raw, but that's
always the case.

Regards
Thomas

Robertwgross wrote:

For a portrait, you ought to be shooting a RAW file, in which case
parameters are irrelevant.

Why for a protrait?
I would think that a studio set up is very controllable (e.g. re.
light). So one should get predictable results. I agree that you have
more possibilites to adjust later when you are shooting raw, but that's
always the case.

Regards
Thomas

"Robertwgross" wrote in message
...
Rob wrote:

For a portrait, you ought to be shooting a RAW file, in which case
parameters
are irrelevant.


Oh ********

just got one and hope to do some studio portraits, should i set the
parameters to number 2 as 1 seems too saturated and is there anything else
that needs setting to give better shots.
thanks
Rob.

On Thu, 15 Jul 2004 19:30:09 GMT, "Your-nice" wrote:

just got one and hope to do some studio portraits, should i set the
parameters to number 2 as 1 seems too saturated and is there anything else
that needs setting to give better shots.
thanks
Rob.


I recommed RAW format. Use the histogram to check the exposure on a test shot or
two, and exposure comp. You will probably wind up at -1 stop. With RAW you can
afford slight under exposure to guarantee absolutely agains saturation which
IMHO is the absolute greatest of all evils with this kind of work. I also
recommend the 50/1.8 lens as excellent for portraits.

In message ,
Jim Townsend wrote:

The consensus has been to leave all the controls in the middle
position and edit color, contrast, sharpness etc, after the fact.

Many feel that with the right actions, programs like Photoshop
can do a better job than the camera's firmware.

The in-camera contrast level for JPEG is very important. If you need
what it does, and are shooting JPEG, then you should set it in-camera.
Lowering this value can preserve more highlights without darkening the
midtones and shadows (as would happen with negative exposure
compensation).
--


John P Sheehy

In message ,
Jim Townsend wrote:

The consensus has been to leave all the controls in the middle
position and edit color, contrast, sharpness etc, after the fact.

Many feel that with the right actions, programs like Photoshop
can do a better job than the camera's firmware.

The in-camera contrast level for JPEG is very important. If you need
what it does, and are shooting JPEG, then you should set it in-camera.
Lowering this value can preserve more highlights without darkening the
midtones and shadows (as would happen with negative exposure
compensation).
--


John P Sheehy

In article , George
Preddy wrote:

If you are shooting protraits for hire using JPEG, you ought to
reconsider your career choice. Why would you rip people off
intentionally and for no reason by actually choosing a highly
compressed, automatically processed, set WB, only 8-bit format, which
can't even be edited and resaved without doing even more damage?

You finally said something truthful for a change.

Plus as many have already alluded to, the low dynamic range 10D/300D
absolutely will blow highlights in a well lit setting, so you'll need
to shoot with some -EV set and pump the exposure back up during RAW
conversion (resulting in a noise increase, BTW).

There you go, back into bull**** mode.

"George Preddy" wrote in message
om...
SNIP
Plus as many have already alluded to, the low dynamic range 10D/300D
absolutely will blow highlights in a well lit setting,...
SNIP

You are mistaking your lack of capabilities with a 10D, with what
others can achieve with it.

Bart