If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Using old b&w films (60')
Hi!
My grandfather gave me a box full of old b&w films. Most of them are labeled "develop befor 1968". They aren't used (exposed). I tried one of these "1968". It has got 40 ASA. I took some pictures as if it was an normal film and tried to develop it. I used Rodinal diluted 1:40 with normal times. The result was only dark (nothing could be seen on the film). Today I tried one "almost new" film. With expiration date april 1981. In some pictures I was able to recognize things I photographed. Direct light could be seen very well with excelent contrast. Other things are very light and almost invisible. But the film is not dark as the previous one. Now it is light. I used Rodinal again with standard times. Do you know how to expose and develop these films? Should I set my camera to lower sensitivity for the expose time to be longer? Or should I use longer developing times? Except Rodinal I could use MQ (metholhydrochinone) or PQ (phenidolhydrochinone) developer... M.V.C. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Using old b&w films (60')
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Using old b&w films (60')
"Martin V. Cera" wrote in message om... Hi! My grandfather gave me a box full of old b&w films. Most of them are labeled "develop befor 1968". They aren't used (exposed). I tried one of these "1968". It has got 40 ASA. I took some pictures as if it was an normal film and tried to develop it. I used Rodinal diluted 1:40 with normal times. The result was only dark (nothing could be seen on the film). Today I tried one "almost new" film. With expiration date april 1981. In some pictures I was able to recognize things I photographed. Direct light could be seen very well with excelent contrast. Other things are very light and almost invisible. But the film is not dark as the previous one. Now it is light. I used Rodinal again with standard times. Do you know how to expose and develop these films? Should I set my camera to lower sensitivity for the expose time to be longer? Or should I use longer developing times? Except Rodinal I could use MQ (metholhydrochinone) or PQ (phenidolhydrochinone) developer... M.V.C. The film is probably fogged. Fogging depends mostly on how the film was stored. High heat is very bad. If film is stored at low temperatures or even frozen, it will stay good for many years but exposure to heat will accelerate the chemical processes that lead to fog. The way the emulsion is made is also important. when the emulsion is mixed chemicals are added to suppress the changes whick lead to fogging with time. Different manufacturers have different procedures for this, some more successful than others. Some films will stay relatively good for twenty years, some for not much longer than the expiration date. The use of an anti-fog in the developer will help but will substantailly reduce speed. If the developed film comes out black its probably beyond saving. If you know the make and type of the film (it should be written on the boxes or on the leaders) the old information can be looked up as to recommended developers and times. 1968 film is "modern" film in the sense that it should have good stability. However, given that the expiration date is probably two or more years after the date of manufacture, this film is getting toward being forty years old, even people begin to get foggy at that age. -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Using old b&w films (60')
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Using old b&w films (60')
"Michael Scarpitti" wrote in message om... Expiration dates are given to film for a reason. Throw the film out or keep it as colectables! Don't use it for photography. It's old and bad. It isn't always a waste of time to try outdated film. A friend bought a 4x5 kit at an auction four or five years ago. Included was a pile of seriously expired film. He shot and developed a sheet of Ilford FP3 that expired in 1963. Surprisingly, the negative turned out very well - it was quite printable. I suspect there was a little more base fog than normal but I couldn't detect it visually. The film likely was frozen and if it was it will be usable. Now, on the other hand, if it was stored at room temperature it's likely dead, and if it was stored somewhere that gets hot, it will certainly be dead. Film needs cool to cold temperatures to have any hope of surviving any length of time. I keep all of my film in a deep freeze at about -17 degrees(except for a few rolls of working supply, which I keep in a refrigerator). This kind of care isn't necessary, but if I end up finding some five-year-old FP4 in my freezer, it will still be fine. Jim |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Using old b&w films (60')
I have several rolls of Tmax 400 100 ft. that are still quite good five
years past expiration and some TMax 100 120 that's pushing 10 years out. Storage is important but also the end purpose. -- darkroommike ---------- "Jim MacKenzie" wrote in message ... "Michael Scarpitti" wrote in message om... Expiration dates are given to film for a reason. Throw the film out or keep it as colectables! Don't use it for photography. It's old and bad. It isn't always a waste of time to try outdated film. A friend bought a 4x5 kit at an auction four or five years ago. Included was a pile of seriously expired film. He shot and developed a sheet of Ilford FP3 that expired in 1963. Surprisingly, the negative turned out very well - it was quite printable. I suspect there was a little more base fog than normal but I couldn't detect it visually. The film likely was frozen and if it was it will be usable. Now, on the other hand, if it was stored at room temperature it's likely dead, and if it was stored somewhere that gets hot, it will certainly be dead. Film needs cool to cold temperatures to have any hope of surviving any length of time. I keep all of my film in a deep freeze at about -17 degrees(except for a few rolls of working supply, which I keep in a refrigerator). This kind of care isn't necessary, but if I end up finding some five-year-old FP4 in my freezer, it will still be fine. Jim |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|