Omega bulb questions

Ok, I've begun the process of adapting an omega head to my Zone vi. I'm
going over the specs on the kbh web site, and I see 211 screw base lamps
listed for all models. The used heads I've accumulated both have 111
bayonette bases. Is this of any concern to me?
-Lew

"Lew" wrote in message
...
Ok, I've begun the process of adapting an omega head to my
Zone vi. I'm going over the specs on the kbh web site, and
I see 211 screw base lamps listed for all models. The used
heads I've accumulated both have 111 bayonette bases. Is
this of any concern to me?
-Lew
Which model Omega do you have? The PH211 or 212 medium
screw base bulbs are standard in the 4x5 D2 and D-II
versions and some others. The bayonet bulbs are used in some
smaller format models and in some Omega color heads.
Whichever head you decide to use make sure that new bulbs
are still available for it.


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Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA



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Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA

Lew wrote:
Ok, I've begun the process of adapting an omega head to my Zone vi. I'm
going over the specs on the kbh web site, and I see 211 screw base lamps
listed for all models. The used heads I've accumulated both have 111
bayonette bases. Is this of any concern to me?

The B22 medium format head uses a 111A bayonet base lamp; the D series
4x5 condenser heads use a 211 (75W) or 212 (150W) bulb that has the
common light bulb screw base. I use 212s. The dichro heads use quartz
halogen bulbs. You might want to check out the manuals on John's
website: http://www.puresilver.org/docs/equip...enlargers.html

Ok, looks like I've got 2 B series heads. One has "Type B" on the plate
opposite the bulb socket, the other doesn't id the model. I'm mainly
interested in seeing how my underdeveloped 35's will look under a condenser,
and I should be able to mount it on the z6 anyway.
-Lew
"Michael Gudzinowicz" wrote in message
news:tgTBf.39074$Me5.18076@trnddc05...
Lew wrote:
Ok, I've begun the process of adapting an omega head to my Zone vi. I'm
going over the specs on the kbh web site, and I see 211 screw base lamps
listed for all models. The used heads I've accumulated both have 111
bayonette bases. Is this of any concern to me?

The B22 medium format head uses a 111A bayonet base lamp; the D series
4x5 condenser heads use a 211 (75W) or 212 (150W) bulb that has the
common light bulb screw base. I use 212s. The dichro heads use quartz
halogen bulbs. You might want to check out the manuals on John's
website: http://www.puresilver.org/docs/equip...enlargers.html

"Lew" wrote in message
...
Ok, looks like I've got 2 B series heads. One has "Type B"
on the plate opposite the bulb socket, the other doesn't
id the model. I'm mainly interested in seeing how my
underdeveloped 35's will look under a condenser, and I
should be able to mount it on the z6 anyway.
-Lew
"Michael Gudzinowicz" wrote in
message news:tgTBf.39074$Me5.18076@trnddc05...
Lew wrote:
Ok, I've begun the process of adapting an omega head to
my Zone vi. I'm going over the specs on the kbh web
site, and I see 211 screw base lamps listed for all
models. The used heads I've accumulated both have 111
bayonette bases. Is this of any concern to me?

The B22 medium format head uses a 111A bayonet base lamp;
the D series
4x5 condenser heads use a 211 (75W) or 212 (150W) bulb
that has the
common light bulb screw base. I use 212s. The dichro
heads use quartz
halogen bulbs. You might want to check out the manuals on
John's
website:
http://www.puresilver.org/docs/equip...enlargers.html

A condenser head will not fix underexposures. The sort
of partially diffusing condenser found on these enlargers
produces about one paper grade more contast than one would
get on a diffusion enlarger. I think I get less than that on
my Omega D2v.
Increasing the contrast will separte details in the
shadows somewhat because they are recorded at lower contrast
than more fully exposed parts of the image, but the entire
image is being printed so that part which got full exposure
will be overly contrasty. At some point of underexposure
there will simply not be anything in the shadows to recover
although its surprizing how thin a negative can be and still
print.
Increasing contrast in printing will also exagerate any
blemishes or dirt on the negative. When high contrast paper
is used it will also exagerate any uneveness in the light
source. All things to watch out for.
One method of getting reasonably good prints is to make
masks and print different parts of the image with different
variable contrast filters (on VC paper of course). This is a
lot of work but can give you results not possible in any
other way.
If you already have a good tungsten diffusion head or a
color head you can probably get enough contrast by using the
highest contrast filters. For a color head, the use of an
actual VC filter will often give you a higher contrast than
the built in filters.
Cold light heads will generally compress the contrast
range at both ends although its worth a try if you already
have one.
I have managed to get prints of what I call salvage
quality from negatives which looked nearly clear with a
little care.


--
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Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA

I'm primarily concerned with a backlog of negs that have been
underdeveloped, not underexposed. Thanks.

On Thu, 26 Jan 2006 09:33:33 GMT, "Richard Knoppow"
wrote:

When high contrast paper
is used it will also exagerate any uneveness in the light
source

And development ?

==
John - Photographer & Webmaster
www.puresilver.org - www.xs750.net