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#31
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Drilling Lensboards
Bandicoot wrote:
: wrote in message : ... : Bandicoot wrote: : Hi all, : : looking for advice: I want to drill out a couple of Graflex miniature : graphic lensboards to a larger size hole. Currently both have a small : hole : sixe that fits a Kodak Supermatic shutter, and I want to drill them out : to : take a Copal 0. : : For metal, you maybe able to find a metal chassis punch. Back in the old : days of vacuum tubes, we used them all the time for making nice clean : circular : holes without metal distortions. : : I remember those things - you drilled a small hole and put a cutter on one : side and a mandrel on the other with a bolt through the hole, then tightend : up the bolt to punch out nice burr free hole. Am I thinking of the right : thing? : That was my first thought for the ideal way to do it, even before I started : looking for a step or taper drill and found I couldn't get one large enough: : I ruled out the punch just because I thought it'd be hard to find, and : expensive for just two or three boards. Still, if I ever do run across one : I'll certainly snap it up... You should be able to get the punches from Granger.SP? As memory serves they're expensive -- Keep working millions on welfare depend on you ------------------- |
#32
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Bandicoot wrote:
: wrote in message : ... : Bandicoot wrote: : Hi all, : : looking for advice: I want to drill out a couple of Graflex miniature : graphic lensboards to a larger size hole. Currently both have a small : hole : sixe that fits a Kodak Supermatic shutter, and I want to drill them out : to : take a Copal 0. : : For metal, you maybe able to find a metal chassis punch. Back in the old : days of vacuum tubes, we used them all the time for making nice clean : circular : holes without metal distortions. : : I remember those things - you drilled a small hole and put a cutter on one : side and a mandrel on the other with a bolt through the hole, then tightend : up the bolt to punch out nice burr free hole. Am I thinking of the right : thing? : That was my first thought for the ideal way to do it, even before I started : looking for a step or taper drill and found I couldn't get one large enough: : I ruled out the punch just because I thought it'd be hard to find, and : expensive for just two or three boards. Still, if I ever do run across one : I'll certainly snap it up... You should be able to get the punches from Granger.SP? As memory serves they're expensive -- Keep working millions on welfare depend on you ------------------- |
#33
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Drilling Lensboards
Right tool for the right job! Ya know, a 12ga slug makes a good hole from
18mm to infinity, depending.... |
#34
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Right tool for the right job! Ya know, a 12ga slug makes a good hole from
18mm to infinity, depending.... |
#35
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Drilling Lensboards
Peter
Drilling Lensboards I do my share of lensboards and there is only one way. Use a lathe or get somebody who has one to make the hole bigger. Bob AZ |
#36
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Drilling Lensboards
"Bandicoot" wrote in message
... Hi all, looking for advice: I want to drill out a couple of Graflex miniature graphic lensboards to a larger size hole. Currently both have a small hole sixe that fits a Kodak Supermatic shutter, and I want to drill them out to take a Copal 0. If I could find a cone drill that went as large as 35mm it would be easy, but so far I've only seen ones that go up to 30mm. So I wondered about clamping the board (they're aluminium, not very thick) to a wooden block and using a hole saw in a slow running drill press, then deburring the hole with a pipe deburrer. Does this sound like a way to go? Also, is a 35mm hole going to be too sloppy a fit? I doubt that I'll be able to get a 34.6mm hole saw. Would it be better to try to drill a 34mm hole and file it slightly larger? Thanks for any and all suggestions! Just done it. Clamped the boards to wooden backing blocks, and clamped the blocks to the drill press. Slow running cobalt HSS hole saw and lots of cutting fluid, and advanced the cutter quite slowly. Well, it worked very well, with just the tiniest of burrs that came off with a couple of passes of the de-burring tool. I'm very pleased, and have already mounted up the lenses I wanted the boards for - a 65mm f8 Super-Angulon and a 100mm f5.6 Sironar N. The Sironar replaces a 101mm Ektar that, despite this lens' reputation, has never really pleased me - I think the coating just wasn't good enough to keep the contrast up. Very many thanks to all for their advice - whether I took it or not! Peter |
#37
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"Bandicoot" wrote in message
... Hi all, looking for advice: I want to drill out a couple of Graflex miniature graphic lensboards to a larger size hole. Currently both have a small hole sixe that fits a Kodak Supermatic shutter, and I want to drill them out to take a Copal 0. If I could find a cone drill that went as large as 35mm it would be easy, but so far I've only seen ones that go up to 30mm. So I wondered about clamping the board (they're aluminium, not very thick) to a wooden block and using a hole saw in a slow running drill press, then deburring the hole with a pipe deburrer. Does this sound like a way to go? Also, is a 35mm hole going to be too sloppy a fit? I doubt that I'll be able to get a 34.6mm hole saw. Would it be better to try to drill a 34mm hole and file it slightly larger? Thanks for any and all suggestions! Just done it. Clamped the boards to wooden backing blocks, and clamped the blocks to the drill press. Slow running cobalt HSS hole saw and lots of cutting fluid, and advanced the cutter quite slowly. Well, it worked very well, with just the tiniest of burrs that came off with a couple of passes of the de-burring tool. I'm very pleased, and have already mounted up the lenses I wanted the boards for - a 65mm f8 Super-Angulon and a 100mm f5.6 Sironar N. The Sironar replaces a 101mm Ektar that, despite this lens' reputation, has never really pleased me - I think the coating just wasn't good enough to keep the contrast up. Very many thanks to all for their advice - whether I took it or not! Peter |
#38
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"Bandicoot" wrote in message ... "jjs" wrote in message ... "Bob Salomon" wrote in message ... If you are after the proper and best results a hole in a metal lensboard should be milled and not drilled. Drilling can create problems with the board like not remaining critically flat that could effect results. Bob brings up an important point, here. I forgot to mention that I fasten the lens board to a clean, flat wooden board before drilling. Go slow, use light pressure, the proper (white) hole saw, use oil to lubricate and cool and all will be well. At least it has always worked for me. I use a drill-press and in earlier years tried to do it with a hand-drill but.... I'm a klutz. Not a good idea. The flat backing board was in my mind already, but since I was planning on using a very low cutting speed the need for cutting oil hadn't ocurred to me - but I have plenty in stock so will use it. I don't have a metal-working lathe (and didn't want to try to fabricate a tool holder to use my woodworking one) and had already decided that putting a milling cutter in a jigged router was a bad idea. Hence my thinking 'hole saw'. I'm glad it seems that others have tried the same approach and made it work. Thanks, Peter I would use oil only on ferrous metal. It you are worried about heat, water will be fine for aluminum. |
#39
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"Bandicoot" wrote in message ... "jjs" wrote in message ... "Bob Salomon" wrote in message ... If you are after the proper and best results a hole in a metal lensboard should be milled and not drilled. Drilling can create problems with the board like not remaining critically flat that could effect results. Bob brings up an important point, here. I forgot to mention that I fasten the lens board to a clean, flat wooden board before drilling. Go slow, use light pressure, the proper (white) hole saw, use oil to lubricate and cool and all will be well. At least it has always worked for me. I use a drill-press and in earlier years tried to do it with a hand-drill but.... I'm a klutz. Not a good idea. The flat backing board was in my mind already, but since I was planning on using a very low cutting speed the need for cutting oil hadn't ocurred to me - but I have plenty in stock so will use it. I don't have a metal-working lathe (and didn't want to try to fabricate a tool holder to use my woodworking one) and had already decided that putting a milling cutter in a jigged router was a bad idea. Hence my thinking 'hole saw'. I'm glad it seems that others have tried the same approach and made it work. Thanks, Peter I would use oil only on ferrous metal. It you are worried about heat, water will be fine for aluminum. |
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