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#21
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"David Edwards" wrote in message
news:IHa0d.9410$Q44.2035@trnddc09... Well first of all thank you all for your input and ideas. I will check on the film processor to see if we can get a good print from my negatives. My Epson scanner scans negatives. Whenever I'm not satisfied with a print, I scan the negative to see what it looks like without any adjustments to figure out if there is a way of getting a better print out of it. |
#22
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"David Edwards" wrote in message
news:IHa0d.9410$Q44.2035@trnddc09... Well first of all thank you all for your input and ideas. I will check on the film processor to see if we can get a good print from my negatives. My Epson scanner scans negatives. Whenever I'm not satisfied with a print, I scan the negative to see what it looks like without any adjustments to figure out if there is a way of getting a better print out of it. |
#23
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"Ryadia_" wrote in message
... Most people who (successfully) shoot moon and sun shots make two exposures. One for the ball and one for the scenery. Then blend the two pictures in Photoshop of a similar program. You simply cannot expect any film to capture the contrast range of shooting into the sun or moon. Rasther than watse time trying, shoot 2 pics next time and merge them after you scacn the film. You might be surprised at the results! Yeah, after 150 years of unsuccessful sunrise shots, finally we have photoshop. -- Regards, Matt Clara www.mattclara.com |
#24
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"Matt Clara" wrote in message ... "Ryadia_" wrote in message ... Most people who (successfully) shoot moon and sun shots make two exposures. One for the ball and one for the scenery. Then blend the two pictures in Photoshop of a similar program. You simply cannot expect any film to capture the contrast range of shooting into the sun or moon. Rasther than watse time trying, shoot 2 pics next time and merge them after you scacn the film. You might be surprised at the results! Yeah, after 150 years of unsuccessful sunrise shots, finally we have photoshop. ;-) -- Regards, Matt Clara www.mattclara.com |
#25
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I have Cokin P mount and several GND's. The Cokin filters are junk. I
bought a couple of them first. The problem is that they are nt really netural and make the clouds look very dark. B+W and Singh Ray are the best but very expensive. I use HiTech as they are much more affordable. The filters are 1, 2, or 3 stops (.3 .6 .9), hard or soft. The difference is the soft has a feathered transistion from filtered and non-filtered portions of the filter. I have a hard and soft 2 stop and soft 1 stop. I generally don't use 3 stop GND as I think that it makes the image look un-natural. That's why I bracket on the plus side. If i'm using a long lens and have a straight or nearly straight horizon I use the 2 stop hard if the horizon is not straight or I'm going wide I use soft. Recently when I was in NYC I bought a graduated sunset filterat B&H. It was used on the Hudson River shots. Literally went from the store to the river and shot. This gives another 1 stop and works well with the 2 stop. When I stacked them I staggered them. As to how much over lap, you just have to eye-ball it through the view finder and move them around untill it looks the way you want it to. I also have a 2 stop ND for longer exposures. I would suggest that you start with a 2 stop soft GND and maybe the graduated sunset filter. Use them seperately and combined and decide what if anything you need from there. Jim *----------------------------------------------------------------* * Check out my website at: http://SwensonStudio.com * * travel and landscape photography featuring beautiful sunsets * *----------------------------------------------------------------* "David Edwards" wrote in message news:IHa0d.9410$Q44.2035@trnddc09... Well first of all thank you all for your input and ideas. I will check on the film processor to see if we can get a good print from my negatives. When time rolls around for my assignment next year I will have a few new tricks to try. Thank you all. Which ND filter should I get? The one that cuts down 1 f stop or should I go for something denser? I looked at Jim's web page and he had several sunrises and sunsets that had the effect I was trying to capture. Jim, how did you get the red tint to remain in your shots. Which grade of ND filter do you recommend? -------- David Edwards nitehawk01 at verizon dot net "David Edwards" wrote in message news:h4Q%c.6248$5Y6.883@trnddc07... The other day while I was on the way to work I stopped to shoot a sunrise that I had noticed over the last couple of years, looked particularly interesting this time of the year. As I top a certain hillcrest, in the valley usually is a light fog, with tree covered hilly terrain and the sun is a huge red dot filtered through the haze instead of its usual bright white. I have tried several times to capture this scene, but I can't seem to get it right. What camera settings or filters do I need? I have been using Fuji Superia 400 cause that's what I have a supply of, a Nikon N90s and f stops from wide open to the other extreme. I have tried to focus on the trees in the distance and using the focus lock, reframe the scene and shoot. It just doesn't give me the colors I am seeing with my eyes. What do I need to do differently? -------- David E. nitehawk01 at verizon dot net |
#26
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I have Cokin P mount and several GND's. The Cokin filters are junk. I
bought a couple of them first. The problem is that they are nt really netural and make the clouds look very dark. B+W and Singh Ray are the best but very expensive. I use HiTech as they are much more affordable. The filters are 1, 2, or 3 stops (.3 .6 .9), hard or soft. The difference is the soft has a feathered transistion from filtered and non-filtered portions of the filter. I have a hard and soft 2 stop and soft 1 stop. I generally don't use 3 stop GND as I think that it makes the image look un-natural. That's why I bracket on the plus side. If i'm using a long lens and have a straight or nearly straight horizon I use the 2 stop hard if the horizon is not straight or I'm going wide I use soft. Recently when I was in NYC I bought a graduated sunset filterat B&H. It was used on the Hudson River shots. Literally went from the store to the river and shot. This gives another 1 stop and works well with the 2 stop. When I stacked them I staggered them. As to how much over lap, you just have to eye-ball it through the view finder and move them around untill it looks the way you want it to. I also have a 2 stop ND for longer exposures. I would suggest that you start with a 2 stop soft GND and maybe the graduated sunset filter. Use them seperately and combined and decide what if anything you need from there. Jim *----------------------------------------------------------------* * Check out my website at: http://SwensonStudio.com * * travel and landscape photography featuring beautiful sunsets * *----------------------------------------------------------------* "David Edwards" wrote in message news:IHa0d.9410$Q44.2035@trnddc09... Well first of all thank you all for your input and ideas. I will check on the film processor to see if we can get a good print from my negatives. When time rolls around for my assignment next year I will have a few new tricks to try. Thank you all. Which ND filter should I get? The one that cuts down 1 f stop or should I go for something denser? I looked at Jim's web page and he had several sunrises and sunsets that had the effect I was trying to capture. Jim, how did you get the red tint to remain in your shots. Which grade of ND filter do you recommend? -------- David Edwards nitehawk01 at verizon dot net "David Edwards" wrote in message news:h4Q%c.6248$5Y6.883@trnddc07... The other day while I was on the way to work I stopped to shoot a sunrise that I had noticed over the last couple of years, looked particularly interesting this time of the year. As I top a certain hillcrest, in the valley usually is a light fog, with tree covered hilly terrain and the sun is a huge red dot filtered through the haze instead of its usual bright white. I have tried several times to capture this scene, but I can't seem to get it right. What camera settings or filters do I need? I have been using Fuji Superia 400 cause that's what I have a supply of, a Nikon N90s and f stops from wide open to the other extreme. I have tried to focus on the trees in the distance and using the focus lock, reframe the scene and shoot. It just doesn't give me the colors I am seeing with my eyes. What do I need to do differently? -------- David E. nitehawk01 at verizon dot net |
#27
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"Jim" wrote in message
m... I have Cokin P mount and several GND's. The Cokin filters are junk. I bought a couple of them first. The problem is that they are nt really netural and make the clouds look very dark. B+W and Singh Ray are the best but very expensive. I use HiTech as they are much more affordable. So, is Hi Tech better than Cokin? -- Regards, Matt Clara www.mattclara.com |
#28
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"Jim" wrote in message
m... I have Cokin P mount and several GND's. The Cokin filters are junk. I bought a couple of them first. The problem is that they are nt really netural and make the clouds look very dark. B+W and Singh Ray are the best but very expensive. I use HiTech as they are much more affordable. So, is Hi Tech better than Cokin? -- Regards, Matt Clara www.mattclara.com |
#29
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"Rich Pos" wrote in message
... On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 17:41:18 GMT, "Matt Clara" wrote: So, is Hi Tech better than Cokin? I don't know about that but I have a Lee Grad ND .9 and it is totally neutral and well made priced between Hi-tech and Singh-Ray. RPŠ How much? -- Regards, Matt Clara www.mattclara.com |
#30
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"Rich Pos" wrote in message
... On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 17:41:18 GMT, "Matt Clara" wrote: So, is Hi Tech better than Cokin? I don't know about that but I have a Lee Grad ND .9 and it is totally neutral and well made priced between Hi-tech and Singh-Ray. RPŠ How much? -- Regards, Matt Clara www.mattclara.com |
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