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Shooting Sunrises



 
 
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  #21  
Old September 10th 04, 02:09 PM
Paul
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"David Edwards" wrote in message
news:IHa0d.9410$Q44.2035@trnddc09...
Well first of all thank you all for your input and ideas. I will check on
the film processor to see if we can get a good print from my negatives.


My Epson scanner scans negatives. Whenever I'm not satisfied with a print, I
scan the negative to see what it looks like without any adjustments to
figure out if there is a way of getting a better print out of it.


  #22  
Old September 10th 04, 02:09 PM
Paul
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Posts: n/a
Default

"David Edwards" wrote in message
news:IHa0d.9410$Q44.2035@trnddc09...
Well first of all thank you all for your input and ideas. I will check on
the film processor to see if we can get a good print from my negatives.


My Epson scanner scans negatives. Whenever I'm not satisfied with a print, I
scan the negative to see what it looks like without any adjustments to
figure out if there is a way of getting a better print out of it.


  #23  
Old September 10th 04, 02:22 PM
Matt Clara
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"Ryadia_" wrote in message
...
Most people who (successfully) shoot moon and sun shots make two

exposures.
One for the ball and one for the scenery. Then blend the two pictures in
Photoshop of a similar program. You simply cannot expect any film to

capture
the contrast range of shooting into the sun or moon. Rasther than watse

time
trying, shoot 2 pics next time and merge them after you scacn the film.

You
might be surprised at the results!



Yeah, after 150 years of unsuccessful sunrise shots, finally we have
photoshop.

--
Regards,
Matt Clara
www.mattclara.com


  #24  
Old September 10th 04, 05:25 PM
Matt Clara
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Default


"Matt Clara" wrote in message
...
"Ryadia_" wrote in message
...
Most people who (successfully) shoot moon and sun shots make two

exposures.
One for the ball and one for the scenery. Then blend the two pictures in
Photoshop of a similar program. You simply cannot expect any film to

capture
the contrast range of shooting into the sun or moon. Rasther than watse

time
trying, shoot 2 pics next time and merge them after you scacn the film.

You
might be surprised at the results!



Yeah, after 150 years of unsuccessful sunrise shots, finally we have
photoshop.


;-)

--
Regards,
Matt Clara
www.mattclara.com


  #25  
Old September 10th 04, 05:59 PM
Jim
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I have Cokin P mount and several GND's. The Cokin filters are junk. I
bought a couple of them first. The problem is that they are nt really
netural and make the clouds look very dark. B+W and Singh Ray are the
best but very expensive. I use HiTech as they are much more
affordable. The filters are 1, 2, or 3 stops (.3 .6 .9), hard or soft.
The difference is the soft has a feathered transistion from filtered
and non-filtered portions of the filter. I have a hard and soft 2 stop
and soft 1 stop. I generally don't use 3 stop GND as I think that it
makes the image look un-natural. That's why I bracket on the plus
side. If i'm using a long lens and have a straight or nearly straight
horizon I use the 2 stop hard if the horizon is not straight or I'm
going wide I use soft. Recently when I was in NYC I bought a graduated
sunset filterat B&H. It was used on the Hudson River shots. Literally
went from the store to the river and shot. This gives another 1 stop
and works well with the 2 stop. When I stacked them I staggered them.
As to how much over lap, you just have to eye-ball it through the view
finder and move them around untill it looks the way you want it to. I
also have a 2 stop ND for longer exposures.

I would suggest that you start with a 2 stop soft GND and maybe the
graduated sunset filter. Use them seperately and combined and decide
what if anything you need from there.

Jim

*----------------------------------------------------------------*
* Check out my website at: http://SwensonStudio.com *
* travel and landscape photography featuring beautiful sunsets *
*----------------------------------------------------------------*



"David Edwards" wrote in message news:IHa0d.9410$Q44.2035@trnddc09...
Well first of all thank you all for your input and ideas. I will check on
the film processor to see if we can get a good print from my negatives. When
time rolls around for my assignment next year I will have a few new tricks
to try. Thank you all. Which ND filter should I get? The one that cuts down
1 f stop or should I go for something denser? I looked at Jim's web page and
he had several sunrises and sunsets that had the effect I was trying to
capture. Jim, how did you get the red tint to remain in your shots. Which
grade of ND filter do you recommend?

--------
David Edwards
nitehawk01 at verizon dot net


"David Edwards" wrote in message
news:h4Q%c.6248$5Y6.883@trnddc07...
The other day while I was on the way to work I stopped to shoot a sunrise
that I had noticed over the last couple of years, looked particularly
interesting this time of the year. As I top a certain hillcrest, in the
valley usually is a light fog, with tree covered hilly terrain and the sun
is a huge red dot filtered through the haze instead of its usual bright
white. I have tried several times to capture this scene, but I can't seem
to get it right. What camera settings or filters do I need? I have been
using Fuji Superia 400 cause that's what I have a supply of, a Nikon N90s
and f stops from wide open to the other extreme. I have tried to focus on
the trees in the distance and using the focus lock, reframe the scene and
shoot. It just doesn't give me the colors I am seeing with my eyes. What
do I need to do differently?


--------
David E.
nitehawk01 at verizon dot net

  #26  
Old September 10th 04, 05:59 PM
Jim
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I have Cokin P mount and several GND's. The Cokin filters are junk. I
bought a couple of them first. The problem is that they are nt really
netural and make the clouds look very dark. B+W and Singh Ray are the
best but very expensive. I use HiTech as they are much more
affordable. The filters are 1, 2, or 3 stops (.3 .6 .9), hard or soft.
The difference is the soft has a feathered transistion from filtered
and non-filtered portions of the filter. I have a hard and soft 2 stop
and soft 1 stop. I generally don't use 3 stop GND as I think that it
makes the image look un-natural. That's why I bracket on the plus
side. If i'm using a long lens and have a straight or nearly straight
horizon I use the 2 stop hard if the horizon is not straight or I'm
going wide I use soft. Recently when I was in NYC I bought a graduated
sunset filterat B&H. It was used on the Hudson River shots. Literally
went from the store to the river and shot. This gives another 1 stop
and works well with the 2 stop. When I stacked them I staggered them.
As to how much over lap, you just have to eye-ball it through the view
finder and move them around untill it looks the way you want it to. I
also have a 2 stop ND for longer exposures.

I would suggest that you start with a 2 stop soft GND and maybe the
graduated sunset filter. Use them seperately and combined and decide
what if anything you need from there.

Jim

*----------------------------------------------------------------*
* Check out my website at: http://SwensonStudio.com *
* travel and landscape photography featuring beautiful sunsets *
*----------------------------------------------------------------*



"David Edwards" wrote in message news:IHa0d.9410$Q44.2035@trnddc09...
Well first of all thank you all for your input and ideas. I will check on
the film processor to see if we can get a good print from my negatives. When
time rolls around for my assignment next year I will have a few new tricks
to try. Thank you all. Which ND filter should I get? The one that cuts down
1 f stop or should I go for something denser? I looked at Jim's web page and
he had several sunrises and sunsets that had the effect I was trying to
capture. Jim, how did you get the red tint to remain in your shots. Which
grade of ND filter do you recommend?

--------
David Edwards
nitehawk01 at verizon dot net


"David Edwards" wrote in message
news:h4Q%c.6248$5Y6.883@trnddc07...
The other day while I was on the way to work I stopped to shoot a sunrise
that I had noticed over the last couple of years, looked particularly
interesting this time of the year. As I top a certain hillcrest, in the
valley usually is a light fog, with tree covered hilly terrain and the sun
is a huge red dot filtered through the haze instead of its usual bright
white. I have tried several times to capture this scene, but I can't seem
to get it right. What camera settings or filters do I need? I have been
using Fuji Superia 400 cause that's what I have a supply of, a Nikon N90s
and f stops from wide open to the other extreme. I have tried to focus on
the trees in the distance and using the focus lock, reframe the scene and
shoot. It just doesn't give me the colors I am seeing with my eyes. What
do I need to do differently?


--------
David E.
nitehawk01 at verizon dot net

  #27  
Old September 10th 04, 06:41 PM
Matt Clara
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Jim" wrote in message
m...
I have Cokin P mount and several GND's. The Cokin filters are junk. I
bought a couple of them first. The problem is that they are nt really
netural and make the clouds look very dark. B+W and Singh Ray are the
best but very expensive. I use HiTech as they are much more
affordable.


So, is Hi Tech better than Cokin?

--
Regards,
Matt Clara
www.mattclara.com


  #28  
Old September 10th 04, 06:41 PM
Matt Clara
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Jim" wrote in message
m...
I have Cokin P mount and several GND's. The Cokin filters are junk. I
bought a couple of them first. The problem is that they are nt really
netural and make the clouds look very dark. B+W and Singh Ray are the
best but very expensive. I use HiTech as they are much more
affordable.


So, is Hi Tech better than Cokin?

--
Regards,
Matt Clara
www.mattclara.com


  #29  
Old September 11th 04, 12:22 AM
Matt Clara
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Posts: n/a
Default

"Rich Pos" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 17:41:18 GMT, "Matt Clara"
wrote:

So, is Hi Tech better than Cokin?


I don't know about that but I have a Lee Grad ND .9 and it is totally
neutral and well made priced between Hi-tech and Singh-Ray.

RPŠ


How much?

--
Regards,
Matt Clara
www.mattclara.com


  #30  
Old September 11th 04, 12:22 AM
Matt Clara
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Rich Pos" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 17:41:18 GMT, "Matt Clara"
wrote:

So, is Hi Tech better than Cokin?


I don't know about that but I have a Lee Grad ND .9 and it is totally
neutral and well made priced between Hi-tech and Singh-Ray.

RPŠ


How much?

--
Regards,
Matt Clara
www.mattclara.com


 




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