print retouching

This question is for film printers, not digital. When spotting prints, how
do you remove the black marks on a print?

In article ,
"Robert J. Mathes" wrote:

This question is for film printers, not digital. When spotting prints, how
do you remove the black marks on a print?

Very carefully , with a razor blade or x-acto knife. If done correctly
you won't have to apply spotone to the eched area.
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Robert J. Mathes wrote:
This question is for film printers, not digital. When spotting prints, how
do you remove the black marks on a print?


You could bleach them with ferricyanide reducer if you have the skill.
Same skill as spotting with dyes. I do not have it, so I keep my negatives
as clean as possible. Black spots (wiggles, usually for me) usually were
dust on the negative prior to exposure.

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In article ,
Jean-David Beyer wrote:

You could bleach them with ferricyanide reducer if you have the skill.
Same skill as spotting with dyes. I do not have it, so I keep my negatives
as clean as possible. Black spots (wiggles, usually for me) usually were
dust on the negative prior to exposure.

I pretty much gave up on bleaching spots, although as you have sated it can be done.
I also wonder if the bleaching compromises the image to some degree.
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On Thu, 27 May 2004 09:38:34 -0400, Jean-David Beyer
wrote:

Robert J. Mathes wrote:
This question is for film printers, not digital. When spotting prints, how
do you remove the black marks on a print?


You could bleach them with ferricyanide reducer if you have the skill.
Same skill as spotting with dyes. I do not have it, so I keep my negatives
as clean as possible. Black spots (wiggles, usually for me) usually were
dust on the negative prior to exposure.

Ordinary iodine in alcohol is an excellent zilver bleach too. Fix it
and wash it after the bleach.

Gilbert

Gregory W Blank wrote:
In article ,
Jean-David Beyer wrote:


You could bleach them with ferricyanide reducer if you have the skill.
Same skill as spotting with dyes. I do not have it, so I keep my negatives
as clean as possible. Black spots (wiggles, usually for me) usually were
dust on the negative prior to exposure.


I pretty much gave up on bleaching spots, although as you have sated it can be done.
I also wonder if the bleaching compromises the image to some degree.

Since I am so clumsy on spotting and localized bleaching, I do not have
the facts. But even Ansel Adams did some bleaching at times and even
published a formula in the first edition of The Print for one for paper to
clear the highlights. This was mainly to retain highlight detail: you
print a little too dark, process and dry the print. Then use the bleach
(cutting reducer) to lighten the highlights. Contained Ammonium
ThioCyanate. That one (not Farmer's Reducer). So he thought it safe. I
would think if you washed the print properly after bleaching and did not
leave the print in the bleach too long, it would be OK. It only takes
about 5 seconds in the bleach to work as he describes it. I tried it for
10 seconds once, and that was too long.

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Jean-David Beyer wrote:

It only takes about 5 seconds in the bleach to work as he
describes it. I tried it for 10 seconds once, and that was too long.

Bleach is homeopathic, like Rodinal, it seems to work better the
more it is diluted. I try and aim for 2 1-minute bleachings to
clear highlights - when done right it adds a sparkle to the print
that can not be achieved any other way. See an original print of
AA's Vernal Falls for an example.

That said, overall bleaching is used only to clear highlights,
not for removing black spots.

If the black spot is due to a hole in the negative or dust on
the negative when it was exposed then it is a good idea to
retouch the negative: the black spot is always going to be
there, so why not get rid of it once and for all. And bleaching
and scraping are two fast roads to a ruined print.

The usual approach is to turn the black spot into a white
spot by applying spotone or opaque to the negative and
then spotting the resulting white spot on the print. Many
films can be retouched on the back side - much safer. Some
even take a soft pencil as a retouching medium.

It is also possible to scrape the black spot off the print with a
scalpel - practice first. The aim is to remove the gelatin
without removing the white layer behind the gelatin: it takes
a very steady hand and a very light touch. You will then have
to retouch the resulting scrape mark. If it was a 40x48"
print then the risk is worth it to salvage the print. For an
8x10 I would not recommend it.

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"Jean-David Beyer" wrote in message

In article et,
"Nicholas O. Lindan" wrote:

It is also possible to scrape the black spot off the print with a
scalpel - practice first. The aim is to remove the gelatin
without removing the white layer behind the gelatin: it takes
a very steady hand and a very light touch. You will then have
to retouch the resulting scrape mark. If it was a 40x48"
print then the risk is worth it to salvage the print. For an
8x10 I would not recommend it.

I've done alot of prints even 8x10's this way and it is
cetainly easier than matching the print color with
photo dye.
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Nicholas O. Lindan wrote:
Jean-David Beyer wrote:


It only takes about 5 seconds in the bleach to work as he
describes it. I tried it for 10 seconds once, and that was too long.


If the black spot is due to a hole in the negative or dust on
the negative when it was exposed then it is a good idea to
retouch the negative: the black spot is always going to be
there, so why not get rid of it once and for all. And bleaching
and scraping are two fast roads to a ruined print.

Of course they are. I used to ruin prints all the time that way. Which is
why, when I attempt retouching, I am far more interested in doing it with
a replaceable print than in irreplaceable negative.

--
.~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642.
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/( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http://counter.li.org
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In article ,
Jean-David Beyer wrote:


If the black spot is due to a hole in the negative or dust on
the negative when it was exposed then it is a good idea to
retouch the negative: the black spot is always going to be
there, so why not get rid of it once and for all. And bleaching
and scraping are two fast roads to a ruined print.

Of course they are. I used to ruin prints all the time that way. Which is
why, when I attempt retouching, I am far more interested in doing it with
a replaceable print than in irreplaceable negative.

OOOH I missed that comment, retouching negatives is a very baaaaad
idea. Unless you have a retouching machine and alot of practice.
I personally would never attempt it on my stuff. Too many ways to spot prints
or etch the spot,....hell even doing the scan and retouching in PS for RC stuff
far and above beats foobaring a good neg.
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