Zorki 3m Opinions ?

jones144 wrote:

I'll try the cellophane tape trick out once I finish the current roll
in the camera. Never heard of that one before.
The lens does stop positively at the infinity mark.
So if I set the lens at infinity at f8-11, and ignore the rangefinder,
I should get sharp focus at far objects.
I've been going by what the rangefinder focus is telling me. I'll
have to see about getting the rangefinder calibrated. Should not be
too hard, from what I see in the link someone posted above.

For anyone thinking about the Zorki vs Keiv, the Zorki is much
lighter, and I doubt the light meter will prove accurate, so the Zorki
make be a better choice.



Hi

I hope I'm not repeating the obvious, but:

Do the cellophane tape test with your lens at full aperture.

If your lens itself does not focus properly (infinity objects should
sharp on the cellophane with the lens' focussing scale set at infinity,
the same with onjects one meter with foucs set at one meter - camera on
tripod and distance measured carefully with a ruler), fiddling with the
rangefinder is pointless.
Once you're sure your lens' focus is set properly (collimated), then you
can adjust the rangefinder.

A small focussing error, even allowing for depth of field, can change
the performance of a lens from excellent to lousy.

jones144 wrote:

I'll try the cellophane tape trick out once I finish the current roll
in the camera. Never heard of that one before.
The lens does stop positively at the infinity mark.
So if I set the lens at infinity at f8-11, and ignore the rangefinder,
I should get sharp focus at far objects.
I've been going by what the rangefinder focus is telling me. I'll
have to see about getting the rangefinder calibrated. Should not be
too hard, from what I see in the link someone posted above.

For anyone thinking about the Zorki vs Keiv, the Zorki is much
lighter, and I doubt the light meter will prove accurate, so the Zorki
make be a better choice.



Hi

I hope I'm not repeating the obvious, but:

Do the cellophane tape test with your lens at full aperture.

If your lens itself does not focus properly (infinity objects should
sharp on the cellophane with the lens' focussing scale set at infinity,
the same with onjects one meter with foucs set at one meter - camera on
tripod and distance measured carefully with a ruler), fiddling with the
rangefinder is pointless.
Once you're sure your lens' focus is set properly (collimated), then you
can adjust the rangefinder.

A small focussing error, even allowing for depth of field, can change
the performance of a lens from excellent to lousy.

jones144 wrote:

I'll try the cellophane tape trick out once I finish the current roll
in the camera. Never heard of that one before.
The lens does stop positively at the infinity mark.
So if I set the lens at infinity at f8-11, and ignore the rangefinder,
I should get sharp focus at far objects.
I've been going by what the rangefinder focus is telling me. I'll
have to see about getting the rangefinder calibrated. Should not be
too hard, from what I see in the link someone posted above.

For anyone thinking about the Zorki vs Keiv, the Zorki is much
lighter, and I doubt the light meter will prove accurate, so the Zorki
make be a better choice.



Hi

I hope I'm not repeating the obvious, but:

Do the cellophane tape test with your lens at full aperture.

If your lens itself does not focus properly (infinity objects should
sharp on the cellophane with the lens' focussing scale set at infinity,
the same with onjects one meter with foucs set at one meter - camera on
tripod and distance measured carefully with a ruler), fiddling with the
rangefinder is pointless.
Once you're sure your lens' focus is set properly (collimated), then you
can adjust the rangefinder.

A small focussing error, even allowing for depth of field, can change
the performance of a lens from excellent to lousy.

On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 08:46:09 +0200, Chris Loffredo
wrote:

jones144 wrote:

I'll try the cellophane tape trick out once I finish the current roll
in the camera. Never heard of that one before.
The lens does stop positively at the infinity mark.
So if I set the lens at infinity at f8-11, and ignore the rangefinder,
I should get sharp focus at far objects.
I've been going by what the rangefinder focus is telling me. I'll
have to see about getting the rangefinder calibrated. Should not be
too hard, from what I see in the link someone posted above.

For anyone thinking about the Zorki vs Keiv, the Zorki is much
lighter, and I doubt the light meter will prove accurate, so the Zorki
make be a better choice.



Hi

I hope I'm not repeating the obvious, but:

Do the cellophane tape test with your lens at full aperture.

If your lens itself does not focus properly (infinity objects should
sharp on the cellophane with the lens' focussing scale set at infinity,
the same with onjects one meter with foucs set at one meter - camera on
tripod and distance measured carefully with a ruler), fiddling with the
rangefinder is pointless.
Once you're sure your lens' focus is set properly (collimated), then you
can adjust the rangefinder.

A small focussing error, even allowing for depth of field, can change
the performance of a lens from excellent to lousy.

If I can find that extra focusing screen I had for a Mamiya now long
gone, that should work well.
I like the Zorki and will probably use it a lot if I can get it
adjusted. It has me thinking I just may buy one of those old Leica's I
see on ebay all the time. I already have one lens for it.
Thanks for the tips.

On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 08:46:09 +0200, Chris Loffredo
wrote:

jones144 wrote:

I'll try the cellophane tape trick out once I finish the current roll
in the camera. Never heard of that one before.
The lens does stop positively at the infinity mark.
So if I set the lens at infinity at f8-11, and ignore the rangefinder,
I should get sharp focus at far objects.
I've been going by what the rangefinder focus is telling me. I'll
have to see about getting the rangefinder calibrated. Should not be
too hard, from what I see in the link someone posted above.

For anyone thinking about the Zorki vs Keiv, the Zorki is much
lighter, and I doubt the light meter will prove accurate, so the Zorki
make be a better choice.



Hi

I hope I'm not repeating the obvious, but:

Do the cellophane tape test with your lens at full aperture.

If your lens itself does not focus properly (infinity objects should
sharp on the cellophane with the lens' focussing scale set at infinity,
the same with onjects one meter with foucs set at one meter - camera on
tripod and distance measured carefully with a ruler), fiddling with the
rangefinder is pointless.
Once you're sure your lens' focus is set properly (collimated), then you
can adjust the rangefinder.

A small focussing error, even allowing for depth of field, can change
the performance of a lens from excellent to lousy.

If I can find that extra focusing screen I had for a Mamiya now long
gone, that should work well.
I like the Zorki and will probably use it a lot if I can get it
adjusted. It has me thinking I just may buy one of those old Leica's I
see on ebay all the time. I already have one lens for it.
Thanks for the tips.

On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 08:46:09 +0200, Chris Loffredo
wrote:

jones144 wrote:

I'll try the cellophane tape trick out once I finish the current roll
in the camera. Never heard of that one before.
The lens does stop positively at the infinity mark.
So if I set the lens at infinity at f8-11, and ignore the rangefinder,
I should get sharp focus at far objects.
I've been going by what the rangefinder focus is telling me. I'll
have to see about getting the rangefinder calibrated. Should not be
too hard, from what I see in the link someone posted above.

For anyone thinking about the Zorki vs Keiv, the Zorki is much
lighter, and I doubt the light meter will prove accurate, so the Zorki
make be a better choice.



Hi

I hope I'm not repeating the obvious, but:

Do the cellophane tape test with your lens at full aperture.

If your lens itself does not focus properly (infinity objects should
sharp on the cellophane with the lens' focussing scale set at infinity,
the same with onjects one meter with foucs set at one meter - camera on
tripod and distance measured carefully with a ruler), fiddling with the
rangefinder is pointless.
Once you're sure your lens' focus is set properly (collimated), then you
can adjust the rangefinder.

A small focussing error, even allowing for depth of field, can change
the performance of a lens from excellent to lousy.

If I can find that extra focusing screen I had for a Mamiya now long
gone, that should work well.
I like the Zorki and will probably use it a lot if I can get it
adjusted. It has me thinking I just may buy one of those old Leica's I
see on ebay all the time. I already have one lens for it.
Thanks for the tips.

On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 14:34:10 -0500, "Dominic Richens"
wrote:

John Doe wrote:
I am thinking of buying one.

Anyone care to share their experience or advice ?

I don't have one but I know people who do and say they are one of the nicer
FSU cameras. They have all the features of the Zorki 4 but with nicer
styling. Basically looks and handles like a real Leica screw mount camera,
but with a bigger brighter combined VF/RF.

Zorki 4 are cheaper (~25$ with a Jupiter 8 lens) because over a million were
made.

If you can, get it with a sliver Jupiter 8 instead of an Industar.

here here! I have Zorkies 3 thru 6 with J's and I's and the F:2
Jupiter-8 is super sharp. Shot on a tripod, 16x20's are easy.

THOM

--
Dominic Richens |
"If you're not *outraged*, you're not paying attention!"