C41 rotary development

I hav bought some NOVA ProSpeed C41 chemistry, to develop a few films. The
enclosed leaflet gives only development times for intermittenet agitation
(5sec evvery 30 sec.), but I intend to use a JOBO CPE rotary developing
apparatus. Does anybody know how much the developing times should be reduced
?

Regards John Dancke
Norway

"news.c2i.net" wrote in message
...
I hav bought some NOVA ProSpeed C41 chemistry, to develop a few films. The
enclosed leaflet gives only development times for intermittenet agitation
(5sec evvery 30 sec.), but I intend to use a JOBO CPE rotary developing
apparatus. Does anybody know how much the developing times should be
reduced ?

Regards John Dancke
Norway


I know this is going to start a battle, but....

I used to use intermittant agitation for C41 developing, 5sec.30seconds. Now
I use a "Uniroller" (print tube rollar base) for constant agitation. I see
no real difference between the two methods. Caveat: I did not conduct any
scientific testing; I'm just basing this on how the finished prints look,
and the printing times.

I would add that when I first started doing c41, I had problems with
'uniformity'-- there would be light and dark areas where the image should be
solid in tone and color. At the recommendation of someone on one of these
groups (sorry! don't remember who), I started using a two minute presoak
with agitation at the developing temperature. This cured the problem.

news.c2i.net wrote:

I hav bought some NOVA ProSpeed C41 chemistry, to develop a few films. The
enclosed leaflet gives only development times for intermittenet agitation
(5sec evvery 30 sec.), but I intend to use a JOBO CPE rotary developing
apparatus. Does anybody know how much the developing times should be reduced
?

What time do they recommend for the CD?

I'd run a first test with a less important film and the times indicated
for your product. Do note that only the CD is time-critical. BL and FX
(or BX in a combined solution) have minimum times which can safely be
lengthened by as much as 100 %.

Ralf

--
Ralf R. Radermacher - DL9KCG - Köln/Cologne, Germany
private homepage: http://www.fotoralf.de
manual cameras and photo galleries - updated Jan. 10, 2005
Contarex - Kiev 60 - Horizon 202 - P6 mount lenses

The recomende 3 min and 15 sec. at 38 degress Celcius.
In B/W work it is often recomended shortening the development time 15%,
when using Continuos development. Even from my limited experience I can see
that this is not always good advice.

Thank you all for your help so far.

John Dancke
Email:


"Ralf R. Radermacher" skrev i melding
...
news.c2i.net wrote:

I hav bought some NOVA ProSpeed C41 chemistry, to develop a few films.
The
enclosed leaflet gives only development times for intermittenet agitation
(5sec evvery 30 sec.), but I intend to use a JOBO CPE rotary developing
apparatus. Does anybody know how much the developing times should be
reduced
?

What time do they recommend for the CD?

I'd run a first test with a less important film and the times indicated
for your product. Do note that only the CD is time-critical. BL and FX
(or BX in a combined solution) have minimum times which can safely be
lengthened by as much as 100 %.

Ralf

--
Ralf R. Radermacher - DL9KCG - Köln/Cologne, Germany
private homepage: http://www.fotoralf.de
manual cameras and photo galleries - updated Jan. 10, 2005
Contarex - Kiev 60 - Horizon 202 - P6 mount lenses

news.c2i.net wrote:

The recomende 3 min and 15 sec. at 38 degress Celcius.

This is exactly the time and temperature used with all other chemicals
intended for rotary development. Just go ahead.

Ralf

--
Ralf R. Radermacher - DL9KCG - Köln/Cologne, Germany
private homepage: http://www.fotoralf.de
manual cameras and photo galleries - updated Jan. 10, 2005
Contarex - Kiev 60 - Horizon 202 - P6 mount lenses

We'll give it a try then. Thanks a lot.

John M. Dancke

"Ralf R. Radermacher" skrev i melding
...
news.c2i.net wrote:

The recomende 3 min and 15 sec. at 38 degress Celcius.

This is exactly the time and temperature used with all other chemicals
intended for rotary development. Just go ahead.

Ralf

--
Ralf R. Radermacher - DL9KCG - Köln/Cologne, Germany
private homepage: http://www.fotoralf.de
manual cameras and photo galleries - updated Jan. 10, 2005
Contarex - Kiev 60 - Horizon 202 - P6 mount lenses

Hm. Worth the trouble ? Normally I would say not. I usually get my film
(120) developed by a local photographer/store, but recently i got som well
defined stripes along the edge of the film, turning out darker on the print.
He does not not notice it on his own films, but on my landscapes with an
even sky across the frame, things are easy to see. So I thougt I would try
myself, just for the sake of the argument.

John Dancke

"laura halliday" skrev i melding
...
On Jun 3, 11:41 am, "news.c2i.net" wrote:
I hav bought some NOVA ProSpeed C41 chemistry, to develop a few films.
The
enclosed leaflet gives only development times for intermittenet agitation
(5sec evvery 30 sec.), but I intend to use a JOBO CPE rotary developing
apparatus. Does anybody know how much the developing times should be
reduced
?

Regards John Dancke
Norway

When the development time is only a little over 3 minutes, you have to
take agitation seriously. I've done C41 in a Jobo processor (3:15 at
38
degrees, continuous agitation) and in a daylight tank. Same time,
same temperature, agitate 5 seconds every 15 seconds. It turned
out fine. I'm not sure if it's worth the trouble, but that's another
matter... :-)

Laura Halliday VE7LDH "Non sequitur. Your ACKS are
Grid: CN89mg uncoordinated."
ICBM: 49 16.05 N 122 56.92 W - Nomad the Network Engineer

"news.c2i.net" wrote in message
...
Hm. Worth the trouble ? Normally I would say not. I usually get my film
(120) developed by a local photographer/store, but recently i got som well
defined stripes along the edge of the film, turning out darker on the
print. He does not not notice it on his own films, but on my landscapes
with an even sky across the frame, things are easy to see. So I thougt I
would try myself, just for the sake of the argument.

John Dancke


Exactly the reason I started doing my own color processing. The local places
get so little 120 size film that their roller transport processor will
accumulate 'trash' on the rollers outside the 35mm width. (If you constantly
run 35mm film through the processor, the film will keep the rollers clean
and polished for a 35mm width path down the center. If you then put a roll
of 120 through, it will pick up the stuff that the 35mm film has pushed
aside.)

Color processing is not difficult: C-41 film processing just requires
temperature control. I put together a water bath using cast-off parts from
an old color processor machine (thormostat, heater and tank). Others have
recommended using an aquarium heater and a picnic cooler. And the trick to
RA-4 printing is to get the density right, then get the color right.

On 6/4/2008 11:17 AM Ken Hart spake thus:

"news.c2i.net" wrote in message
...

Hm. Worth the trouble ? Normally I would say not. I usually get my film
(120) developed by a local photographer/store, but recently i got som well
defined stripes along the edge of the film, turning out darker on the
print. He does not not notice it on his own films, but on my landscapes
with an even sky across the frame, things are easy to see. So I thougt I
would try myself, just for the sake of the argument.

Exactly the reason I started doing my own color processing. The local places
get so little 120 size film that their roller transport processor will
accumulate 'trash' on the rollers outside the 35mm width. (If you constantly
run 35mm film through the processor, the film will keep the rollers clean
and polished for a 35mm width path down the center. If you then put a roll
of 120 through, it will pick up the stuff that the 35mm film has pushed
aside.)

Which sounds like a good argument for an alternative solution: find a
place that regularly processes 120. ('Round heah (San Francisco Bay
Area) there probably are a couple, but they're probably not easy to find.)


--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute
conversation with the average voter.

- Attributed to Winston Churchill

David Nebenzahl wrote:

Which sounds like a good argument for an alternative solution: find a
place that regularly processes 120. ('Round heah (San Francisco Bay
Area) there probably are a couple, but they're probably not easy to find.)

Sounds like what happened yesterday when I tried to buy a Holga. There
is one store in town that has the model "N" for 270 NIS. For those that
don't care, which is probably most of the world, 3.3 NIS equal 1 dollar.

That $81 in "American" money. Freestyle has them for $25. Due to the local
taxes, one would expect to pay around 100 NIS ($33) for one, but not here.

Since the cost of shipping from Freestyle (they only ship International
shipments FEDEX) is so high, it's almost worth it.

So I go into the store with the intention of looking at the camera seriously.

The salesman tells me not to buy it because it uses "nonstandard" film, and
it will cost a lot of money and be almost impossible to get processed. The
concept that I was going to use it for black and white film and develop the
prints myself (which is why I wanted the 6x6 negative), was lost on him.

After looking around, they are the only store left in town that sells fresh
developer and paper, but I think there is one other store that sells 120 film.

Oh well.

I think what I am going to do is use one of the similar 35mm cameras (someone
gave me two of them) and play around with it that way. I was thinking of
using tri-x or similar film and developing it with Rodinal 1:100, so the
highlights won't burn out.

If anyone has suggestions for film and developing with HC-110 I would
appreciate it, the store had several bottles of it, and they still were
yellow (it's the euro concentrate, not the U.S. syrup).

I also have some 1990 dated Tri-X left (it came in a free bulk loader),
and I may use that just to add to the effect. :-)

BTW, if anyone has a 120 camera of any kind, or small darkroom stuff
(e.g enlarging lenses, 23CII accessories, safelights, Paterson reels),
etc and wants to get rid of it (give it away) and happens to live near
Philly, I have some relatives comming here in a week with a little room
in their suitcase.

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM