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#1
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solarizing lith film
I am trying to solarize some type 3 kodak lith film sheets, using their own
Kodalith A & B developer and some BW negatives. I am projecting 35mm negs onto 8 x 10 lith sheets in hopes that getting a good solarization effect on film will let me then print multiple copies, compared to solarizing prints. I have some experience with solarizing BW prints but I'm not getting anywhere with the lith film. Can anyone please advise me on how to solarize lith film or point me to a source that might answer my question? Thanks a lot. |
#2
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solarizing lith film
Wow, I've been out of the darkroom so long ....
As I remember it, Litho film is very high contrast and you get only black and clear -- no grayscale. I'm not sure how that would solarize. I did a quite search and found this article http://photography.about.com/library.../aa091399c.htm It talks a little about Lith film and the chemicals. Maybe it will help. You know more about film than I do. It's just been SO long. Put is this way, I still use ASA instead of ISO. But it's great to see someone staying with traditional methods. Sorry I can't be of more help. Good luck. |
#3
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solarizing lith film
Thanks, I've been reading about it and it seems that you need to use a
different developer than lith developer to produce some sort of tonal range on the film that can get solarized. "Pat" wrote in message oups.com... Wow, I've been out of the darkroom so long .... As I remember it, Litho film is very high contrast and you get only black and clear -- no grayscale. I'm not sure how that would solarize. I did a quite search and found this article http://photography.about.com/library.../aa091399c.htm It talks a little about Lith film and the chemicals. Maybe it will help. You know more about film than I do. It's just been SO long. Put is this way, I still use ASA instead of ISO. But it's great to see someone staying with traditional methods. Sorry I can't be of more help. Good luck. |
#4
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solarizing lith film
You need to use a continuous tone developer. It's quite possible; I used to
make copy transparencies on Kodalith 2556 and IIRC used dilute print dev. Of course, printing from negs, you'll then have solarised positives which you'll need to contact print again to get a neg for printing. That's why you might want to try solarising prints, copying them, then printing from the new neg. To get a solarised neg direct you need to print on direct positive film. Or you could reversal process the lith film. Good luck, and well done for helping. keep wet photography alive "Luis Ortega" wrote in message ... Thanks, I've been reading about it and it seems that you need to use a different developer than lith developer to produce some sort of tonal range on the film that can get solarized. "Pat" wrote in message oups.com... Wow, I've been out of the darkroom so long .... As I remember it, Litho film is very high contrast and you get only black and clear -- no grayscale. I'm not sure how that would solarize. I did a quite search and found this article http://photography.about.com/library.../aa091399c.htm It talks a little about Lith film and the chemicals. Maybe it will help. You know more about film than I do. It's just been SO long. Put is this way, I still use ASA instead of ISO. But it's great to see someone staying with traditional methods. Sorry I can't be of more help. Good luck. |
#5
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solarizing lith film
I used to simply solarize a print. I exposed the print on a higher-contrast
paper. Then I started to develop it in a water-diluted developer (about 1:5) until the first blacks came out. Then I solarized the print while in the diluted developer with a 15 W bulb and completed the development normally. I never found the final print contrasty enough. Therefore I re-photographed the print, creating a new negative from which I could print (high contrast) as much as I wanted.. Dankwart -- |************************************************* **************| | Note my new email address: ! ! ! ! Visit my Web Site http://dankwart.tripod.com | ! | ************************************************** **************. "Mark Dunn" wrote in message ... You need to use a continuous tone developer. It's quite possible; I used to make copy transparencies on Kodalith 2556 and IIRC used dilute print dev. Of course, printing from negs, you'll then have solarised positives which you'll need to contact print again to get a neg for printing. That's why you might want to try solarising prints, copying them, then printing from the new neg. To get a solarised neg direct you need to print on direct positive film. Or you could reversal process the lith film. Good luck, and well done for helping. keep wet photography alive "Luis Ortega" wrote in message ... Thanks, I've been reading about it and it seems that you need to use a different developer than lith developer to produce some sort of tonal range on the film that can get solarized. "Pat" wrote in message oups.com... Wow, I've been out of the darkroom so long .... As I remember it, Litho film is very high contrast and you get only black and clear -- no grayscale. I'm not sure how that would solarize. I did a quite search and found this article http://photography.about.com/library.../aa091399c.htm It talks a little about Lith film and the chemicals. Maybe it will help. You know more about film than I do. It's just been SO long. Put is this way, I still use ASA instead of ISO. But it's great to see someone staying with traditional methods. Sorry I can't be of more help. Good luck. |
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