If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Who's left in the E6 biz?
Who's still producing E6 film. Here's my attempt at a comprehensive
list: Kodak Fuji Konica Agfa Ferrania Any Eastern European E6 producers? Or any others? |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Hum wonder if its reboxed Fomapan R Made in the Czech Republic?
Anyway Fomapan R is cool stuff. In article , (ChrisPlatt) wrote: On 9/2/04 (Steven Sawyer) wrote: Any Eastern European E6 producers? Or any others? Macochrome UCR100 127 E-6 color slide film says "Made in E.C." on the box... Excelsior, you fatheads! -Chris- -- LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918 |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Gregory Blank schrieb:
Macochrome UCR100 127 E-6 color slide film says "Made in E.C." on the box... Maco doesn´t coat for themselves, it´s some bulk stock cut down. Hum wonder if its reboxed Fomapan R Made in the Czech Republic? No. certainly not. Macochrome is Color, E6, Fomapan R is probably some kind of bw movie stock and not available in sizes beyond 135. Anyway Fomapan R is cool stuff. Indeed - good sharpness and grain, nice tone, and stunning latitude for a slide film. Gruss, Roman -- "A man should always keep two things in mind: one is that he is a fool; the other is that he is going to die." (Gurdijew) |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Roman J. Rohleder wrote:
Gregory Blank schrieb: Macochrome is Color, E6, Fomapan R is probably some kind of bw movie stock and not available in sizes beyond 135. This is confirmed, and further it cannot be developed to a negative in conventional B&W processing due to a colloidal silver antihalation layer. The only practical way I know of to get a negative from Fomapan R is to develop in a color developer with the same black dye couplers used in XP2 or BW400CN type C-41 B&W films, then bleach and fix as for C-41. For B&W positives, of course, you use the regular first dev, non-halogenating bleach, reversal exposure, second dev, fix process that would produce a positive on any B&W material -- but the bleach step is mandatory to remove the silver AH layer. Anyway Fomapan R is cool stuff. Indeed - good sharpness and grain, nice tone, and stunning latitude for a slide film. Never tried it, but I might have to get a short roll and try it in my Minolta 16 cameras once I have the resources to do reversal processing -- using Diafine for a first dev should give EI 160 to 200, and grain would be determined by the second dev, which could be a super-fine grain soup like Microdol-X or Ilfosol. -- I may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz! -- E. J. Fudd, 1954 Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth and don't expect them to be perfect. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
In article . net,
Donald Qualls wrote: Roman J. Rohleder wrote: Gregory Blank schrieb: Macochrome is Color, E6, Fomapan R is probably some kind of bw movie stock and not available in sizes beyond 135. This is confirmed, and further it cannot be developed to a negative in conventional B&W processing due to a colloidal silver antihalation layer. The only practical way I know of to get a negative from Fomapan R is to develop in a color developer with the same black dye couplers used in XP2 or BW400CN type C-41 B&W films, then bleach and fix as for C-41. For B&W positives, of course, you use the regular first dev, non-halogenating bleach, reversal exposure, second dev, fix process that would produce a positive on any B&W material -- but the bleach step is mandatory to remove the silver AH layer. Anyway Fomapan R is cool stuff. Indeed - good sharpness and grain, nice tone, and stunning latitude for a slide film. Never tried it, but I might have to get a short roll and try it in my Minolta 16 cameras once I have the resources to do reversal processing -- using Diafine for a first dev should give EI 160 to 200, and grain would be determined by the second dev, which could be a super-fine grain soup like Microdol-X or Ilfosol. Or you could send it to Duggal in NYC I highly recommend them. -- LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918 |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 19:03:53 GMT, Donald Qualls
wrote: Roman J. Rohleder wrote: Gregory Blank schrieb: Macochrome is Color, E6, Fomapan R is probably some kind of bw movie stock and not available in sizes beyond 135. This is confirmed, and further it cannot be developed to a negative in conventional B&W processing due to a colloidal silver antihalation layer. Both Color reversal and BW reversal first developers use a small amount of a Silver solvent such as Thiocyanate to remove the very fine particle silver in the AH layer. About one (1) gram should be enough. If you make up your own solutions, try that out as a first test. Look at the published formulae for first developers of reversal films, both color and BW. That should be enough for someone as informed as you have shown yourself to be. The only practical way I know of to get a negative from Fomapan R is to develop in a color developer with the same black dye couplers used in XP2 or BW400CN type C-41 B&W films, then bleach and fix as for C-41. For B&W positives, of course, you use the regular first dev, non-halogenating bleach, reversal exposure, second dev, fix process that would produce a positive on any B&W material -- but the bleach step is mandatory to remove the silver AH layer. Hmmm. Perhaps what I suggested, above, will work better and more inexpensively. Anyway Fomapan R is cool stuff. Indeed - good sharpness and grain, nice tone, and stunning latitude for a slide film. Never tried it, but I might have to get a short roll and try it in my Minolta 16 cameras once I have the resources to do reversal processing -- using Diafine for a first dev should give EI 160 to 200, and grain would be determined by the second dev, which could be a super-fine grain soup like Microdol-X or Ilfosol. I suggest you make up double strength batches of Diafine, as negatives are developed to a lower Gamma than are reversal films. Diafine, as it works for negatives, might be too weak. Again, note the use of Thiocyantes in reversal first developers. The second developer is usually not a critical item. All it has to do is develop the remaining Silver, which is usually the slow, smallest grains that are left in the emulsion after first development. They don't clump as readily as the larger grains that get developed in the first developer, and would be more easily and seriously affected by solvents in any developer. The two you mentioned both have significant solvent action, both from agents added and the high level of Sulfite. Just use the formula given for second developer that is published. Heck, I knew one guy who opened some cans of Dektol and added thiocyanate to the first developer and used the Dektol stright as his second developer. He did this after testing to refine his procedures, and I can't remeber what those refinements were, but I recall that it wasn't much. By the way, you'll lose speed on any reversal film developed as a negative. It's the nature of the beasts. They are all based on negative emulsions of about a stop and a half less speed rating. This is largely due to the differences in their initial developers. Your tests will show that to you. In any event, your ideas are interesting, and so should be your results. Looking forward to hearing of them. Robert Vervoordt, MFA |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
In article . net,
Donald Qualls wrote: Roman J. Rohleder wrote: Gregory Blank schrieb: Macochrome is Color, E6, Fomapan R is probably some kind of bw movie stock and not available in sizes beyond 135. This is confirmed, and further it cannot be developed to a negative in conventional B&W processing due to a colloidal silver antihalation layer. The only practical way I know of to get a negative from Fomapan R is to develop in a color developer with the same black dye couplers used in XP2 or BW400CN type C-41 B&W films, then bleach and fix as for C-41. For B&W positives, of course, you use the regular first dev, non-halogenating bleach, reversal exposure, second dev, fix process that would produce a positive on any B&W material -- but the bleach step is mandatory to remove the silver AH layer. Anyway Fomapan R is cool stuff. Indeed - good sharpness and grain, nice tone, and stunning latitude for a slide film. Never tried it, but I might have to get a short roll and try it in my Minolta 16 cameras once I have the resources to do reversal processing -- using Diafine for a first dev should give EI 160 to 200, and grain would be determined by the second dev, which could be a super-fine grain soup like Microdol-X or Ilfosol. Or you could send it to Duggal in NYC I highly recommend them. -- LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918 |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
In article . net,
Donald Qualls wrote: Roman J. Rohleder wrote: Gregory Blank schrieb: Macochrome is Color, E6, Fomapan R is probably some kind of bw movie stock and not available in sizes beyond 135. This is confirmed, and further it cannot be developed to a negative in conventional B&W processing due to a colloidal silver antihalation layer. The only practical way I know of to get a negative from Fomapan R is to develop in a color developer with the same black dye couplers used in XP2 or BW400CN type C-41 B&W films, then bleach and fix as for C-41. For B&W positives, of course, you use the regular first dev, non-halogenating bleach, reversal exposure, second dev, fix process that would produce a positive on any B&W material -- but the bleach step is mandatory to remove the silver AH layer. Anyway Fomapan R is cool stuff. Indeed - good sharpness and grain, nice tone, and stunning latitude for a slide film. Never tried it, but I might have to get a short roll and try it in my Minolta 16 cameras once I have the resources to do reversal processing -- using Diafine for a first dev should give EI 160 to 200, and grain would be determined by the second dev, which could be a super-fine grain soup like Microdol-X or Ilfosol. Or you could send it to Duggal in NYC I highly recommend them. -- LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918 |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 19:03:53 GMT, Donald Qualls
wrote: Roman J. Rohleder wrote: Gregory Blank schrieb: Macochrome is Color, E6, Fomapan R is probably some kind of bw movie stock and not available in sizes beyond 135. This is confirmed, and further it cannot be developed to a negative in conventional B&W processing due to a colloidal silver antihalation layer. Both Color reversal and BW reversal first developers use a small amount of a Silver solvent such as Thiocyanate to remove the very fine particle silver in the AH layer. About one (1) gram should be enough. If you make up your own solutions, try that out as a first test. Look at the published formulae for first developers of reversal films, both color and BW. That should be enough for someone as informed as you have shown yourself to be. The only practical way I know of to get a negative from Fomapan R is to develop in a color developer with the same black dye couplers used in XP2 or BW400CN type C-41 B&W films, then bleach and fix as for C-41. For B&W positives, of course, you use the regular first dev, non-halogenating bleach, reversal exposure, second dev, fix process that would produce a positive on any B&W material -- but the bleach step is mandatory to remove the silver AH layer. Hmmm. Perhaps what I suggested, above, will work better and more inexpensively. Anyway Fomapan R is cool stuff. Indeed - good sharpness and grain, nice tone, and stunning latitude for a slide film. Never tried it, but I might have to get a short roll and try it in my Minolta 16 cameras once I have the resources to do reversal processing -- using Diafine for a first dev should give EI 160 to 200, and grain would be determined by the second dev, which could be a super-fine grain soup like Microdol-X or Ilfosol. I suggest you make up double strength batches of Diafine, as negatives are developed to a lower Gamma than are reversal films. Diafine, as it works for negatives, might be too weak. Again, note the use of Thiocyantes in reversal first developers. The second developer is usually not a critical item. All it has to do is develop the remaining Silver, which is usually the slow, smallest grains that are left in the emulsion after first development. They don't clump as readily as the larger grains that get developed in the first developer, and would be more easily and seriously affected by solvents in any developer. The two you mentioned both have significant solvent action, both from agents added and the high level of Sulfite. Just use the formula given for second developer that is published. Heck, I knew one guy who opened some cans of Dektol and added thiocyanate to the first developer and used the Dektol stright as his second developer. He did this after testing to refine his procedures, and I can't remeber what those refinements were, but I recall that it wasn't much. By the way, you'll lose speed on any reversal film developed as a negative. It's the nature of the beasts. They are all based on negative emulsions of about a stop and a half less speed rating. This is largely due to the differences in their initial developers. Your tests will show that to you. In any event, your ideas are interesting, and so should be your results. Looking forward to hearing of them. Robert Vervoordt, MFA |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Left handed SLR | George | 35mm Photo Equipment | 23 | August 18th 04 11:51 PM |
DX6490 question-thumbwheel left side of view finder | Howard | Digital Photography | 3 | July 15th 04 06:33 PM |
No Scratch left on too long? | Rick Warburton | In The Darkroom | 1 | April 22nd 04 08:21 PM |
Mamiya RB67 Left Hand Grip Problems/Questions | Matt Clara | Medium Format Photography Equipment | 4 | February 18th 04 07:22 PM |