How to measure ISO

On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 17:16:06 -0800, Savageduck
wrote:

On 2015-11-05 23:33:39 +0000, Eric Stevens said:

On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 16:57:34 -0500, Alan Browne
wrote:

On 2015-11-05 02:42, Eric Stevens wrote:
On Wed, 04 Nov 2015 22:59:42 -0500, nospam
wrote:

In article , Eric Stevens
wrote:

That said, I'd rather underexpose by half a stop
than overexpose by a stop.

Well, there is a general recommendation to expose to the right, to
minimise noise (also taking into account that cameras nowadays tolerate
some overexposure).

As a general rule, I would also expose to the left. The D750 gives me
little trouble with noise and I tend to have more trouble with burned
out highs than I do with loss of detail in the shadows.

ideally, it's best to expose to the right without clipping any
highlights.

Why?

What do you do if, as I said, your problem *is* clipping highlights?


He's generally right as one treats digital like slide film ("expose for
the highlights"). I shoot 2.3 - 2.5 stops down from HL for my a900.
For the 7D, 1.7.. 2 stops down. (using spot metering in both).

That said, sometimes clipped HL are necessary to get the subject nicely
and exposed.

My recent problems have been due either to bright clouds or inside
lighting in buildings. Also stained glass windows viewed from the
inside of of buildings.

I have stained glass from the outside in. Now I need to hunt down the reverse.
https://db.tt/wdLuyTuB

That's not so difficult. Most of mine are taken from the inside of a
poorly lit building while the stained galss is lit from the outside
with the full power of daylight.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...03/LR---15.jpg

I like the body-language in that picture.

Once again D300. This time hand-held for 1/25 at f/6.3. You can see
why I am trying to avoid burning out the highlights.
--

Regards,

Eric Stevens

In article , Whisky-dave
wrote:

Mort:
A similar situation existed years ago with mechanical
shutters, which oftentimes did not deliver their higher
speeds with any degree of accuracy.

Alfred Molon:
Ehhpp... exposure times are inaccurate? Even nowadays with
digital cameras? Is there any place where I can read more about
this?

nospam:
no to all three.

yuo can test things yuorself.

http://photo.net/large-format-photography-forum/00Uajj

refering to a D700 " I just tried this on my "new" Schneider Symar
135mm f/5.6 and found it was dead on at all shutter speeds except
1/500 sec. which is actually exposing at 1/400 sec. "

Uh, he was using a a D700 to measure the shutter of the Symar lens on his large
format camera. I.e. he was using the far more accurate shutter on a DSLR to test
the shutter on his analog camera.

--
Sandman

On 2015-11-05 22:23, Eric Stevens wrote:
On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 18:52:56 -0500, Alan Browne
wrote:

On 2015-11-05 18:33, Eric Stevens wrote:
On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 16:57:34 -0500, Alan Browne
wrote:

On 2015-11-05 02:42, Eric Stevens wrote:
On Wed, 04 Nov 2015 22:59:42 -0500, nospam
wrote:

In article , Eric Stevens
wrote:

That said, I'd rather underexpose by half a stop
than overexpose by a stop.

Well, there is a general recommendation to expose to the right, to
minimise noise (also taking into account that cameras nowadays tolerate
some overexposure).

As a general rule, I would also expose to the left. The D750 gives me
little trouble with noise and I tend to have more trouble with burned
out highs than I do with loss of detail in the shadows.

ideally, it's best to expose to the right without clipping any
highlights.

Why?

What do you do if, as I said, your problem *is* clipping highlights?


He's generally right as one treats digital like slide film ("expose for
the highlights"). I shoot 2.3 - 2.5 stops down from HL for my a900.
For the 7D, 1.7.. 2 stops down. (using spot metering in both).

That said, sometimes clipped HL are necessary to get the subject nicely
and exposed.

My recent problems have been due either to bright clouds or inside
lighting in buildings. Also stained glass windows viewed from the
inside of of buildings.

Scene DR is too high to get it all in both cases. Digital is better
than slide film, but the difference from mid tone to highlight remains
relatively slim. On the plus side you have much more range from mid
tone to shadow with digital v. slide.

For things like stained glass inside buildings I'd suggest a tripod and
HDR methods. 3 images is probably enough in most cases. Same for
outdoor if the subject permits.

See https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...03/LR---19.jpg

St Peters in the 'old town' of Geneva. Hand held D300. 1/50 sec at
f/6.3. Processed with LR.

Looks crappy. You want a smooth glow to the walls. Shoot for the wall,
shoot for the glass. Two separate exposures (absent fill light).

Example: if the light outside hitting the glass is raw sunlight, then
you would expose for sunny-16. There is no way the interior walls are
anywhere close to sunny-16.

On 11/4/2015 10:59 PM, nospam wrote:
In article , Eric Stevens
wrote:

That said, I'd rather underexpose by half a stop
than overexpose by a stop.

Well, there is a general recommendation to expose to the right, to
minimise noise (also taking into account that cameras nowadays tolerate
some overexposure).

As a general rule, I would also expose to the left. The D750 gives me
little trouble with noise and I tend to have more trouble with burned
out highs than I do with loss of detail in the shadows.

ideally, it's best to expose to the right without clipping any
highlights.


Most good photographers expose for the subject matter. But then we don't
know about you, since we have not knowingly seen anything produced by you.


--
PeterN

On 11/5/2015 10:09 AM, nospam wrote:
In article , Eric Stevens
wrote:

How on
earth do you set the diaphragm on your lens?

same as usual, with the front control wheel.

however, that has nothing to do with an exposure meter.

That will be news to many.

learning is a good thing.


Try it sometime.

--
PeterN

In article , PeterN
wrote:

That said, I'd rather underexpose by half a stop
than overexpose by a stop.

Well, there is a general recommendation to expose to the right, to
minimise noise (also taking into account that cameras nowadays tolerate
some overexposure).

As a general rule, I would also expose to the left. The D750 gives me
little trouble with noise and I tend to have more trouble with burned
out highs than I do with loss of detail in the shadows.

ideally, it's best to expose to the right without clipping any
highlights.


Most good photographers expose for the subject matter.

whoosh.

once again you demonstrate your ignorance.

But then we don't
know about you, since we have not knowingly seen anything produced by you.

you haven't, but others certainly have.

On 11/5/2015 5:57 PM, sid wrote:

snip


If you always do as nospam suggested then you will always record the maximum
amount of detail with the least noise.


That is a good general rule, not only for exposure, but I find it gives
me the best color accuracy.
As with generalities, there are situations where variance is called for.

BTW A few years ago I remember stating that rule, and nospam was giving
all sorts of reasons why it was a stupid thing to do.




--
PeterN

In article , PeterN
wrote:

If you always do as nospam suggested then you will always record the maximum
amount of detail with the least noise.


That is a good general rule, not only for exposure, but I find it gives
me the best color accuracy.

that's not what you said in another post just minutes ago.

As with generalities, there are situations where variance is called for.

imagine that.

BTW A few years ago I remember stating that rule, and nospam was giving
all sorts of reasons why it was a stupid thing to do.

you remember incorrectly. or you're outright lying.

On 11/5/2015 6:52 PM, Alan Browne wrote:

snip


For things like stained glass inside buildings I'd suggest a tripod and
HDR methods. 3 images is probably enough in most cases. Same for
outdoor if the subject permits.


That depends on your camera. IIRC for the best HDR each exposure should
be two stops apart. While some Canons will do that auto bracketing, my
Nikon will only bracket one stop. Therefore, five exposures are
required, unless I do a manual exposure compensation.

--
PeterN

On 11/6/2015 1:56 PM, nospam wrote:
In article , PeterN
wrote:

If you always do as nospam suggested then you will always record the maximum
amount of detail with the least noise.


That is a good general rule, not only for exposure, but I find it gives
me the best color accuracy.

that's not what you said in another post just minutes ago.

Do learn to read.


As with generalities, there are situations where variance is called for.

imagine that.

BTW A few years ago I remember stating that rule, and nospam was giving
all sorts of reasons why it was a stupid thing to do.

you remember incorrectly. or you're outright lying.


Yet more proof of your well known reputation or being confrontational.

--
PeterN