If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#61
|
|||
|
|||
How to measure ISO
Eric Stevens wrote:
ideally, it's best to expose to the right without clipping any highlights. Why? http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tut...techniques.htm -- sid |
#62
|
|||
|
|||
How to measure ISO
On Thu, 05 Nov 2015 17:21:14 +0000, sid wrote:
Eric Stevens wrote: ideally, it's best to expose to the right without clipping any highlights. Why? http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tut...techniques.htm You should have left the prior paragraph in the text you quoted. viz: "As a general rule, I would also expose to the left. The D750 gives me little trouble with noise and I tend to have more trouble with burned out highs than I do with loss of detail in the shadows." This is the third case in the Cambridge tutorial you cited above. The Nikon D750 produces relatively low noise (at least compared with my old D300) and has a wide dynamic range. This does have some effect on when and where you apply the established rules. So too does the type of photography I have so far been using it for. In a different situation I would change my approach. My original comments were intended to make the point that 'expose to the right' is not a universal panacea. -- Regards, Eric Stevens |
#63
|
|||
|
|||
How to measure ISO
On Thu, 05 Nov 2015 02:45:40 -0500, nospam
wrote: In article , Eric Stevens wrote: As a general rule, I would also expose to the left. The D750 gives me little trouble with noise and I tend to have more trouble with burned out highs than I do with loss of detail in the shadows. ideally, it's best to expose to the right without clipping any highlights. Why? What do you do if, as I said, your problem *is* clipping highlights? then reduce the exposure. if you clip the highlights, they're gone. you don't want to clip highlights. Which is more or less what I said in the paragraph at the top of this article. Thank you for leaving it in. -- Regards, Eric Stevens |
#64
|
|||
|
|||
How to measure ISO
On 2015-11-05 02:42, Eric Stevens wrote:
On Wed, 04 Nov 2015 22:59:42 -0500, nospam wrote: In article , Eric Stevens wrote: That said, I'd rather underexpose by half a stop than overexpose by a stop. Well, there is a general recommendation to expose to the right, to minimise noise (also taking into account that cameras nowadays tolerate some overexposure). As a general rule, I would also expose to the left. The D750 gives me little trouble with noise and I tend to have more trouble with burned out highs than I do with loss of detail in the shadows. ideally, it's best to expose to the right without clipping any highlights. Why? What do you do if, as I said, your problem *is* clipping highlights? He's generally right as one treats digital like slide film ("expose for the highlights"). I shoot 2.3 - 2.5 stops down from HL for my a900. For the 7D, 1.7.. 2 stops down. (using spot metering in both). That said, sometimes clipped HL are necessary to get the subject nicely and exposed. |
#65
|
|||
|
|||
How to measure ISO
Eric Stevens wrote:
ideally, it's best to expose to the right without clipping any highlights. Why? http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tut...techniques.htm You should have left the prior paragraph in the text you quoted. viz: Why? You asked a question and I provided a link that explains why. End of. "As a general rule, I would also expose to the left. The D750 gives me little trouble with noise and I tend to have more trouble with burned out highs than I do with loss of detail in the shadows." This is the third case in the Cambridge tutorial you cited above. The Nikon D750 produces relatively low noise (at least compared with my old D300) and has a wide dynamic range. This does have some effect on when and where you apply the established rules. So too does the type of photography I have so far been using it for. In a different situation I would change my approach. My original comments were intended to make the point that 'expose to the right' is not a universal panacea. If you always do as nospam suggested then you will always record the maximum amount of detail with the least noise. -- sid |
#66
|
|||
|
|||
How to measure ISO
On Thu, 05 Nov 2015 22:57 +0000, sid wrote:
Eric Stevens wrote: ideally, it's best to expose to the right without clipping any highlights. Why? http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tut...techniques.htm You should have left the prior paragraph in the text you quoted. viz: Why? You asked a question and I provided a link that explains why. End of. It's not really the End of. I should have made myself more clear. In my general photographic situation I have already been doing what the Cambridge Color site advised. As I have already described I have been exposing to the left by deliberately underexposing by 1/2 stop as they advised. That doesn't mean I have been trying to cram everything down to the lefthand end. "As a general rule, I would also expose to the left. The D750 gives me little trouble with noise and I tend to have more trouble with burned out highs than I do with loss of detail in the shadows." This is the third case in the Cambridge tutorial you cited above. Sorry. It's the second case. The Nikon D750 produces relatively low noise (at least compared with my old D300) and has a wide dynamic range. This does have some effect on when and where you apply the established rules. So too does the type of photography I have so far been using it for. In a different situation I would change my approach. My original comments were intended to make the point that 'expose to the right' is not a universal panacea. If you always do as nospam suggested then you will always record the maximum amount of detail with the least noise. As I have already explained, I'm trying to avoid excessive loss of highlights and noise doesn't seem to be a problem. -- Regards, Eric Stevens |
#67
|
|||
|
|||
How to measure ISO
On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 16:57:34 -0500, Alan Browne
wrote: On 2015-11-05 02:42, Eric Stevens wrote: On Wed, 04 Nov 2015 22:59:42 -0500, nospam wrote: In article , Eric Stevens wrote: That said, I'd rather underexpose by half a stop than overexpose by a stop. Well, there is a general recommendation to expose to the right, to minimise noise (also taking into account that cameras nowadays tolerate some overexposure). As a general rule, I would also expose to the left. The D750 gives me little trouble with noise and I tend to have more trouble with burned out highs than I do with loss of detail in the shadows. ideally, it's best to expose to the right without clipping any highlights. Why? What do you do if, as I said, your problem *is* clipping highlights? He's generally right as one treats digital like slide film ("expose for the highlights"). I shoot 2.3 - 2.5 stops down from HL for my a900. For the 7D, 1.7.. 2 stops down. (using spot metering in both). That said, sometimes clipped HL are necessary to get the subject nicely and exposed. My recent problems have been due either to bright clouds or inside lighting in buildings. Also stained glass windows viewed from the inside of of buildings. -- Regards, Eric Stevens |
#68
|
|||
|
|||
How to measure ISO
On 2015-11-05 18:33, Eric Stevens wrote:
On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 16:57:34 -0500, Alan Browne wrote: On 2015-11-05 02:42, Eric Stevens wrote: On Wed, 04 Nov 2015 22:59:42 -0500, nospam wrote: In article , Eric Stevens wrote: That said, I'd rather underexpose by half a stop than overexpose by a stop. Well, there is a general recommendation to expose to the right, to minimise noise (also taking into account that cameras nowadays tolerate some overexposure). As a general rule, I would also expose to the left. The D750 gives me little trouble with noise and I tend to have more trouble with burned out highs than I do with loss of detail in the shadows. ideally, it's best to expose to the right without clipping any highlights. Why? What do you do if, as I said, your problem *is* clipping highlights? He's generally right as one treats digital like slide film ("expose for the highlights"). I shoot 2.3 - 2.5 stops down from HL for my a900. For the 7D, 1.7.. 2 stops down. (using spot metering in both). That said, sometimes clipped HL are necessary to get the subject nicely and exposed. My recent problems have been due either to bright clouds or inside lighting in buildings. Also stained glass windows viewed from the inside of of buildings. Scene DR is too high to get it all in both cases. Digital is better than slide film, but the difference from mid tone to highlight remains relatively slim. On the plus side you have much more range from mid tone to shadow with digital v. slide. For things like stained glass inside buildings I'd suggest a tripod and HDR methods. 3 images is probably enough in most cases. Same for outdoor if the subject permits. |
#69
|
|||
|
|||
How to measure ISO
On 2015-11-05 23:33:39 +0000, Eric Stevens said:
On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 16:57:34 -0500, Alan Browne wrote: On 2015-11-05 02:42, Eric Stevens wrote: On Wed, 04 Nov 2015 22:59:42 -0500, nospam wrote: In article , Eric Stevens wrote: That said, I'd rather underexpose by half a stop than overexpose by a stop. Well, there is a general recommendation to expose to the right, to minimise noise (also taking into account that cameras nowadays tolerate some overexposure). As a general rule, I would also expose to the left. The D750 gives me little trouble with noise and I tend to have more trouble with burned out highs than I do with loss of detail in the shadows. ideally, it's best to expose to the right without clipping any highlights. Why? What do you do if, as I said, your problem *is* clipping highlights? He's generally right as one treats digital like slide film ("expose for the highlights"). I shoot 2.3 - 2.5 stops down from HL for my a900. For the 7D, 1.7.. 2 stops down. (using spot metering in both). That said, sometimes clipped HL are necessary to get the subject nicely and exposed. My recent problems have been due either to bright clouds or inside lighting in buildings. Also stained glass windows viewed from the inside of of buildings. I have stained glass from the outside in. Now I need to hunt down the reverse. https://db.tt/wdLuyTuB -- Regards, Savageduck |
#70
|
|||
|
|||
How to measure ISO
On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 18:52:56 -0500, Alan Browne
wrote: On 2015-11-05 18:33, Eric Stevens wrote: On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 16:57:34 -0500, Alan Browne wrote: On 2015-11-05 02:42, Eric Stevens wrote: On Wed, 04 Nov 2015 22:59:42 -0500, nospam wrote: In article , Eric Stevens wrote: That said, I'd rather underexpose by half a stop than overexpose by a stop. Well, there is a general recommendation to expose to the right, to minimise noise (also taking into account that cameras nowadays tolerate some overexposure). As a general rule, I would also expose to the left. The D750 gives me little trouble with noise and I tend to have more trouble with burned out highs than I do with loss of detail in the shadows. ideally, it's best to expose to the right without clipping any highlights. Why? What do you do if, as I said, your problem *is* clipping highlights? He's generally right as one treats digital like slide film ("expose for the highlights"). I shoot 2.3 - 2.5 stops down from HL for my a900. For the 7D, 1.7.. 2 stops down. (using spot metering in both). That said, sometimes clipped HL are necessary to get the subject nicely and exposed. My recent problems have been due either to bright clouds or inside lighting in buildings. Also stained glass windows viewed from the inside of of buildings. Scene DR is too high to get it all in both cases. Digital is better than slide film, but the difference from mid tone to highlight remains relatively slim. On the plus side you have much more range from mid tone to shadow with digital v. slide. For things like stained glass inside buildings I'd suggest a tripod and HDR methods. 3 images is probably enough in most cases. Same for outdoor if the subject permits. See https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...03/LR---19.jpg St Peters in the 'old town' of Geneva. Hand held D300. 1/50 sec at f/6.3. Processed with LR. -- Regards, Eric Stevens |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Can one measure colour temperature with the Nikon D3? | Dave[_27_] | Digital Photography | 12 | September 8th 08 06:01 PM |
Can one measure colour temperature with the Nikon D3? | Dave[_27_] | 35mm Photo Equipment | 12 | September 8th 08 06:01 PM |
Don't measure a film! | Von Fourche | 35mm Photo Equipment | 0 | June 27th 06 11:02 AM |
5x4 - How to measure film /plate register ? | Malcolm Stewart | Large Format Photography Equipment | 3 | February 19th 05 02:07 AM |
How to measure ink(toner) usage! | AVPSoft | Digital Photography | 11 | November 9th 04 11:09 PM |