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First time owner of a 35mm Camera



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 13th 12, 05:15 PM
Alexandria07 Alexandria07 is offline
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First recorded activity by PhotoBanter: Mar 2012
Location: Montreal
Posts: 1
Smile First time owner of a 35mm Camera

Hey Everyone!!

So I bought a camera about 2 weeks ago.. I sold Digital Cameras for a little while, when I was working for Samsung, and I know that I'm no expert, but nonetheless, I can still take some pretty good pictures.. Anyways the camera I just bought is a 35mm Camera, which- apart from having those disposable Kodaks for camping trips in elementary -I've never really used. I was just wondering if you guys could maybe help me out a little.. Do I have a decent camera? Am I missing equipement? I'd love to soak in as much information as I can get!!

So this is what I've got:

- Ricoh KR-10 body
- Yashika CS-22 Auto flash
- Vivitar MC Tele-Converter 2X-22 (What is this anyways??)
- Ricoh XR Rikenon 1:2 50mm s
- Sigma Zoom
- Phototec 1 A 52mm lens
- Vanguard 52mm Polarizer lens
- Sigma Achromatic Macro lens

.. among that he gave me stuff to clean the lenses, some batteries for the camera, a carrying case, and cases for some lenses..

Can anyone help me?? It's very much appreciated!!

Alex
  #2  
Old March 13th 12, 06:14 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Peter Irwin
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Posts: 352
Default First time owner of a 35mm Camera

Alexandria07 wrote:

Do I have a decent camera?


If it is in good working order, a Ricoh SLR should be a
decent camera.

Am I missing equipment?


No, all you need to get started is the camera, the 50mm lens
and a roll of film. You may have to buy a new battery for
the light meter, and hope that the old battery hasn't made
a mess.

The first thing to do is to familiarize yourself with the
camera. Make sure you know how to load film, and also how
to rewind the film when you finish the roll. (There is a
manual available on the net at
www.butkus.org/chinon/ricoh/kr-10/kr-10.htm. People who
have used 35mm SLRs before don't need a manual because it
is basically the same as a whole bunch of cameras.)

I would suggest forgetting the flash and filters and the
zoom lens for the first few rolls. Get some 100 speed
negative film and shoot outdoors with the 50mm lens.


- Vivitar MC Tele-Converter 2X-22 (What is this anyways??)


It goes between you lens and the camera. It will turn a
50mm f/2 lens (like your Rikenon) into an 100mm f/4 lens.
The combination might make a passable portrait lens.

Peter.
--

  #3  
Old March 13th 12, 11:23 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
K W Hart
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Posts: 142
Default First time owner of a 35mm Camera


"Alexandria07" wrote in message
...

Hey Everyone!!

So I bought a camera about 2 weeks ago.. I sold Digital Cameras for a
little while, when I was working for Samsung, and I know that I'm no
expert, but nonetheless, I can still take some pretty good pictures..
Anyways the camera I just bought is a 35mm Camera, which- apart from
having those disposable Kodaks for camping trips in elementary -I've
never really used. I was just wondering if you guys could maybe help me
out a little.. Do I have a decent camera? Am I missing equipement? I'd
love to soak in as much information as I can get!!

So this is what I've got:

- Ricoh KR-10 body
- Yashika CS-22 Auto flash
- Vivitar MC Tele-Converter 2X-22 (What is this anyways??)
- Ricoh XR Rikenon 1:2 50mm s
- Sigma Zoom
- Phototec 1 A 52mm lens
- Vanguard 52mm Polarizer lens
- Sigma Achromatic Macro lens

. among that he gave me stuff to clean the lenses, some batteries for
the camera, a carrying case, and cases for some lenses..

Can anyone help me?? It's very much appreciated!!

Alex


Welcome to the wonderful world of film! You'll never go back to "the Dark
Side" (digital)!
On a scale of 1 to 10, the Ricoh is probably a 7 or 8.

Download AND READ! the instruction manual, get a cheap roll of 100 or 200
speed film, and go outside.

The easy outdoor exposure system is the "Sunny 16" rule: Set the shutter
speed equal to the film speed- for ISO 100 speed film set the shutter to
1/125. For bright sunny scenes, set the f-stop to 16. For partly cloudy
skies, use f/11. For open shade, use f/8. For deep shade, set the f-stop to
5.6.

There are three exposure controls: the film speed- whatever film type you
buy, the shutter speed- how long the shutter is open, and the f-stop- the
amount of light that gets through the lens. The higher the film speed, the
larger the film grain (fewer and bigger pixels for digital users!). The
faster the shutter speed, the better the motion stopping. The smaller the
lens opening (larger f-number) the more depth of field you have- more stuff
is in focus near to far away. If you change the shutter speed to a faster
speed, and change the f-stop to a larger lens opening (smaller number), the
exposure stays the same, but you can stop motion more. Conversely, it you go
the other way (slower shutter speed, smaller lens opening-bigger number),
you get more depth of field- more near to far away focus.

The 2X tele-converter goes between the camera and lens, and doubles the
focal length. But it cuts the light in half. The easiest way to handle this
is to divide the film speed by 2: ISO 200 becomes ISO 100.

The polarizer filter is used to cut glare. Aim the camera at a window or
body of water with sun shining on it and rotate the filter. At some point
the glare from the sun will be minimized.
The Phototec 1A 52mm lens is, I assume, a filter, probably a skylight filter
that will improve the look of sky with clouds. It it commonly used to
protect the lens.
The Macro lens is used for closeup photos.

You don't specify the focal length of the zoom lens. 50mm is considered a
normal lens. 100mm would be two power, 200mm would be four power telephoto.
25mm would be one-half power wide angle. A zoom lens is more convenient, but
usually not as sharp or as bright as a prime (single focal length) lens.

Flash photography: Absolute Important Consideration: The shutter in an SLR
is a focal plane type. It has two curtains. One curtain opens and after an
interval, the second curtain closes. If the shutter speed is fast enough,
the second curtain will start closing before the first is fully open. The
film will be exposed as a moving slit from one side to the other. When you
shoot with a flash, the shutter speed MUST be set slow enough so that the
entire film is being exposed when the flash fires. The camera may have an
"X" shutter speed; otherwise use 1/30 second as the shutter speed with
strobe flash.
The light from the flash falls off with distance from the flash. The further
the flash is from the subject, the less light will reach the subject. An
auto-flash should compensate for this light fall-off. The flash unit should
have a chart on it telling you what f-stop to use for a particular film ISO
speed, and what the maximum flash distance is.

You don't say what the lens cleaning stuff is. If it is a liquid, trash it.
The old fashioned 'breathe on the lens and wipe it with a lint-free cloth'
works well.

Hopefully this info is helpful to you.


  #4  
Old March 14th 12, 01:38 AM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Paul Furman
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Posts: 7,367
Default First time owner of a 35mm Camera

K W Hart wrote:
You don't specify the focal length of the zoom lens.


I would guess something like 75-150mm f/4 based on the vintage. At the
teleconverter to this for 150-300mm f/6.3.
  #5  
Old March 14th 12, 06:30 AM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Noons
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Posts: 3,245
Default First time owner of a 35mm Camera

Alexandria07 wrote,on my timestamp of 14/03/2012 3:15 AM:

So this is what I've got:

- Ricoh KR-10 body
- Yashika CS-22 Auto flash
- Vivitar MC Tele-Converter 2X-22 (What is this anyways??)
- Ricoh XR Rikenon 1:2 50mm s
- Sigma Zoom
- Phototec 1 A 52mm lens
- Vanguard 52mm Polarizer lens
- Sigma Achromatic Macro lens

. among that he gave me stuff to clean the lenses, some batteries for
the camera, a carrying case, and cases for some lenses..

Can anyone help me?? It's very much appreciated!!




Contrary to other recommendations here, I'd advise you to get some Fuji Xtra-400
film. It is widely available, scans into beautiful imagery and is nowadays the
same if not better than most classic old 200 ISO films.
Most of the advice you hear online is from past users of film who stopped using
it 15 years ago and never progressed from that time. The film landscape
nowadays is completely different from 3 years ago, let alone 15...

Bear in mind that unlike digital cameras where the camera body is a big part of
the imaging forming, with film cameras it's the film, the lens and you: the
camera body is just a lens carrier and a black box with a shutter, whatever the
make. Of course there are subtle differences but you'll learn about those later.

As well, go to

http://www.apug.org

and have a look at some of the forums there. Make yourself a member, it's free
and they don't spam. It is by far the best site for advice on film and its use.

Although if you want to scan it into digital images, you'll have to ask advice
somewhere else: the folks there are rabidly anti-digital in any form! I'm
surprised how they even show their images online... :-)

They have a sister site that allows digital discussions:
http://www.dpug.org
but I tend to stay away as it is also heavily populated by internet trolls and
instant "experts" who claim all sorts of things about their "pro knowledge"
without the slightest concrete proof of any of their claims.
Much like the Usenet...

Good luck and enjoy your purchase.
And always remember: it's all about the photos, not the equipment.

Cheers
http://wizofoz2k.deviantart.com/
  #6  
Old March 14th 12, 06:34 AM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Noons
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Default First time owner of a 35mm Camera

Robert Coe wrote,on my timestamp of 14/03/2012 12:17 PM:

: thing. Ricoh's were a good little camera. I think some of them had a
: verticle traveling shutter, which was used in some of the Nikon's if I'm
: not mistaken.

All of my film Nikons had a horizontal shutter, but the shutter on my wife's
Nikkormat was vertical.


From the F4 onwards they all became vertical. So was the FE2/FM2/FM3/F100.
Good for flash, lousy for stability and vibration... Although the pro models -
F4/F5/F6 - have dampened shutters that hardly ever cause any vibration issues.
  #7  
Old March 14th 12, 11:53 AM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Alex Monro
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Posts: 79
Default First time owner of a 35mm Camera

Paul Furman wrote:

K W Hart wrote:
You don't specify the focal length of the zoom lens.


I would guess something like 75-150mm f/4 based on the vintage. At the
teleconverter to this for 150-300mm f/6.3.


f/8 surely with a 2x teleconverter?
--
Alex Monro
Exeter, UK
Running on Linux (Kubuntu 10.04)
  #8  
Old March 15th 12, 12:51 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
William Hamblen
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Posts: 22
Default First time owner of a 35mm Camera

On 2012-03-14, Robert Coe wrote:

All of my film Nikons had a horizontal shutter, but the shutter on my wife's
Nikkormat was vertical.


Nikon F, F2 and F3/F3AF have horizontally running shutters. Nikon F4,
F5 and F6 have vertically running shutters. The FA, FE/FE2, FM/FM2/FM2n
and FM3a have vertically running shutters. As far as I'm aware the
autofocus bodies have vertically running shutters. The older Nikkormats
had horizontally running shutters, while the autoexposure models had
vertically running shutters.

Bud

  #9  
Old March 15th 12, 04:07 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
David Dyer-Bennet
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Posts: 1,814
Default First time owner of a 35mm Camera

William Hamblen writes:

On 2012-03-14, Robert Coe wrote:

All of my film Nikons had a horizontal shutter, but the shutter on my wife's
Nikkormat was vertical.


Nikon F, F2 and F3/F3AF have horizontally running shutters. Nikon F4,
F5 and F6 have vertically running shutters. The FA, FE/FE2, FM/FM2/FM2n
and FM3a have vertically running shutters. As far as I'm aware the
autofocus bodies have vertically running shutters. The older Nikkormats
had horizontally running shutters, while the autoexposure models had
vertically running shutters.


I believe all the Nikkormats had vertical shutters. The Ft, which was
quite early, is described as having a vertical shutter and 1/125 sec
flash sync in multiple online sources, for example. I remember the FTN
as having 1/125 sync as well, and I believe that was always a sign of
a vertical shutter.
--
David Dyer-Bennet, ; http://dd-b.net/
Snapshots: http://dd-b.net/dd-b/SnapshotAlbum/data/
Photos: http://dd-b.net/photography/gallery/
Dragaera: http://dragaera.info
  #10  
Old March 15th 12, 05:19 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Geoffrey S. Mendelson
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Posts: 450
Default First time owner of a 35mm Camera

David Dyer-Bennet wrote:


I believe all the Nikkormats had vertical shutters. The Ft, which was
quite early, is described as having a vertical shutter and 1/125 sec
flash sync in multiple online sources, for example. I remember the FTN
as having 1/125 sync as well, and I believe that was always a sign of
a vertical shutter.


Yes. I think the Ft was the first. It's predecssor was the Nikkorex F, which
was made by Mamiya for Nikon. I believe the shutter was made by Copal.

The Nikkormat Ftn, was an Ft with center weighted metering. This matched the
metering of the Photomic Ftn finder on the F.

The same shutter was used in all the Nikkormats (Ft, FTn, Ft2, Ft3) and an
electronicaly timed version was used in the EL and EL2.

If not the same, very similar shutters were used in the FM and FE.

The cameras with curtain shutters (F/F2/F3) had a top flash sync of 1/90th.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM
My high blood pressure medicine reduces my midichlorian count. :-(


 




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