Low-light spotmeters

Rich Pos wrote:

On Wed, 08 Sep 2004 21:00:41 +0100, Donald A. Morrison
wrote:


Mostly for landscape photography, at dusk and twilight. From time to time I
also photography urban architecture, also after sunset (or before sunrise).


Meter off the brightest part of the scene then compensate.
I.E. Meter streetlight ....
-5 stops for scene exposure (just an example) This way your meter

Do you mean metering the light itself?

From my way of seeing it, it would be the opposite ... if you
point a meter at a light, it believes there's more light than
there really is on the scene... not sure about your number of
stops, but let's assume 5 stops is correct:

point at light, read: 1/500 f/8

So open up (+5) stops to shoot the scene... 1/15 f/8


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In message
Alan Browne wrote:

Donald A. Morrison wrote:


Mostly for landscape photography, at dusk and twilight. From time to time I
also photography urban architecture, also after sunset (or before sunrise).

Well, then don't bother metering. It's not needed. Further, a
lot of these shots are up at about EV 8 - 11 in any case. See
the links below to convert the EV into speed and f/stop for your
film.

(Or compute it based on EV = 1 stop where EV 0 = f/1.0 for 1
second at ISO 100.)

[snip]

Many thanks for your suggestions. This will be a lot of help for a good many
of my shots. I'll still be in a bit of a fix in some situations however, I
use the spotmeter to try and assign precise tonal values at exposure time.
Quite often this means making a meter reading of EV -2 (and sometimes below).

Unfortunately it seems that there is no currently available meter which
reads down this low. Many thanks to all who made suggestions though, very
much appreciated.

Donald.

--
Donald A Morrison

In message
Alan Browne wrote:

Donald A. Morrison wrote:


Mostly for landscape photography, at dusk and twilight. From time to time I
also photography urban architecture, also after sunset (or before sunrise).

Well, then don't bother metering. It's not needed. Further, a
lot of these shots are up at about EV 8 - 11 in any case. See
the links below to convert the EV into speed and f/stop for your
film.

(Or compute it based on EV = 1 stop where EV 0 = f/1.0 for 1
second at ISO 100.)

[snip]

Many thanks for your suggestions. This will be a lot of help for a good many
of my shots. I'll still be in a bit of a fix in some situations however, I
use the spotmeter to try and assign precise tonal values at exposure time.
Quite often this means making a meter reading of EV -2 (and sometimes below).

Unfortunately it seems that there is no currently available meter which
reads down this low. Many thanks to all who made suggestions though, very
much appreciated.

Donald.

--
Donald A Morrison