Kodabrome III RC

I was wondering what kind of developer I could use with this, ofcourse
they list Kodak developers , but could I use Arista, etc? Also, it's
graded paper, I've only used RC and I'm having trouble finding out the
difference. I think F3 is for low-contrast negatives, so would this be
good for printing from color negatives?

Thanks,
Jeff

On 27 Jun 2006 09:39:40 -0700, "Jeph" wrote:

I was wondering what kind of developer I could use with this, ofcourse
they list Kodak developers , but could I use Arista, etc? Also, it's
graded paper, I've only used RC and I'm having trouble finding out the
difference. I think F3 is for low-contrast negatives, so would this be
good for printing from color negatives?

Thanks,
Jeff

Kodabrome III RC ? Never knew they made one. Kodabrome II RC was made
well into the late 90's. In any case you can use any
standard/universal paper developer such as Ilford PQ Universal.

The "F" is the surface, glossy in this case, and the 3 is the grade.
It should work well with slightly softer than normal negatives though
this really depends more on light source. Condenser vs. diffusion. The
great thing about graded RC's is that they worked really well with the
co-called "cold light" heads such as those using Aristo light sources.
Ilford's version is called Ilfospeed RC Deluxe and is available in
glossy, semi-matt and pearl surfaces. Given that Kodak has given
little thought to abandoning the artistic photographer community, I
prefer to use Ilford products whenever possible.

==
John S. Douglas
Photographer & Webmaster
www.legacy-photo,com
www.xs750.net

Well, I couldn't pass up 300 pre-cut 5x7" for $2.00 (plus $7) shipping.
I'll see how they work out.

John wrote:
On 27 Jun 2006 09:39:40 -0700, "Jeph" wrote:

I was wondering what kind of developer I could use with this, ofcourse
they list Kodak developers , but could I use Arista, etc? Also, it's
graded paper, I've only used RC and I'm having trouble finding out the
difference. I think F3 is for low-contrast negatives, so would this be
good for printing from color negatives?

Thanks,
Jeff

Kodabrome III RC ? Never knew they made one. Kodabrome II RC was made
well into the late 90's. In any case you can use any
standard/universal paper developer such as Ilford PQ Universal.

The "F" is the surface, glossy in this case, and the 3 is the grade.
It should work well with slightly softer than normal negatives though
this really depends more on light source. Condenser vs. diffusion. The
great thing about graded RC's is that they worked really well with the
co-called "cold light" heads such as those using Aristo light sources.
Ilford's version is called Ilfospeed RC Deluxe and is available in
glossy, semi-matt and pearl surfaces. Given that Kodak has given
little thought to abandoning the artistic photographer community, I
prefer to use Ilford products whenever possible.

==
John S. Douglas
Photographer & Webmaster
www.legacy-photo,com
www.xs750.net

Jeph wrote:
I was wondering what kind of developer I could use with this, ofcourse
they list Kodak developers , but could I use Arista, etc? Also, it's
graded paper, I've only used RC and I'm having trouble finding out the
difference. I think F3 is for low-contrast negatives, so would this be
good for printing from color negatives?

Thanks,
Jeff

F3 (especially if an older batch) should work fine for most color
negatives, scenes shot on contrastier films or with high contrast
ligting would be better with a F2 paper but try it and see, you might
also be able to pre-flash your paper to lower the contrast a bit. And
standard paper developer will be fine but I have a Kodak Royal Print
processor I'll give you (you'll just need to find a source for the
chemicals!). LOL

On Thu, 29 Jun 2006 10:20:46 -0500,
darkroommike
wrote:

I have a Kodak Royal Print
processor I'll give you (you'll just need to find a source for the
chemicals!). LOL



June 30, 2006, from Lloyd Erlick,

This may be more practical than it seems.

I'm pretty sure I remember that the first
chemical was an activator, so basically (haw)
a solution of carbonate or hydroxide or
something should work. And if one wants to
work under safelight, the second chemical
(stabilizer) can be omitted and the prints
fixed as normal prints. Fixing instead of
stabilizing results in much longer lasting
prints.

Most RC materials are developer-incorporated
(DI), so they work in an activation system.

I think if anyone is going to invest in such
a free machine they should research the
things I've said; I don't want to be
responsible for making good on the purchase
price...!

regards,
--le
________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
website: www.heylloyd.com
telephone: 416-686-0326
email:
________________________________
--

"Jeph" wrote in message
oups.com...
I was wondering what kind of developer I could use with
this, ofcourse
they list Kodak developers , but could I use Arista, etc?
Also, it's
graded paper, I've only used RC and I'm having trouble
finding out the
difference. I think F3 is for low-contrast negatives, so
would this be
good for printing from color negatives?

Thanks,
Jeff

The problem with printing from color negatives is that
both graded and variable contrast paper are sensitive to a
rather narrow spectrum of blue (graded) or blue and some
green (VC). In addition, the contrast of VC paper varies
with the color. You can make a test print with either to
find out what is on the negative but the tone rendition will
be seriously distorted. In the past Kodak and others made
panchromatic paper especially for printing color negatives,
but AFAIK, none is on the market now.
Kodabrome is a graded paper and has very little response
beyond blue. I've tried VC papers, including all the "magic"
filter combinations, but can not get better than rather poor
prints from color negatives. OTOH, when panchromatic paper
was available I got beutiful prints from it. I think those
who want B&W from color negative are just stuck:-(


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA