Eclipse

I'm planning on taking some pics of the eclipse thats occuring tonight. I
have a tripod and a pentax k1000 with a 50mm 1:2 lens. I 've never taken a
photo of the sky at night at all. I think I will be able to get some
decent pics of it. I have 800 spd kodak film in my camera right now, I was
thinking of getting some 100 speed kodak film too prior to doing this,
however I've heard that positive film is good for night sky photos too,
anyone think it'd be worth the effort of picking it up instead or color
negative film? I think that I've seen something called 'superchrome' or
something like that, never shot with any postive film before. I guess I'll
only be getting slides from that tho, no light table maybe there's an old
projector around here somewhere, so maybe thats not really worth it.

I don't have a 'remote trigger' or whatever for my camera either.

So this might prove interesting, anyone can think of a particular tip? I'm
planning on dropping the shutter speed down pretty low and, as i've heard,
'bracketing the hell out of it'. Whats the deal with the 'B' setting tho?

"R.Schenck" wrote ...
I'm planning on taking some pics of the eclipse thats occuring tonight. I
have a tripod and a pentax k1000 with a 50mm 1:2 lens. I 've never taken
a
photo of the sky at night at all. I think I will be able to get some
decent pics of it.

-------------------------------

A 50mm lens is far too short to get a meaningful photo. That won't stop you
from enjoying the sight, however.

Rob

In message i8Wfd.46522$Pl.25889@pd7tw1no - "Basic Wedge"
writes:
:
:"R.Schenck" wrote ...
: I'm planning on taking some pics of the eclipse thats occuring tonight. I
: have a tripod and a pentax k1000 with a 50mm 1:2 lens. I 've never taken
: a
: photo of the sky at night at all. I think I will be able to get some
: decent pics of it.
:
:-------------------------------
:
:A 50mm lens is far too short to get a meaningful photo. That won't stop you
:from enjoying the sight, however.
:
:Rob
:
:

Taking a multiple exposure picture showing the moon at different phase and
points in the sky might be interesting to try. You should get fairly wide
coverage with 50mm lens.

We've got solid cloud cover here, can't see anything

Rob
www.rcp.ca

rob choreographed a chorus line of high-kicking electrons to spell out:


We've got solid cloud cover here, can't see anything

Same where I am. Maybe the back half will be better though.

--
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S Lee wrote:

rob choreographed a chorus line of high-kicking electrons to spell out:

We've got solid cloud cover here, can't see anything

Same where I am. Maybe the back half will be better though.

We had clear skies in Pittsburgh. I got this shot around 11:15
http://www.robertstech.com/temp/red_moon.jpg

--
Mark Roberts
Photography and writing
www.robertstech.com

(Mark=A0Roberts) wrote:
We had clear skies in Pittsburgh. I got this shot around 11:15
http://www.robertstech.com/temp/red_moon.jpg
--
Mark Roberts
Photography and writing
www.robertstech.com
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

Nice shot. What lens did you use? Film or digital?



Cody,

http://community-2.webtv.net/AnOverc...otographyLinks

rob choreographed a chorus line of high-kicking electrons to spell out:


We've got solid cloud cover here, can't see anything

Same where I am. Maybe the back half will be better though.

--
______________A L L D O N E ! B Y E B Y E !_________________
| __ "The Internet is where lunatics are
| (__ * _ _ _ _ internetworked worldwide at the speed of light.
| __)|| | |(_)| \ *This* is progress?" --J. Shinal

"Basic Wedge" wrote in message
news:i8Wfd.46522$Pl.25889@pd7tw1no...
"R.Schenck" wrote ...
I'm planning on taking some pics of the eclipse thats occuring tonight.
I
have a tripod and a pentax k1000 with a 50mm 1:2 lens. I 've never taken
a
photo of the sky at night at all. I think I will be able to get some
decent pics of it.

-------------------------------

A 50mm lens is far too short to get a meaningful photo. That won't stop
you from enjoying the sight, however.

Right -- the moon will be pinpoint-sized on a picture taken with a 50-mm
lens. If you can multiple-expose, you might get an interesting sequence as
the moon moves across the sky.

Do you have any kind of telescope or binoculars? If so, simply aim the
camera into the eyepiece. Try a very wide range of exposures.


--
Clear skies,

Michael A. Covington
Author, Astrophotography for the Amateur
www.covingtoninnovations.com/astromenu.html

Just got back from shooting it.I used part of an 800 spd and a roll of 400
spd kodak, I jumped around with the times from 125 down to 1 and all around
inbetween with different apetures throughout. Maybe not the most
systematic way to go about it, but I figure that way I'll at least get some
decent shots. I shot a bunch at 'maximum apeture' so I'll see how that
turns out. I'll also probably be taking the film to a photoshop rather
than a convience processing place and let them know what I did. I also
took some shots of the cities across the water, I figure if they put out so
much light, might as well make use of it. I /think/ that I might be able
to crop and magnify the scans of some of them to get something nice out of
it, but yeah, the 50mm lens seems to include a lot of stuff, its all a
little 'distant' looking. THen the clouds came in, but I got a good bit of
the end of the eclipsing and a bunch of the 'pumpkin moon'.

A worthy thing to try out I think tho! Thanks for the advice from the
responders.

In article ,
R.Schenck wrote:
Just got back from shooting it.I used part of an 800 spd and a roll of 400
spd kodak, I jumped around with the times from 125 down to 1 and all around
inbetween with different apetures throughout. Maybe not the most
systematic way to go about it, but I figure that way I'll at least get some
decent shots.

As the Moon is illuminated by sunlight, one stop under Sunny f/16 is a good
rule of thumb for exposing the (uneclipsed) Moon.

Near totality, you'll need a longer exposure if you want to cature the deep
red part. This will blow the white part out, however. This suggests that,
for detail in the white area, you'd ideally want to bracket around 1/1500,
f/8 with 800 ISO film.