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The new C-41 films..
The little bit of research I have done shows that both Kodak and Fuji
have some new c-41 color neg films out. I've ordered 5 rolls of both the Ektar 100 and Fuji 160C to see which I like. I shoot mostly landscapes and like saturated colors. The main reason I like color neg film is for the exposure latitude, especially when using old gear with questionable shutter speed accuracy. Plus I can think more about composing and not be frantic about nailing the exposure perfect that slide film requires. Plus DR prints from chromes are a headache compared to RA-4 printing. In the past I always aimed for 1/2 to 1 stop over exposure to be safe but not sure how these new films respond. I've read ektar is picky about exposure and needs to be treated more like it's iso 80 slide film to get good results? And I read that the fuji 160C is more lenient to exposure errors, which might suit me better. I know in the past I hated the results I got from films like 160NPS so I doubt I would care for a low contrast "portrait" type film now any better. My favorite film was agfa ultra 50, which of course is gone. Anyway just thought this might stir some conversation relevant to medium format cameras instead of the typical digital discussion.. Stephanie |
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The new C-41 films..
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#4
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The new C-41 films..
Alan Browne wrote:
If you have a spot meter, meter the shadow detail for about -3 and you'll be very safe. What's a light meter? Stephanie |
#5
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The new C-41 films..
On Sun, 28 Feb 2010 16:11:35 -0500, Alan Browne
wrote: For slide film one can bracket - not for safety, but for use. As such thinner (higher exposure) for scanning and thicker for projection. (1/3 to 2/3 apart). I just ran a roll of Fuji Velvia 100 through an old Kodak Brownie flash model, including a few flash shots. I'm anxious to see the results, considering how little control you have with a Brownie. |
#6
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The new C-41 films..
On 10-03-01 0:49 , wrote:
Alan Browne wrote: If you have a spot meter, meter the shadow detail for about -3 and you'll be very safe. What's a light meter? Easier to carry around than a heavy meter. I take your point, in the southwest US I exposed about 20 rolls of 120 and I used my meter on less than a dozen shots. You can also use http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.ht...ensity%20Chart and http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.ht...%20CHA RT%20B in the absence of a meter with remarkably accurate results. However, critical placement of highlights on slide film does require a spot meter for consistently usable results. -- gmail originated posts are filtered due to spam. |
#7
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The new C-41 films..
rwalker wrote:
On Sun, 28 Feb 2010 16:11:35 -0500, Alan Browne wrote: For slide film one can bracket - not for safety, but for use. As such thinner (higher exposure) for scanning and thicker for projection. (1/3 to 2/3 apart). I just ran a roll of Fuji Velvia 100 through an old Kodak Brownie flash model, including a few flash shots. I'm anxious to see the results, considering how little control you have with a Brownie. I've had fun shooting B&W film in old box cameras, you never know if you might luck into good exposures with that brownie :-) Stephanie |
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The new C-41 films..
Noons wrote:
On Mar 1, 4:49 pm, " wrote: Alan Browne wrote: If you have a spot meter, meter the shadow detail for about -3 and you'll be very safe. What's a light meter? Stephanie LOL! That'll hurt... I got to where I usually didn't need a light meter shooting outdoors with print film, most of it seems to be pretty lax about exposure or I'm good at guessing.. I sure wouldn't be using print film if it requires a spot meter!! For that matter I never had a need for a spot meter shooting slide film, a basic incidence meter and knowing how to use it should work.. I'm using now mostly Ektar100 and Portra400 for colour negatives. Stopped using 160NPS and NPC essentially because they are not very scanner friendly. Or rather: they show horrible scan aliasing "grain", whereas the Kodak film doesn't. I guess that is one film area where Fuji has dropped the ball compared to Kodak. Of course: nothing is absolute with film, so keep an ear out for improvements on the Fuji side. This new fuji 160's are supposed to be more scanner friendly? As for exposu I use spot-on rather than the usual "overexpose colour negative". Most of those recommendations come from decades ago, when indeed they were useful. I found I got snappier looking colors, more contrast and less visible grain on the over exposure side of things when optically printing. Maybe with scanning film it's a problem? I'm not sure yet if I am going to ditch optically printing film, I got fairly good at RA4 printing and I know it's archival.. I wouldn't bother with modern film like Portra and Ektar: expose it spot-on the makers claim and only change if you really need an improvement in shadow detail. OK I'll try that as a starting point... |
#9
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The new C-41 films..
Alan Browne wrote:
On 10-03-01 0:49 , wrote: Alan Browne wrote: If you have a spot meter, meter the shadow detail for about -3 and you'll be very safe. What's a light meter? However, critical placement of highlights on slide film does require a spot meter for consistently usable results. Thanks for a confusing response. :-) You say to meter the shadows in one post, then talk about how critical metering the highlights are in the next.. Then talk about how you don't use a meter. Guess that covers all the bases.. Have you actually shot any of these films in my original post? It's not like I have never shot film before and was asking for a basic primer on how to use film here. I was asking for responses from someone who has actually shot with either of these themselves, if what I have read about the new ektar film is true etc. Stephanie |
#10
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The new C-41 films..
wrote:
I've had fun shooting B&W film in old box cameras, you never know if you might luck into good exposures with that brownie :-) Assuming the person operating the printing machine has any idea of what they are doing, you should be able to get an exposure latitude of +4,-2 stops out of a C-41 film. -2 stops will give you a lower quality picture, -1 will be almost the same as correct, and over exposure will give you more saturated colors. Depending upon the film, bad things will start to happen at about 3 stops over (2 with some films), but there will be a useable picture. The new higher contrast films probably have a narrower range. Black and white film was stuck at ASA 80 for a long time, a Brownie will probably do ok with ISO 100 film. Before WWII and the advent of gold doping Black and White film was just under ASA 40 (though there were faster ones). I remember taking good shots with Verichrome Pan (ASA 125) in a Brownie in the 1960's. I expect that regular ISO 100 C-41 film will do as well. Geoff. -- Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM New word I coined 12/13/09, "Sub-Wikipedia" adj, describing knowledge or understanding, as in he has a sub-wikipedia understanding of the situation. i.e possessing less facts or information than can be found in the Wikipedia. |
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