A Photography forum. PhotoBanter.com

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Go Back   Home » PhotoBanter.com forum » Photo Techniques » Photographing People
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

HeadShots!



 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old March 9th 05, 05:07 PM
Al Dykes
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default HeadShots!


Has anyone got any tips for some that's been asked to photograph
someone and produce theatrical headshots with minimal equipment ? I
use a dRebel, the 50mm 1.8 (effectivly a 90mm) and the 28-135 zoom,
but no lighting equipment. I'm not going to do the printing, I'll
send it to an internet printer.

I've been asked to shoot an acquaintance and I'd like to give ot a try
for the experince but I'm not going to give him crap. I'll send him
to someone that I know that specializes in model/acting headshots.
--

a d y k e s @ p a n i x . c o m

Don't blame me. I voted for Gore.
  #2  
Old March 9th 05, 07:35 PM
Joe Marcus
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


I've been asked to shoot an acquaintance and I'd like to give ot a try
for the experince but I'm not going to give him crap. I'll send him
to someone that I know that specializes in model/acting headshots.


If he is a friend then doing some experimenting on lighting and posing
is a great idea -- but then send him to a professional... To do a proper
studio headshot you need lighting and have a working knowledge of how to
use it - otherwise you will not be able to give your friend good quality
images.

--
Joe Marcus
Marcus Photography
1501 Spring Garden Street
Easton, PA 18042-3143
610-258-1407 - Phone
610-393-0792 - Cellular

http://www.marcusphotography.com

Creating outstanding images for Festivals & Events around the United
States. Location photography for advertising, promotion, fireworks
companies, theatre and concert.

  #3  
Old March 10th 05, 09:10 AM
zeitgeist
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Has anyone got any tips for some that's been asked to photograph
someone and produce theatrical headshots with minimal equipment ? I
use a dRebel, the 50mm 1.8 (effectivly a 90mm) and the 28-135 zoom,
but no lighting equipment. I'm not going to do the printing, I'll
send it to an internet printer.

I've been asked to shoot an acquaintance and I'd like to give ot a try
for the experince but I'm not going to give him crap. I'll send him
to someone that I know that specializes in model/acting headshots.
--


the best headshots are done with a super soft shadowless light. You can
spend a bunch for lights, or you can open the garage door, front door can
work too. If you live in apartment, then look for similar large open shade
with an overhang.

the secret to finding the sweet spot is the concept of penumbra, that area
between full light and shadow. have your subject, (or just use your hand)
and move it back away from the full opening, *just* as the light starts to
fall off.

You should see the skin glow and the eyes shine.

use the 50, wide open, but step back, you only need 3mp for a decent 8x10,
so plan on cropping, 50 is still a normal angle which is too wide for
headshots, backing up and cropping will limit distortion, keep the face
perpendicular to the camera, imagine a sheet of cardboard over the face, | -
| see what I'm saying?


  #4  
Old March 10th 05, 08:40 PM
Al Dykes
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article ,
zeitgeist wrote:
Has anyone got any tips for some that's been asked to photograph
someone and produce theatrical headshots with minimal equipment ? I
use a dRebel, the 50mm 1.8 (effectivly a 90mm) and the 28-135 zoom,
but no lighting equipment. I'm not going to do the printing, I'll
send it to an internet printer.

I've been asked to shoot an acquaintance and I'd like to give ot a try
for the experince but I'm not going to give him crap. I'll send him
to someone that I know that specializes in model/acting headshots.
--


the best headshots are done with a super soft shadowless light. You can
spend a bunch for lights, or you can open the garage door, front door can
work too. If you live in apartment, then look for similar large open shade
with an overhang.

the secret to finding the sweet spot is the concept of penumbra, that area
between full light and shadow. have your subject, (or just use your hand)
and move it back away from the full opening, *just* as the light starts to
fall off.

You should see the skin glow and the eyes shine.

use the 50, wide open, but step back, you only need 3mp for a decent 8x10,
so plan on cropping, 50 is still a normal angle which is too wide for
headshots, backing up and cropping will limit distortion, keep the face
perpendicular to the camera, imagine a sheet of cardboard over the face, | -
| see what I'm saying?




My dRebel has a 1.6x multiplication factor so it's really a 90mm, but
nice and fast. IMO a real 50mm lens is too short for face shots. I'm
not sure if you mean a 50mm lens or field-of-view equal to a 50mm lens
on a 35mm frame. I can use the kit zoom at 35mm which would be about
50mm, effectivly but the DOF will be deeper and IMO the 50 prime is
better, optically.

What about the on-camera flash? I'll pick a spot with decent natural
light as you describe and I can pop open the flash and put something
over it as a difuser. The camera frame will be vertical so it will be
a bit of a side light. the dRebel flash is a higher than the flash is
on a P&S and redeye has not been a problem.

I've seen references to small flash-synced slave flashes and I
wouldn't mind picking one up but I haven't figured out how you trigger
it without getting too much flash from the on-camera flash.

I'll have my laptop with PS on it with me so we can look at shots as
we go.

Thanks.

--

a d y k e s @ p a n i x . c o m

Don't blame me. I voted for Gore.
  #5  
Old March 11th 05, 05:30 AM
Marc 182
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article , says...
In article ,
zeitgeist wrote:
Has anyone got any tips for some that's been asked to photograph
someone and produce theatrical headshots with minimal equipment ? I
use a dRebel, the 50mm 1.8 (effectivly a 90mm) and the 28-135 zoom,
but no lighting equipment. I'm not going to do the printing, I'll
send it to an internet printer.

I've been asked to shoot an acquaintance and I'd like to give ot a try
for the experince but I'm not going to give him crap. I'll send him
to someone that I know that specializes in model/acting headshots.
--


the best headshots are done with a super soft shadowless light. You can
spend a bunch for lights, or you can open the garage door, front door can
work too. If you live in apartment, then look for similar large open shade
with an overhang.

the secret to finding the sweet spot is the concept of penumbra, that area
between full light and shadow. have your subject, (or just use your hand)
and move it back away from the full opening, *just* as the light starts to
fall off.

You should see the skin glow and the eyes shine.

use the 50, wide open, but step back, you only need 3mp for a decent 8x10,
so plan on cropping, 50 is still a normal angle which is too wide for
headshots, backing up and cropping will limit distortion, keep the face
perpendicular to the camera, imagine a sheet of cardboard over the face, | -
| see what I'm saying?




My dRebel has a 1.6x multiplication factor so it's really a 90mm, but
nice and fast. IMO a real 50mm lens is too short for face shots. I'm
not sure if you mean a 50mm lens or field-of-view equal to a 50mm lens
on a 35mm frame. I can use the kit zoom at 35mm which would be about
50mm, effectivly but the DOF will be deeper and IMO the 50 prime is
better, optically.


You're right, with the 1.6x factor a 50mm is about perfect for head
shots (85mm is the typical recommendation).

What about the on-camera flash? I'll pick a spot with decent natural
light as you describe and I can pop open the flash and put something
over it as a difuser. The camera frame will be vertical so it will be
a bit of a side light. the dRebel flash is a higher than the flash is
on a P&S and redeye has not been a problem.


I'm not sure if you can rig a diffuser over the tiny built-in flash.
Still, if you're in bright open shade and portrait mode, your Rebel will
do a nice job of balancing flash with day light.

I've seen references to small flash-synced slave flashes and I
wouldn't mind picking one up but I haven't figured out how you trigger
it without getting too much flash from the on-camera flash.


Is your popup flash E-TTL? I don't know on the Rebel-D. If it is it
puts out a tiny preflash to judge exposure. That preflash will trigger
the slaves early and they won't be of any use.

If it doesn't preflash (TTL, not E-TTL), you can use the little slaves
to help out. The camera will automatically compensate for their extra
light output by quenching the on-camera flash early. Balance is tricky,
but you can use your LCD screen to judge.

I'll have my laptop with PS on it with me so we can look at shots as
we go.


I like to connect my 10D to a TV monitor while shooting. The annoying
extra cable is more than made up for by the large instant review.

Marc
  #6  
Old March 11th 05, 07:30 AM
zeitgeist
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default



Has anyone got any tips for some that's been asked to photograph
someone and produce theatrical headshots with minimal equipment ? I
use a dRebel, the 50mm 1.8 (effectivly a 90mm) and the 28-135 zoom,
but no lighting equipment. I'm not going to do the printing, I'll
send it to an internet printer.

I've been asked to shoot an acquaintance and I'd like to give ot a try
for the experince but I'm not going to give him crap. I'll send him
to someone that I know that specializes in model/acting headshots.
--


the best headshots are done with a super soft shadowless light. You can
spend a bunch for lights, or you can open the garage door, front door can
work too. If you live in apartment, then look for similar large open

shade
with an overhang.

the secret to finding the sweet spot is the concept of penumbra, that

area
between full light and shadow. have your subject, (or just use your

hand)
and move it back away from the full opening, *just* as the light starts

to
fall off.

You should see the skin glow and the eyes shine.

use the 50, wide open, but step back, you only need 3mp for a decent

8x10,
so plan on cropping, 50 is still a normal angle which is too wide for
headshots, backing up and cropping will limit distortion, keep the face
perpendicular to the camera, imagine a sheet of cardboard over the face,

| -
| see what I'm saying?





What about the on-camera flash? I'll pick a spot with decent natural
light as you describe and I can pop open the flash and put something
over it as a difuser. The camera frame will be vertical so it will be
a bit of a side light. the dRebel flash is a higher than the flash is
on a P&S and redeye has not been a problem.


what are you, a wedding photographer? You will take my advice to find the
sweetest softest shadowless light, but then you are going to F it up with a
flash.

I've seen references to small flash-synced slave flashes and I
wouldn't mind picking one up but I haven't figured out how you trigger
it without getting too much flash from the on-camera flash.


those are great...for wedding photos, in fact I've suggested them many times
as a great way to improve groups, and get more detail from the dress.

I'll have my laptop with PS on it with me so we can look at shots as
we go.


check out a BBC documentary on Beauty, its really quite fascinating and it
has a segment where some guy called the Hollywood headshot king does a few
sessions. You'll see exactly what I'm talking about.

I also officiate weddings and quite often I see photogs take a wonderful
situation and ruin it. A wedding on a farm, a bridge across the lake, the
late afternoon sun hidden behind some trees, in short a perfect set up, the
couple looked at each other, her hair on fire, their eyes sparkling, their
skin glowing. The photog with a hasselblad and a tripod was perfectly set,
I was looking at a merit print in the making, then the guy held up a big
flash. I casually mentioned, "gee, doesn't the light look wonderful the way
it is? Why don't you try one without the flash." They guy rolled his eyes,
and I must admit I hate it when some pest, I mean guest, tries to talk
business with me when I'm behind the camera, and says "I just want to be
sure..." Sometimes my tongue bleeds from biting on it...


  #7  
Old March 11th 05, 03:58 PM
Al Dykes
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article ,
zeitgeist wrote:


Has anyone got any tips for some that's been asked to photograph
someone and produce theatrical headshots with minimal equipment ? I
use a dRebel, the 50mm 1.8 (effectivly a 90mm) and the 28-135 zoom,
but no lighting equipment. I'm not going to do the printing, I'll
send it to an internet printer.

I've been asked to shoot an acquaintance and I'd like to give ot a try
for the experince but I'm not going to give him crap. I'll send him
to someone that I know that specializes in model/acting headshots.
--


the best headshots are done with a super soft shadowless light. You can
spend a bunch for lights, or you can open the garage door, front door can
work too. If you live in apartment, then look for similar large open

shade
with an overhang.

the secret to finding the sweet spot is the concept of penumbra, that

area
between full light and shadow. have your subject, (or just use your

hand)
and move it back away from the full opening, *just* as the light starts

to
fall off.

You should see the skin glow and the eyes shine.

use the 50, wide open, but step back, you only need 3mp for a decent

8x10,
so plan on cropping, 50 is still a normal angle which is too wide for
headshots, backing up and cropping will limit distortion, keep the face
perpendicular to the camera, imagine a sheet of cardboard over the face,

| -
| see what I'm saying?





What about the on-camera flash? I'll pick a spot with decent natural
light as you describe and I can pop open the flash and put something
over it as a difuser. The camera frame will be vertical so it will be
a bit of a side light. the dRebel flash is a higher than the flash is
on a P&S and redeye has not been a problem.


what are you, a wedding photographer? You will take my advice to find the
sweetest softest shadowless light, but then you are going to F it up with a
flash.

I've seen references to small flash-synced slave flashes and I
wouldn't mind picking one up but I haven't figured out how you trigger
it without getting too much flash from the on-camera flash.


those are great...for wedding photos, in fact I've suggested them many times
as a great way to improve groups, and get more detail from the dress.

I'll have my laptop with PS on it with me so we can look at shots as
we go.


check out a BBC documentary on Beauty, its really quite fascinating and it
has a segment where some guy called the Hollywood headshot king does a few
sessions. You'll see exactly what I'm talking about.

I also officiate weddings and quite often I see photogs take a wonderful
situation and ruin it. A wedding on a farm, a bridge across the lake, the
late afternoon sun hidden behind some trees, in short a perfect set up, the
couple looked at each other, her hair on fire, their eyes sparkling, their
skin glowing. The photog with a hasselblad and a tripod was perfectly set,
I was looking at a merit print in the making, then the guy held up a big
flash. I casually mentioned, "gee, doesn't the light look wonderful the way
it is? Why don't you try one without the flash." They guy rolled his eyes,
and I must admit I hate it when some pest, I mean guest, tries to talk
business with me when I'm behind the camera, and says "I just want to be
sure..." Sometimes my tongue bleeds from biting on it...




But it's just a tiny little flash! g

Thanks for the comments.


--

a d y k e s @ p a n i x . c o m

Don't blame me. I voted for Gore.
  #8  
Old March 12th 05, 01:56 PM
Patrick Cleburne
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Al Dykes" wrote in message
...


Don't blame me. I voted for Gore.


And if he'd won, you'd posting in Arabic...that's when the electricity was
working.

Cleburne


  #9  
Old March 13th 05, 12:37 AM
beaver
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Patrick Cleburne" wrote in message
k.net...

"Al Dykes" wrote in message
...


Don't blame me. I voted for Gore.


And if he'd won, you'd posting in Arabic...that's when the electricity was
working.

Cleburne

What a total cretin! with an understanding of global politics at that level
you should be tucked up in bed with a comic. The reality of the wider world
will always baffle you therefore you will post total garbage as a way of
fending off your inability to truly understand anything about history,
politics and global dynamics.

Regardless of who won the election amerikans would not post in Arabic, they
would never be able to learn such a complex and highly structured language!

B


  #10  
Old March 29th 06, 12:57 AM posted to rec.photo.technique.people
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default HeadShots!

In article , (Al Dykes)
wrote:

In article ,
zeitgeist wrote:
Has anyone got any tips for some that's been asked to photograph
someone and produce theatrical headshots with minimal equipment ? I
use a dRebel, the 50mm 1.8 (effectivly a 90mm) and the 28-135 zoom,
but no lighting equipment. I'm not going to do the printing, I'll
send it to an internet printer.

I've been asked to shoot an acquaintance and I'd like to give ot a try
for the experince but I'm not going to give him crap. I'll send him
to someone that I know that specializes in model/acting headshots.
--


the best headshots are done with a super soft shadowless light. You can
spend a bunch for lights, or you can open the garage door, front door can
work too. If you live in apartment, then look for similar large open shade
with an overhang.

the secret to finding the sweet spot is the concept of penumbra, that area
between full light and shadow. have your subject, (or just use your hand)
and move it back away from the full opening, *just* as the light starts to
fall off.

You should see the skin glow and the eyes shine.

use the 50, wide open, but step back, you only need 3mp for a decent 8x10,
so plan on cropping, 50 is still a normal angle which is too wide for
headshots, backing up and cropping will limit distortion, keep the face
perpendicular to the camera, imagine a sheet of cardboard over the face, | -
| see what I'm saying?




My dRebel has a 1.6x multiplication factor so it's really a 90mm,



6x5 = 30.

1.6 * 50 = 80.

I really miss my FD 100mm f/2.8 from back in the day. That was a
portrait lens.
 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
How To Use a 50mm Lens to Shoot Portrait? narke 35mm Photo Equipment 42 January 26th 05 01:40 AM
Pricing on headshots Doug Photographing People 1 April 5th 04 04:27 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 04:31 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 PhotoBanter.com.
The comments are property of their posters.