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RAW sharpening
Hi, I use Capture One to process my RAW files (adjust white balance, tweak
EV, some curves adjustments and sharpness) then edit the TIFF in Photoshop 7. It's just occurred to me that I am sharpening my images twice - once in C1 (although nothing too severe) then again in PS after all my editing is completed. Should I just leave the sharpening until the end of the process (ie. disable all sharpening in C1 and use Unsharp Mask in PS as my very last editing task)? |
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embee wrote:
Hi, I use Capture One to process my RAW files (adjust white balance, tweak EV, some curves adjustments and sharpness) then edit the TIFF in Photoshop 7. It's just occurred to me that I am sharpening my images twice - once in C1 (although nothing too severe) then again in PS after all my editing is completed. Should I just leave the sharpening until the end of the process (ie. disable all sharpening in C1 and use Unsharp Mask in PS as my very last editing task)? Not only that, but say you end up saving three versions at different sizes. Each one should USM'd at its final size before saving. And the parameters in USM will likely be different for each. Cheers, Alan -- -- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. |
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It seems to be a truism in general that adjustments should be made in small
increments rather than all at once. |
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"Bill Hilton" wrote in message ... From: "embee" Hi, I use Capture One to process my RAW files (adjust white balance, tweak EV, some curves adjustments and sharpness) then edit the TIFF in Photoshop 7. It's just occurred to me that I am sharpening my images twice - once in C1 (although nothing too severe) then again in PS after all my editing is completed. Should I just leave the sharpening until the end of the process (ie. disable all sharpening in C1 and use Unsharp Mask in PS as my very last editing task)? Lot of well-informed people are now sharpening RAW files twice, once with a small amount during or shortly after conversion, a second more agressive time when the file is edited, resized and ready to print. The first small hit restores the sharpness lost to the AA filter ... Canon recommends USM 300% amt, .3 radius, 0 threshold for the first hit, for example ... the C1 default settings are very mild (lower than the Canon recommendation) so you can either use the C1 default or turn it off in the Preferences box and run an action in PS to do the Canon-recommended default. There's a bug in C1 with several cameras, if you disable sharpening in conversion you get a narrow black line about 2 pixels wide on one side of the image, so they recommend leaving it on. This bug was introduced in v 3.5 and is in the current version as well (wasn't in the earlier ones) ... I see it with the 1D Mark II and the 1Ds, for example. The above USM guidelines are for Canon dSLRs, other camera makers may recommend something different and some don't even have an AA filter, which may mean you should skip the first step. Bill I see. I was concerned that I was running a higher risk of introducing sharpening artifacts by using two different programmes (they must use different sharpening algorithms??) However, from your very helpful post I think I shall just carry on doing things in my normal way, although I shall probably reduce the amount of sharpening I do in C1, relying more on the final USM in OS just before I print. Thanks. |
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One of the most surprising aspects of the D70 to me was how little
sharpening is applied at the default settings, let alone RAW/NEF. It is disconcerting because it is actually difficult to evaluate focus on some images when first viewed in Photoshop. I believe it is best to avoid sharpening until you are ready to print. If their are no adjustment sublayers containing image data the most convenient thing is to create a duplicate layer and try different sharpening techniques. |
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One of the most surprising aspects of the D70 to me was how little
sharpening is applied at the default settings, let alone RAW/NEF. It is disconcerting because it is actually difficult to evaluate focus on some images when first viewed in Photoshop. I believe it is best to avoid sharpening until you are ready to print. If their are no adjustment sublayers containing image data the most convenient thing is to create a duplicate layer and try different sharpening techniques. |
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Lot of well-informed people are now sharpening RAW files twice
From: "embee" I was concerned that I was running a higher risk of introducing sharpening artifacts by using two different programmes (they must use different sharpening algorithms??) The key is to just barely touch it up with the first pass so you don't add artifacts, then really sharpen it to the nth degree on the final image. from your very helpful post I think I shall just carry on doing things in my normal way, although I shall probably reduce the amount of sharpening I do in C1, relying more on the final USM in OS just before I print. Yeah, the default value in C1 is very low and pretty safe, it barely sharpens at all ... if you're interested in the theory behind this here are two links, first from one of the really smart Photoshop guys, author of several "Real World Photoshop" books Bruce Fraser (called "A two pass approach to sharpening in Photoshop") ... http://www.creativepro.com/story/fea...l?origin=story .... and the Canon article I mentioned that recommends running an initial USM of 300/0.3/0 is here in pdf format, by Sr. Tech guru Chuck Westfall ... it's over 1 MB so takes a while to download but it's worth it ... the pdf is mainly about how to get the most from the Canon 1D series professional cameras but there's a lot of good general data ... http://www.photoworkshop.com/canon/EOS_Digital.pdf .... the remarks on why you need a small touch of USM on the converted file is on pg 4. What I do is just try it and see if I have problems with artifacts after the second, final at-print-size USM ... when I convert with C1 I use their default (mainly so I won't get the black line but when I convert with Adobe CS RAW I run a quickie action to do the 300%/0.3/0 USM per Westfall's suggestion and I've yet to see any problems further down the line even after resampling the files 250% for large prints, which is where it's most likely to show. If you do see problems late in the flow just back off on the original USM but at least with the Canon's I've used I didn't see a problem. Bill |
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